Xander Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 I just installed a Warren Sevigny .245 serrated front with plain rear on my G17. I borrowed a friend's laser boresighter, and I have no idea how to zero my gun on 25 meters, all I know is I can't do anything on elevation. Any advice or suggestions will be great, TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 I'm not really sure what you're asking us here. Do you want advice on how to bench rest sight-in a gun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razerok1 Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 you cant "zero" a gun with fixed sights if the bullet point of impact is off it may be bacause your front sight is too tall the Sevigny plain rear should be used with a .215 tall front sight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Not necessarily true. I have been running both a G17 and G34 with a WTS rear and .245" front sight for years. Yes, you can zero a gun with fixed sights - you may just have to do some judicious front sight replacement/trimming and/or movement of the rear sight to accomplish it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xander Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 I'm not really sure what you're asking us here. Do you want advice on how to bench rest sight-in a gun? yes sir, exactly, pls. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Okay. This is how I do it. Other people I am sure have different procedures that work for them. It really helps if you have a bench rest setup. It doesn't have to be spendy. I use a bench/table that happens to be there at the indoor range on which I do most of my shooting, and an inexpensive Outers Pistol Perch of my own which is a snap together little plastic pistol rest. Some people use sand bags. Whatever. Also it will help a lot if you have a sight pusher to make adjusting the rear sight for windage easier. Failing that, the time honored brass hammer and punch can serve. The indoor range on which I shoot only goes to 50 feet so that's the distance at which I sight in, not the traditional 25 yards. If you want to go 25 yards, have at it, but I have never noticed a problem when shooting at longer ranges with my 50 foot zero. Put up a target at the distance you have chosen (or the limits of the range have chosen for you). Make it a target you can see at distance, with a very visible center aiming point. I use red-and-white 100 yard rifle sighting-in targets with a 2" white center circle. Get the gun aimed-in at the very center of your target. Make sure it is securely bedded into whatever stabilizing surface you have chosen, whether it be sandbags or some sort of mechanical rest. All the standard stuff, top of the front sight even with the top of the rear sight, equal amounts of light on both sides of the front blade, yada-yada-yada. Take up the slack in the trigger until you hit the "link" resistance point, prep the trigger with almost enough pressure to fire the gun but not quite, verify the sights are perfect, then apply the last little bit of pressure to fire the gun. At this point there will be a real tendency to want to relax your grip pressure on the gun and begin fiddling around with your grip between shots. Don't. Maintain your grip, the same pressure, everything. Align your sights again, prep the trigger, fire the next shot. It is traditional in marksmanship to fire five-shot groups when testing a gun for accuracy at distance, however for sighting-in I don't believe you need to fire that many rounds to get a "group", you do however need to fire enough rounds to see they're all impacting in the same place and not just one round that might have flown off willy-nilly because you mashed the trigger. So fire two or three rounds. If your eyesight is good enough, you can verify where they landed without going downrange, if not head down and check where your group is relative to the center of the target. If it's high, with fixed sights you need a taller front sight. If it's low, you need a shorter front sight. If the group is right of point of aim, move the rear sight to the left. If the group is to left of point of aim, move the rear sight to the right. (Basically, move the rear sight in the direction you want to move the group.) Tape your holes on target. Head back to the bench. Fire a few more rounds. Check the position of your group. Just keep doing all that, adjusting your sights between groups, until you have the gun sighted-in for perfect, dead center point of impact/point of aim. Hope all that helped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xander Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 That's all I need to know, thank you very much DT for taking the time, appreciate it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 You are very welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirLoin Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Do you sight dead-center or 6 o'clock? I've always done it dead-center (I think there's another term for it), but some folks have said 6 o'clock is better so you can actually see the target instead of guesstimating where it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Might gun is set up to hit like this NOT like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane Thomas Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 I go for dead center. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xander Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 I go for dead center. same here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFD43 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Okay. This is how I do it. Other people I am sure have different procedures that work for them. It really helps if you have a bench rest setup. It doesn't have to be spendy. I use a bench/table that happens to be there at the indoor range on which I do most of my shooting, and an inexpensive Outers Pistol Perch of my own which is a snap together little plastic pistol rest. Some people use sand bags. Whatever. Also it will help a lot if you have a sight pusher to make adjusting the rear sight for windage easier. Failing that, the time honored brass hammer and punch can serve. The indoor range on which I shoot only goes to 50 feet so that's the distance at which I sight in, not the traditional 25 yards. If you want to go 25 yards, have at it, but I have never noticed a problem when shooting at longer ranges with my 50 foot zero. Put up a target at the distance you have chosen (or the limits of the range have chosen for you). Make it a target you can see at distance, with a very visible center aiming point. I use red-and-white 100 yard rifle sighting-in targets with a 2" white center circle. Get the gun aimed-in at the very center of your target. Make sure it is securely bedded into whatever stabilizing surface you have chosen, whether it be sandbags or some sort of mechanical rest. All the standard stuff, top of the front sight even with the top of the rear sight, equal amounts of light on both sides of the front blade, yada-yada-yada. Take up the slack in the trigger until you hit the "link" resistance point, prep the trigger with almost enough pressure to fire the gun but not quite, verify the sights are perfect, then apply the last little bit of pressure to fire the gun. At this point there will be a real tendency to want to relax your grip pressure on the gun and begin fiddling around with your grip between shots. Don't. Maintain your grip, the same pressure, everything. Align your sights again, prep the trigger, fire the next shot. It is traditional in marksmanship to fire five-shot groups when testing a gun for accuracy at distance, however for sighting-in I don't believe you need to fire that many rounds to get a "group", you do however need to fire enough rounds to see they're all impacting in the same place and not just one round that might have flown off willy-nilly because you mashed the trigger. So fire two or three rounds. If your eyesight is good enough, you can verify where they landed without going downrange, if not head down and check where your group is relative to the center of the target. If it's high, with fixed sights you need a taller front sight. If it's low, you need a shorter front sight. If the group is right of point of aim, move the rear sight to the left. If the group is to left of point of aim, move the rear sight to the right. (Basically, move the rear sight in the direction you want to move the group.) Tape your holes on target. Head back to the bench. Fire a few more rounds. Check the position of your group. Just keep doing all that, adjusting your sights between groups, until you have the gun sighted-in for perfect, dead center point of impact/point of aim. Hope all that helped. Thanks for the post, but I have a question. Isn't this the opposite (see red text above) of what Dawson Precision is suggesting, or am I missing something ? Shouldn't it be if the impact to the target is high, a shorter front sight is needed, not taller ? Good post by the way .... found it helpful, just clarifying what I see as conflicting info .... I can't seem to post a link yet - sorry So go to the "Dawson Precision" web site, select on left side, "sights front" at take a look at what I'm referring to. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 No...think about it. If your front sight is short, you have to muzzle up the gun to compensate, which makes you shoot high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clint-M Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Great information guys, I'm going to sight in my new 34 when I get a chance but I have an adjustable rear. CM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFD43 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 No...think about it. If your front sight is short, you have to muzzle up the gun to compensate, which makes you shoot high. Yeap your right ... miss read the graphic on the Dawson site - duh .... Also the graphic you provided on your earlier post on sight alignment was the best I've seen offered. very Nice ! And thanks for help'n me "see the light" ... sometimes you can't see the forest because your standing in the trees - ya know ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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