SP01 - Trigger not resetting

[CZinSC]

Twice now at the range I've had an issue with the trigger not resetting on my SP01. Background on the gun, approx 14,000 rounds through it, custom Angus trigger job, competition hammer. After the last time it happened, I changed the trigger bar lifter spring to a new one. One side of the old one was slightly bent causing it to not contact the trigger bar, along with some dirt and grit in the gun, i figured problem was solved. The problem happened again last night. Spring looks ok, seems to be contacting trigger bar on both sides like it should, and there is a little grit in there, but after hearing how some people go months without cleaning, can't imagine that little bit of dirt would cause the problem.

What is happening is this: mag with 10 rounds in it, load, rack slide, manually lower hammer ( practicing USPSA production ). When I draw and go to fire, the trigger doesn't work, it wasn't reset after the lowering of the hammer. The few times its happened, it's always been when I manually lowered the hammer. Don't recall it happening while firing the gun (mid magazine).

What other things should I be looking for? I just spent time, with the slide off, seating all 5 mags, both empty and loaded with dummy rounds, and I could not duplicate the problem. Tried again with slide on, same thing, couldn't duplicate.

Really don't want this happening during a match. Any advice on what else I should be looking for? I'll give it a thorough cleaning tomorrow, but just wanted to make sure there wasn't anything obvious I'm overlooking.

[The Antichrome]

Assuming that your Trigger Return Spring is fresh and you dont have any mis-adjusted travel screws on the trigger...check the front of the trigger bar and the area where it meets the frame for gunk and grit. It only takes a little to keep the trigger bar from going all the way forward. Q-Tips are your friend.

[CZinSC]

Yep, TRS is fairly new, and no travel screws on trigger. But I agree with you on the gunk. I might have to get in there and pull the trigger bar out and give it a really good cleaning to make sure there isn't build up on the part that touches the frame.

Thanks,

[Jeff Matzka]

I'm sure you've probably already thought of this but I'll say it anyway - make sure the trigger is in fact going all the way forward (so that it CAN reset). I've short-stroked my trigger after a Fail-to-fire, and it felt as if it wasn't connected to anything at all. I wasn't letting it travel far enough forward to reset. This did happen during a match. I was having a good stage up 'til that point.

I think you may be on the right track with the de-gunking you mentioned. If nothing else, you'll at least eliminate that as a possible cause.

Good luck.

(Okay I pretty much repeated everything The Antichrome just said above. I should learn to read through these first, eh?)

Edited July 22, 2011 by Jeff Matzka

[CZinSC]

I'm sure you've probably already thought of this but I'll say it anyway - make sure the trigger is in fact going all the way forward (so that it CAN reset). I've short-stroked my trigger after a Fail-to-fire, and it felt as if it wasn't connected to anything at all. I wasn't letting it travel far enough forward to reset. This did happen during a match. I was having a good stage up 'til that point.

I think you may be on the right track with the de-gunking you mentioned. If nothing else, you'll at least eliminate that as a possible cause.

Good luck.

(Okay I pretty much repeated everything The Antichrome just said above. I should learn to read through these first, eh?)

Not at all! I'd rather someone repeat something a different way on something I thought of already which forces me to look at it a different way. I also hadn't thought about not letting the trigger go far enough, but that's because the problem didn't happen while shooting. But, it's something to make sure I watch out for when I lower the hammer. The TRS should take care of that as soon as I let go of the trigger, but its certainly something I will keep in mind.

[burningsquirrels]

yep, +1. sounds like the trigger isn't going all the way forward. so, work your way from there. also, grime can still build up under the trigger bar. also make sure that the screw which retains the bar spring and mag catch isn't backing out. it should have loctite on it.

[1SOW]

yep, +1. sounds like the trigger isn't going all the way forward. so, work your way from there. also, grime can still build up under the trigger bar. also make sure that the screw which retains the bar spring and mag catch isn't backing out. it should have loctite on it.

That slotted screw should "really" be tight- it's staked when new and takes a well fitted screw driver to get it out..

Like all have said: TRS (I had a broken one that only failed to reset once in a while), gunk (I like spray brake cleaner for 'de-gunking')

When it failed to reset this last time, what did you do to get it to reset. Did you use forward pressure on the trigger? Did you recock the hammer?

[CZinSC]

yep, +1. sounds like the trigger isn't going all the way forward. so, work your way from there. also, grime can still build up under the trigger bar. also make sure that the screw which retains the bar spring and mag catch isn't backing out. it should have loctite on it.

That slotted screw should "really" be tight- it's staked when new and takes a well fitted screw driver to get it out..

Like all have said: TRS (I had a broken one that only failed to reset once in a while), gunk (I like spray brake cleaner for 'de-gunking')

When it failed to reset this last time, what did you do to get it to reset. Did you use forward pressure on the trigger? Did you recock the hammer?

Used brake cleaner last night, no issues at the match today. At least issues that I could blame on the gun!

The last time it failed to rest, I did not use forward pressure, just let the trigger out. When it failed, I racked the slide and it corrected itself.

I sprayed a lot of crap out there last night, I'm thinking it had gotten dirty between the trigger bar and the frame. The previous cleaning I had over oiled it, that must have drawn in extra sand and grit.

For now, problem solved. Thanks everyone for the advice.

[CeeZer]

Stop using Brake cleaner, unless you want finish to come off. It's not good for you either (I hope you used gas mask while using it; or, you are 45+ y.o. and don't care how long you live).

Outers Nitro or Hoppes Elite do great job if you soak parts for a quick couple of minutes.

[CZinSC]

I used the chlorine free Brake Kleen. Outdoors, with rubber gloves and safety glasses. Not sure how much "healthier" the green non chlorinate is, but I doubt the very quick exposure to it will cause long term effects ( i know...famous last words ).

If anyone has some proof ( facts, not word of mouth ) that the stuff is that dangerous, I will happily stop using it.

[burningsquirrels]

hold a lighter in front of the brake cleaner and you get an awesome flamethrower. don't try it at home. lmao, so dangerous

[CZinSC]

Is that how you cook rice when you're in a hurry?

[burningsquirrels]

no, it's how i remove eyebrows from people i don't like.

[1SOW]

Stop using Brake cleaner, unless you want finish to come off. It's not good for you either (I hope you used gas mask while using it; or, you are 45+ y.o. and don't care how long you live).

Outers Nitro or Hoppes Elite do great job if you soak parts for a quick couple of minutes.

CeeZeer: Can you show any evidence that non-chlorinated brake cleaner has/will harm the CZ finish?

I and a number of people I shoot with have been using it for years on CZs with no finish harmed. It is "heck" on skate-board tape though. It also won't do fiber optics any good. Like any other solvent, don't use it in a closet with the door closed. Outdoors is best.