Replicate 5.5# connector + 4# striker with stock striker spring?

[sprout]

I have a Vanek classic drop in with a 4# Wolff striker spring and a LS lightened steel striker. It is a great trigger, but there is a bit of creep. I put back in the polished 5.5 connector, which seems to make a really nice trigger: it is lighter than stock (but heavier than pure Vanek), and still crisp. I've only shot 200 rounds, and it seems to be reliable so far, but I'd be more comfortable with the stock striker spring. Is there any way to get the same feel using the stock striker spring (maybe the new dot connector, or a Ghost 4.5 connector)?

Thanks!

Edited July 16, 2011 by sprout

[dirty whiteboy]

I would stay with the lighten spring and use Federal primers. fed primers cured all my light strike problems.

[SDM]

I've put probably 20k rounds through my 17 with the Wolff 4# spring with no light strikes and the majority of it was CCI primers. Gun has a factory striker. I know many have trouble, but it's not a given. I'd put some more rounds through and see if any problems arise, you may be ok with what you have.

[ck1]

I've gotten real close to what you're describing a couple times, but it requires some trial and error, and maybe a couple of extra trigger-bars as you're bound to ruin at least one figuring it out (at least was the case for me), but with a little luck, when you nail it you end up with a really good trigger...

Here's the thread that helped the most: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=72964

...basically you re-shape the trigger-bar's "nose" for less resistance through the pull as the newly profiled "nose" will do what it needs to with less fuss ,and it shortens over-travel and the reset substantially at the same time.

This is surely more in-depth than the ubiquitous $.25 trigger job and the potential to put your pistol out of commission is far greater, if you remove too much material in the wrong spot the striker either won't release, the trigger won't reset, or both, and you'll need a new trigger-bar (in fact, as a tip, when done right a re-shaped trigger-bar to be used with a 5.0 connector will not work properly and release the striker when tried with a 3.5 connector, as the re-shaped "nose" will match-up with the connector's angle closely).

As always, after any trigger mods, load no more than 2 rounds and test it for a little while to make sure you don't go class 3, get doubling, or any other bad behavior... Be careful.

EDIT: FYI, I do not use any power tools when doing this (or really any trigger-work), and if you own a Dremel, I recommend keeping it in it's box or giving it away to a friend if you can't resist it's aura... around firearms they usually end up causing more harm than good.

A small file, some 600 grit, a flat surface, some Flitz, and an old T-shirt or cotton rag (to polish out the Flitz, the Q-tip method kinda stinks IMHO) is all that's ever really required IMO to do any Glock trigger stuff...

TIPS: Before you attempt this, remind yourself to be patient and get it in your head that you'll be taking apart and reassembling your pistol a bunch of times, because you will be, remember that going slow, and taking meaningful time to look at the Glock lower with the slide off, actuating the trigger, paying close attention to how the trigger-bar and connector are interacting as you re-shape it's nose is the secret to success, with the slide off you can disengage the trigger-safety and watch how the trigger-bar "nose" is traveling along the connector, done right it will start to look like the "nose" isn't even touching the connector until right at almost the end of the trigger-bar's travel. Take too much material off the "nose's bump" length-wise (horizontally) and the trigger-bar will slip down before it's gotten to move the the striker-tang rearward or will not have enough of a "bump/curve" left to be pushed down by the connector at the end of it's rearward movement and release the striker properly, also, don't take off so much material at the middle part of the "round of the nose" that the trigger-bar won't have anything there to let it sit against the side of the connector post-striker release and right before trigger-reset (this is why you need to spend a few really looking at the interaction, so you don't remove material in spots where it's necessary).

This isn't an exact science, YMMV, good luck, and may the force be with you...

Edited July 17, 2011 by ck1

[sprout]

Thanks for all the help guys. I don't reload, but I've shot about 200 rounds of Federal Champion without a problem so far. I'll keep the 4# striker in and try some harder primers (Rem, CCI and/or S&B ). I'm also going to order the Ghost 4.5 connector, and try that out (with both striker springs). If that doesn't work I'll buy an extra trigger bar or two, have my wife hide the Dremel, and take a swing at ck1's trigger mod.

Thanks guys!

Edited July 18, 2011 by sprout

[sprout]

Well, I haven't been able to shoot yet, but I did get the Ghost Ranger 4.5 connector. Dry firing the gun, it really is halfway in between the Glock minus connector and the 5.5, both in weight and creep. I like it, but it isn't magic. I may stone the front and polish to see if that slicks things up, and I'll probably keep running it with the lightened striker and the 4# spring to see if it is reliable. With the 4# spring, it is a very nice trigger. Hopefully it will work 99.99% with more than just federal.

Thanks guys.