Calmwater Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 Coworker has a former police 4 inch 66. Some holster wear as this gun was probably carried on duty for years. Seems fairly tight though. No box or any of the junk. The grips are kinda rough. Firing pin is on the hammer, orange front sight and I dont think the barrel is pinned. What would a fair price be for a shooter grade 66? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 If you ever want a different front sight, something other than a stainless ramp with orange insert (yuck!),you might want to pass on the older stainless K-frames altogether. The sights are integral to the barrel and the only practical way to replace the sight is to mill it completely off and install a new base and sight assembly. And suddenly your bargain is no longer much of a bargain! The newer versions have pinned front sights that are readily replaceable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 If the front sight isn't pinned I would wait for the next one to come along. By the time you pay the machine work to change it out you could have bought a newer model. I'm partial to the 66-5 with a frame mounted firing pin and no stinking lock. The dash 5's are usually around the $425 - $450 range. I have found a few for $350 but that a little more rare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anachronism Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 Offer him $300.00 and see if he takes it. If you prefer adventure, offer him $200.00 and he'll likely tell you immediately what he really wants for it. Seriously, I use this tactic often when the seller won't tell me what he wants for an item. I just lowball it see what he comes back with. If you want the gun, paint the front sight flat black, I had to do that to my 686. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 I'm partial to the 66-5 with a frame mounted firing pin and no stinking lock. Yeah, same here. The 66-5s are the best of the series. Made during the wonderful early CNC years at S&W (1998-2001) so they are super smooth inside. And they have the pinned sights that can be easily replaced with the FO front sight that most people seem to prefer. Lately, I've been finding them hard to locate for under $500, though.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calmwater Posted April 13, 2011 Author Share Posted April 13, 2011 I think we are probably in the 300 to 400 ballpark. I probably don't need to buy it right now, I just have had the revolver itch for a while. There are visible stainless pins in the front sight block, but they are solid not roll pins. Does that mean the sight is permanently attached? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granderojo Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 Open the cylinder completely. On the frame where the cylinder and frame part below the barrel and just above where the yoke (the part that's attached to the cylinder) fits into the frame, there will be a model number stamped inot the frame. 66-something unless it's a -0 which is the first run. That's where Gregg K and Mike C are coming up with the -5 number. Both of them are very knowledgable on the subject. The -5 is a good one for both 66s and 625s, IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bones Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 (edited) Calmwater, You are in luck! The pin means the front sight is easily replaced. The pin does not need to be a roll pin, it could be a solid pin. I'll break with the crowd and tell you that I like the older K-frame guns for IDPA SSR and ICORE Classic. I would opt (and have opted several times) to deal with the integral front sight to get the older style yoke screw design. $400 is a fair out-the-door/delivered price in my neighborhood for a 4" 66 in very good condition. If any of you are passing on older ones that are in good shape, please let me know. I'll consider giving them a good home. Craig Edited April 13, 2011 by Bones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 I would opt (and have opted several times) to deal with the integral front sight to get the older style yoke screw design. You know you can make an old-style yoke screw for the newer guns, right? You take one of the new yoke screws and replace the plunger spring with a small pin cut to the proper length. This leaves you with what is effectively a solid screw that won't allow the yoke to push out of the frame when you get a little too aggressive on the reload. Just had an idea--somebody should manufature a one-piece solid yoke screw that could be fit to the new guns! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1911 Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 Craig: What did you have done to deal with the integral front sight? Did you have a gunsmith mill off the front sight and install a Weigand base up front? If so, who did the gunsmith work for you? I've tried a couple gunsmiths in Eastern MA, but I haven't been happy with their work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calmwater Posted April 13, 2011 Author Share Posted April 13, 2011 Took another look. No dash, pinned barrel. Probably not what I am looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bones Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 Mike, Yes, I know that. I walked that path several times a few years ago. It did not work for me. 1911, I had the factory (S&W) mill off the old sight and install a new one. I think the Wiegand base is an excellent option for a competition gun. Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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