S & W 617

[minnesota1]

guys,

Does anyone have or now someone who can reduce the trigger pull of the 10shot 617 down to about 7 lbs.? I really want to practice with it but it will not run 100% unless it is at a little over 9 lbs. This just isn't close to my competition revolvers thus not giving me a close simulation to my match guns. Also, I know Cylinder and Slide makes extended firing pins for center fire revolvers but does anyone know anyone who does them for the 617? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bob

[JohnMc]

I don't think you'll be able to get the trigger that light with a rimfire. I use an extended firing pin in my 610 and I still can only use Federal primers. I think that the .22 ammo is just too hard. Just My .02

[Mover480]

It's not the gun, it's the ammo. General purpose .22 ammo needs a heavy strike to reliably ignite. I gave up trying to get a light pull and have it consistantly go bang. The only way to do it is to use the expensive stuff, i.e. Eley Tenex, Fed Gold Medal Match, Wolf Ultra Match, CCI Pistol Match, etc. BTW, this ammo is very accurate in your 617.

If you want to shoot the cheap stuff, just get the action as smooth as you can and it will be ok even with the heavy pull. Once you get used to it, you won't even notice.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Switching the springs to Wolf reduced power with 15# return help. If the trigger pull is heavier it will help when you get to your competition gun as it will feel even lighter.

Regards,

[slughammer]

How much of the trigger pull is the trigger return spring? Take the hammer and cylinder out and then measure what it takes to compress the trigger return spring.

Most returns springs I try to run at 1/2 of my desired trigger pull, makes a good balance.

It would be interesting if you posted back what the return measures (at least to me).

[bountyhunter]

How much of the trigger pull is the trigger return spring?  Take the hammer and cylinder out and then measure what it takes to compress the trigger return spring. 

Most returns springs I try to run at 1/2 of my desired trigger pull, makes a good balance.

It would be interesting if you posted back what the return measures (at least to me).

The trigger return spring is also known as the rebound slide spring. I can tell you how to get the lightest possible DA pull (done it many times):

1) Polishe the two faces of the rebound slide mirror smooth, and round all sharp edges on it that are contact surfaces. Polish the two frame surfaces that mate with it.

2) Lightly polish the sides of the trigger and hammer.

3) use a very good lube (I like a 50-50 mix of FP-10 and Rig +p to lube all surfaces EXCEPT the sides of the hammer. Those only get a drop of FP-10).

Assemble gun (trigger should be VERY smooth now).

1) Take out and shoot. Firing DA only, back the strain screw out until you get a misfire then turn it back in about 1/4 turn or so. Mark it or measure the total distance out from "bottomed' so you can set it there later.

2) Either install a lighter rebound slide spring or clip coils off the stock one and check trigger return with the mainspring set at the "backed out" point (this is a snip and check procedure where you have to assemble and disassemble). Stop shortening the RB spring when you get the "return feel" that seems right for you.

3) reassemble and use blue loctite to make sure the strain screw stays at the set point.

FYI: I have found the Wolf ribbed springs will give about 1/2 to 1 pound less trigger pull weight for the same ignition force, so I recommend using them.

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

How much of the trigger pull is the trigger return spring?  Take the hammer and cylinder out and then measure what it takes to compress the trigger return spring. 

Most returns springs I try to run at 1/2 of my desired trigger pull, makes a good balance.

It would be interesting if you posted back what the return measures (at least to me).

Trigger return spring at 15# is what I find necessary for a good trigger recovery. It keeps it from being sluggish. As far as reducing trigger pull, lighter springs may make a lighter pull, but if the trigger does not return fast what good is a light pull??

There is a lot more needed to reduce trigger pull than springs and playing with the hammer.

You need to polish the surfaces of the cylinder stop, the bolt, the barrel of the yoke, the face of the yoke needs to be square and polished, the locking bolt needs to be polished, the rod needs to be true and on and on. There is a lot to it. It ain't rocket science, but it's close

Regards,

[bountyhunter]

As far as reducing trigger pull, lighter springs may make a lighter pull, but if the trigger does not return fast what good is a light pull??

The benefit of a lighter pull is that it reduces the average shooter's tendency to rotate the muzzle of the gun off line as the trigger is pulled. Obviously, the RB spring has to be sufficient for a proper return, but when fired at a quick rate, trigger and hammer "return inertia" actually kick the trigger back pretty quickly. Aside from Mr Mickulek, there are very few of us whose performance is limted by the rebound spring, but a vast multitude of us whose scores improve by the benefit of a lighter DA pull.

[bountyhunter]

There is a lot more needed to reduce trigger pull than springs and playing with the hammer.

You need to polish the surfaces of the cylinder stop, the bolt, the barrel of the yoke, the face of the yoke needs to be square and polished, the locking bolt needs to be polished, the rod needs to be true and on and on. There is a lot to it. It ain't rocket science, but it's close

Regards,

Not trying to offend any gunsmiths, but I have done triggers on many SW's and if the post I wrote above is followed, you will get a trigger which is at least 95% as smooth and light as any pro job (and better than the new PC guns) and it is not "rocket science".

As for:

"the face of the yoke needs to be square and polished,"

I would caution against anyone doing any "polishing" on the end of the yoke (crane) tube as that is a critical fit which sets the cylinder position and adjusts end shake.

As for:

"You need to polish the surfaces of the cylinder stop, the bolt, the barrel of the yoke, the face of the yoke needs to be square and polished, the locking bolt needs to be polished"

I am puzzled because in a SW wheelgun, the "cylinder stop", the "bolt", and the "locking bolt" are all tems I have seen used to describe the same part: the bolt directly under the cylinder which pops up and locks the cylinder into it's rest position as the trigger is pulled. It has virtually NO effect on trigger pull weight or feel unless there is something seriously wrong with it and it is hanging up on the frame slot.

[slughammer]

Trigger return spring at 15# is what I find necessary for a good trigger recovery.  It keeps it from being sluggish.  As far as reducing trigger pull, lighter springs may make a lighter pull, but if the trigger does not return fast what good is a light pull??

I bought a Wolf kit once, put it in and ended up with a worse trigger pull than I had. It's still layin around here somewhere.

I don't believe what it would say on a spring bag; heat treat being what it is, they are all individuals. 1/2 the desired pull by measuring trigger return force is what I find gives me good trigger recovery. (I figured this out by measuring several.)

I do very little polishing, just a couple of spots. Then I do the trigger return. And finish up with the hammer spring.

Some early 80's guns are turds and require mucho work.

K & L competition guns I run at 7bl. The N frame moon clip guns I run at 7 1/2 - 8. If sombody wants to get down in the 5-6 range they'll need to put more time into it.

Regards

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Not trying to offend any gunsmiths, but I have done triggers on many SW's and if the post I wrote above is followed, you will get a trigger which is at least 95% as smooth and light as any pro job (and better than the new PC guns) and it is not "rocket science".

A quick "trigger job" is fine, I prefer to tune the entire action and have done them since 1980.

As for:

"the face of the yoke needs to be square and polished,"

I would caution against anyone doing any "polishing" on the end of the yoke (crane) tube as that is a critical fit which sets the cylinder position and adjusts end shake.

If you can polish these surfaces, you should be able to repair the end shake. It is all part of the job.

As for:

"You need to polish the surfaces of the cylinder stop, the bolt, the barrel of the yoke, the face of the yoke needs to be square and polished, the locking bolt needs to be polished"

I am puzzled because in a SW wheelgun, the "cylinder stop", the "bolt", and the "locking bolt" are all tems I have seen used to describe the same part:  the bolt directly under the cylinder which pops up and locks the cylinder into it's rest position as the trigger is pulled.  It has virtually NO effect on trigger pull weight or feel unless there is something seriously wrong with it and it is hanging up on the frame slot.

Although you have seen them described as the same part, they are three different things that because of their bearing surfaces and drag, they affect trigger pull. What I have written can be taken or left as is. I have learned from experience and attending schools at S&W. I do not actively repair firearms anymore except my own.

People on the internet refer to many things in different ways. The terms I use for parts are what they are called at the factory where a Crane is either a bird or a toilet

Try this for parts terminology it helps keep everyone on the same page:

Note: All information expressed by me is worth exactly what it cost you

Regards.

[InTheBlack]

What's the right way to get the locking bolt out so you can polish it?

What's the right method & grit to polish the barrel of the yoke? Spin it on a buffing wheel?