Steel Epoxy on a handgun . . . Yeah, I did it.

[Whoops!]

Ok, I have an open M&P. Obviously not the best or most used platform so I've ended up doing quite a bit on it myself. In talking to the gunsmiths in the area and having them do minor jobs, I understand that they are mostly incompetent. For example, I wanted a trigger job. I was quoted 2 to 3 lbs on my M&P Pro. The guy had the gun for 2 months longer than he estimated and gave the gun back to me with what at least feels like a stock trigger pull. I also inquired about tightening slide to frame fit and he said it couldn't be done on an M&P. Interesting . . . If I had been a gun smith I would have at least offered to find someone who could mill me an M&P slide blank that I would then fit myself, I thought. I didn't say for a certain price or anything. Needless to say, I got to thinking about how I could approach this issue myself.

I wondered if anyone had tried a steel epoxy before in an attempt to tighten up the slide to frame fit on a similar gun. All I found was a topic saying how bad of an idea it would be and that you would have to worry about the epoxy comming off and jamming up the gun.

So, I bought some Quiksteel from Wal-Mart and went to work...

First, I used it to eliminate (100%) upper to lower receiver wobble in my Sig P556 by forming it to the back of the upper receiver. I've since fired ~498 rounds through that and there has been no degradation to any of the epoxy. The fit is still perfect and a million times better than stock. My only complaint being it's harder to remove the rear pin because of how tight the upper receiver is to the lower. I usually have to use a plastic pen to help me push it out now, but can push it back in easily with my thumb. The excellent fitment is worth it in my honest opinion.

Happy with that job, I moved to my M&P. I applied the Quiksteel to the polymer frame underneath each of the slide rails where abrasion from the slide rubbing would be the least. Then, after several failed attempts at sliding the slide to mold it for a good fit, I realised that I was in too big a hurry. I built up the epoxy again and carefully slid the slide on and off one time. Wiping off the excess epoxy from the very rear of the slide, I left the frame alone for the epoxy to dry. Coming back the next day, I oiled everything and slid the slide on. Instead of the sloppy fitment I was used to on my M&P Pro, the slide was fit to the frame very well. I was able to eliminate all perceived side-to-side play and am left with only a very small amount of up-down play. The slide still moves smoothly in action.

In dealing with steel epoxy, I have found that after it is cured it will break off in large chunks (not small pieces) if exposed to too much pressure. In 150 rounds of factory ammo and about 130 rounds of 9.3 gns of HS6 under 115 grain projectiles, no large chunks have yet broken off and the slide-to-frame fit is still very good. I have also experienced no malfunctions using an 11 pound spring for the factory stuff and a 15 pound spring for the heavy duty HS6 load.

With a good slide-to-frame fit finally achieved, and cheaply so with a small enough hassle that I'd be willing to do it again if epoxy starts removing itself after, say, 500 rounds, I'm ready to find someone who will make me a frame-mounted red-dot solution. I know somebody can do it, come on people.

Edited October 9, 2010 by Whoops!

[Merlin Orr]

If it works or if it doesn't.... still admire you for not being afraid to try something and seeing the results for yourself....

[Joe4d]

So what exactly is frame to slide mounted fit supposed to accomplish ? People ooh and ahh over it but it really doesnt have anything to do with anything. Sight to barrel fit is what will affect acuracy,

[JxMAN25]

you got guts for trying something like that. Im glad it worked out for you.

[Whoops!]

Slide to frame fit is theoretically essential for a frame-mounted red dot. Other theoretical, but less essential and more debatable benefits are consistency in small-parts wear, more effective recoil control with compensated handguns (there is no up-down slide slop that cushions the effect of the compensated barrel's downforce), and improved consistency in shot follow-up.

[Rob72]

Slide to frame fit is theoretically essential for a frame-mounted red dot. Other theoretical, but less essential and more debatable benefits are consistency in small-parts wear, more effective recoil control with compensated handguns (there is no up-down slide slop that cushions the effect of the compensated barrel's downforce), and improved consistency in shot follow-up.

QuickSteel is okay; Devcon is soooo much better.My linkhttp://www.itw-devcon.co.uk/index.php?/devcon_mro/epoxy_maintenance_repair_and_overhaul_systems/devcon_titanium_putty/

I had a "smith" break 3 taps in a Beretta 1201 receiver, a few years ago. His solution was to move my sight forward by 1/2", and color his gouges with an aluminum black pen. I popped out the fragments, and filled everything with Devcon, bought a drill press, & did the job myself. Rock solid & Duracoat gives color match.

[Whoops!]

Thanks, I'm planning on picking some of that up now. So far, my quiksteel has done very well and I bet that would be perfect.

[TOPO]

Slide to frame fit has nothing to do with accuracy? What do you think the barrel locks into when in battery, not the frame. You can have the best barrel lock up to the slide, but if you have excessive slop between slide to frame you will not have repeatable accuracy.

1911 smiths weld up the frame rails then precision mill them down all the time, nothing new.

[Whoops!]

Actually, slide to frame fit does have nothing to do with accuracy or precision if the sighting device is on the slide and the sights are realigned after each shot. Think about it.

Also, 1911 frames are a bit different from polymer frame rails.

Edited October 17, 2010 by Whoops!