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Rob72

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    Robert Cox

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  1. Indeed! He did a multi-cal conversion on my SP101 cylinder a couple of years ago, and the work is fantastic!
  2. Tinnitis is the bugger-bear, not hearing loss. My stepdad's was keeping him from sleeping (brown water navy, Vietnam- pintle-mount .50 caliber & various .308, etc..). Mine is a low grade sinnngggg, that I hope does not worsen with age. That MZLMAX, with a BFD looks attractive. https://www.primaryarms.com/indian-creek-design-.5in-blast-forward-muzzle-device-w-thread-protector
  3. This^^. As your grip evolves, as noted, this may not fully resolve the issue, but it is a HUGE improvement.
  4. Melonite is basically the EPA approved, US version of the Tenifer finish. It makes the surface extremely hard. I had forgotten that- it would be muuuch easier to mill an aftermarket barrel. The tungesten weight is there to ensure that the bolt closes fully. If you can acquire an extra weight, you could weigh it on a postal scale, then start with 2 5/8" holes drilled through(carbide bit), and start seeing how much weight comes off. Shoot a box or two, and see what happens. I'd do less than you think you want, because the lighter mass block will slam fore and aft more quickly, and you have to start playing with spring weights, if you start short-stroking.
  5. You got me pondering... This is the barrel I have in my 10/22 TD : https://www.pikearms.com/catalog/product/04770 Pike's does 10/22 stuff, pretty exclusively, but I'd give them a call and see if either they would take a look at your barrel or know someone who would; or, see if you could have a Green Mountain barrel ( http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/9mm-blank-9mm-raw-blank-17-x-1-1-10/ ) cut to your desired specs. I know you can loose weight in the bolt, which is the main mass affecting recoil. I loooovve spending someone else's money!
  6. I would not have thought the front to be that much of an issue, but... Shrouding the barrel would (most likely) be best achieved by having a smith turn down the barrel to a nominal OD, creating a shoulder, just forward of the rear sight assembly, then placing an aluminum or CF sleeve on it, and using the muzzle threads to lock it down with a corresponding muzzle device/lock nut. Probably the most reasonable, cost-wise. I would be hesitant to suggest a "pencil" profile on a barrel that's already been fluted, as I ass-u-me that the engineers have already settled on a durable but lighter profile, but that's well beyond my tinkering level. Rugers are known for being meaty, after all. Edit to add: I say "pencil" in the context of a thinned, untensioned barrel.
  7. Your easiest, cheapest (custom) solution is to find a linear comp, in the caliber you want, with an OD of 3/4", and thread the outside. If you don't want the comp, you could bore it out with a hand drill & a vise. https://www.amazon.com/Special-Thread-Round-Speed-Steel/dp/B007PL33P6 I believe you can rent the large die handle from Autozone or O'Reilly's for free (with a refundable cc deposit). The Indian Creek Blast Forwarding Device is another option, depending on what you're wanting to do. ~$70 and will work with most any 1" or less OD brake.
  8. Rob72

    Unusual malfunction.

    I'm not a competitor, just a non-professional smith. 1) OEM spring weight, or are you running heavier/lighter weights? When were they last replaced? 2) Mag catch, as mentioned. Check it for spring function, and is it intact. 3) How "hot" are your loads? 4) The bit of mag I can see looks well-worn. All worn about the same? How many rounds? Mag lips (metal) flared any? 5) Have you successfully used this barrel before? Do you see bullet nose-marks on the ramp (you shouldn't)? Short version: The first suspect is mag height. Are the rounds elevated enough to reliably enter the chamber(mag catch & barrel)? Second is short-stroking. The slide is moving too fast/too slow, and not catching the round properly(loads & springs). Third is round positioning. If your mag lips are bent in or flared, the round will nose into the ramp and kick up or if the nose is too high, the nose will hit the top of the chamber. This can also happen if the ramp is a bit long, and catches the round early. If your chamber is tight or not polished enough, this will lock you up.
  9. Someone with that unit would be the best source, but: I would take the spring off, and measure the OAL, wire diameter (0.0XXX), and the number of coils per inch, then call Wolff Gunsprings and tell them you want to step up in resistance a bit. They'll usually have good recommendations. My suspicion is that an AK recoil spring might be trimmed to fit.
  10. I've only got ~700 rounds through my build, but the rail surface area is larger/longer than OEM, and I like it more. No issues so far.
  11. Have you considered seeking counselling for this enabling behavior of yours...?
  12. ^^This!! I've been holding out, hoping that Ruger will offer their PCC in stainless, but will probably pick one up this year, regardless. In a practical context, there aren't many situations where i need to reach out much beyond 100 yards. From a 16" barrel, a 9mm round is picking up a few FPS, the HPs will have more consistent expansion, and (obviously) range and accuracy are significantly improved as compared to a handgun.
  13. At this time, LPA. Pricey, but well above anyone else's offering. Miniature Machine Corp. (MMC) back in the '90s had one I liked more, but they are no longer in production. LPA Rear You'll have to purchase a separate front band or ramp to use with this. LPA Front and rear from Europe. Call them to check the barrel diameter for the banded front. Honestly, you can stick a set of Mossberg 590A1 GRs on, and they'll work just fine, and be a whole bunch cheaper, but the LPAs are a heavier build, and are very well finished.
  14. If the website is accurate, the "finish" is the result of the heat treating process, not something applied to the carrier. Easy fix- you could rub it with a green 3M pad(~300 grit), with a dab of gun oil for lube, and produce a nice brushed finish, or go further, taking the finish down to the gray 3M pad (~600 grit), then using metal polish to produce a nice bright-polish. I guess you could have a nitride finish applied, which should produce the gold coloration. Any nitride finisher should be able to tell you if that's true, how much, etc..
  15. I've done Brownell's molycoat, Dura, Mark Lee's Express Blue. and Oxpho-blue. I have to say that's pretty much in order of preference. The first molycoat I did was sold off, and last I saw it, still looked new (9 years after coating). Dura is more finiky, for me, if room dried. Usually, I'll stick in the oven at 100-125* over night, and leave it at room temp for a day before applying lube, and have had excellent success with that. For me, the Express Blue is the only way to blue, if I have to do it. It's a semi-hot blue process, gives an incredibly rich finish, and blends evenly, if things are properly degreased. (Express Blue #1 ) Oxpho is, "ok". When the stars align, it gives a decent deep blue (but nothing like I've gotten with Express Blue, first pass), and gives a fair bit of trouble with blending, as noted.
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