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Getting into reloading


Ryan C

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I'm using dillion 40S&W/10mm dies and I'm sure they are taper crimped. The bullets are I'm using are these ones to be exact...

http://www.missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=79&category=5&secondary=11&keywords=

My opinion is your OAL/COL is a bit long, it should measure at 1.125.and your taper crimp should be atleast at .420 from my Hornady manual; Tightgroup starting load is 2.1 , max is 4.8 and for clays univ starting load is 3.8 and max is 5.3! Good luck!

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I'm using dillion 40S&W/10mm dies and I'm sure they are taper crimped. The bullets are I'm using are these ones to be exact...

http://www.missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=79&category=5&secondary=11&keywords=

My opinion is your OAL/COL is a bit long, it should measure at 1.125.and your taper crimp should be atleast at .420 from my Hornady manual; Tightgroup starting load is 2.1 , max is 4.8 and for clays univ starting load is 3.8 and max is 5.3! Good luck!

I know that is what the hornady manual says, it's one of the books I referenced 'after' I loaded the rounds. (mistake #1). The second mistake was not chamber checking after a few rounds. The first few I loaded all seemed good on the calipers and the powder checks throughout the loading seemed good. The third mistake was loading 50 rounds. I'm thinking I'll just pull them all and start over. I don't know what is causing the binding since OAL doesn't seem to be OAL/COL seems to vary for rounds that both do and don't chamber. I'll just have to recheck all my dies and start fresh. I've got plenty of other ammo to shoot in the mean time. Can you remove the decapping pin in dillon pistol dies so I can resize them but reuse the primers?

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I'm using dillion 40S&W/10mm dies and I'm sure they are taper crimped. The bullets are I'm using are these ones to be exact...

http://www.missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=79&category=5&secondary=11&keywords=

My opinion is your OAL/COL is a bit long, it should measure at 1.125.and your taper crimp should be atleast at .420 from my Hornady manual; Tightgroup starting load is 2.1 , max is 4.8 and for clays univ starting load is 3.8 and max is 5.3! Good luck!

I know that is what the hornady manual says, it's one of the books I referenced 'after' I loaded the rounds. (mistake #1). The second mistake was not chamber checking after a few rounds. The first few I loaded all seemed good on the calipers and the powder checks throughout the loading seemed good. The third mistake was loading 50 rounds. I'm thinking I'll just pull them all and start over. I don't know what is causing the binding since OAL doesn't seem to be OAL/COL seems to vary for rounds that both do and don't chamber. I'll just have to recheck all my dies and start fresh. I've got plenty of other ammo to shoot in the mean time. Can you remove the decapping pin in dillon pistol dies so I can resize them but reuse the primers?

I do think its your crimp or your resizing! Ya you can remove it by taking off your "C" clip and using a pair of pliers! But I recommend you just deprime the brass with the live primers.. Just be careful and make sure you got safety glasses on! You shouldn't have a problem depriming em! Take it slow and remember this is trial and error period for you! See what works for you and your weapon!

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the 'sticking' you are describing is onethatthe OAL is too long and your particular bullet profile(the ojive) is into the lands and grooves of the barrel, as grump has said, only work with a full shell plate to get more uniform OAL, and some might even go so far as to culltheir brass tothe same headstamp and # of firings onthe cases, shorten up the OAL and you should be fine, ifthe powder charge is on the 'hot' side as you surmise, you need to back that off accordingly as well...

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I'm using dillion 40S&W/10mm dies and I'm sure they are taper crimped. The bullets are I'm using are these ones to be exact...

http://www.missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=79&category=5&secondary=11&keywords=

My opinion is your OAL/COL is a bit long, it should measure at 1.125.and your taper crimp should be atleast at .420 from my Hornady manual; Tightgroup starting load is 2.1 , max is 4.8 and for clays univ starting load is 3.8 and max is 5.3! Good luck!

I know that is what the hornady manual says, it's one of the books I referenced 'after' I loaded the rounds. (mistake #1). The second mistake was not chamber checking after a few rounds. The first few I loaded all seemed good on the calipers and the powder checks throughout the loading seemed good. The third mistake was loading 50 rounds. I'm thinking I'll just pull them all and start over. I don't know what is causing the binding since OAL doesn't seem to be OAL/COL seems to vary for rounds that both do and don't chamber. I'll just have to recheck all my dies and start fresh. I've got plenty of other ammo to shoot in the mean time. Can you remove the decapping pin in dillon pistol dies so I can resize them but reuse the primers?

Yes, you can remove the decapping pin to resize primed brass. First, before you go through all that trouble, have you tried firing them yet? If it isn't the OAL/COL, then it will be a crimp issue. Too much crimp and they will get stuck on the headspace shoulder in the barrel, too little and they won't chamber at all.

Looking at your bullets from the link, they look identical to the Space Coast bullets I load (same everything). Have you noticed any wax build up around the case mouth? Maybe there is some wax build up in the barrel? This may be why some are sticking and others not. The wax is the blue ring around the bullet. The wax could be causing the bullet to stick at the case mouth.

If you continue to use those, after loading about 1,000 rounds, you'll see your OAL start to shrink again. This is caused by wax and lead buildup in the seating die. Don't let it go too long without cleaning, or you'll have to get a punch and hammer to drive out the pin that holds the inner piece of the seating die. My guess is with the wax build up, mainly cause I've had this happen to me as well.

Edited by GrumpyOne
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I guess I'll just go and do and test fire and see how it goes. I'll adjust my dies and start making changes on my next batch once this is done. Definately need more Q/A checks early on!

On a side note, I had finished the bench last week, but my lighting sucked since I only had one incandescent light bulb in my work area. Took that light out and wired in two dual bulb T8 fluorescent lights. Added an extra outlet to the basement, and then wired my bench with two outlets which are run via extension cord. Gives me the ability to move the bench around without being tied to the wall, I'm happy with it so far. I'll bet that I'm going to wish that I built the bench even bigger but this works for now and I don't have a ton of space since I live in a townhouse.

Workbench Pictures

Edited by Ryan C
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I guess I'll just go and do and test fire and see how it goes. I'll adjust my dies and start making changes on my next batch once this is done. Definately need more Q/A checks early on!

On a side note, I had finished the bench last week, but my lighting sucked since I only had one incandescent light bulb in my work area. Took that light out and wired in two dual bulb T8 fluorescent lights. Added an extra outlet to the basement, and then wired my bench with two outlets which are run via extension cord. Gives me the ability to move the bench around without being tied to the wall, I'm happy with it so far. I'll bet that I'm going to wish that I built the bench even bigger but this works for now and I don't have a ton of space since I live in a townhouse.

Workbench Pictures

Ryan, I posted about your bench over in the other topic about benches...I think I know what the issue is with your rounds....It's bench related.....

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5485&view=findpost&p=1272796

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