Is this an issue?

[Stradawhovious]

I'm developing some interesting wear patterns on my hammer, and where it meets the frame. It looks like I'm not getting as uniform a strike on the firing pin as I could be. Is this something I should be concerned about, or is it to be expected? I'm thinking either as simple as a poorly made part or something much worse.

Also, are the MIM parts as cheap as they seem? The reading I've done says that they are just as strong and uniform as the forged parts, but I have some serious doubts about this.

If my doubts are correct, if I were to have the hammer bobbed on this one, would I be better off buying a new hammer and having it fit instead of the MIM parts?

Here are some photos of the suspect wear marks. The spot on the hammer doesn't show up all that well, but it's there, prominent, and the same shape as the one on the frame.

Edited May 29, 2010 by Stradawhovious

[inkedshooter]

My 625JM does the same thing.

[Stradawhovious]

My 625JM does the same thing.

Only on the one side like that? It seems unusual.

[Bubber]

That is where there is a high spot is on your hammer. You could buff it out but if it is working...Shoot it till it quits...Carmoney may have some better insight on the detail. later rdd

[Stradawhovious]

That is where there is a high spot is on your hammer. You could buff it out but if it is working...Shoot it till it quits...Carmoney may have some better insight on the detail. later rdd

Thanks! I figured it was just a high spot, that makes more sense than anything else, but are the parts of sufficient quality to use for modification (such as carmonizing)? They just seem cheap.

It's a little disappointing for a gun that brings as much money as it does.

Don't get me wrong, I love the gun..... Just surprised that my 642 seems to have come with better fit parts than my 625.

[Tom E]

It's a non-issue. The shiney spots are the surfaces that contact to stop the hammers forward motion. It doesn't get any worse or cause a problem, you can just see that they make contact. The MIM parts are just fine and for a lightened hammer you might as well use an MIM hammer which usually will drop in. The only fitting may be stoning a small bevel on the bottom front corner of the DA sear for trigger clearance. The MIM hammers are lighter than the forged ones and you want light. If your original hammer has a pinned DA sear it's forged.

Edited May 29, 2010 by Tom E

[Stradawhovious]

They are MIM parts guaranteed. Good to know they aren't as cheap as they look, they remind me of Pot Metal. The hammer and trigger of my other 625 (forged) just seem to be better material.

[Tom E]

I welded (TIG) two left over (MIM) spur sections together. They welded without bubbling and turning to shit. Surprisingly good stuff.

Edited May 29, 2010 by Tom E

[Carmoney]

Yeah, I don't think it's anything to worry about.

The MIM parts are just fine. Both of the 625s I use in USPSA competition have MIM guts. The older one has a fair number of years on it now, with quite a few rounds down the pipe, and it's still doing great.