JWard79 Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 (edited) Not sure if anyone has any experience with the Glockworx trigger group, but I've been having issues with the trigger reseting. I placed the trigger group into my Glock and it ran with no issues initially. I later acquired a skeletonozied striker from the same company, and have since had failure to fires. What I believe is happening is the trigger bar is not reseting on the striker, and when this occurs the primer shows a light strike on the primer without the normal Glock signature. I swapped the skeletonized pin back to factory and still have the same issue. My only guess now is that the pre & over-travel screws may be causing the issue. Love how the trigger feels, but the failure to fires result in frustration & poor stage times. If anyone can provide any insight I'd appreciate it. Edited April 18, 2010 by JWard79 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GET A GUN Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Not sure if anyone has any experience with the Glockworx trigger group, but I've been having issues with the trigger reseting. I placed the trigger group into my Glock and it ran with no issues initially. I later acquired a skeletonozied striker from the same company, and have since had failure to fires. What I believe is happening is the trigger bar is not reseting on the striker, and when this occurs the primer shows a light strike on the primer without the normal Glock signature. I swapped the skeletonized pin back to factory and still have the same issue. My only guess now is that the pre & over-travel screws may be causing the issue. Love how the trigger feels, but the failure to fires result in frustration & poor stage times. If anyone can provide any insight I'd appreciate it. Did you also replace the striker spring and what primers are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braxton1 Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 (edited) Just add a little overtravel and see if the problem goes away. If you eliminate all of the overtravel, the cruciform sear plate never actually gets out of the way of the lower lug of the firing pin. That lug drags over the top of the sear plate, slowing its forward movement. We see that in practically all of the designs that eliminate overtravel. You're really talking "thousandths of an inch" here. You can still have a nice trigger and get your reliability back. Edited April 18, 2010 by Braxton1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWard79 Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 (edited) I will try adjusting the overtravel to correct the issue. Hopefully the problem is as simple as that. When the problem occurs though, it seams as if the stricker is not reseting after the shot. The failure results in a round in the chamber with the trigger to the rear. Will more than likely back off on the pre & overtravel, and work them back in while checking reliability. Edited April 20, 2010 by JWard79 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rack&roll Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 I have the Glockworx "Fulcrum" trigger on my G-34 open gun. The supposed factory red locktighted, over & pre-travel adjustment screws came loose the first time I shot it. I subsequently removed the screws, and I am happy with the trigger pull. I feel a lot more confident in the reliability without the aforementioned screws. (I also use the GW skeletonized striker) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GForceLizard Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 Try different connectors. I have the IDPA SSP legal version of the Glockworx. Mine will not work with the version 1 GW race connector. It works with the Glock 3.5#, Glock 5.5# and Lone Wolf connectors. I like mine with the Lone Wolf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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