M&P Trigger Service - What to do?

[kgunz11]

update.

Received both of our pros from Dan today, and the triggers are exceptional. They fell and break 1911 like.

Nice job Dan and thanks.

How do they feel like a 1911 and not defeat the safeties? I can make one feel like a 1911, about 2.5 lb break and if the trigger moves at all the gun fires, but it defeats all of the internal safeties. As far as I know, there is no way to take all the pretravel out and this not happen.

[Dan Burwell]

How do they feel like a 1911 and not defeat the safeties? I can make one feel like a 1911, about 2.5 lb break and if the trigger moves at all the gun fires, but it defeats all of the internal safeties. As far as I know, there is no way to take all the pretravel out and this not happen.

I have this special can of secret voodoo shake I put on the sears.

Move the break forward and the trigger bar back to where where the safety lifts as soon as you get on the trigger. there will be very little prep. Remember the radius you put on the safety determines how quickly it gets out of the way

Bobby if you want to know just ask, I don't believe in hush hush secret crap.

[kgunz11]

Thanks Dan, I appreciate that.

So are you setting them so that when the trigger shoe safety clears it engages the sear? I know how to do that by manipulating the trigger bow loop. I guess I was asking because I've been playing with the 9 Open thing too and you can really make the trigger very nice and it have almost no discernible pretravel, it just doesn't have much of a safety so I'm using the external thumb safety on the frame. Makes it very much like a "2011" at that point.

[Dan Burwell]

start with an original sear or SSS sear then cut down the engagemant, leave the front of the sear alone. radius the plunger very little so it clears quickly, I weld on the sear housing to remove to boat load of over travel I just created. If you want to still remove travel, weld on the front of the trigger bar up in the front so it hold the trigger against the plunger (but not lifting it)depending on your radius and your weld you may or may not need to slightly recut the trigger shoe safety so it still functions. You now have the clsoest thing to a single action trigger you can get on a production gun while maintaining the safties.

[kgunz11]

start with an original sear or SSS sear then cut down the engagemant, leave the front of the sear alone. radius the plunger very little so it clears quickly, I weld on the sear housing to remove to boat load of over travel I just created. If you want to still remove travel, weld on the front of the trigger bar up in the front so it hold the trigger against the plunger (but not lifting it)depending on your radius and your weld you may or may not need to slightly recut the trigger shoe safety so it still functions. You now have the clsoest thing to a single action trigger you can get on a production gun while maintaining the safties.

I was just looking at the front of the trigger bar where it engages the slide stop arm. A touch of weld there to build it up, file until correct. A little touch of a spot weld on the ejection port side of the sear block to act as an OT stop. I guess you could D/T the sear block and put a small screw in it to have it adjustable. You ARE cutting edge Dan!

[Dan Burwell]

I was just looking at the front of the trigger bar where it engages the slide stop arm. A touch of weld there to build it up, file until correct. A little touch of a spot weld on the ejection port side of the sear block to act as an OT stop. I guess you could D/T the sear block and put a small screw in it to have it adjustable. You ARE cutting edge Dan!

I don't get paid the big buck for nothin

I know some use set screw for both areas, I prefer weld, for me it is faster and I don't have to worry about anything coming loose, on down the road. Plus I have this way tested over 100,000 rounds in one gun so I know it holds.

Like I said if you have a quation ask, I can hook a fellow gun guy up.

[kgunz11]

I was just looking at the front of the trigger bar where it engages the slide stop arm. A touch of weld there to build it up, file until correct. A little touch of a spot weld on the ejection port side of the sear block to act as an OT stop. I guess you could D/T the sear block and put a small screw in it to have it adjustable. You ARE cutting edge Dan!

I don't get paid the big buck for nothin

I know some use set screw for both areas, I prefer weld, for me it is faster and I don't have to worry about anything coming loose, on down the road. Plus I have this way tested over 100,000 rounds in one gun so I know it holds.

Like I said if you have a quation ask, I can hook a fellow gun guy up.

Likewise Dan, if there is ever anything I can do...

[fastarget]

Dan,

you had to go tell Bobby how you set up our pros now he will be playing with his M&P instead of finishing my 6er

Those triggers are fiiiiiiine...

[ThomasJ2772]

Update:

I received my .40 compact M&P back from Dan on Saturday and couldn't be happier with the results. I purchased the Standard Trigger Job and asked him to not lower the trigger pull weight all the way down to 3.5 pounds (this is my concealed carry gun). My biggest original complaint with the trigger was the reset. It used to take several mushy clicks and a great distance of return trigger travel to reach the reset. Now, the reset is positive and much much shorter. Additionally, the pre-travel is now smooth and consistent, and the over-travel has been eliminated. I also shipped a new set of Heinie Ledge Straight Eight night sights with the gun and asked him to install them.

I have only positive thoughts about Dan's work. The trigger exceeds my expectations and all of the work seems done with great care. The gun is exceedingly more accurate than I am.

I would highly recommend Dan's services. I'm certain that I'll be sending him additional guns in the future.