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Stefano

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Posts posted by Stefano

  1. On a side note. Often a start like this will eat up some time. That means the hit factor will be lower...making the points even more important.

    On top of this, when you have some time doing "other stuff" between when the beep does off and when you actually start shooting, you get a feeling of urgency. This can make the shooter hurry and try. Speed seems more important than normal, when the opposite is true. Since the hit factor is reduced, points are more important.

    I just wanted to point out that pit fall. Ideally, none of that should enter into the thinking. The shooter should take each shoot in the moment.

    Thanks Flex,

    this is one of the best tips I've ever received ! ;)

    By the way: I shoot in Production, and in my division this is much more important ....

  2. getting mass moving...shifting weight...

    Depends on the position.

    I like to get my inside leg (arm) to the outside. Then, at the beep...swing them over. It gets the mass moving in the proper direction. Kind of like snapping the head around on a turn and draw.

    Yes, totally agree ...

    But ALL the times I've had to start from a bed I was obliged to take my legs/arms not as I wanted to have ... :rolleyes:

    Usually legs parallel, flat on the bed, and so my arms ...

  3. I lay on my back, as close to the edge as possible. On the buzzer, I roll my body off the bed get my feet on the ground and take off running. There's no sitting up action, just get your feet to the dirt as soon as possible.

    Yeah, it's my same goal (and technique) but .... how you push yourself (rolling) off the bed ?

    I mean the movement of your legs and your arms ....

    I ask myself if there's an efficient way to save time.

  4. Well, about me it's not a matter of "rhythm" :)

    All you want to do is to score two alphas on each target, at the best of YOUR possibility.

    And it depends not only to your skill-level but also to the distance, the position of the targets, etc. etc.

    So, the best thing you can do is "to see what YOU need to see", or - in other words - to have "visual patience".

    About this there's a GREAT post by Brian Enos here:

    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52977

  5. Ok Stefano,

    Here is Edoardo in Production. He won :rolleyes:

    edoardo.htm

    (He beat Adam by 5.57%)

    By the way, there seems to some problem with the top production score for stage 13!

    Enjoy,

    Chuck

    Thank you so much Chuck !!!

    I'll forward to Edoardo this good information .... :D

    Edo (also called "Bubu" by the friends ...) is perhaps our best Top GM (without taking apart all the others very good Italian Top Shooters ...).

    If you want to see Bubu "in action", please go to our Club's website, to the scrolling-link "VIDEO":

    http://www.uboldoshooting.it/

    Thank you so much again !! ;)

  6. Thanks guys !

    I am speaking about match results of the 2007 European Handgun Championship (and unfortunately there isn't a data-backup of this match: perhaps it's a too big file ...).

    I am just curious to know what it could be the Production Overall, moving in this division a friend of my (who is Edoardo Buticchi, perhaps our best italian GM ...) from 6 place in the Open overall.

    The match results are avaiable here:

    http://www.xtremeshooting.com.br/mss/match...atchnum=1#cat17

    but I'm not sure to be able of doing that trick ... :unsure:

  7. Sometimes, reading the overall results of a big match I ask myself what would have happened if a comperitor had shot the match in another division (each competitor with his own times & points).

    The idea is how to make a comparison between two shooters who has shot the match in two different divisions.

    I know that it's quite impossible but .... is there a reasonable way to compare the results (in the same match) of two different Top GMs in two different divisions ??

    Let's make an example:

    - the match is a big one, and the the top 10 in each division are the best skilled international top shooters

    - competitor "A" is ... among the top 10 in Production Division

    - competitor "B" is ... among the top 10 in Open Division

    - is not possible to trick the match-backup with WinMSS (the only thing avaiable is the overall match result).

    Any suggestion is welcome !

  8. At the beginning of this (just closed) shooting season I've owned for a while a SP-01, jus to make some tests (note: my favourite match-partner is a Tanfoglio Stock II ….).

    After a serious trial-period of several thousands of bullets fired with it, I’ve understood that CZ doesn't like heavy load like 155 or 145 grs, and – on the contrary – never had any problems with the same gun using 124 and 115 grs. Bullets.

    The real issue is (IMHO) the bullet profile, and in particular 147/155 grs bullet’s profile.

    The second problem: CZ doesn't like round nose.

    CZ is very sensitive with bullet profile, because the free bore in the barel is very short. So the bullet is touching the rifling when you use a heavy weight or a round profile bullet.

    If you want to continue to use heavy weight bullet you need to increase the free bore inside the barel to avoid trouble.

    But ... is it worth ??

    My advice: shoot 124 grs. bullets ! ;)

  9. If you aren't happy with your progress so far than your only option is to work harder. At the height of my dry fire obsession I would dry fire until my hands literally bled. I'm not suggesting you do this, but if you want to be a great shooter this is the mentality you need to have.

    Until you reach GM, dry fire should be 80 to 90% of your practice routine.

    Totally agree with you Jake !

    That' why I am only an "A" class shooter: my hands are only calloused (and not bleeding ...) :rolleyes:

    Anyway I'll be so happy when I'll be able to get my "M" class !

    I am 45 old: not sure of being able to become GM ..... :unsure:

  10. I've started dryfiring since I've started doing practical shooting and thanks to this great training tools I was encouraged with greats results at the beginning (I passed from "D" dyrectly to "B" class).

    Basic training can be done virtually everywhere, just standing still in front of a wall; using sized targets you can simulate different distances, and different arrays of "papers/steels".

    Of course, you can achieve the best results working with a little bit of space (garage, basement, etc ...) where you can help yourself adding shooting boxes, fault lines, barricades, ports, and the biggest difference consists in MOVEMENTS (exiting, entering shooting positions).

    Pharaoh Bender has a simple but GREAT setup to work with: thanks to this (and his steadiness in training) he has GREAT RESULTS ! ;)

    Just after Steve Anderson he's my myth: now I am a production "A" class shooter, and next year I hope to get my "M" class working as he did ! :rolleyes:

  11. I have all those DvDs from Saul ...

    - 3 GM is great: a lot of fun to watch and a lot of good inputs to catch;

    - master class 1 & 2 are a little bit boring, but still useful to learn good technique

    The fact is that they are two different things: difficult to say that the firse in better from the other two !

    If you can effort the expence... buy all of them !

  12. Eheheheh ... sorry guys, but my bad english sometimes sounds a little bit funny .... :)

    Being here I hope to achieve progresses not only in shooting but also in writing in another language ... :rolleyes:

    The reason why I've started this topic is because I've noticed quite a difference in my draw-times between dry-fire & live fire.

    I know that this is normal, but I suppose that (in my case) this difference is achieved by my (low) reaction times ...

    In dry fire I can perform a draw in 1,00 sec. and - if I push myself - even in 0,90/0,80

    In live fire my usual time is 1,15/1,20, but even if I push myself I can't go under 1,00 (and the most probably is 1,05 ...).

    I've also noticed that when I'm shooting a match my draw-time is probably higher, due to the fact that I don't want drop points (I shoot in PD ...).

    So, I am beginning to think that my "problem" is not with the draw itself, but - probably - with my reaction-time at the buzzer ....

    But after reading all yours posts .... now I am thinking that the best solution is .... working again with draw-practice in LIVE fire ! :D:D:D

    I'm wrong ?

  13. Slap your timer. Seriously! Set it on random start, and on the start signal, see how fast you can slap, tap, flick your timer.

    Right but ... it will never be as quick as triggering something .....

    Anyway thanks ! It seems a good solution ... :):):)

    The nominal times may be slowerer, but you'd still be able to determine a par, and therefore improvement.

    OK, RIGHT ! !

    Let's slapping ... :D:D:D

    Fortunately I have TWO timers: just in case of "over-slapping" ... :rolleyes:

    Thanks to you both guys !

  14. Again about reaction-time and all the drills we can do to improve it ...

    I've just read on the USPSA website (homepage/additional content/other info/grand master tips) Matt Burkett's drill about reaction time.

    This drill is great, and I know it well, but it is doable only at the range, in live-fire.

    Does anybody have any ideas on "how-to-do" a good reaction-time drill at home, in dry-fire (and withou a gun in your hands) ?

    An "old" idea is that one of the tennis-ball, but you must have anybody (the wife ?? :ph34r: ) who's helping you, dropping the tennis-ball from his/her hands when you try to catch it before it touch down.

    It would be great to find something that we can do by ourselves, with the help of the timer (I think it's important to listen the sound of the buzzer, jus to feel a more realistic situation ...).

    Any ideas ?

    Thanks

    Stefano

  15. Other important thing to understand:

    attending a course with a Top GM it's not a "finish" but only a "starting point".

    In a few days you have a LOT of good input, but if you don't work hard on it in the months after ... well, it's only time & money waisted !

    On the other side, we all know that working without a good tecnique it's only bad training, and instead of working in the bad way it's bett not working at all !

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