Stefano
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Posts posted by Stefano
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Stefano,
Are you allowed to do this sort of mod in IPSC?
Just curious,
Chuck
PS: To repeat Stuart's question: disconnector or trigger bar?
PPS: Stuart, I am thinking that some shim stock and super glue experiments are in order
A set screw may be a possibility vice welding?About me this kind of "alterations" aren't allowed in IPSC.
So - as Dalmas says - you really are exposed to the risk of being bumped in OD.
Anyway, I've asked only to satisfy my "tecnical curiosity" about the differencies between Tanfo & CZ triggers ..
Of course, I also know that sometimes ... "curiosity kills the cat ..."
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Stefano - I haven't actually done this, but have thought about it and then decided it probably wasn't worth the effort unless you are having issues reaching the trigger in DA. On my SP01's, there is about 3/16" of take-up at the tip of the trigger in DA and about twice that amount in SA. You'll only be able to remove the smaller of the two amounts and still have everything work. So, at best, you'll be able to remove almost all of the DA take-up (moving the starting point of the DA pull 3/16" closer) but you'll still have about 3/16" of take-up in SA. Unless you really slap the trigger in SA, the take-up shouldn't be an issue if you just release the trigger past the reset point between shots.
If you do try this, it looks like it would be better to add material to the inside of the trigger bar because there is more or less a single point of contact there (easy to build up by spot welding a little weld bead). The corresponding contact on the disconnector is a larger area and if this area ends up uneven, it may bind or catch during the slide's cycle which probably won't be good.
Thanks again DP:
for sure you're the "CZ Authority" ...
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DP..
so the material or shim is applied to the vertical face of the disconnector or trigger bar?? so the effect is that the disconnector travels to the same point, but the trigger bar and trigger only go to a point that is further back than originally??
I think I understand what you are saying..
any guess on how much material needs to be added??
EERW,
I think it would be good (as DS says) just a spot welding: then a little of polishing/finishing and try.
Most probably it's easied to add material, and the remove it little-by-little, instead of add and then add again ...
This is the tecnique I've heard about, used by an italian (good) pistolmith with good knowledge of CZs.
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Stefano,
CZ85 Combat trigger has after-travel adjustment screw.
It's OFM option part and therefore ok for IPSC Production also.
Esa,
I mean (as clarified by DP) the take-up of the trigger, not the over-travel !
Anyway thanks for your interest in my question.
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Looking from above, if you remove the ejector cage, you'll see that the disconnector (attached to the hammer) has a leg that slips through the trigger bar. The contact between the disconnector leg and the trigger bar determines how far forward the trigger goes with the hammer in a given position (i.e. hammer down or cocked). I think you are talking about the take-up in DA and SA - which is the travel before the engagement points of the trigger bar contact the disconnector or the sear.
You may be able to shim the contact between the disconnector leg and the trigger bar (e.g. by adding a spot weld bead) to reduce the take-up. However, you'll need to be sure there is enough excess (i.e. leave a bit of take-up) to allow the trigger to reset for both DA and SA. If you then do trigger work or change hammers or sears, you may have to re-adjust the amount of shim.
Thank you so much DP:
that's exactly what I was looking for !!!
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Hi Guys,
being in "off-season" this is the perfect-moment for doing experimentations and then ...
Last sunday I've extensively tested a new Shadow, and having a large experience with Tanfoglio models (T95F, Stock Custom, Stock II ...) the very-first difference I've noticed on the CZ is the very long trigger-pull-travel ….
NOTE: I'm not talking about travel AFTER the break, but just getting to the break, starting in DA.
Now I ask myself: how is it possible to reduce it ??
I've looked all around in the web, serching for a good tip to solve this “problem” (even if I know this is almost typical for CZ models…) but I've found nothing.
I remenber I've heard somewhere (but I'm not sure about this: I can be wrong ..…) that a possible solution it could be shimming a particular point on the disconnector, or on the ejector cage: anyway - I repeat -–it's only a rumour”that I've heard on the ranges... …
The only tip I've found that sounds similar, is on CZForum:
“....You may bend the disconnect bar slightly forward to adjust where the trigger "breaks" during the pull. It helps if you bevel the end of the disconnect where the trigger bar contacts against it and begins it's downward travel, or you may end up with more stacking than you have. Once you've got it where you want, I'd suggest adding a trigger stop as well, or the serrations on the trigger will make your finger pay once the gun has fired, after 150 rounds or so my (already calloused) finger was bleeding from slamming back into the grip time and time again. The stop ended the torture. Hope this helps…....”
What do you think about ?
Does anybody have an idea about “how to deal” with CZ's trigger travel ?
Thanks in advance
Stefano
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Recently at the WSXV in Bali, I've used an interesting solution implemented by Eric Grauffel on the CR-Speed rigs.
It works fine both in Production and Standard division, and (of course) it is in compliance with the IPSC Rulebook ....
Eric has mounted a magnet under the mag-pouch in 1st.position on your belt, so the magazine remains behind the hipbone and it's totally legal for PD & SD.,
Also, you don't have any reasons to move (or remove) it when not-necessary, and this also is in compliance with the Rulebook ....
This is a very-new item and it isn't yet on ERic's website:
for further infos ask directly to Eric ...
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Brian, Flex (and you all guys),
thanks for the infos: now I have something to work on !
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Found this recently resurrected thread:
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...tience&st=0
and try this:
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...l=dot+drill+101
Pat,
thanks so much !!
It's a LOT interesting ....
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Stefano,
I have such a dryfire drill. In fact, I think this is the most vital aspect of shooting to work on for iron sighted shooters.
I'm sure I've posted it. I'll try to find it.
Brian has posted a drill that is even more basic. His targets are closer together. I am thinking that some distance between the targets...at first...helps a shooter get a good start. So, I'd suggest starting with something like my drill and then graduation to Brian's drill later.
(I'll try to find links to the drills.)
Flex,
didn't you found nothing for me ?
Sorry, I dont' want to be unpolite: it's only because I care a LOT about this ....
Thanks
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Thanks guys,
I'll take in evidence the tips of you both !
I was thinking that a very powerful tool for increasing visual patience and the type 3 vision (shifting focus from the target to the front sight) it could be founding a specific dryfire drill ....
But the only one that I can imagine at the moment is spraying on the wall some differend scaled target, and making casual transitions from one target to another paying attention to the correct sequence of focus:
target, front sight - target, front sight - target, front sight - target, front sight ........
Any other idea ?
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Guys, cant' wait to see Bob "at work" in Bali ....
I've serched a lot on the web but I can't find any video of him:
can anybody post a link , or share a youtube video ?
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Well, usually I like going "in deep" of the problem till I have solved it, and I think that this time I'm very near to the solution....
In these last days I've thinked about it again and again, and my conclusion is that when I drop points during a match is because I suffer a lack of VISUAL PATIENCE !!
I've carefully re-read Brian's book at the chapter where he defines the different types of visual focus, and the conclusion is that (unconsciously) I probably use vision type 2 (Throught the sights) where I should have a vision type 3 (shifting focus).
To those targets at mid-range distance I give less respect than they need and my focus remain on the target (type 2) instead of on the front sight (type 3).
Of course now I want to train adeguately on this "automatic switching" from target to front-sight:
do you have any good drill to suggest ?
Thanks
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Guys, ... WOW !!!
surfing on the Forum I've found what it could probably be the solution to my problem:
http://www.brianenos.com/pages/words.html#speed
It's probably a real matter of "control/abandon" ....
What do you think ?
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How to increase precision (in EVERY situation)
That is easy aim smaller.
Much easier to say than to do I realize but you must focus on putting the bullet through the exact spot on the target you want to. If you are hitting a lot of deltas you are likely shooting at the target not at the center of the A. If you are really shooting at the center of the A and hitting Deltas it is time to work on trigger control.
I had been told this more than a few times before it finally clicked, before the timer goes off make it your true desire to hit the center of the A on each target.
Yeah, considering that in the last match (10 stages, almost 200 rounds) I've shot TEN Ds (most of them on easy targets...) for sure my issue is that too often I lose my "aiming-focus" and I shot generically at the brown, not at the A-zone ....
Every time I am driving to the shooting range I repeat in my mind: ".. front sight, front sight, front sight ...." but often during the match I discover that I lose my aiming-focus ....
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Guys, thanks for your tips.
Do you have to suggest any other specific drill to increase "visual focus" ?
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You have to get the proper mindset.
It's not about fast or slow. That is a speed focus. Lose it.
It is about vision. "Turn up" your vision. See more.
Reduced times on stages will come from being efficient, not from "going faster".
Yes, probably this is indeed "the" point ....
For what I have understood, even if I haven't a particular focus about speed, my tendency is to go "too-much-freely" without giving to every target the needed respect.
It's something like if my subconscious mind brings too much control over my conscious mind: even if we heard that we must shoot "subconsciously" I think that this isn't always good: one day GG Grauffel (Eric's Dad) has sayed to me:
"... Stefano, you must shoot with your head ! Not with your finger !! ...
I shoot Production, and I know the importance of shooting very good points, but at the moment I am shooting too many deltas and I whant defenetely to improve my points. ...
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Well, my question could been understood as a silly one.
The first answer you can think is:
".. go a little bit slower, call EVERY single shot, don't loose NEVER you front sight ...".
Yes, ... this is easy in theory, but not so during a match, expecially when you are shooting "pushing yourself" a little bit, just to understand if you are ready to gain your next-level ...
I hope you have understood what I'm trying to say: guys, sorry but my english is not so good ....
Well, in other words my problem is:
" ... how to maintain a good precision when you have increased speed ...".
Of course during training I am working hard only on this point, but I was thinking that probably I need to work with some particular drills, something different from those I am used to work on.
The first "solution" I've have found at the moment is (simply) to increase the difficulty of my targets during training:
more no/shoot targets, half-papers, sized-down plates (I use not steel but paper-plates ...) and more IPSC classic-targets at great distances.
But I feel that most probably I could do something different for having the better results that I'm looking for ...
Guys, do you have some good drills to suggest to me ??
Thanks in advance.
Stefano
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This is easily adjusted by repositioning the indexer block, stock#16671, slightly. This piece is bolted to the left side of the machine frame where the shaft comes out. It is held on by two bolts. The upper bolt hole is slotted, allowing you to tip the block to advance or retard the final position of the shellplate.
It helps if you wrap a bungee cord around the handle to hold it in the "seating a primer position". loosen the two mounting bolts; to make the shellplate rotate further, move the top of the block to the rear. To reduce the movement of the shellplate, move the top of the block towards the edge of your bench. Once it is aligned, tighten both bolts.
Sorry, the indexer block # is 16671 or 16776 ??
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I would like to share your experiences about bullets's rebound:
shooting steels and/or toward a rock-backstop what's more dangerous: plated bullets or FMJ ones ??
Usually people thinks that lead (or copper-plated) bullets are much more safe because they are less subjected to rebounds, buy from my own experience I begin to think exactly the opposite ...
Shooting towards the same backstop, I've experienced A LOT of rebounds with copper-plated bullets, and a very fiew (or none) with full metal jacketed bullets ...
NOTE: I am shooting 9mm minor, and the differences I've verified are between:
A - 124grs RN copper-plated bullet (power factor 130) - FASTER
B - 147grs RN FMJ bullet (power factor 130) - SLOWER
Is it possible that the much more frequent rebounds I've noticed (A-type ammo) are due to the faster speed of the bullet ?
Even if the power factor is quite the same of the B-type ammo ??
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Welcome to the deep end, Stefano
Eheheheh .... thanks Dave !
The "deep end" is indeed the best way to describe the hard work I have still to do ...
This is probably the main challenge that I love in our sport:
this never-ending trying of doing better and better .... and it's NEVER enought !!
Guys, thanks to you all for your nice words: I appreciate !!
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Guys, at last I've done it !
From today there's another Master in Production Division, and it's ME !!!
I am so happy that I can't wait to say this to you all.
Thank you SO MUCH from the deepest of my heart to those of you in this fantastic Forum who has helped me with tips and suggestions: you're the best friends in the world !!
Stefano
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Recently I've seen a nice photo of Chris Tilley in action, with a pair of Radar-frame Oakley: so I think this confirm that they fits good with earmuffs ...
By the way: anybody knows if they comes (on request) with graduated lenses ??
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Me too I've seen the FS article about the 40 gizmo .....
Does anybody knows the e-mail address and/or the website link of the producer ?
I would like to ask if they have also a 9mm. version.
At the moment I haven't near my my FS copy ....
Thanks
A set screw may be a possibility vice welding?
US Official Team Manager at WSXV in Bali ....
in Stage Comments or Questions
Posted
During the World Shoot I've noticed day-by-day the impressive and outstanding work that has done the US Team Manager, following all the US Teams during the whole day, from the early morning till the late evening ....
Plase, can anybody tell me who's that guy and (possibly) what's his e-mail address ?
I would like to congrat personally ...