Paradiddle

Believe it or not, I have my 500ES on my carry permit. And I have shot a USPSA match with it. That is the greatest thing I have ever seen!

I realize this topic comes up all the time, but after reading every thread I could find I still lack some clarity on the 625. First - I live in California so pre-lock Smiths are VERY rare and expensive and they must come from inside our state (unless you want to go through some hoops). I want to start getting serious about competition again and I want to shoot revolver. Most of the competitions in my local area are USPSA/IPSC type of stuff (run and gun) as an FYI. I currently compete with a CZ75 that is set up like the Shadow. I also have shot single stack with my 1911 a couple of times and reload 9mm, 38, and 45 so ammo is not a factor for me. I had a 4" M19 K frame but don't reload it all that well (even with comp iii) and want to try shooting the 625. I have small/medium sized hands, crappy vision (wear glasses), and am not a big fan of getting beat up by my guns. The 1911 is very manageable recoil wise as an FYI just as a benchmark. All of this leads up to my questions: I have an handle on a used 5" 625 either a -3 or -4 (seller hasn't replied back to me yet on that). It's a pre-lock no MIM, hardly used so here in California it is considered “rare”. It has an "action job" and has had the holes lightly chamfered. Not sure who the smith was that did the work. Stock otherwise. The seller is a great guy so I trust his description and he says it shoots great and will light off all factory ammo. My second option is a nearly new 625JM that just popped up locally. 100% stock. The price difference between the 2 is $350. At this time I want a light trigger, but I'm not willing to hand seat primers and not sure I want to completely "bob" the hammer. Everything I've read said that unless I'm dead set on shooting IPDA (which I'm not, and I could always run the K or another pistol) I should get the 5" (even though the -3 or -4 has the firing pin on the hammer - correct?) Is this more of a sight radius/target acquisition thing, or is recoil a substantial factor between the two? If I purchased the JM Alan Tanaka would do the work required to get it to shoot "right". What are the thoughts of the revo experts here? Spend the $350 on the 5” and maybe need to spend more on some work by Tanaka if the action isn’t light enough, or get the JM and put the $350 into the action job? Thanks, Jeff

Is the 5" that much better/desireable/easier to shoot fast then the 4"? I'm in California and the 5" are hens teeth, but I can get a 4" JM at the local shop. Curious as to the general opinion. I have found a 5" used, but it is not cheap. If it's "the way to go" for shooting ICOR and USPSA then I will pony up. Thanks, Jeff

It seems like all the Revo .45 ACP guys shoot 230 grain. I've been shooting 200 grain in my 1911 and making major with 4.4 of clays. It is soft (got the load from someone here) Any reason you guys don't shoot a lighter bullet? Or is the recoil impulse out of a revolver that much different from a 1911? I have a K frame, but not a 625 yet so it's hard to compare. Thanks, Jeff

Per the S&W book by Lupica the 19 has a "thicker top strap" then a "normal K frame". I thought that is what Jordan spec'd when he helped S&W with the Model 19. Either way - they point and shoot like nobodys business. And yes you are not supposed to run light 357 mags out of them - when I shoot 357 (which is rare) I shoot 158 grain.Jeff

I've read elsewhere that the Model 15 is fine for +P loads. I don't think pushing a 158 grain slug 800-850FPS should be considered all that hot based on the reloading tables I've seen. That should yield 126-130 PF. Am I correct in my thinking? Jeff

IPSC type of stuff. I love the K and don't particularly grip the N well so t,he gun is a great size. Right now I shoot a CZ75 when I compete.

I have a very nice model 19 with a 4" barrel. I don't shoot it much because it is clean, older, and the are hard to get in California. I want to start shooting revolver in the local club shoots for fun. I found a clean, less collectible model 15 for a good price. No reason I shouldn't buy that, do a trigger and action job and chamfer the holes and keep the 19 in the safe right? Darn near the same gun. Thanks.

And another. Best bang for the buck right now. In your guys opinions is the Mtac worth the extra $100 over the Tac30?

I think just piece of mind. I do stress that the relatively inexpensive Simmons is going to crap out on me. It was recommended by several guys where I shoot as a very good starter scope. With some "extra money" on hand I thought I would upgrade. Maybe I'm just pissing in the wind.

I have a Simmons 1.5 x 6 diamond scope on my 3gun AR. Works great, but I've got some mad money and would like to upgrade. What advice do you guys have in the $350-$500 range? Thanks, Jeff

I would call PMC's legal department. A double charge in factory ammo is a serious safety issue. They should be more then willing to buy you a new gun - they could be paying your wife/family your life insurance had this gone terribly wrong. Lawyer up if they give you any crap - no reason you should have to come out of pocket for their issue. I have a feeling they will take care of you - much cheaper to fix your gun then deal with lawyers.

Hmmm - one for each.... My 9mm comp gun is a CZ 75 SA converted to DA. So that is my current 9mm reference point. The Commander is the same weight but .25" shorter. The Government is 5 oz heavier and only .25" longer then the CZ. Decisions, decisions...

I have an opportunity to purchase either a Commander or a Government in 9mm. Both are Colts series 70. They are both in the same condition and are factory stock. For you guys who shoot 9mm 1911s which one do you prefer. I will do some work on it (triggers, sights, beavertail, magwell, etc.) and compete with it a little. My 45 1911 is a 5" as a reference. Thanks for your thoughts. Jeff

Can this sight be "buried" like a Bomar/Bomar copy?

What do you guys think? Who makes the "best" or your favorite Bomar replacement sight? Ed Brown, STI, Champion, etc?

Thanks guys - looks like it's set up correctly.

I followed the instructions and watched the video while doing this. I have one question. When I hold the trigger down and "reset" the hammer to the cocked position the disconnector tab on the trigger rubs the actual nose of the disconnector a little. I can easily reset it by hand and I assume the bolt will have more force then my hand, but I haven't test fired it. Everything else is setup fine and the disconnector seems to "release" the trigger at the end of the trigger reset (when you let off the trigger). It ONLY rubs if I hold the trigger (as if you held it back after shooting). My questions is - is that little bit of run okay or should I carefully take a little more material off the nose of the disconnector? If I press and release the trigger the hammer does not rub. Thanks - hope that was clear.

Contact forum member GentlemanJim. He owns Firebird and knows a thing or two about rifles and 3-gun. Thanks

Thanks for the replies. It seems that none of the big manufacturers make a 3 gun ready upper at an "affordable" price. I was learly of building one only because of reliability - is that a non issue if I have a reputable local AR guy put it together? I've assembled the lower parts many times and understand the "lego" approach, but I don't want issues with the gas system. Jeff

Looking for a good upper $800 or less for 3gun. From what I've read 18" makes sense with a rifle gas system, no sights and a smooth forend. The Rock River Arms Varmint A4 18" seems to fit the bill perfectly. http://www.rockriverarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=270 Thoughts on other brands I should check out? For reliability's sake I think I'd like to buy a built upper as apposed to having one built/build my own. I want it to run all the time. Thanks for your thoughts. Jeff

So is the concensus is that while 21" is probably "optimal" 24" is fine? I'm going to pick up a Mossberg 930 and they sell one with a 24" barrel which would save me considerable cash versus having one cut down and re-threaded for chokes. Thanks, Jeff

I'm going to get a semi. I've been using my pump and I'd like to "upgrade" or perhaps downgrade depending on your opinion. I chose not to afford a Benelli - yes I've shot them and I know they just run, but I'm not willing to spend that much. I just don't shoot enough 3 gun to warrant it. So - I've heard some great things from local guys here in California about the Mossberg 930 and I've read here that the FN is very nice as well. On the Mossberg I will be buying a "longer" standard 930 "turkey" gun, cutting it down and putting a mag extension on it. The FN SLP Mark I meets my requirements. What are your thoughts? Thanks

If you're going to shoot your 1911 in Single Stack the minimum bore size for major is .40 so you can't shoot .38 Super Major with it. Best bet would really be to work on a handload that's right around 170pf for that .45 and just practice. Besides, .38 Super Major in a 5" 1911 is a pretty unpleasant combination for most folks. Thanks - that is what I needed to know. Jeff

So is there any reason to shoot it now? I'm considering getting an upper for my Colt 1911 to "convert" it from .45 to 38 super. I shoot minor production now with a CZ75 9mm, but have wanted to try my hand with my 1911. I can shoot the .45, I'm just a LOT slower at this point and thought maybe 38 super would be a way to utilize the platform and pick some speed back up and still make major. I don't run a race gun - it's a regular old 1911 with some of the key mods (trigger, beavertail, magwell, etc.) It's either that or practice with the .45 which is probably what I should do. Thanks for your thoughts. Jeff