Intel6
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Posts posted by Intel6
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It really isn't remembering to load your mags, it is to not put fired mags back into your holders. I learned this same lesson years ago and now I never put any mag back in my holders after a stage. I do my ULSC and stick the one I took out of the gun on a magnet on my belt and hold the others in my hands until I am scored and then get back to my stuff and clean and re load them.
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They look like they are the same as Wilson pads. If you look at the newer CMC mags they look like they may make them for Baer because of the round holes and the same looking base pads.
Know anyone with a Wilson mag? If you can verify the pads are the same you can get the extended Wilson pads. I got some to extend out some 47D's so they seat better with my Ice magwell on my single stack.
Neal in AZ
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powder coat.
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I took a prescription bottle and put in a wad of paper towel and then poured in some glass cleaner to soak the paper towel (keeps from spilling it at the range, if it tips over the paper towel will hold it in) with a bit of extra but not sloshing around. Put that and a small ziplock (or another pill bottle) with q tips in it and toss it in your range bag. When it needs it (before it gets too bad) take a Qtip and stick it in the cleaner, clean lens and use the dry end to dry off the excess. Easy to do during a match and it never lets the gunk build up.
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With the Arredondo large glock mag extensions you get 20 in the mag so you are equal with most limited mags.
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Wal Mart sells a 2x pack of 357 batteries for use in their lighted fishing lures/bobbers for just under $2, find them in the fishing stuff. I have been using them (stacking) for years in my open gun and never had any issues. I have had others tell me about having problems but I never had? The nice thing is they are so cheap I never felt guilty about finding I left the sight on or putting in a fresh pair "just because."
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I used the 3M kit and it worked well. My lenses were not too bad so I didn't start with the most aggressive grit paper. I started with the next level down and it came out well.
Neal in AZ
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I had a lengthy reply to this and the page froze up and I lost it. I hate to be the negative poster on this but this is a non-starter if you are looking to shoot this in a pistol. The problem you run into is the length of the projectile and how far you have to seat it into the case which them cuts down on your case capacity which affects your velocities. The way to get heavier bullets with enough case capacity is to get more of the mass of the bullet outside the case which frees up the case capacity. That is why you see all those hunting style cast bullets follow the LBT WFN style (almost full wadcutter) because they are putting the max weight outside the case but stay within the length restriction. To have a pointed more aerodynamic nose you have to have the weight to the back of the bullet which means you are taking up powder capacity.
Another thing to look at is take the distance of the round (1.260" LOA) and minus the length of the case (.992") and you end up with .268" to work with. Imagine trying to design a bullet where the pointed nose section starts and ends with a plastic tip and cram it into .268" of length. It is going to be a short stubby pointed bullet which defeats the whole point. Also since you want a 200+ gr. bullet you are going to have a small amount of weight outside the case and the majority of it inside the case which will kill you powder capacity for using slower powders and you will not be able to push it at any decent speed.
I have gone through all this because I make my own jacketed 10mm bullets and discovered this real quickly when I made up a 240 JHP. Looks great but takes up too much room so I would only be able to push it at a weak velocity, even in my 6" 10mm.
Now, if we are talking about the 10mm in a revolver then you can seat the bullet out to a longer LOA and have the powder capacity you need for velocity. I have successfully loaded and shot heavier bullet's out of my S&W 610 10mm revolver that I would never be able to do in one of my 10mm autos.
Neal in AZ
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I had Matt do some work on a 6" .40 slide for a limited build and was extremely pleased with his work and customer service.
Neal in AZ
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Attached is a 2 page article on the CED chronograph by Greg Lent the "Chronoman"
In It he shows a chrono box and at the bottom there are plans and dimensions for it.
Not sure if this is the same thing RGS is talking about?
Neal in AZ
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If you go the website it says that is a G24 not a 17L. At least you get an idea of what it would look like.
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go to castboolits.com and look in the coating section, tons of info in there about powder coating (what you are looking to do) and about getting the same coating that Bayou, SNS, Gateway and lots of others are using to coat bullets.
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Curious also? I have had my 650 since 1995 and have never had an issue with that ring?
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I had problems also searching yesterday. I was looking for something I had searched for previously and found so something is wrong.
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Or the non groove has more surface area rubbing on the barrel on the way out?
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The AR rim is not the same as any other so it would need to be a specific shellplate. They make them for the 550 and 650, not sure about the 1050?
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Funny, I was just shooting with your buddy (also and old Army buddy) a week ago Sunday. He saw I was the RSO and decided to come out with his new 5" 629 and break it in. I let him try out some of my competition stuff, he was giggling when he shot my open gun.
He has been bitten hard by the reloading bug, he is having too much fun. Tough call about the equipment but I think he may be the one looking at picking up a Dillon and then you can get your stuff back.
Neal in AZ
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I have a Storm Lake in my 17L and a KKM in my G24 along with one for my G22, .40 S&W for my G20 and a 10mm KKM in my 6" G20.
As you can see I do like the KKM's but the Storm Lake has been working out well for me. Since the price of most other barrels are close to the KKM I just go ahead and get the KKM as I know they are good.
Neal in AZ
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There are lots of "standard" loads for shooting cast lead bullets in rifles and those could be applied to the plated bullets.
The reference for this is the Article by C.E. Harris called "cast Bullet Loads for Military Rifles" His "standard" load is 16 grains of Alliant 2400 and he has found it works well in lots of different rifle loads mainly because it is bulky enough to fill up the cases well and it is position insensitive. I shoot lots of cast lead/gas checked bullets in my military surplus rifles and I use this load a lot as it is a reduced load and I can shoot them all day. I have looked at the plated 150 gr bullets and have been thinking of trying them as a plinker load to shoot steel plates with when I don't have any cast bullets made up to load.
I will try and attach the article to this post, hopefully it works.
Neal in AZ
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Do you mean brake, as in muzzle brake? What type of gun is it for? AK or AR?
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If you do some research you will find that Rem 6.5's are a SR primer cup but with a smaller amount of priming compound. These are intended specifically for small cased caliber's like .22 Hornet. If you read the fine print on the box you will see that they are not even supposed to be used to load .223. In your case loading these for pistol rounds you may find that these don't affect things as much as a regular rifle primer with more priming compound.
Neal in AZ
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Just saw a review that said it was an anti-gun PSA.
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Funny, I made that comment to my Wife. This is just like the Godfather in a different setting.
New Glocks for 2015
in Glock
Posted
Is the G40 going to be 17L length or more like G35 length?