Intel6
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Posts posted by Intel6
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When I load .223 on my 650 I do it in a two stage process. I deprime/size/M die them and then throw then in the tumbler to cleam them off so I have what I call RTL brass which is ready to load. When I load it I only put a universal decapping die in #1 to clear the flash hole and then prime powder etc... For you it would almost be the same but yes, you would need to take the die out of Station #1 and load the rest of the way like normal.
Neal in AZ
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The vast majority of centerfire 22 caliber rifle cartridges use a bullet with a .224 outside diameter. 220 Swift, 219 Wasp, 222 Rem, 223 Rem, 22-250 Rem, all use the same diameter bullet. If I recall correctly, there are some .223 diameter bullets on the market. I think they are for some older/more obscure chamberings like 22 hornet, 218 bee.... etc.
Be certain to buy .224 bullets for use in the 223 Remington. This should be covered in any cartridge reloading manual.
Close.... Current/modern firearms chambered in things like .22 Hornet, .218 Bee etc.. all use the same diameter bullets as the larger caliber's .224" The reason there are .223" bullets out there is that many older rifles chambered in .22 Hornet began life as .22 LR caliber rifles and they were rechambered and the bolt face opened up. .22 LR barrels are .223" diameter so if you use a .22 LR barrel for a .22 Hornet you need to load .223" bullets. Most here understand that if you use .224" bullets in one of those guns it could lead to high pressure issues so companies still offer .223" bullets for loading those old rifles. Once more .22 cal centerfire calibers began to be introduced they standardized with the .224" dia bullets. Infact, .22 Magnum rimfire barrels are .224" and the ammo is loaded with regular jacketed .224" bullets.
Also, you might be surprised how un obscure many of these cartridges are, especially the .22 Hornet. I have 7 firearms chambered in .22 Hornet from makers like Anschutz, Ruger & T/C and CZ and Browning currently offer rifles chambered in .22H to name a few. In a different segment of the shooting community small calibers like the hornet and calibers based on the small cases are extremely popular.
Neal in AZ
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the primier punch is in station #2 so that won't helop with the decapping pin in #1. You can pull the decaping pin out of the die in #1 and you won't lose the primers. Are you still going to resize them?
Neal in AZ
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I jammed the grip safelty on my Spartan with a piece of shockbuff years ago when I first got it just to get shooting and never pinned it like I planned. Still using it that way al;l these years later.
Neal in AZ
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But only in .45 ACP and most would be looking for a .40.
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I use the Redding Profile Crimp on all my loads for my .45 AR revolvers.
The PC for revolvers does roll crimp the round but it also applies a taper crimp to improve bullet pull consistency.
As I have said in the past, the Redding PC has shown increased consistency both on my chronograph and on the targets when testing with my Ranson Rest. I have them for all revolver caliber's I load.
Neal in AZ
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I just got back from a vacation to the family beach house in Scituate, MA and noticed the same thing! I did my duty also and made sure they were taken care of.
Neal in AZ
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Could have been 9mm major brass fired from an AET barrel. I had a few likw this from my AET barrel, depended on the brand of brass.
Neal in AZ
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You probably want to be a bit more specific or you will be getting data that may not work for you.
5" or 6" barrel length
loaded OAL - loaded for Glock or STI?
ETC.......
Neal in AZ
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Most of thier blems are Hornady. I got some 250gr. .458" tipped bullets for my 458 SOCOM and some .22 cal 35 gr. tipped bullets for my Hornets and they both had red tips. Also, Hornady makes the tipped bullets for Remington, they just use a different color of plastic for the tips.
Neal in AZ
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My preferred solution to both S&B and WCC brass is the trash can. I have the tools to both swage them and ream them but at some point decided that either option was more trouble than it was worth considering the cost of 9mm brass, the amount of trouble, and the fact that roughly 5% of what I end up with falls in this category.
I save mine up and use them as jackets to swage into .40 bullets!
Pictures of before and after being shot at steel
Neal in AZ
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Donnie sells the coating on the site. My question is can I use it on a lead cast bullets that have a wax ring on it, or do I have to clean the wax off first before applying.
Im hoping I can buy cheap lead bullets and apply his coatin and save money in the long run.
since you cure the coating in an oven you will need to get rid of the wax first. Not sure if the remaining wax will cause problems letting the coating adhere? The coating is more for home casters or I guess someone couid buy unlubed bullets from a commercial caster and use it.
I suggest shooting what you have and then take it from there.
Neal in AZ
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From my prespective as a Program Manager with a large company, many times a certain position has a certain pay range associated with it. As you get close to the high end of that pay band your raises start slowing down because you are penetrated into the pay band too much. If you were to be put into the next higher position/pay band you would be starting back near the lower portion of the new band and your raises would be a higher presentage. It sucks becuase if you have good employees who do well and get good raises they increase fast but if you can't promote them into the next higher job position/code the raises start slowing down no matter how good of a job they do and how great of an eval I give them.
Not sure if that is what is in play here but that is how it works in my company and it may be similar in yours?
Neal in AZ
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Yes, would be interested to see if it fires. Wouldn't need to load powder and bullet, could just press it into the brass and see if the hammer sets it off. When I was a youngster, an old bullseye shooter used to do that in his garage for god knows what reason... checking his springs, I guess???
It would not go off in the manner of a regular primer as there is no anvil. A primer works by the firing pin (the hammer) smashing the priming compound pellet between it and the anvil. The primer is "set" when the primer is seated and there is pressure put on the priming pellet by the anvil. When you look at the primer the anvil "legs" protrude slightly past the edge of the primer cup. The legs of the anvil are what helps us flip the primers on their backs for priming. When the cup is seated flush in the primer pocket those legs are pressed up into the primer cup and "set" or "cock" the primer so it can be fired by a firing pin.
This is why when you don't seat a primer fully you get a light hit because you didn't "set" the primer. The first FP hit seats the primer and "sets" the anvil so when you hit it a second time it works properly.
Seating this primer without a anvil in it will keep it from functioning the way it is designed to do. Primers are sensitive though so I guess it could go off from the shock?
Neal in AZ
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Funny, never thought of them as mythical?
In college I worked for a commercial ammunition loader and we used ammo load machines that needed to be fed with primer tubes so there was a commercial version of the Dillon primer tube filler at every machine. While it is easy to dump primers in and ingnore it while it fills the tube I was told to always eyeball the primers going around in the filler. After I found my first bad primer I believed it was possible. In the thousands of rounds I loaded in my time working there (my max was 29 thousand 9mm's in one day) I found 5 messed up primers. 3x with no anvil and 2x that were just an empty cup.
One thing about using the old tray method is you get to eyeball every primer.
Neal in AZ
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Depends on the pistol. In 5" guns (Edge or Eagle) I like the hevier bullets but in my 6" limited gun I found I like the feel of the lighter 165's better.
Neal in AZ
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I got mine yesterday and really like the new look!
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Since it has not been mentioned by anyone, I will mention it, You talk about using Rem 6 1/2 primers for loading .223. I know in these days of using anything that is avaiable, I see lots of folks out there buying Rem 6 1/2 small rifle primers. I know the package says SRP but if you read closely it states that the 6 1/2 primer is for small case volume cartridges (.22 Hornet/.221 FB) and should not be used for .223.
I am a big shooter of small capacity cartridges (17 Ackley Hornet, 22 Hornet, 218 Mashburn Bee) and I use the REM 6 1/2 for these. The idea for those who don't know is that the SRP is too powerful for these small cartridges and it pops the bullet out of the case/crimp when it first goes off but before it ignites the powder. So you get the bullet jumping out, stopping and then getting slammed by the powder gasses. This does no good for accuracy and many found that using the lower powered small pistol primers in these cases prevented that and lead to greatly improved accuracy. One issue with this is that the pressures are still high and you can get pierced primers in some guns with the lighter cup SP's.
So Remington made up the 6 1/2 SR primer which uses their small rifle cup but uses less priming compound than the regular SR primer so it causes less disruption on ignition. I think the issues with using these in cartridges with larger amounts of powder is that they may not ignite causing hangfires or cause erratic ignition? I have never heard of anyone using them for .223 ammo but they have to be being used as they are being sold locally and I can't imgaine there are that many relaoders who load for the small calibers.
Have you used any of them yet for .223? I am guessing someone will pop up and say they have used them. I am curious if there was any difference when using them?
Neal in AZ
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Sorry to hear about your injury, first time I have ever heard of that happening. Reminds me of when I jammed the blade of an adjustable rear sight through the center of my palm trying to get the slide of a single stack pistol closed during a stage. ouch!
Neal in AZ
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Do a search for "Ringer" and you will see where this has been discussed a few times.
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=94655&hl=ringer#entry1085288
Neal in AZ
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You sound like you got some good advice about the M die, it will do exactly what you need it for. Just make sure you are using a decent crimp die to take the bell out of the case. I prefeer to use a light crimp with a Lee collet crimp but a good taper crimp would work well also.
No, you didn't get a 38 super revolver from me, I would never let one of those go!
Take Care,
Neal in AZ
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If I understand what you are asking the answer is no. You are saying you are planning on putting the M die in station #1 and then it will get powder at #2 and you are wondering if the powder funnel will disturb what the M die did?
I load all my .223 on my 650 in a two part process. I decap, size (without a decapping/neck expander pin) M die the brass and then toss it in the cleaner to take off the case lube. Then I have RTL (ready to load) brass that I just need to priemr/powder/bullet after makign sure the flash hole is clear.
I have done this for buckets of brass and never had any issues with negating the effects of the M die.
Just because you mentioned no experience with the M die. The M die is really a neck expanding die used to bring the case neck back up to propper size after necking the case neck down. For most rifle cartridges that is all you want to do with the die, expand the neck. Typically most rifle cartridges do not need their neck to be belled for loading like a normal handgun cartridge does.
Since Lyman, the maker of the M die, has such a history with cast bullets they also made the M die to help loading cast rifle bullets by giving the M die the ability to put a sligt bell on the case so when the lead bullet is seated, lead is not scraped off the bullet. This is accomplished by screwing the M die stem further down until you get some bell on the neck.
Not saying you can't use the M die to put a slight bell on the necks of your rifle cases, it is just that you typically don't do that with rifle cases and if you are not crimping correctly you may cause problems because you are not ensuring the bell has been removed on the finished round.
Neal in AZ
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I have very large hands and struggled to fing a magwell for my 2011's. I bought a pair of used Dawson Ice magwells for my 17L and G24 and have had no issues with them and my big hands?
Neal in AZ
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I use them in .45 ACP loaded with a roll crimp for my 625's with a lot of success. I have also shot them in .45 ACP for my autos and they work well.
Neal in AZ
Sti grip for a SV
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
Same grip made by STI for SV throught their agreement, just took out the little STI moulded in the center of the grip and put in an SV sticker.