icer

Flex--- Most steel guns are very lightweight for quicker transitions and draws. The slides are frequently milled to speed up the cycling time, and very light springs are used because of the lower power factors. You will also sometimes see aluminum comps instead of steel comps. STI/SVI are the most popular because guys like to run guns similar to their IPSC race guns. Single stacks are also popular because you don't need high capacity for Steel Challenge type matches. If you have an old 1911 laying around you might have the basis for an inexpensive but competitive steel gun, or buy a Springfield 1911 in .38 Super and add a comp, trigger job, and optics. I've been thinking about messing with a Glock 34 with Bo-Mar sights for limited steel and man-on-man shoots.

Flex--- Give the new gun a good once over and make sure it was assembled properly at the factory. Then lubricate it well with a quality oil and hit the high friction areas with a moly grease to cut down on wear and smooth things up. Out at the range burn the 200 rounds in a steady solid practice. The purpose of this is to be as hard on the gun as you would in a match. Any more rounds and your shoulder will be sore, any less and your not pushing the gun to its limits. Make sure the ammo cycles the action and patterns well. At the last 3-Gun Nationals we had to deal with both dry windy conditions with dust and heavy rain. In my squad alone we had 3 Remingtons go down for the day. Your shotgun needs to be reliable as well as fast. The lighter loads may work all right but I like to shoot at least 1 1/8 ounce loads with 3 drams in competition. Guarantees the gun will work and takes down the steel quick.

Flex--- While every shotgun is different and you never know what will function in a given gun until you try, that particular load should give good results for 3-Gun matches. I like the smaller shot because it tends to pattern better, less flyers, thus I get more lead on big poppers. I don't go to a different shot size for long targets I use a tighter choke. The smaller shot also has a denser pattern for the moving or stationary clays, no big holes in the pattern mean less misses. If the steel is in tight, 10 to 18 yards, or there are a lot of clays I will use an improved cylinder choke and go for top speed. If the steel is past 18 yards and I'm shooting on the move I use a modified choke. Anything farther out, or if I'm shooting from a supported position I may go to a full choke, but this is rare. For slugs I use a modified choke. The best advice I can give is to keep the gun simple and quick and to find a reliable load and stay with it. Spend $30 and bust 200 rounds of the Federal through your new toy, expect 100% reliability and see if getting it dirty causes it to quit. Good luck......

Hey Erik.... Where in the course description does it tell you to close your weak eye??? One of the reasons I shoot with both eyes open is to gain a little time when shooting right to left. I've had it explained to me that a right handed shooter can shoot faster R to L because their weak eye will pick up the target faster and the strong eye will maintain the sight picture. Not sure if this is true but it makes some sense..... Was hoping to meet you at Ione for the steel match this last weekend.....pretty good turnout. Next month should be a good warm-up for the Challenge, 7 stages and time afterwards to practice.

Duane--- I hear what you're saying regarding the danger of mercury exposure, but I've never seen a safety problem with the product. I've been running Harrts rods in three of my guns for the last four years, so far no problems such as you described. I keep a close eye on them and check for wear at every cleaning, just as I do for every other part in the gun. Regarding recoil impulse, every person interprets this differently and my impression is that the Harrts does soften felt recoil more than the next best alternative---tungsten.

DRG--- I tried a Seattle Slug for a while when I first got my G35. Since then I have switched to the THE Accessories brass mag well. Similar weight and much better for fast reloads, good quality also. Slugs and mag wells don't do too much for splits and recoil, the added weight is in the wrong place. They can definitely speed up your reloads though and possibly help the reliability of the Glock. The more weight you add to the frame the better the gun will perform in a "weak wrist" or poor grip situation.....weak hand too. The one addition I did to my G35 that has helped with recoil and muzzle flip was add a Harrtz recoil reducer. I know they aren't as popular as tungsten guide rods but I have run them head to head in my gun and my shooting partner and I both agreed the Harrtz worked noticeably better. They don't weigh as much as the tungsten rods but they also don't break like tungsten does either. As Nik pointed out, fancy gadgets aren't nearly as effective as perfect practice. If you want to be competitive with a Glock start dry-firing now and don't ever stop, not even when you have it down cold. The Glock trigger is a cruel master.....

I picked up an early "preban" M-1 Super 90 for limited 3 gun. After putting in a Wolff 25% reduced power recoil spring all my cycling problems went away. I use Remington reduced recoil slugs and PMC 3 dram, ounce 1/8, #8's for steel. I also stopped using the Tac-Star side saddle and went with a Buchanon Bagworks 8 round nylon shell holder, works great and doesn't affect cycling. Apparently older Benellis were sprung for heavy slug and buckshot loads, new ones are a bit more forgiving but still require breaking in and lubrication.

Paul--- I have to second Bill's advice.....George at EGW is doing the best sight work on Glocks bar none.....He thinned a Heinie front sight to .1 for me and melted a Bo-Mar adjustable rear into the slide.....everybody says it's the cleanest install and best sight picture they've ever seen on a Glock 35.....His turnaround was right on time and he even sent it out next day Saturday delivery so I could shoot a steel match on Sunday......a true gentleman and a damn good machinist! P.S. Go thinner on the front sight, .09 would be perfect in my opinion..... FWIW