speed
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Posts posted by speed
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Anybody know where I can find the two toned miculek grips? I can only find the natural brown wood colored ones.
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Speed,
I have not been able to get to a match during the last month or so. I hope to get to one during the next 3 weeks. I'll let you know if my arthritic joints can handle the exta "oomph". If it hurts me more than my 627 I'll put it up for sale.
Tony
I made the plunge and purchased the 327 JM version with Ti cylinder and barrel shroud. While I cannot get the trigger as light as my 627 PC it is more than acceptable. Recoil is much snappier than the 627 but it appears to come back to target faster. I will put another 500 rounds through it before deciding if it's a keeper.Tony,
Are you happy with that 327 JM. I'm looking for one now. Cant find one though.
Ok sounds good. Hope it hurts! ....only joking. Let me know. Is it the old style 5" with scandium frame and titanium cylinder?
I know.... it does kick more than 627 I'm used to snappy kick though.
Thanks
al
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Speed,
I have not been able to get to a match during the last month or so. I hope to get to one during the next 3 weeks. I'll let you know if my arthritic joints can handle the exta "oomph". If it hurts me more than my 627 I'll put it up for sale.
Tony
I made the plunge and purchased the 327 JM version with Ti cylinder and barrel shroud. While I cannot get the trigger as light as my 627 PC it is more than acceptable. Recoil is much snappier than the 627 but it appears to come back to target faster. I will put another 500 rounds through it before deciding if it's a keeper.Tony,
Are you happy with that 327 JM. I'm looking for one now. Cant find one though.
Ok sounds good. Hope it hurts! ....only joking. Let me know. Is it the old style 5" with scandium frame and titanium cylinder?
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I made the plunge and purchased the 327 JM version with Ti cylinder and barrel shroud. While I cannot get the trigger as light as my 627 PC it is more than acceptable. Recoil is much snappier than the 627 but it appears to come back to target faster. I will put another 500 rounds through it before deciding if it's a keeper.
Tony,
Are you happy with that 327 JM. I'm looking for one now. Cant find one though.
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A fellow shooter has a S&W 327 PC with both the Jerry Miculek wood and Houge rubber grips. The gun is alloy frame with titanium cylinder and titanium shroud over a stainless steel barrel. In actual weight it's lighter than a 4 inch barreled K-frame target revolver.
I have not been able to find the gun on S&W's website. Was this a limited production gun? Has anyone had any experience shooting such a light gun in competition?
Tony,
Did you ever find that 327? I'm looking for one also. Do you have any sources?
I think post #19 Tony says he got a 327JM.
The only 327JM I see on the net is this one:
Thanks for the info. I called and its a 2" model I need a 5". Hard to find.
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A fellow shooter has a S&W 327 PC with both the Jerry Miculek wood and Houge rubber grips. The gun is alloy frame with titanium cylinder and titanium shroud over a stainless steel barrel. In actual weight it's lighter than a 4 inch barreled K-frame target revolver.
I have not been able to find the gun on S&W's website. Was this a limited production gun? Has anyone had any experience shooting such a light gun in competition?
Tony,
Did you ever find that 327? I'm looking for one also. Do you have any sources?
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Its weird that the bullet never left the case, was there an obstruction in the barrel?
I'll be at Harvard on Sunday. They always come up with some great stages
If case blew apart at rear, then there was not enough pressure to expel the bullet. It happens very fast! Congratulations on stage win though.
Fast is an understatement... There was no "BANG" or "BOOM" just a very loud "PSSSSSSSSSSST' with purple smoke exiting up into my face.
YUP kinda sounds like gun powder burning Pretty scary I bet!
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Its weird that the bullet never left the case, was there an obstruction in the barrel?
I'll be at Harvard on Sunday. They always come up with some great stages
If case blew apart at rear, then there was not enough pressure to expel the bullet. It happens very fast! Congratulations on stage win though.
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This weekend at our match I was picking up brass and I picked up some 9mm that the fireing pin strike was not on center it was over to the edge about where the primer started to bend probally in the thickest part of the primer I was wondering what caused it to strike there ??????? any idea......... :popcorn1:
Gun not fully into battery will cause off center hits on primers.
+1 and luckily, it did not fire.
What do you mean by +1 and luckily, it did not fire?
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I installed an infinity alum/titanium trigger in my STI 2011. It was too tight where the trigger shoe came in contact with the receiver, just before it came into the trigger guard area, inserting it from the rear.
I ended up taking off some material above and below the trigger slot in the grip.
I know you should work on/file the part that is the least expensive. Should I have filed the trigger shoe instead of the grip?
What about if the grip is a single stack 1911 that is alum or steel?
Randy
I usually take the trigger put between fingers and sand it on a flat surface on some sand paper. When thats done then I polish.
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This weekend at our match I was picking up brass and I picked up some 9mm that the fireing pin strike was not on center it was over to the edge about where the primer started to bend probally in the thickest part of the primer I was wondering what caused it to strike there ??????? any idea......... :popcorn1:
Gun not fully into battery will cause off center hits on primers.
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I just acquired a Meopta K-Dot scope and LaRue SPR-E mount. They are going on a 20" HBAR flat top AR15 in .223 (not too much recoil, obviously). Do you guys have any special tips for ensuring the best possible zero-retention ? I know to use blue Loctite on the mount screws, but do you have any other tips or suggestions ? I've always been a Tac Iron guy, so I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to quality optics... thanks in advance.
When mounting meopta, you'll need to put some shims underneath scope to get it centered to barrel. You can use some playing cards, or I used feeler gauges. Purple loctite is also ok.
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I do most of my .45 shooting through a suppressor, so I like to use clean powders for the health of the can. I am fairly new to loading .45acp, and was told that 231 was clean by a local. I am not satisfied with its cleanliness - lots of black soot everywhere, and it gets all over me when I shoot wet. I will use up the pound of 231 I have, but can anyone recommend me a truly spotless .45 powder to replace it with?
Thanks!
[/quot
CLAYS......soooo soft.
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I recently bought a used SVI in .40 for limited and when it arrived I noticed a couple of issues. The first was that the grip safety did not work (which should be an easy fix) but the second is that the hammer has a very small (hairline) crack in the upper back part of the hammer. The crack extends from one side to the other and would be just under your thumb, if you were to pull the hammer back with your thumb. I have not fired it yet. How much of an issue is this? Should I send it to SVI and have them replace it?
The pistol is in great shape otherwise and looks excellent. I suppose it could have happened in shipping but I will never know.
Any suggestions? This is my first S_I.
Send it back. There is a lot of stress when the hammer hits frame/firing pin. Eventually it will break.
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Well I've had nothing but trouble with my 650 for the past few months to the point I'm going to smash it to pieces. Before I moved to my new house I never had a problem with it. First the spring that holds the the case in the shellplate in station 2 popped out and I lost it. No big deal. Got a new one from Dillon. Well naturally I lost the 2nd one while trying to install it. In the process of finding it I found the old one but couldn't find the new one but the old one is a bit bent. I got it to fit in and maybe that is part of my problem.
Then, on the downstroke on the machine it is sticking about 1/2 way in the pull. It is so tight that I have to slam it to get it to cycle. This has been happening for a while now. So, I took the machine apart today and cleaned it and oiled it etc. Problem is still there. Next, the primers are not cycling and are jamming up the machine. If that wasn't enough the first station isn't popping the primers completely out so that is also causing the machine to jam.
I'm trying to think of the other problems I've had with it because it has been nothing but a problem. I've loaded about 20,000 rounds on this P.O.S. but now I can't really do anything with it. It took me 3 1/2 hours tonight to load 350 rounds. It usually takes about 1 hour to load 700-800 for me.
What do you think I should do with this piece of crap? Should I send it back to Dillon and see if they can fix it or should I try fixing it myself? If I do the later where should I start?
Please help me I'm getting desperate to the point I don't want to shoot anymore because I absolutely HATE reloading now.
Pete
Call dillon they will send you a new primer station.
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Anybody have an opinion on which optic is faster for knockdown steel. Aimpoint mini w/4moa (tube) or C-more w6moa. Used on a 38 super 327 full size revolver. Which is faster to pick up dot after reloads.
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Would you happen to know where I can purchase a casepro. I cant find it anywhere. Casepro website is no longer available.
Thanks
al
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Of course you can. I just did it today. Yeah, a 9mm case is tapered but from a nominal .391 at the head just above the extractor groove. A 38 super case is .384 at the same spot, .006 LESS than the 9mm. So a 9mm case in 38 super dies are actually sized tighter than in a 9mm die. I have been playing with 9mm loads in my 627-4 revolver for a while now and had been running the 9mm cases through a 38 super case pro roll sizer to get them to fit the charge holes reliably. It works great. I didn't think to just use my 38 super dies and eliminate the extra step. Anyway , I loaded 10 9mm' s with 3.5 titegroup /147 MG fmj tc to factory 9mm length on my dillon 650 on my 38 super conversion. I did NOT adjust the crimping die, so I had no crimp, which I would do in regular practice. Ran them through a Kahr P9 like water through a hose. It ain"t about being cheap, since I obviously HAVE both die sets, but it's sure fun to sink some of these old wives tales.
Does anybody know where I can pick up a case pro? Seems as though the website casepro.net is no longer available. Is he selling them anymore?
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Of course you can. I just did it today. Yeah, a 9mm case is tapered but from a nominal .391 at the head just above the extractor groove. A 38 super case is .384 at the same spot, .006 LESS than the 9mm. So a 9mm case in 38 super dies are actually sized tighter than in a 9mm die. I have been playing with 9mm loads in my 627-4 revolver for a while now and had been running the 9mm cases through a 38 super case pro roll sizer to get them to fit the charge holes reliably. It works great. I didn't think to just use my 38 super dies and eliminate the extra step. Anyway , I loaded 10 9mm' s with 3.5 titegroup /147 MG fmj tc to factory 9mm length on my dillon 650 on my 38 super conversion. I did NOT adjust the crimping die, so I had no crimp, which I would do in regular practice. Ran them through a Kahr P9 like water through a hose. It ain"t about being cheap, since I obviously HAVE both die sets, but it's sure fun to sink some of these old wives tales.
Does anybody know where I can pick up a case pro? Seems as though the website casepro.net is no longer available. Is he selling them anymore?
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Anybody know proper procedure in cutting slide dovetail for a shooters conn sidewinder racker? Dovetail for sight is is 356 by 60. Problem is that the racker is thicker than the dovetail cutter dept. also it will stick up too high from top of slide and will hit my scope mount. Will I need to mill top of racker?
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Cool thanks for the info. Yes I like it also, easy on easy off. No worry about having that allen key around.
Thanks again
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Thanks for the info. BTW would you happen to know which beginning and end force will be sufficient. There are so many options.
Thanks again
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Anybody know procedure to install a spring loaded ball detent in dovetail to hold in a slide racker. Are they pressed in or threaded? Tired of dealing with the setscrew that keeps comming loose.
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Thanks for the info everyone.
Miculek Grips
in Revolver Forum
Posted
Yes thanks. I just found them as you responded.
Thanks again
al