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speed
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Posts posted by speed
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If you have to have 1 revolver, what barrel length would be the best? I'm not really interested in shooting IDPA, mainly USPSA, any ICORE matches I might be able to get to. Just trying to decide if I need a 4" or a 5" 625. Thanks for your help, Dave
If you wanna see a sweet 4"open S&W 327 that I built send me your e-mail I'll forward picts to you.
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If you have to have 1 revolver, what barrel length would be the best? I'm not really interested in shooting IDPA, mainly USPSA, any ICORE matches I might be able to get to. Just trying to decide if I need a 4" or a 5" 625. Thanks for your help, Dave
If your shooting open its not going to matter much, actually maybe the 4" might be better for you.... it will be lighter. If iron then I would opt for the 5" longer sight radius also probably a bit more accurate.
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Detent Ball Search a couple of threads that might help.
Thanks
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Speed-
You're correct, there is a slight cup at the end of the punch. See your other post (I just posted to it) for an idea on how to align it.
Thank you Shadow.
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A center drill is always the best way to start a hole. Drill the hole as deep as you can without having problems (like drilling into the
firing pin hole), then cut the spring to be two coils above, put the ball on top and make sure it will compress flush or below the
surface before staking. If it won't go down far enough, cut off half a coil at a time until it will go. Put the cut end in the bottom of
the hole and the closed end under the ball.
Very cool. I got it. I thank you again for your responces. They were very helpful.
Thanks again
al
Happy Holidays!
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That's it! It's much easier to do than to explain. You may want to center punch where the lines cross to keep the drill from walking.
That was my next question. That always happens to me.... the bit moves a little and I get a sloppy looking hole. Which is best to start with...a center drill? Also I guess I'll have to take a measurement of the ball and also the spring when compressed to get my overall drill depth- Then drill into slide a bit deeper than this overall measurement. If that ends up being too deep I guess I can cut coils of spring. Not sure exactly how deep I will want the ball to compress below top of slide to give me good pressure onto bottom of racker. I'm thinking maybe 1/8 inch below dovetail should do.. Not sure though.
BTW I thank you for these ideas. I can tell you know what your talking about.
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The other way is not too critical. If you have calipers, open them to the desired number,tighten the little thumbscrew on top
to keep it in place, and use one jaw for an edge guide and one jaw to scribe a line across the line made by the ball.
Got it. SO once the ball detent is in the dovetail I will slide the racker back&fourth which will make a line on bottom of racker, this is center line, then use calipers and measure from one edge of dovetail on frame to center of ball, lock calipers at that point-then transfer that measurement to bottom of racker perpendicular to other line, this is center. Drill it! Do I have it?
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Once the ball is installed with spring pressure behind it, run the racker back and forth in the dovetail. The ball will make a line
on the other part where the center of the ball drags on the surface. You can then use a fine pointed object in the drill chuck
to center the drill on the line.
Good idea. So once I see the line on bottom of racker that gives me center long ways how about other way? measure?
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Speed-
I use the crane ball and spring kit from Brownells. It includes a staking punch.
CRANE BALL DRILLING FIXTURE for S&W
Mfr: POWER CUSTOM
Add Cylinder Lock-Up Strength The Foolproof Way
Adding a spring-loaded, locking ball in the cylinder crane is standard practice on Smith & Wesson K, L and N Frame revolvers, especially when installing a bull barrel. Steel fixture holds the crane secure and in proper alignment for drilling; makes it virtually impossible to mislocate the hole or drill at the wrong angle. Comes complete with No. 30 drill bit, .125” diameter locking balls, springs, and staking punch.
SPECS: Drilling Fixture - Steel, blued finish. 1½" (3.8cm) long, 1" (2.5cm) wide, 2" (5.1cm) high. Includes No. 30 cobalt drill bit, (20) 302 SS locking balls, 20 springs, and staking punch. Crane Ball & Spring Kit - Contains 20 locking balls, 20 springs, and staking punch. Crane Ball & Spring Refill - Contains 10 balls and 10 springs. Designed for K, L and N Frame yokes only.
Cool I found it. I'm assuming that that punch they give has a small hole in bottom to allow ball to go into partially. Am I correct? Is it difficult to put a detent ball/spring in dovetail accurately, also I'm trying to figure out how to center the ball once in the frame with hole in bottom of racker. Not sure if measuring will be exact.
Thanks again
al
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So how about drilling long ways through the racker dovetail and putting a leaf spring in there that presses down on a detent? You're Mr. Wizard, firgure it out
[/quote
Sounds close. How about drilling a hole in dovetail of frame, put spring in hole with ball on top then push into hole and displace some metal on top by tapping with a punch that is slightly larger in diameter to the hole. Problem is I'm not sure you'll have control on how high the ball will sit in frame/dovetail. It might sit too far in frame then it wont do anything. At that point your scr...d. Good luck trying to get that ball out! If anybody knows the most accurate way to get this job done please share.
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Anybody ever install a ball detent for a slide racker? is there a special tool for this job or just a punch? Any tips?
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Anybody have any info on installing a crane ball lock on a S&W 327pd. There doesnt seem to have enough shroud material for the ball to seat into on this pd model. Is it still possible to do.
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Hard-chroming internals is fine, but the parts should be smooth before the chrome job is done, otherwise you're just putting a hard skin over rough surfaces.
Ok thanks
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Is it a good idea to hard chrome internals on a smith revolver? Will it make the action a bit easier/smoother?
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Ok. Can't help with that one. I have a V Comp barrel that I'm not using.
My gunsmith got my Times 8 from S&W.
Take care,
Seiichi
Ok Thanks
al
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Which barrel are you looking for? the Times 8 or the V Comp?
Seiichi
Times 8
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Anybody know where to purchase a new 627 PC barrel, Or is it best to go through S&W for this?
If you can wait a while I'll have a barrel, yoke and cylinder. 5" 627-5.
Is barrel new or used?
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Anybody know where to purchase a new 627 PC barrel, Or is it best to go through S&W for this?
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Should be no problem. The screw doesn't screw into the frame, just the adapter.... er... thing.
Ok cool. So in addition to the screw in middle of grip there is also a screw at bottom of the 327 pd just like 627?
speed, As cas noted in his post the screw is for the Hogue mono grips ( which is what Jerry's is) The adapter goes over rollpin that is inplace on the butt of the revo. And if the 327 is a round butt ( which is what S&W makes now) No problem putting a Jerry Grip on the 327. I change my grips on my revos every once in a while from the monogrip to the two piece. I don't know why but I do....
. Later rdd
Ok great. Thanks guys!
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Should be no problem. The screw doesn't screw into the frame, just the adapter.... er... thing.
Ok cool. So in addition to the screw in middle of grip there is also a screw at bottom of the 327 pd just like 627?
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Two piece grips Vs one piece grips.
Would I be able to put miculek wood grip on this model? The miculek grip has one screw on bottom of grip.
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Anybody know why the 327PD model has that screw in middle of the grip? Also, can a miculek wood grip be installed on this frame. Just not sure why there is a grip screw in middle of this N frame. All my revolvers have a single grip screw on bottom of grip, not in middle.
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Still cant decide on which low mount to go with though. For a steel challenge 327 w /scandium frame. Want to kep gun light, and c-more as close as possible to barrel
As far as I know the only one that fits that description is pinshooters.
I know I'm going to order one.
Thanks
al
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Anybody know where I can find the two toned miculek grips? I can only find the natural brown wood colored ones.
Jerry sells them on his site.
Still cant decide on which low mount to go with though. For a steel challenge 327 w /scandium frame. Want to kep gun light, and c-more as close as possible to barrel
bullet pricing
in General Reloading
Posted
Anybody hear anything about bullet prices comming down. Metals are way down lately. Prices should reflect new metals costs.