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SGT_Schultz

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Posts posted by SGT_Schultz

  1. 1 hour ago, HesedTech said:

    Sarge,

     

    Which leads to the question, is a 1/2 cocked gun which is not a de-cocker considered “hammer not fully forward” and therefore it is back and requires the safety to be on when holstered and ready to start?

     

    This is what needs to be clarified and therefore close the opinion gap. 

     

    I agree it's a murky area.  I agree with @slavex interpretation, since decocker CZs drop the hammer to that spot.  It is not unsafe.  If it was the penalty would be a DQ and not a bump to open.

     

    I don't have any CZs with a safety, so I don't know if the safety can even be engaged with the hammer at half cock.  Something tells me that it depends on how the safety was fitted to the sear in each individual gun.

     

    The easiest thing to do is to do away with any mention of half cock in the rules.  The difference in the force it takes to pull the trigger is hardly measurable, and I've tried.  It's really only a difference in reach to the trigger.

  2. 5 hours ago, ricardo28 said:

    Not sure we agree on what Irrelevant means. A dot blooming in the morning moisture is irrelevant? That is a huge concern especially if your LEO carrying in a duty holster and work in a damp area. To you, it may be irrelevant but to many more, it is a huge concern.

     

    I've shot in the rain.  Didn't need a crisp dot to make the first hit and the slide cycle threw most of the water off.

     

    There are other gun related things that matter to cops that are of no concern to me.

  3. 1 minute ago, BhamCZ said:

    Yeah the guy seemed to be surprised. Truly hope he didn't know but there are plenty of people out there looking to scam people. He says he traded for it as well.  The first thing that made me think was the box all others I saw were pretty big box.  Then didn't have any of the orange stuff and even if you didn't like it that would be a item to keep when selling. Then I noticed the 2 different serial numbers. I saw about the guide rod and all but couldn't tell from the pics really. 

    So the frame was refinished as well.

  4. 9 minutes ago, BhamCZ said:

    I had my scorpion and all at 1600 and he had his at I think 1700 but we were just going to do a straight up trade. And that's what I was afraid of is that it was just an actual Shadow to not the orange and wasn't going to be worth it on my end

     

    Go to gunbroker and you'll find dozens of NIB Shadow 2s for $1100-$1200.

     

    I wouldn't trade straight across unless you're overestimating the value of your trade.

  5. 7 hours ago, GeneBray said:

    If a loaded firearm is holstered and not a specified ready condition for the firearm, then I believe that is a DQ. 

     

    There is only one instance in which you're right: holstering a handgun with the hammer cocked and no safety engaged.

     

    Otherwise, no, it isn't a DQ.

     

     

  6. @BhamCZ the fact that the slide has a different serial number wouldn't matter to me.  it's the correct slide for a Shadow 2.  That's all that matters.

     

    The serial numbers on the barrel and slide matter only to Europeans due to laws in their countries.

  7. 55 minutes ago, Jeremyc_1999 said:

    If they holster a decocked pistol that does not have the safety on is that also a dq (providing the gun has a safety)?

    Can the safety on that pistol be engaged when the hammer is down?

  8. 3 hours ago, matt7184 said:

     

    The footprint may be the same but certain plates are made to tighter dimensions.  Don't be shocked if your Holosun won't work on a FCD plate that is made to tighter tolerances than a Holosun... 

    That's not how it necessarily works.  

     

    Tolerances are meaningless unless the basic dimensions are correct.  

     

    All I'll say about this topic (design and mfg of mating parts) is that it's one in which I have professional expertise and I can spot BS a mile away.

  9. 3 hours ago, chrisrdba said:


    Looking forward to it— Ill take all the feedback I can get, thanks!

     

    OK, first off most of the advice you've been give is very good with one notable exception that I already pointed out for you.  So some of what I'm going to say might be repetitive but you might find some of it useful.

     

    Let's start with dry fire.  The point of dry fire isn't to play clickity click with the trigger.  Resetting the trigger after every pull in every dry fire drill is a complete waste of time.  Save that for trigger manipulation drills.  For everything else you do in dry fire: draws, reloads, transitions, movement with the gun, unloaded starts (from the holster and from a table), etc you don't even need to touch the trigger at all.  And let me assure you that it's all those non-trigger pressing drills the ones that will provide you with the most benefit.  That's not to say that you shouldn't work on a clean trigger press without jerking it.  But a strong, correct grip will fix most of your trigger press problems.

     

    At the stage where you are the first live fire priority is basic marksmanship and developing a grip that will make the pistol recoil predictably and brings the sights back on target in alignment without having to fix it afterwards.  As soon as you have basic marksmanship down relatively well (to me that means you can land 10/10 shots in the A zone at 25 yards at a slow pace) then you need to start amping up the speed of your shooting in parallel to developing your grip.  A grip is useless if it can hold together when shooting one round per second but falls apart when trying to shoot two or three rounds per second.  I can't stress this enough, shooting speed will not happen on its own after you get "more accurate".  You have to force the issue and fail.

     

    As to the gun, it depends.  If the Glock 19 is your carry gun, start with the G22.  But even if you start with Glock, put some time with the CZ.  As you develop you might find that the CZ might make shooting fast and accurately easier.  Whatever you do make sure the pistol you choose has an extremely rough grip.  You can get with in many ways.  With the Glocks you can add skateboard tape, you can stipple them, or you can glue on silicon carbide.  With the CZ, LOK Bogie grip panels are the ticket, as well as skateboard tape on the front and back straps.  Also get some liquid chalk grip lotion from Amazon and put it on your hands every time you dry or live fire.

  10. 3 hours ago, twodownzero said:

     

    that your gun should never be empty when you're reloading it in a match.  If it is, you screwed up, and you should just forget about that stage and move on. 

     

     

    LOL This is plain bulls#!t

     

    @chrisrdba please don't listen to this bad advice.  Never, EVER, give up on a stage no matter how badly you think you screwed up.

     

    While an unplanned slide lock reload is not good for your stage time, giving up after one seeds some really disastrous habits in your mind.

  11. 1 hour ago, twodownzero said:

    There is no reason you should ever be using the slide stop in USPSA.  If that happens, you have made a mistake serious enough that the stage you're shooting is a lost cause anyway.

    More than once I've planned a slide lock reload when there's a move between positions that takes more than a few steps in order to take advantage of that 11th round.

     

    It has to be a really short move before the extra .5 second it takes my support hand thumb to hit the slide release on my way to reestablishing my grip to make a negative difference.

  12. 2 hours ago, chrisrdba said:

    Greetings. I'm wanting to get into USPSA and am definitely going to heed the advice I see all over the place of "shoot what you already own when you're new". My plan is to start in Production. My pistol options are:

     

    1) CZ SP01 Tactical w Cajun Gun Works Pro Package. 

    2) Gen 4 Glock 22 that's been converted to 9mm (effectively a G 17). 

    3) Gen 5 Glock 19.

     

    In the last few years I haven't done a lot of shooting. My main goal is to improve pistol handling skills for self defense, with the competition aspect coming after that. 

     

    The CZ or G17 would be obvious choices. What the G19 has going for it is the ambi slide release, and the fact that I'm a lefty. I've had enough training to do fast mag changes even when I need to slingshot the slide -- likely not as fast as many competitors. Certainly not as fast as simply using my thumb. While practical pistol usage is really my main goal, I'll just assume the whole thing is a lot more fun when you dont come in dead last constantly.  All said, any advice on which of these 3 I should use based on my circumstances?

     

    Also, I have one of those boresight laser gizmos that go in the chamber to help w dry firing like this one. My thought is using it in my CZ in double action enables me to not need to reset after each shot, work on transitions, etc. However, the trigger is obviously much different than the same gun in SA or the Glocks. Is this the wrong approach to that training?

     

    Thanks!

     

    I started in Production three years ago.  I have quite a bit of feedback for you and I'll do it when am back on a real key board this evening.  Typing a detailed answer on a phone sucks.

  13. 6 hours ago, slavex said:

    Strangely you are correct, but it's not because of the course of fire beginning at Make Ready, it's because there is literally this statement under "special conditions" in Production Div and Carry Optics; "Manually decocking to the half-cocked position is not allowed and will result in the competitor being moved to Open division"

     

    Absolutely bizarre rule dude. 

     

    There's nothing strange about a range officer striving to know the rules to make a correct call.

     

    And yes, the official start of the course of fire matters very much.  The starting condition for the pistols we're discussing here is defined in 8.1.2.3 and that starting condition applies during the course of fire, which begins at the make ready command. 

     

    Personally I disagree with that special condition but my likes and dislikes don't enter into this.

  14. 1 hour ago, IHAVEGAS said:

     

    Are you saying that guns with decockers are less safe carried with the hammer full down than guns without? Otherwise I don't understand your comment.

     

    That isn't what I'm saying at all and not sure how that got construed so.

     

    DA/SA guns without decockers are the minority and only two companies still make them in any significant numbers.

  15. 1 hour ago, RePete said:

    This just in.

     

    In order to continue serving our IDPA members and clubs with the same high level of service and support they have come to expect, we are raising the annual rates, effective January 1, 2022.

     

     

     

    I wonder why.......

  16. 52 minutes ago, jripper said:

    Grand Power makes a DA with no decocker, and I believe the Beretta 92X does not have one.  

     

    As I said, I didn't care to list all the oddball exceptions.

  17. 56 minutes ago, jripper said:

    So you are saying, if I lower my hammer on my DA auto to make ready, I stop it too soon, and go to half cock, and immediately realize it and lower it the rest of the way I go to open because for that split second it stopped at half cock?  

     

     

    I'm not saying that.  The rulebook says that.

  18. 1 hour ago, IHAVEGAS said:

    As noted elsewhere, if you read the manuals of the d.a./s.a. guns you will typically read that the guns were designed to provide two safe options for carry.

     

    Actually, CZ and Tanfoglio are the only two companies that make DA/SA pistols without decockers.  They also make DA/SA pistols with decockers.  Pretty much everyone else who makes DA/SA pistols with a safety integrates it with the decocker, so the hammer decocks when you put the lever on safe and it cannot be carried cocked and locked.  Beretta 92F is the most common of the type.

     

    I'm ignoring all the turkish clones out there.

  19. 15 hours ago, GmanCdp said:

    Wonder why nobody has used an Epoxy on the mounting plate along with screws ?

     

    they make Epoxy remover if needed.

     

    Attack dissolves cured epoxy and polyester resins. It is used to separate bonded but misaligned materials as well as the clean up of cured resin from metal, stone, glass, wood, and similar materials. Use this anytime you are getting a stone off a dop that was attached with a glue. 

    -This is an 8oz resealable can

     

    image.thumb.jpeg.a4f954300a8aeb912f797b11ca76d176.jpeg

    I had a similar thought yesterday, and it was to bed the optic to the plate to make up any gaps just like you bed a picatinny base to the top of a rifle receiver.

     

    One had to be very careful to not bed around any reverse tapered surfaces of the sight or it will be mechanically locked in place permanently.

  20. On 11/14/2021 at 11:22 AM, vluc said:

    I reached out to FCD, they let me know that they only do plates for American made optics (Trijicon and DPP).  I have to say, and I did said to them, that I admire them for that.   They did pass on that Holosun may be making their own plates.

     

    It doesn't matter what they said.  Certain Holosun pistol RDS sights fit any plate made for the RMR (FCD included) because those Holosun models have the same base design as the RMR.

     

     

  21. 6 minutes ago, TimHawkins said:

    I don't understand why the rules don't allow for you to start with the hammer back and safety engaged. Many instructors teach that lowering the hammer is an ad waiting to happen and when lowering the hammer all the way down you risk a discharge if the gun is dropped.

     From a safety standpoint I think they need to look at changing this rule. If the firearm was designed to use a manual safety then that is the safest way to carry and use the weapon.

      I don't see any advantage for the shooter having to disengage the safety and it would be safer for everyone.

     Tim

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    The pistols that we're talking about here are designed to be carried either cocked and locked or hammer down equally safely.  Your safety argument doesn't apply.

     

    Whoever teaches that manually lowering the hammer is an AD waiting to happen is someone I wouldn't listen to because they clearly don't know how to do it safely. 

     

    The statement that hammer down carry will lead to an AD on a dropped pistol MIGHT be true if a gun has no firing pin block AND its firing pin and/or firing pin spring are not OEM.  It's definitely horses#!t if the pistol in question has a firing pin block.

     

    Production division was created, in part, to give non SAO pistols a division where they would not be at a disadvantage against SAO pistols.  Sice carry optics was an outgrow of production, same applies.  There will be massive opposition to allowing any pistol to start in single action in either division.

  22. 11 hours ago, Stevetford said:

    I have been focused on accuracy and hoping speed will come later. So far that’s not happening. 

     

    And speed will never come if you continue to focus in accuracy and hoping to somehow get faster.

     

    The old "slow is smooth and smooth is fast" saying is complete horses#!t.

     

    If you want to go fast you need to push to go fast.  

     

    There's a lot more to it than that and I 100% agree with others who've said that getting competition-focused training sooner than later is very beneficial.  You cannot limit yourself to your local area.  Travel to one if you can't get what you need at home.

     

    Lastly, some top level shooters have published books with training and practice systems for self improvement.  Ben Stoeger and Steve Anderson come to mind.  If you want to start progressing spend the money on some of those books and put the time and energy into it.

     

    Three years with no measurable improvement means that the path that you're on now is ineffective and wasteful.

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