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Posts posted by m700
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If you are set on the 1100 look at the evo as well. It will give you the chance to powdercheck/bulletfeed/size/crimp
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Originally I handled cases so much i would always spot issues. Off the ground, brass size seperator, out of seperator, into wet cleaner, into seperator, into dehydrator, out of dehydrator, handfulls into plastic bag for lube, into collator(cant really see this), down tube on press, out of tray into rag to wipe some lube off, into the ammo storage box, into range bag, and into magazines. Ive pulled brass from every point in those listed steps but never spent time directly inspecting. I will only case gauge when setting up press or if ammo is going to competition.
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Ordered FFB shellplate as the fw were out of stock. also ordered their 223 plunger
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5 hours ago, HesedTech said:
Sounds like possibly shell plate wobble with 223.
Automation adds a bunch of things one would never notice when pulling the handle.
Here's some ideas for you.
Make sure you have the shell plate indexing correctly set. If the centering rods on the head are moving the shell plate into position after the plate advances, then your index needs adjusting.
Decapping die - FWArms self-centering?
FWArms self-centering swage hold down die?
Did you do the wire " tie fix" between stations to prevent wobble?
These work great from FWA: F.W. Arms™ DILLON 1050/1100/CP2000 #3 STATION TAB SET - FW Arms
FW Arms, TNT, or FFB shell plate? These run a bit better than the Dillon one.
Did you correctly set the shell plate on the press?
Hope these help.
Thank you for this.
I am running mighty armory decap
Mighty armory self centering swage hold
Didnt do the tie wire
stock shellplate.
Ordering fw decap/tab set but their #3 is out of stock.
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Still having issues. This press ran fine previous to automating.
I was fighting torque issues got it running fine past that. Then every 3rd or 4th round through the decap pin on decap die would miss the case mouth and snap the pin. I got past that and got it running 50-60 rounds then it would jam on the extractor bar. Replaced that with Fast and friendly extractor. Now the decap pin is missing again. I bought an upgraded pawl Im going to install that and play with timing.
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I think i prefer loading on a 1050/1100 or a 650/750. But I started on a 550 then added 650 then replaced 650 with 1100. But all along I held onto the 550. It is nice having a very fast to swap system that is capable of loading anything(essentially) at a low cost of caliber change. It is also very easy to learn on. The manual rotation of the shell plate makes it easy to control everything that happens. It is slower and more hands on but to start it will provide a solid start.
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On 3/1/2024 at 12:09 PM, Maximis228 said:
Recent results from a batch of 20,000 9 minor. I’m blaming this on some really bad brass that is multi fired 9 major. Tons of cracked cases were caught during processing but clearly not enough.
My processing dies are around the 250k range or so.
how long do carbide dies last? I’ve heard anywhere from 100,000 - 1,000,000. I would imagine rollsizing helps extend life as well as using Multiple sizing dies when processing (Dillon and EGW U).
That is great results in my opinion Im not sure any of the following would pay off. The loss of 50 primers over 20,000 wouldnt be worth the cost of time/money to do better.
-either tuning your autofiller or swiching to PAL style may help with primers
-reduced speed can help with the crushed(4 isnt bad though)
-using new brass(or at least 1 regular fire) will eliminate cracks
-roll sizing would probably eliminate bulge for gauging
I would decap and save the 8 upside down primers, the ones right side up I find the decap pin destorts the primer so just dump case after bullet and powder recovered.
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I bought a case of 5k and I cant get them to run in anything but 2011's. 4 different sigs will fire second strike only. Only loaded 200 to test. but loaded 2k in tubes
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There is no way without combining seat and crimp. I setup a camera that looks in the case at the seating station. It is pretty effective.
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For $600 you can get a new 550 press in one of the calibers and reload with some speed. caliber swaps from there are 100 or less.
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I would guess that was an imperfection in the stock. I would expect that part to bend before it cracks.
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I sold my S2 because of this I was fed up with loading separately for a non primary gun. The best answer is to have barrel rechambered so that it likes everything you already make for other guns. Off hand I think I was loading 1.08" for the CZ. It was very easy to tell that apart from the rest of the ammo I make
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On 1/20/2024 at 7:25 PM, sharko said:
I just got a bunch of the Armanov powder funnel quick releases, nice when you finish and dump the powder.
I just got some now that im on 1100. I always thought it was just as easy to remove the toolhead and dump it but now that I have them I should have bought them when I was on 650.
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5 hours ago, ubet said:
I just got an rt1500 I wished I would have waited to trim my lapua 308win brass until I figured it out a little more with 223. But I de primed in station 1, and 4 I fl sized with the trim die and trimmed. I would much rather size then trim as well. It seems like their is to much going on in that one stage.
I pulled my deprime die yesterday and moved full length size to 1(dillon calls it 2). kept swage backer at 2, trim at 6
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I usually sit and load 16 tubes with primer pro.
If your having issues try changing battery.
Make sure they are coming single file at the mouth of the entrance to the drop. If they are double at this point the primers dont like to drop.
The angle should keep single file moving quick which will make them drop square thus not jamming.
When I first got it I took an over sized drill bit and chamfered the opening just slightly to remove any burr
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I make the brass as dry as possible before thowing in dehydrators. Also you cant crowd the brass in dehydrators, if they are they wont fully dry. I have 3 dehydrators 1 is not as warm so it will run 3-4 hours on 223 2-3 on pistol. The other 2 run 2 hours
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I had it for about a year before running the M7. I kinda figured out that with any mishap recalibrate.
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Thanks for the link. I did figure out this morning that Im losing calibration and not returning high enough to get the shell plate to fully spin. Im going to update firmware and retry
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4 hours ago, SnipTheDog said:
Did the chute also for finished rounds.
Screen for separating bullets and powder . Useful when using the kinetic hammer.
45ACP hundo box for separating large and small primers sizes. Still need to try it out.
did another one of the screens for a mason jar for the same purpose
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Poke a hole in the side a little below where you believe it was to begin with. Then toss what comes out.
If the load data were close to identical I may try mixing the whole jug loading it on the light end for plinking but probably not worth it. Drain the top inch or so and move on
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The ball needs to stay as the shell pate is not on a motor it is pushed to index and the ball locks it into where it needs to go
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Im still not up and runnign from my black friday purchase. I figured 223 case prep was an easy place to start due to not needing as many sensors setup but I think I was wrong torque sense got me. I have the following Mighty armory dies setup Deprime, Swage hold down, Sizing, and Dillon trim die with rt1200. I set up each die individually with 1 case on shell plate but i ran into the issue that I kept hitting torque sense even upping max to 12. I adjusted the trim die up a little bit and was Ok for 50 cases or so then it started again. I reset the dies again and it seems to be ok but now the shell plate is only turning 60% and the allignment pin is hitting the shell plate. How do I adjust this?
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I printed the following
screens for powder measures.(stopped a brass shaving and a small piece of paper so far.
Handles for case feeder plates
camera mounts
Tool head stands
Tablet holder for music
primer tube holder
Mark 7 style chute for finished rounds
Beginner’s Setup for Reloading
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
Im sorry make that the apex10