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Blockader

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    Game of Thrones (HBO)

    in Books, Movies, TV & Music

    Posted

    I am primarily a fan of the books, I have never thought the show even remotely lived up to them. But in my opinion last night's episode was the biggest let down yet. There was nothing creative or interesting or unique. Oh, Arya leaped out of nowhere and stabbed the Night King...wow that's boring. She should have killed Bran and wore his face and then effed up ol' Whitey. 

     

    Their battle plan was straight up stupid, they all knew their own slain would be reanimated. And the first time they said "let's put the weak folk in the crypts with the corpses it was obvious what would happen. Frankly, At this point I think Cersei deserves to keep the Throne!

     

    I just hope if the books ever get finished they will be better. I highly recommend them over the show to anyone who still reads. 

    1301 gen1?

    in Shotgun - Technical

    Posted

    My gen 2 1301 was close to $1200, and that's the cheapest I could find. So almost double the cost of the used one you are looking at. 

     

    If you get to the point in 3-gun where the v1 is what's holding you back that will frankly be an awesome problem to have. 

     

    The most important thing with 3gun, in my NOT an expert opinion, is just to get started. 

     

     

    M1 Garand Project Complete (Pic Heavy)

    in General Gunsmithing

    Posted · Edited by Blockader

    I have been working on this rifle project since late Fall and finally finished today.


    This M1 Garand was made by Winchester in January of 1944, 6 months prior to D-Day. It has very little pitting (possibly indicating use in Europe rather than the tropics) but has consider "pistol rash" on the left side of the receiver from rubbing against the butt of a holstered handgun when slung on the shoulder. It was rebarreled at Springfield Armory in October 1963. I purchased it at The CMP Marksmanship Park where it was the lone Service Grade Winchester when I visited.

     

    It took 6 months to track down a rare mostly-carved Garand stock in Flame figured Maple that I could final fit and finish with the same traditional methods used when building flintlock blackpowder longrifles.

    The only handguards I could find had already had some stain attempts applied, and since I used historical iron nitrate reagent to color and accentuate the curl/flame (chatoyance is the technical term) it was a challenge to make them match the stock.
     

    But it took very little wood removal to get the stock to fit, though it is very tight. The operating rod was rubbing a bit and I had to fit the rear trigger guard so it could fully seat and lock the receiver into place. The maple carved easily so I reckon it is likely Red Maple rather than Sugar Maple. 

     

    I sanded the stock from 80 up to 600 grit, with whiskering at the end, then treated it with a tannic acid solution. After drying, I treated it with Iron Nitrate which reacts with the tannins and turns very dark. When it is exposed to high heat it then blushed to a warm brown color. Because of the structure of the curly maple the color is more permenant in the open celled curl than in the closed cell wood next to it. So when it is rubbed back the chatoyance really pops.

     

    I generally use traditional oil finishes but choose to try Permalyn, a polymerized oil, for this one. I did not like it. But after lots of extra rubbing and some required "antiquing" in spots, it came out very fine.

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    nitrate.JPG

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    Starting Spinner

    in Rifle & Shotgun - Technique

    Posted

    What I was really hoping to get at with this topic was the science and practicality of starting with top versus bottom. That is, the top is a smaller i.e. lighter target and is thus affected more by the round impact than the larger lower plate. Except that the heavier lower target is attached on the end of a "lever" to the lighter upper target so how does that affect the efficacy of shooting the top first? If I owned a spinner I would set a test up to measure the angle of deflection following impact in dead center of each plate. Maybe they are the same, since the two plates are joined, I am not schooled on physics enough to know. If they are the same then starting on the bottom makes more sense since it is larger target. There are other factors as well.

     

    With a shotgun, for example, it would seem to me that starting on the lower plate is clearly advantageous, since there is more surface area meaning more of the pattern will impact that plate as opposed to the top.

     

    To be clear, my spinner performance is hardly the area I most need to focus on, I just thought it might be interesting to dissect here.

    Alliant Sport Pistol Load Data

    in 9mm/38 Caliber

    Posted

    6 minutes ago, fbzero said:

     

    I find it to be better in some ways and worse in some ways, aside from just price.  It meters better, is cheaper, and seems to smoke less to me.  I think that N320 seems to be cleaner, may have a slight edge in accuracy, and also makes less of a mess on my press while loading.  My view is that they are probably relatively equal, but one is half the price...

     

    I agree it is not quite as clean, at least with my light loads, but is good enough. It makes a mess on my press too. Still, cost is a big factor for me so I'm sticking with it.

    Ricochet Question

    in Steel Challenge

    Posted

    Angling the plate down a bit directs more of the splatter downward but some definitely travels in all 360 degrees. The 8 foot side berms of my personal home range gets chewed up maybe 20% as much as the ground beneath the angled plates. 

     

    I think more attention needs to be paid to the type of eyes people are wearing to shoot matches with steel plates. I see a lot of glasses that offer protect from the front, but a shooter spends only a small fragment of time actually facing the targets shooting. Most of the time you are looking down loading mags or 180 degrees to the plates talking etc, and a clear path to the eye is the last thing you want in those positions. 

     

    I also see a good many shooters using glasses that probably would not stop a direct frontal hit from a decent sized fragment coming back from a close plate. Maybe I am extra sensitive because my dad lost an eye to college baseball and my uncle to a BB, but I have been hit by a good bit of material, at home and at matches. Took a direct ricochet to the head from a cast .45 reload (just the bullet base bounced back). It was winter so it just glanced off my thick wool cap but it still hurt. And that was at 15 yards. My Revolution glasses would have stopped it (I hope) but maybe not some walmart specials. 

     

    All that being said, being so cautious as to torpedo the sport is no bueno. We could just stay inside and knit afterall. Get the right eye gear and accept that even knitters get poked on occasion. 

    Getting ducks in a row for starting 3 gun this spring

    in Multi-gun Gear & Accessories

    Posted · Edited by Blockader

    I use an 11 round tube but the front 2.75" is occupied by a lead rod, so effectively its 10 rounds. I load two at the beep instead of 4 to get up to max capacity (If needed) and that has worked fine. When THAT is the thing that is holding me back I will be very happy to bump up tube size haha. Also, it somewhat depends on the characteristics of the specific 3-gun matches you are going to be shooting. 

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