[Squib slugging a barrel - pros and cons]

2 hours ago, zzt said:

FS, as Beef said, pure lead works the best.  If you use hard cast, just remember your actual bore diameter will be a tad less than measured.  The reason is because the barrel bulges when hard projectiles are fired.  When you shoot a .356 hollow point through a .355 bore, the bore is still .355 afterward, and the bullet is still .356"  The barrel bulges as the bullet pass and returns when it has passed.  

 

Your problem with hard cast will come if you have a big bore.  There are 9mm barrels out there with .357/.358 bores.  A hard cast slug won't help you if that is the case.  I order my slugs from Dardas Bullets.  The are pure lead round oversize balls.  If memory serves they are 3 for a buck.  Drop one in and tap through using a bore sized dowel and a small hammer.  No matter how large your bore, these ball will measure it.  If you are not sure of your measurements, you can send them back to Dardas.  He will accurately measure them for you.

that's very interesting. thanks for sharing the bulge.

[Squib slugging a barrel - pros and cons]

So I recently got some 125 blue bullets. Id heard that they were a bit undersized at .355 and accuracy reports were varied. I've slugged rifle barrels before, but not slugged my CZ barrel. So... I decided to try something new and hopefully easier. I've never heard of anyone else doing this and looking for opinions on why or why not to do it this way.

 

With no powder on the bench, and only this single bullet, I sized and primed a case and seated the bullet, intentionally creating a squib. Took this squib round directly to the gun and then fired it outside in safe direction and got the expected puff, removed the barrel and pounded it out. There was my slug - it had definite markings for the rifling - ready to measure. It was dark and not well lit so I had a tough time getting calipers in the right spots on the lands and grooves but from what I could tell it was swaged down by the barrel a bit on both the lands and grooves.

 

cons - The only con I can see with this method is that the throat or leade may be shot out and a little bigger than the muzzle of the barrel.

 

pro - much easier than slugging the entire barrel. you slug the barrel with the actual bullet you will be using, not some super soft lead that may have some spring back and not give proper measurements.

[Magwell for Phantom? What about DIY mag wells?]

found a 3d print magwell for the czsp-01. you could use that as a starting point. I don't have a 3d printer so I'm going to try making one from a slab of brass - we'll see how that goes. good luck.

[Brass vs. aluminum mag well - CZ limited]

well, event the aluminum was 100$ so, I ordered a slab of brass stock, we will see how it goes...

I also did find a 3d print version on thingyverse. I might try that first.

[Brass vs. aluminum mag well - CZ limited]

Hey guys, new here. I shoot limited minor local matches with cz75B (I know), but figure this is the best place, please feel free to move if needed.

 

I'm wanting to add a magwell and have seen some aluminum ones for pretty cheap and then some brass ones from europe for $$$. I'm more of a function vs form kind of guy, is the weight of the brass an advantage over aluminum? I can see the usefulness of heavy brass baseplates, but I'm not 100% sold on the magwell being heavy as an advantage. but then again, I'm a newb.

 

thx.

[650xl spent primers making a mess]

First post - lurker no longer.

 

Call me cheap but these work great.

 

Spent primer chute - 44 mag (rimmed case) with the primer/case head drilled/honed out in place of the tray (case mouth pointed to the floor). Then PVC tube over the mouth of the case, run it to your 20. oz bottle or whatever.

 

Live primer chute - 12 gauge shell, cut a vertical slit down to the brass, then trim it down a bit (so that the lever just barely clears it). Slide it over the spent primer chute and it will catch up to about 50 or 60 before overflow.

 

Can provide pics if needed.