bimmer1980
-
Posts
370 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by bimmer1980
-
-
On 4/29/2023 at 5:12 PM, Polymer said:
Does the extractor hold empty case with enough tension? Did you test?
Yes, i tested it. I think so. Can i do something to the extractor to make it better? I already polished it. It throws the brass in all directions. Pretty strange.
Oh, and i had a level 3 ipsc match last weekend. The gun didn´t feed my geco 154gr flathead ammo. Had 6 malfuctions on a 12 sec. stage... made it in 37 sec. Lost 70 Points. The bullets stuck on the loading ramp (polished) or right on the way into the chamber (polished) at 45 degree. Starting to hate this gun. Cost me a good 3rd place.
-
On 4/20/2023 at 2:40 PM, goshimu said:
Sounds like the over travel screw is in a little too far.
It was grinding even without the overtravel screw. It´s working now, with the new trigger bar. But the overtravel screw has to just barely touch.
Only problem i have, are stovepipes. 1 in about 200 rounds. Extractor is new and polished, spring is the extra power atm.
It´s a newer, stroked Largeframe.
-
On 4/5/2023 at 7:24 PM, HesedTech said:
What is "sear scratching?"
When the slide goes all the way back the hammer goes further than the engagement point (the reason hammer spring tuning is important in the TF) and then comes forward to engage the sear. The sear spring keeps the sear engaged with the hammer hooks. When the trigger is pulled the bar pushes up the sear and releases the hammer. Pretty simple.
These aren't very complicated little machines, but the more you hack away and modify the more problems are created.
Did you tune the length of the hammer spring yet?
The disconnector/interrupter's whole job is trigger and hammer movement with DA and restricting the reset distance of SA.
During the DA pull the hammer never goes far enough back to engage the sear. What happens is the disconnector/interrupter's foot rides up an angle until its reaches the point where it disengages from the bar and releases/drops the hammer.
The width of the the foot affects the SA trigger reset. Too wide and the trigger will not reset and to thin will have a very long reset. Remove it and you have a SA only pistol. Reset length and distance is then determined by trigger geometry and adjustment screws.
From what you are writing, go find a smith who knows Tanfoglios or CZs.
Hammer is going back all the way, touching the beavertail. Didn´t do anything to the spring.
When i pulled the trigger and hold it back and release the hammer forward with my other hand, the sear was touching the hammer´s hooks. (grinding? dragging?)
-
4 hours ago, Polymer said:
Switch back to stock interruptor to see if there is a difference.
Does single action break the same with slide on versus off?
Is there enough tension on case with the extractor as seen on this video.
No need for buffer. Make sure you have Henning or xtreme guide rod.
I threw the buffer out after i learned that it doesn´t touch anything. (thanks Ted!) Maybe it even leads to to less slide movement. I have the xtreme guide rod installed. I´ll do the extractor test and test the stock interruptor.
-
New trigger bar is installed. Did help a bit, but not very much. I can use the triggerstop screw now but only a tiny bit before the sear is scratching again. I´d say it´s no more than a few thenth of a milimeter. 3/4 of a turn from not contacting the frame to sear scratching at the hammer´s hooks.
Does the interruptor have any influence on the single action.
Gun is extracting a bit better, but the brass is flying in all directions. Still had 1 failure to eject the last training (250 rounds).
Next problem is, the recoil buffer´s get destroyed within one training session. They break and knot around the recoil spring wich jams the slide.
Gun has all xtreme parts inside now. except the sear housing.
-
On 3/24/2023 at 9:22 PM, HesedTech said:
Bad move. That shouldn’t have been the issue. Don’t hack away on you gun.
Had to shoot a class this weekend and didn´t want to destroy sear and/or hammer. That was the fastest fix.
-
On 3/24/2023 at 6:34 PM, Polymer said:
Did you make sure the hammer spring/hammer spring pocket isn't the issue? The hammer for sure has full movement backwards?
Make sure your recoil spring is suited for the ammo power you're shooting and get extra power extractor spring.
Yes, trigger spring issn´t the problem. Recoil spring is a 10lb with factory 124gr. Extra power extractor spring is installed, and a new extractor wich i polished. Have to test on thursday.
-
Hi Guys, i filed a thenth from the back of the trigger. That was enough to make the sear move freely. I will order a new Trigger bar. Pretty sure mine is out of spec. Otherwise it doesn´t make sense.
Installed the extended firing pin block. After testing i found out, it didn´t work correctly with the stock block. Gun shoots good, but sometimes it produces strange malfunctions. It pinches brass in the ejection window. Is that due to a weak extractor spring?
-
10 minutes ago, Polymer said:
With slide off, push the upper sear leg that contacts the firing pin safety down with your finger to make sure sear does lift up all the way.
You didn't touch the lower sear leg when fitting safety correct?
I have had 2 instances where trigger bar is out of spec.
I´ll try that.
I didn´t touch the lower leg.
Do i need to install the extended firing pin safety btw ? I didn´t install it. I think it works.
-
8 minutes ago, Polymer said:
Pull back manually the hammer with your thumb. If the back of the hammer hits the frame/travels all the way, the hammer spring/spring pocket is fine.
It's most likely the trigger bar is worn where it contacts the lower sear leg that lifts the sear during single action. Check that area and also check lower sear leg.
Thanks !
The gun is 2 weeks old. Sear is new (yesterday). Have to get a new triggerbar i guess...
-
8 hours ago, Redhemi said:
What gun, which trigger and which interrupter? Seeing two different interrupters on Patriots website maybe you have the wrong one?
All Tanfo xtreme parts. Stock 2 optic.
An experienced tanfo shooter told me, it should be due to tolerances with the trigger bars. Mine doesn´t engage the sear correctly because it´s to thin at the contact point.
I´ll try a shorter hammer spring first.
-
Hi guys!
I just installed the some xtreme parts.
Sear
Titan Hammer
Interruptor
Trigger
DA and SA are working. Safety is working after fitting the sear, but i can´t pull the trigger far enough back (it´s touching the frame) to lift the sear enough to completly clear the hammer´s hooks. Triggerstop issn´t touching. It´s the Trigger itself touching the frame.
Do i have to fit something to do not round the hooks of the hammer over time or make the trigger engage earlier (more forward) ?
Regards
Jan
-
4 hours ago, Joe4d said:
Tape thing never worked for me,, all I ever saw was a dot on the back side of the tape... just in case others think they were the only one.
That´s the deal. If you are not target focus you see black and a dot, but no target.
-
On 10/19/2022 at 4:03 PM, HOGRIDER said:This guy says "SIG said it was a defective firing pin return spring." The P320 has a striker reset spring, which is irrelevant to his claimed scenario. I call b.s.
My striker reset spring is broken all the time. (the tiny small one in the striker) I´m pretty sure that happens to all p320´s pretty often.
Mine doesn´t fire by itself.
-
On 8/25/2022 at 4:58 AM, Cnickolas said:
Thank you. Which springs do you recommend?
I´d go with the Greyguns competition sear springs and the "snappy trigger return spring". You can get snappy trigger return springs from Armory Craft and i think Greyguns do put them in some kits meanwhile.
-
13 hours ago, Cnickolas said:
Running the gray gun comp flat trigger however had too soft of a reset which caused a double click on the reset. If I tried to pull trigger on first click; dead trigger. Swapped springs back to factory. Problem solved.
you can buy snappy reset trigger springs. pretty nice with the greyguns kit. I like the adjustable gg trigger better over the non adjustable.
-
16 hours ago, tt350z said:
Yes, I had to completely disassemble the FCU to clamp down on the back rails. Front rails can be pressed down without disassembly.Perfect, thanks a lot !
-
On 8/11/2022 at 12:59 AM, TheChef1 said:
So I got my first shadow 2 right when they first came out (2016? 17?) I've loved it ever since lots of cajun parts and modified lok grips and I felt for years like it was the best production pistol available. Fast forward to about 6 months ago I wanted to dabble in CO as no one seems to shoot production anymore. I was going to get another slide milled but found a ridiculous deal on an S2 OR with an SRO so I just bought that. Spent a bunch of money on getting mags setup more cajun parts lok brass grips...
To me, my P320 xfive handles easier with the light grip than with the heavy txg grip. Draws, manipulations, transitions etc. just need less muscle. I also can´t find a huge difference in recoil or let´s say muzzle climb or softness when shooting stiff loaded factory ammo.
When i´m shooting soft ammo, that´s when the heavy grip starts to show an advantage in my eyes. I don´t know why.
-
On 5/25/2022 at 4:01 AM, tt350z said:
The vice jaws pressed on the top of the rails and bottom of the FCU. The rails did spread a little bit as it was pressed down since its an unsupported U-shape. I did have to spread my front rail more than the rear rails as it was sloppier. I just filed/polished the side of the rails until the slide cycled smoothly. Now I have very minimal vertical movement and basically zero lateral movement.
I was just shooting factory 115g Blazer Brass. 124g Prvi grouped about the same. Didn't notice a change in group size while shooting standing unsupported except for snappier recoil.
How did you clamp the rear rails? Somehow i find that the nose getting into the grip on the rear makes it hard to press the rear rails down correctly.
-
On 5/9/2022 at 5:36 AM, CurlyShuffle said:
Hello,
I noticed that the Grayguns TXG grip has an extra weight in the back of the grip that fills in the half-moon shaped area at the back of the grip. Is that weight removable?
It should be a normal sig txg grip, just laser sculpted.. You can push&pull it out.
-
Hey Guys!
The TXG Grip in large is now available ! They already shipped some to Germany, so i ordered one.
Pretty sure the small one will follow soon.
-
On 10/22/2021 at 3:08 PM, lgh said:
Eric Grauffel also said one reason he uses that grip is because there is less fatigue on long days.
Grauffel´s finger doesn´t do anything. He uses a push & pull grip, wich comes from the shoulders. One´s pushing one´s pulling, just a little bit.
Or one is holding, one is pushing or pulling.
If you use a "normal" clamping grip with your support hand, you loose one finger and with that a lot of clamping force if you doesn´t use the finger to create leverage somehow.
After all i think, there is just one important "thing" that has to be achieved. None of your hands should slip, so they can work as a unit. To make your supporthand not slip, when gripping your gun from the side, while it´s recoiling violently up&down and back, you need a lot of force and/or a lot of stickieness. Meanwhile your shooting hand doesn´t need much force, because it´s on the regular grip, gripping front to back. You can hold the gun super soft, without coming of the grip. That´s where the wrist´s come into play, but thats a different story.
-
17 hours ago, ddc said:
I think that is pretty darn good. I might be able to do that at 50 feet, lol...
Shot from a sandbag, so not my achievement
It shows that the gun itself is pretty accurate, or at least more accurate than i thought.
-
I tried 5 Shots at 50 Meters from a sandbag with the old xfive with factory ammo at a ipsc mini target.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CSOhuIdMnGu/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
That´s the deal. If you are not target focus you see black and a dot, but no target.
It shows that the gun itself is pretty accurate, or at least more accurate than i thought.
Titan hammer sliding on the sear.
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Posted
Thanks m8 !