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Jimmy64

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About Jimmy64

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    James Ruggiri
  1. Hi,

    I saw on one of your posts that you converted a 75 Compact to sao.

    I have a compact that I've already installed CGW Reach Reduction Kit, Short Reset Kit, Reduced Power Trigger Return Spring, and CZC Race Hammer. I repaired my manual safety, which didn't work after the race hammer install, by modifying the stock sear instead of using CGW adjustable sear. The trigger is the modified version with overtravel and reset adjustment set screws that came in CGW kit.

    If I wanted to convert to sao at this point, what would I need to do, and would I need to replace any of the new parts I just installed?

    Thanks, Jimmy 

    1. M1A4ME

      M1A4ME

      I'm not a gunsmith, just someone who like to work on stuff.  So, I'm not sure (100%) about what you've done with yours.

       

      I thought I could find a link to a thread in the CZ Forum with pictures/parts list and explanation and I've just spent the last 15 or 20 minutes looking and didn't find it.

       

      I don't know if the parts you already installed will work with a SAO conversion or not.

       

      I bought/installed a straight single action trigger, a reduced power trigger return spring, a 15 lb. hammer spring, a reduced power firing pin block spring, a reduced power firing pin return spring, a CGW firing pin retaining pin, a CGW (Cajun Gun Works) floating trigger pin, a CGW race hammer and adjustable sear.

       

      You won't need the disconnector.  I left mine on the old hammer.  Sounds like you might have to remove yours from the hammer.  Not sure how well you'll like the current trigger in SAO mode.  But you can try it and see if you want to keep it or change it to a standard SA style trigger.

       

      On this one I ran into an issue with the SA trigger hitting the frame (inside and in front of the trigger) and not allowing enough forward movement to reset the sear/trigger bar.  Had to pull the trigger out and remove a small amount of metal from the front where it was hitting the frame.

       

      I guess that's why they recommend parts be installed by a gunsmith.

       

      Sometimes it's as easy as replacing the parts.  Sometimes you run into issues.  Good luck with yours.

       

       

    2. Jimmy64

      Jimmy64

      So it sounds as if I've already put the parts in that you did in yours, including the floating trigger pin. The difference is I kept the stock sear and made it work, and I used CZCustoms hammer.

      Let's say the trigger won't work, as I suspect it won't. The other question is, what goes in place of the disconnecter, a spacer? Does Cajun sell it? I realize you're not a gunsmith, I'm not either. Just some general info is all I'm looking for. 

      Thanks for the help this far. Jimmy

    3. M1A4ME

      M1A4ME

      For SAO you don't need the disconnector.  Just remove it and the pin that holds it on the front of the hammer.

       

      I believe I've heard of some people leaving the disconnector in there, but modifying it so that the pistol only works in single action, but I don't know the details of this.  I think it's something stumbled on by someone and the belief is that it helps in some way to make the action smoother/more predictable??  I'm not sure, it's just something someone hinted at in a thread awhile back (don't remember if it was here or on the CZ Forum).

       

      The reason I used the adjustable sear was due to my previous experience when modifying a CZ 75 Compact to look/function like a CZ 85 (ambidextrous thumb safeties and slide release levers.)  i also installed a (Pre B like) spurred hammer, to make it look more like a Pre CZ 85 (Compact).  I modified the safety (left side, cam on the safety shaft that moves under the forward arm on the sear to prevent firing) and it honestly/no kidding took me twenty four attempts at removal, stoning metal off the cam surface, installation, testing, and then doing it again till I got just the right amount of metal off the safety/cam to make the safety work correctly with that new hammer.  The adjustable sear just seemed like a much easier route to me after that first experience.

       

      One other thing that I still don't understand (and no one on the CZ Forum gave me an explanation for) was about the trigger bar lifting spring.

       

      After the install was done, the single action trigger pull was about 2&1/2 lbs.  Great.  But I was having that failure to fire problem (trigger interference with the frame I spoke about in the first note) so I was looking deeper.  I found the screw that hold the trigger bar lifting spring and the magazine release spring in place was loose from the factory.  I tightened it down and then had problems with one leg of the trigger bar lifting spring coming out of the groove on the bottom of trigger bar and dragging/pinching between the frame and the trigger bar.  So, I had to take care of that.  I kept working at getting the grooves deeper and getting the spring legs evenly spaced/bent and when I got all that working right, the single action trigger pull had gone up to 3&1/4 lbs.  A couple people commented that it was interesting, but either no one had seen this before or it's a secret to action tuning that people in the know didn't want to explain.  If it's a secret people use when tuning pistols for business, I can understand keeping an "edge" is important.

  2. Jimmy64

    CZ Tuning 101 with Professor Atlas

    Hi all, love this thread. Recently bought a 75Compact, and bought and installed myself replacement parts from Cajun Gun. This thread with photos helped a lot, so thanks for that. My question is, what thread pitch does the trigger reset adjustment set screw have? I'm talking about the 85C trigger that came in the reach reduction kit. I decided to shoot the gun before putting loctite on them to be sure all was good, and it walked out. My fault. Anyway, need thread pitch and length so I can replace it, if anyone knows. Thanks, Jim
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