M1A4ME
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Posts posted by M1A4ME
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Had the same issue with my new RCBS 9MM carbide resizing die and blazer 9MM brass. The little angle grind from tip to one side fixed it.
No idea why it only did it with Blazer brass. As someone else mentioned, my Lee carbide resizing 9MM die never had an issue with any brass brand.
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I just put one on the hobby belt sander this morning. Had one (may be one other one, gotta dig through them and see if I can find it) that would kind of drag going into the M31 and fed/locked the slide fine but wouldn't drop out. Same mag would not go into my nephews Compact .40 (I have no idea of the model number) mag well at all, part of the way in you feel/see the plastic grip trying to bulge out and then it just stopped.
I got out the calipers and found that one was between 0.030 and 0.045" thicker side to side than the others. Removed the floorplate, spring and follower and fired up the 1" bench top belt sander. That's some weird s#!t on those magazines. It seemed to melt more than sand away. No dust, no flakes, just transfer of melted plastic from one part of the magazine to the opposite side from initial belt contact. Stop sanding and hit it with my pocket knife and most of it wasn't even stuck to the magazine, just at the edge where it "rolled over". Worked on both sides, kept checking to see when it inserted without being forced. Put the follower, spring and floor plate back in/on it and it ejects from the mag. well slicker than greased owl manure.
The fact that it would insert (sticky/draggy but still insert and lock) into my M31 but not into that Compact tells me it's not just magazines that can be different but the Glock mag wells/frames came have different internal dimensions.
Compensate, adjust, overcome. Make it work, one way or the other.
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Yeah, that's the decocker model.
You need to check out the Cajun Gun Works web site. They have a lot of stuff for the decocker model CZ75's. CZ Custom probably does, to.
Stuff to make the trigger pull better, slick it up.
I did a search for P01 on the CZ Custom web site and it shows all kinds of stuff not specific for the P01, so you'll have to be more careful about ordering parts if you go that route.
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The CZ shown in that picture is a (up to now) limited production P01.
For years the P01's were aluminum framed decocker pistols. No SAO possible.
The, CZ sold (in the US) a limited number of CZ75 Compacts that looked like P01 frames but with ambidextrous safeties and steel frames instead of aluminum. Those could be converted to SAO with parts from CGW (for sure, I did one of mine) and I don't know if CZ Custom sells similar parts or not.
Then CZ sold (in the US) a limited number of CZP01's with ambidextrous safeties (I'm not sure if they had steel or aluminum frames, I didn't buy one as I have two of the steel framed P01 looking pistols marked CZ75 Compact on the slide.)
CZ is selling the newer P01 Omega pistols in the US (for a couple years now) but they don't have the right internal parts to use the same pieces a standard CZ75 action would use to convert it to SAO. Those can be set up with decockers (come from the factory with those installed) or you can remove those and install safeties.
Picture of the P01 looking Compact I converted to SAO. Some people nicknamed them SP01 Compacts but that's not stamped on the frame, it just sort of separates them from the standard CZ75 Compacts when you talk about them.
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Consistency is important. Why? If your eye isn't in the same spot behind the rear sight/optic then the bullet will hit a different spot on the target.
When I shoot an AR I have my nose on the charging handle. 9MM, .223, .308 (yeah, the GII seems to kick less than my .300 BO, for some reason).
Even at closer ranges, if your eye isn't consistently behind the rear sight the bullet impact will change. Is that important up close? Depends on the size of the target you're trying to hit. Is it 16" wide? Not an issue. Is it 2" wide? You'll have problems is you don't have a consistent cheek weld.
I found, for me, it's not as bad on a single target. But if there are multiple targets at varying ranges and spread across left to right, as I move from target to target it's important (at longer distances (even on smaller targets up close.)
My first Appleseed I took my M1A. Twenty-five meters. I'll never forget the instructor walking by, looking at the targets, turning to me and saying, "Hey, nice groups. Any idea why they aren't where you want them to be?" He didn't tell me, either. Got it figured out later. Cheek weld. M1A, standard style of scope mount, no riser on the stock to help with a consistent cheek weld. As we moved left to right across those little targets my groups would be nice tight groups, but an inch or so left/right of where I had the cross hairs.
Consistency is important.
If you don't want your nose on the charging handle find something else to install/tape/attach (in some manner) to the stock. Temporarily (till I got the right scope mount) I've put a small square of skate board tape on a stock to get my cheek up against. Works on an almost non-recoiling AR15. I wouldn't want to depend on it for an M1 Garand/M1A, probably wouldn't have any skin left on my cheek after a few minutes.
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I've not tried this on my dies/press, etc. in the garage but it works great on blued pistol magazines - car wax.
I sweat like a pig in the summer (or winter depending on how hard I'm working). My P01 magazines (single 16 round magazine carried in a kydex IWB pouch at about 8 to 9 o'clock) come out of the mag. pouch with sweat beaded up all over them, like I'd held it under the shower. I was worried about them rusting, even though I dried it off every time and wiped it with an oily rag regularly.
One of the guys on the CZ Forum had mentioned that he waxed his pistol magazines. Mostly for improved functioning and reducing dirt/dust pickup when dropped into the dirt/gravel during competitions.
I grabbed a bottle of nufinish (couldn't find my Mecguiers at the time). I disassembled about 5 magazines, used cotton balls and rubbing alcohol to clean/degrease them, let them dry a few minutes and put a coat of nufinish on the inside and outside. Let it haze over and wiped it off with a soft cotton cloth. Then I repeated the wax application/drying/buffing off for a second coat. I wiped off the spring with an oily cloth and put the magazines back together.
I've gone almost 2 months now, only drying the magazines off when I come inside, and they shine like new. Just drying them off with a paper towel or a dry cotton cloth removes the beaded up sweat and makes them shine like a new penny (blued penny). Not a sign of rust, in spite of the sweat, in a couple months.
I will be waxing up some more this winter.
I'll bet waxing the outsides of the dies, the painted and unpainted parts of the reloading press, the powder measure, scale, shell holders, etc. would do a lot to keep them from rusting. I'll need to do that some pretty warm day when I can sit outside on the bench and enjoy the sunshine/warmth of a winter day.
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So far, we've not broken a firing pin (three 9MM AR's in the family).
I believe, based on limited experience, some components are not compatible.
After reading about all the issues I bought a couple spares just to be sure we had them. My nephew immediately replaced the stock firing pin in his PSA bolt with the new Wilson Combat firing pin. I went ahead and replaced the firing pin my Faxon bolt with my new Wilson Combat firing pin. I took my wife shooting a few days later and my carbine was 100%. No change from the stock firing pin. But my nephew took his home with him and was going to show his dad how accurate it was and it failed, completely. Multiple attempts to get it to fire and it only had very small/slight marks on the primers.
When he got back down here we compared the firing pins and both the Wilson Combat pins are identical. Looks like they work in the Faxon bolt but not in the PSA bolt (bolt face thickness differences??). We compared the tips of the PSA factory firing pin to the Wilson Combat firing pin and the Wilson Combat pins have a visibly shorter tip. We put the Faxon firing pin in his PSA bolt and did a pencil test and got a launch, so it may be okay with the Faxon firing pin. Still need to get it to the range to be sure.
I bought a couple Taccom firing pins as more spares but have not yet tried them in my Faxon bolt or my PSA bolt (the 3rd AR 9MM).
Could be, with the length of the PSA firing pin and the Faxon bolt you might get perforated primers due to the longer tip length on the PSA firing pin. Maybe not, but I might have to try it to see.
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At one time the sentinels were part of Honor Guard Co. That one guy still has the tab on his shoulder. Honor Guard Co. was infantry. Not saying the armorers, commo sgt., etc. folks were, but they didn't wear blues and march jobs (ceremonies) either.
Times change. They were changing when I was there (Honor Guard Co., not a Tomb Guard). One of my room mates went to the Tomb and the other to the Continental Colors Team. I wonder where those guys are now?
I don't think the Tomb is actual part of Ft. Myer or a military installation. Didn't used to be. There was a gate between the Old Chapel and Arlington Cemetery that got closed/locked every night and opened every morning for funeral processions. The reason I say I don't think it was part of a military installation is because one of the guys in 1st went to the Tomb to "try out" and see if he could make it. One of my room mates (I'm pretty sure) and some of the other guys, climbed over the fence one night, snuck down the cemetery and ambushed him as he walked the mat. In no time at all the place was swarming with Park Police. Not MPs, Park Police. Seems like maybe the FBI, later, but as the guys were running for the wall between the cemetery and Ft. Myer they said they saw Park Police cars rolling up.
There were some crazy guys in Honor Guard Co. It could get pretty wild sometimes.
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Wow, what has happened that the NCO needs a loaded pistol with an extended magazine? Oh yeah, 9MM.
I don't remember whether the NCO's in the mid to late 70's carried a loaded 1911A1 or not. I do know that a lot of the military ceremonies I was in (1st Plt. Honor Guard. Co.) the NCO's carried a black plastic 1911A1 in the holster. Sometimes a sword, sometimes a pistol. No memory in my head (that I can recall) what difference caused the sword vs. the pistol (fake pistol).
I'll bet that's not the standard issue holster either. Both the 1911 and the Beretta used a holster with a flap to cover/protect/secure the pistol on the belt. That holster doesn't do any of those things. It looks like a holster made to allow quick/easy pulling of the pistol to shoot someone with it.
I thought something looked funny there with the NCO. No Infantry blue discs around his lapel insignia/badges and no infantry blued shoulder cord/rope. The Sentinel has the blue shoulder cord/rope. Does that mean the NCO is not infantry? If not, how is he in an infantry unit? The Old Guard used to be an Infantry unit. Or is he out of uniform? Weird.
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I get a kick out of reading threads on 1911 issues.
I figure some day, one of mine may have a problem and if I'm lucky I'll be able to remember what caused it and how to fix it from one of these threads. In 40 years of concealed carry, LEO (only a very few years earlier in my life), carrying a 1911 to the range to prove to myself and my nephew and youngest son that the lousy glock groups weren't my fault the only issues I've had is one magazine failure (welds broke on the floor plate and it dropped floorplate, spring, follower and rounds out the bottom), one failure to feed on the 1917 made Colt 1911 (swelled round where the bullet was seated at an angle), and the Series 70 Colt used to eat brass.
My Colt Combat Commander will feed one empty case after another out of the magazine, up the ramp and into the chamber, used to do it just to show people that wouldn't believe it.
Never replaced a part that broke. Did replace the safety on the 1917 made Colt right after I got it but that old fella has had a bunch of rounds through it before I got it.
No extractor issues, no broken springs, nothing I can think of to make me doubt the reliability of an old Colt 1911.
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12 hours ago, Bench said:
Well, that may be a direction to head if this one doesn't work out the way I want it to. Thanks for the report on the 09. Do you compete with it?
Nope. I just shoot for fun.
I got the P09 after getting a P07 and being impressed by it. Also, Joe Mustangs videos of shooting his at 100 and 200 yds. helped me make that decision to buy the 9MM P09. Mine has an RMR on it now but it shot nice groups prior to the RMR installation.
While sighting it in with the new RMR, 7 yds., wrists rested on the bag/bench. Three shots aimed at the center, made an adjustment, shot 3 more at the target co. logo on the bottom right of the target and it was "on" so I decided to empty the magazine at the logo and put four more in the same spot/hole. Seven yds. is not a long way but these groups look like the ones my K frame .38 specials shoot.
Link to one of Joe Mustang 99's P09 videos.
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The P09 can be a sweet pistol. Mine is the most accurate semi-auto center fire I've ever had/shot. Recoil is there, but you have to pay attention to it in order to feel it.
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Read my post. That's what I said. The NCO who comes out with the oncoming sentinel does not carry an M14, he/she carries a pistol. It was a 1911 (or a plastic copy - you can't tell in the holster). That NCO does not walk a shift on that mat with that pistol. He/she leaves with the sentinel who just finished their shift.
Never saw an officer do the changing of the guard/sentinel. When did that start? I just repeated most of my previous post.
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My Browning BDM feels so good in my hand. Really good. Lots of nice features.
But the trigger bites my trigger finger and it doesn't shoot in the same class as my XDM 3.8 or my CZ P07.
Liking it just doesn't make it work.
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Tomb Sentinels carrying handguns?
Since when??
They carry an M14.
The only one out there on the stone with the Sentinel is the NCO at changes of the guard and he carries a pistol. But he is not a sentinel and he does not stand guard with that pistol. He walks out with the oncoming sentinel, controls the changing of the sentinel and the leaves with the sentinel who has finished his shift and is going back downstairs to rest/relax and get his uniform/shoes ready for his next shift.
Something doesn't smell right here, when there is talk of the finish being weatherproof/weather resistant for the sentinels shift of duty outside.
And where is the thumb safety I see on the plastic framed M17"s? Or am I mistaken about what I thought was a thumb safety? If it's missing parts how can it be a GI issue weapon?
Now, some type of commemorative model? Sure. Doesn't mean a GI carries it or will carry it on duty.
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Sometimes I know "that" shot is low/left, right, etc. I see the front sight is "off" when the trigger breaks.
Sometimes I'm sure that shot is off, and it the hole is in the group with the rest of them. I've yet to figure out why a shot I just knew was off low/left is in the group.
Sometimes a shot I was sure would be in the group is off an inch or two from the group, and I have no idea why that one, that looked perfect when the trigger broke, is not in the group.
I know I'm not nearly as steady as I was 30 or 40 years ago, but dog gone it, sometimes the front sight is about as perfect as it get when the shot goes off and the bullet is out of the group.
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Wouldn't (shouldn't??) a level scope help you correct any cant issue you have from the way you hold the rifle?
I seem to naturally notice/level the cross hairs when looking through a scope.
And, AR15. Nice flat mag well bottom. Can you sit it on the edge of a level table, look through the scope and see if the cross hairs are level? If not, loosen the ring screws and twist the scope till the cross hairs are level.
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I absolutely loved the way they feel in my hand. Picked one up at a gun show and couldn't put it back down till I had to sign all the paperwork and pull out my credit card.
Got it home, took it to the range. Accuracy and trigger weren't good. Got it home. Trigger just died. Apex CAEK made it "sweet" again. Accuracy didn't get as good as I'd hoped and meanwhile I'd bought another one in .40 S&W along with a .357 SIG barrel. Tumbling bullets from the SIG barrel. Same ammo did fine (not the greatest groups in the world) out of my Glock M31 with no tumbling bullets.
About a year later the 9 got back into the dead trigger/failure to fire issues. Finally got it figured out after swapping the 9MM internals to the .40 frame and the .40 internals to the 9MM frame. Got it fixed, finally. Put 450 rounds through it over a couple of range trips and put it in the safe to stay. By then I had a P07 and had the reliability, accuracy the M&P's didn't give me and it still felt good in my hand.
I really did like the way those M&Ps fit my hand. They felt good. Just takes more than that.
I sometimes think about an M&P FS in .45 acp, then quickly remind myself of the previous issues and the "want" goes away.
I did recently buy one of the new M&P .380 Shield EZ pistols. Came home, got online to register it for the warranty purposes and found out they already had a recall out on them for safety issues. Sometimes I don't think I'm all that smart. Then I take a look at the girl I've been married to for 41 years and realize I've done a few things right.
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I bought a new one a couple months back. Went to the S&W website to register it for the warranty and found out they already had a recall on them for safety issues. Called S&W (the web site page to report your serial number see if yours was recalled was defective, too, so I had to call them) and the lady confirmed I needed to seen my brand new M&P back for the safety recall/warranty work. Got it back a couple weeks later, took it to the range, no issues. Took it to the range a couple weeks later and once again, no issues.
I have heard of issues where some of them eject the last round in the magazine along with the empty of the next to the last round. People say that issue is magazine follower related.
I've only shot Remington FMJ and hollow points through it so I can't say if any other brands/bullet weights work.
Reasonably accurate. About like the two M&P's I had a few years ago. Not what I'd want, not what I carry every day, but you can hit somebody in the chest with it at 10 yds. or so, every time.
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1 hour ago, IHAVEGAS said:
If they did then what would be the minimum safe distance between spectators & match officials & the shooter?
I was out shooting one day and someone dumped a bunch of old appliances on our "range".
Water heater tank - .230 grain FMJ would just bounce off of it. Made a dent. I expected it to go through, but nope. Shot it again, bounced off again. Even the .357 magnum snub nose Ruger would shoot through one side of the tank and raise a pimple on the other. The 240 grain .44 magnums would put holes in both sides and keep on trucking. We put a 5 gallon bucket of water on one of the shelves inside a refrigerator and the .44 shot clean through both sides of the refrigerator and the 5 gal. bucket of water.
Not sure what a pair of "shoe/foot guards" made out of water heater tank metal would weigh, but they might be good for exercising in. Like those ankle weights some people use.
Best thing is probably work on your "moves" with an unloaded pistol.
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If I shoot store bought, the Federal 115 grain FMJ brass cased ammo from wallyworld does pretty good in my carbine. I can get 100 round box for just under $18.
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If you use something that strips the lubricant/rust preventive oils off the metal then you need to use something else to put them back, or you'll get rust sooner or later.
I use carb or brake cleaner, it really doesn't take much, a can will do several frames (not sure how long anyone else goes before blowing out the frame, but I clean mine often enough I don't use much - then again, I use enough lube the crud stays mostly soft and blows out easily).
Afterwards I let it dry, inspect it, and use something like rem-oil - just to put lube/rust preventive oils back on the metal surfaces. I wipe off the excess, then lube with Mobil 1 for the real lubrication job.
I do remove the grips first. Carb/brake cleaners can harm wood finishes, some rubber/plastic parts. I've used brake cleaner on Glock, M&P and my P07/P09 frames and not had any issues.
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I haven't broken the extractor on my Faxon bolt but if I do I can just grab a spare AR15 piece out of the box of parts.
No issues with it so far.
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I use all of it.
I only have to swage the primer pocket once (out of how many reloadings??) to remove the crimp.
7.62X51 brass is thicker than .308 brass.
I've not seen 9MM NATO brass that was thicker than 9MM commercial brass.
There are some foreign ammo makers that do make thicker 9MM brass. When you look into the case you can see a ring/step so far down that would stop a bullet from being pushed back into the case if neck tension fails to hold it. That brass can cause problems when trying to use bullets heavier than 124 grain and can cause pressure issues with your load due to the smaller internal volume.
When I run across that "stepped" 9MM brass during cleaning/inspection steps I toss it in the scrap brass jug.
Odd primer strike. Primer reading gurus take a look
in 10mm/40 Caliber
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Hard to be 100% sure, but it looks like the pressure is forcing primer cup metal back into the firing pin hole in the breech face.
With a rifle that can be a sign of higher pressures or an enlarged firing pin hole in the bolt.
With a relatively low pressure pistol round???? Maybe the primer material on the "offending" primers is just thinner/softer than other primers. Or the pressure is actually higher than you think.