M1A4ME
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Posts posted by M1A4ME
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Mine is pretty old (mid 1930's). It was graded "poor" by the big gun store I bought it from. Pretty "brown" all over when I bought it. Some 0000 steel wool and 3n1 oil showed it was still pretty blue with only one spot of pitting (on the receiver, none anywhere else).
The checkering was pretty much worn off the stock/forend so I put a Ramline synthetic set on it. The I added the extended magazine tube/spring/cap to bring the total to 10 rounds.
It worked when I bought it but I went ahead and completely disassembled it and cleaned out 80 years of old oil/dirt and replaced the springs and a couple of the smaller screws someone had butchered up in the past. Also put new friction rings on it.
I was going to get the barrel shortened and get rid of the polychoke but the gunsmith told me that would be a mistake. He said it appeared the polychoke was original since there were no stars on the barrel to denote the barrel choke (I had to look that one up on the internet.)
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With the old guns I just made sure they were empty and practiced.
With these new fangled modern wonders that damage roll pins I've gone ahead and bought those special dry fire rounds so I don't have to worry about damaging the firing pin/striker retaining pins.
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At the local pet stores I've bought from they call the crushed walnut shells "lizard bedding".
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I would think the best test for changes to the powder would be a combination of velocity/accuracy tests.
It's not just size/shape with powder as some have burn inhibitors on the surface of the kernels/flakes/balls.
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If I've used resizing lube I run the brass through the vibratory cleaner (crushed walnut shells) right after resizing/belling.
Thirty minutes does it. I bought an appliance timer at Lowes. Had two outlets on it. I set it for 30 minutes (an hour if I'm to lazy to play with it till I get it to 30 minutes).
Then I run it through a second vibratory cleaner (crushed walnut shells again) with a dribble of nufinish car wax poured on the media about every three batches. Brass is shinier than without the wax and stays shiny longer.
If I have some really nasty looking brass I segregate the pieces out till I get enough for a batch to put in the wet tumbler with the pins/water/lemishine and run that for 4 to 6 hours. I then run that damp/wet brass through the first (the one used to clean dirty brass) vibratory cleaner to dry the brass out. Then it gets run through the vibratory cleaner with wax before reloading it.
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4 hours ago, 36873687 said:
Nice dog house
Stud framed, T11 siding, plywood interior floors/ceiling/walls with 3" insulation top/bottom/sides. Big overhangs front/back for more shade in the summer and to help keep the rain off them and their porch.
These three are our 5th, 6th and 7th dogs since 1995. I did have to screw the rugs down on the patio/porches and inside as the bigger black dog likes to grab a run, drag it out into the dirt/grass and sleep under the stars. No kidding. I can put new rugs in the houses and in a day or two all of them will be outside getting rained on. Stainless steel round head wood screws and big stainless washers keep the rugs where I put them.
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Same three guys hanging on a cold rainy day just a few days after all that snow melted. The two black dogs are on the rugs on the covered front porch. The new kid is sleeping out in the rain on a 45 F day. Sound asleep in the cold rain. They've got three dog houses with rugs on the floors and two covered porches with rugs and he's sleeping in the cold rain to be next to his buddies, I guess.
Oh, that patio the big guy is on is 6 ft. wide by 3 ft. deep. He's 10 months old.
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My three. The old/smart guy lying on the carpeted patio in front of the covered/carpeted porch on the big dog house. The two younger/larger guys lying out in the snow together.
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Have you replaced the striker in the Glock? Seems I read, somewhere, a few weeks back about the tips on some glock strikers wearing early/short life. I don't want to get into the MIM arguments, and maybe part of the reason for the discussion was someone selling tool steel strikers for Glocks and some other handguns.
Then there's the striker spring replacement, etc. If you're primers are seated as they should be I'd try new springs first, then a new striker.
I've put extended firing pins in some of my CZ's (from CGW) but on others I left the stock firing pins installed. Haven't had to trouble shoot a like strike issue in anything but my S&W M&Ps. That was a combination of light strikes/no strikes and was finally identified as sear flutter (no strike) and timing (light strike) when the striker block wasn't quite out of the way when the sear released the striker.
I don't know if Glocks can have timing issues or not (sear releasing striker before the striker block is fully raised would be a timing issue.)
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I keep reading/hearing that Mecgar makes the CZ magazines. They stamp CZ on them and CZ adds $12 or $14 or more to the price and sells them.
I've never had an issue, so far, with the CZ or Mecgar magazines losing control of rounds at the top.
I have read about people having issues with the top round being dragged forward by the slide. The advice I've seen about that is to polish the center section of the slide that pushes the top bullet into the chamber so it slides over that next bullet without dragging it forward. Reduced friction and all. Can't say it works, as I've never had to do it, but other people advise it.
Good luck.
Oh, the reason people ask about it seems to be that when they don't empty the magazine, that top round, having been pulled forward, hangs up the nose of the bullet on the feed ramp and makes it difficult to remove the partially loaded magazine - or keeps it from falling out when the magazine release is pushed.
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I shoot mine first. I don't think some need a bushing. I've got a couple that I ordered/installed CGW bushings in. The groups "cried out" for help and I'm sure on the Compact it helped a lot, looking at the groups from the first range trip after the install.
As to wear? Like the thread on the CZ Forum about what causes dirty barrels/increases barrel fouling, there's factors to barrel wear. Some people feel guns run better with little to no lube. I've read some people claim they run their "dry" because that's the way it's supposed to be. Cleaning frequency? How much does a bunch of crud build up increase wear on the metal parts? How fast they shoot it/how hot it gets? Then the stuff you can't control like how the bushing and barrel fit together from the factory. Some small difference in clearance/angle/contact surface amounts might affect things like wear, too.
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I don't game/play/compete, but I like my red dot far enough in front of the rear sight that I can flip the rear sight and use it if needed. I really don't care much for red dots as I always shoot better groups with a scope, but I still have some on a few of the AR15's.
I have one, an AR pistol in .223 with a DP Pro mounted out on the free float rail. It's way out there with a pistol, right. So I thought I'd mount it out on the rail and see how it worked. Works great so far. DP Pro with the big ugly triangle. The triangle appears "smaller" out there but is still easily visible/usable.
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Same guy was in the movie about Benghazi. He has the right "feel" for someone who thinks he's a quiet, easy going, analyst type but is able to rise to the occasion when things go south.
As the female French cop told him, "You keep saying you are not a wolf, but I think you are a wolf trying to be a sheep." Or something to that effect.
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The Omega P01's are good pistols. I have a couple. One was my EDC for several months last summer/fall. No mechanical/accuracy issues with it, just that the weather changed and I'm carry open around my house/garage/property till warm weather comes back next year.
If the one you're looking at has had the CGW work done then it's a pretty darned good pistol.
I actually really like the way the P01 feels in my hand. My first was the Urban Gray model. Every time I picked it up I immediately feel that difference in the grip vs. my other CZ's. I figured it must be those vertical grooves in the front and back of the grip frame. Every time. It was odd that that pistol felt so good in my hand. Not just different, but good. That's part of the reason I bought the black P01 Omega. Feels just as good.
I have a P07, too. It is my EDC when I'm out in the car/truck running around getting shopping done, gassing up cars, grocery store, eating out, etc. It has an RMR/back up sights on it and is a really good pistol, too.
If you can get a P01 with all the CGW work already done on it for a similar price to a new P07, you'll be ahead as the money, effort and parts are already in the P01. And, as you mentioned, magazines are much cheaper for the P01.
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I'll have to keep an eye on mine. I'd assumed they were more rust resistant than the blued metalforms I also use. I wipe both types/brands down with the same oily cloth I wipe the surfaces of guns down with, but figured the ASCs were still not as likely to rust.
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The stainless steel ASC's rusted?
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I've tried several loads (couple factory, couple reloads) in my 9MM carbines. Best groups, so far, are with the 115 grain hollow points (Precision Delta or Zero) on top of Blue Dot with a CCI or Federal SPP. It's a compressed load but below maximum. Just tried it because my P07 like the same powder with light bullets (135 grain Noslers - .40 S&W). I had blue dot already, so I tried it in the 9MM and it shoots the best groups, so far, in my CZ 9MM handguns, too.
I've got some other powders, to try, but haven't really got around to them yet (Tite Group and A#7).
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Lots of double stack magazines do that. On a pretty regular basis people on the CZ Forum ask the same question - why does my magazine make a rattle noise when I shake it? Different magazines/calibers do it at different round counts in the magazine.
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Primed 200 9MM cases for some Blue Dot and 115 grain hollow points later in the week. Nice few minutes on the bench out in front of the garage after I put the dogs in the pen for the night.
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I've had my Mk1 5.5" bull barrel Ruger since 1981 or 82. Only pistol I've ever had that thought it was a rifle.
As to taking it apart and putting it together? I do remember having an issue with it that first time. Then I figured out what was wrong and just how to "tip" the barrel up and look in the back to see when the hammer strut was in the right place to push the lever shut/into the back of the grip. After that it's been easy.
Got my youngest son a similar (but older Mk1) several years ago. He spend an afternoon up above the old garden shooting butterflies off stick weed flowers at 25 to 35 yds. and fell in love with it, like I did mine 30 years before.
If I was going to buy another Ruger these days the model/series/Mk wouldn't make a difference to me, as long as it was a 5.5" bull barrel.
Sort of like an M1 Garand. You can put the follower in two ways. One way doesn't work well. You only do it once. After that it sticks with you.
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Resized almost 200 pieces of WIN 9MM brass, just over 200 pieces of Blazer 9MM brass and a similar number of "mixed" 9MM brass. Only belled the Win. brass.
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My dad (and his dad) always squirrel hunted with .22 shorts. Head shots, no messing up the meat that was intended for supper that day, or breakfast the next morning.
Dad told me that sometimes, if he missed, the squirrel would stop chewing on the nut, look around, then go back to chewing on the nut and he'd get it his second shot (I don't think dad missed much). He said it was because the .22 shorts were so quiet they just didn't sound like a rifle shot, even a standard .22 long rifle.
They hunted with bolt action and pump .22 rifles. But, Remington (and probably other companies as well) used to make semi-auto .22's specifically for .22 shorts. I almost bought a Remington 241 many years ago (just missed it at a pawn shop). The Rem. 241 was a copy of the little Browning take down .22 that loads through stock.
If someone could design/build/sell a working .22 short firing semi-auto 70 or 80 years ago, it could be done now, either by a tinkerer who likes working on his guns or by a shop that does custom work.
Anyone who says .22 shorts won't kill should see the pictures of the piles of squirrels dad used to bring home when we lived in MI. They might not be "100 yd. killers" but inside reasonable small game head shooting ranges they get the job done.
Having said all that, I've not seen a box of .22 shorts for sale in a store in 30 years or more.
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New CZ 75 B owner
in CZ
Posted
1. My P01's firing pin block is also slightly "up" when the side is off the frame. So, probably normal (never really paid much attention to it.) The firing pin return spring is a nice stout spring - like all the CZ springs. They make them for "duty" use. Military, police, etc. You can buy target/competition CZ's but yours and mine were not built for that. You can modify it/have it modified for target/competition use (yeah, you can actually make it shoot better than it currently does-ain't that wild.) Now you know why my glock/xdm/m&p/browning pistols are in the safe these days).
2. When the slide contacts those raised humps on the trigger bar you get a combination of friction and working against the trigger bar spring to push the trigger bar down, that's normal. Once it gets over those humps and the slide is in place you'll have to move the slide backwards to line up the take down marks and it has to move the hammer back to half cock, so you're also fighting the hammer spring plus friction of moving the parts. Go ahead and move the hammer back to the half cock position with your thumb, then line up the take down marks and see how it feels.
Keep it clean. Keep it lubed. Most CZ folks say after you shoot it about 500 rounds you'll be able to tell how much it smooths itself out.