nickbfishn
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Posts posted by nickbfishn
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4 minutes ago, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello: I see that you may need more crimp on those. The other thing to look at is the lead into the barrel. I have had to cut an angle on a couple of barrels that did not feed well. Thanks, Eric
Thanks Eric, I think I'll try more crimp.
also, I did cut an angle into my other upper. When I noticed these marks from the taccom I tried my other upper and guess what....the bullets are hitting the top of that barrel too! So, I think it's a lower/mag/bolt issue.
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4 minutes ago, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello: I see that you may need more crimp on those. The other thing to look at is the lead into the barrel. I have had to cut an angle on a couple of barrels that did not feed well. Thanks, Eric
Thanks Eric, I think I'll try more crimp.
also, I did cut an angle into my other upper. When I noticed these marks from the taccom I tried my other upper and guess what....the bullets are hitting the top of that barrel too! So, I think it's a lower/mag/bolt issue.
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1 hour ago, gerritm said:
Maybe a little long? I run my SNS 147's load at 1.12 with my Taccom ULW. No problem 100% reliable.
gerritm
I'm at 1.11. Btw, what and how much powder are you using behind those 147's?
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Bought a used Taccom ULW barrel attached today a nameless upper from a forum member. I have it planted on an NFA glock lower. I Loaded up a 35 rd mag and manually cycled all rounds through to make sure the bullets would feed and seat properly.
Well they did just fine with the exception of putting a hickey on each bullet im virtually the same place on every last one.
the bullets are coated SNS rn 125gr with a 1.117 oal.
*** update*** the marks are happening on the topside of the bullets! The bottoms have no marks at all.
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And looking at close up pictures they look identical
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11 hours ago, bmiller said:
Could you check and see if the ATi lower is the same as the NFA?
I'm 99% they are one in the same.
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9 hours ago, bmiller said:
Here is the the QC 10 magwell that I printed in chopped carbon fiber filament. It is very stiff and very light.
I'd like to get one of these made for my ATi Milsport lower.
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Put the timers on pcc shooters belts?
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3 hours ago, TGibe said:
I ordered one of these and it shipped today. Interesting description about the barrel from their website:
Barrel: 16" chrome moly steel barrel. Chambered in 9mm, (9x19), with a 1/10 twist. The A2 profile barrel is nitride treated for durability and finished off with a Palmetto State Armory 13.5" M-Lok free-float rail and an A2 bird cage style flash hider. Barrel is laser engraved with "9MM 1:10 PSA PCC CHAMBER" because it has be optimized for use in Pistol Caliber Carbine competitions.
I guess I will find out what that means once I get it...
Curious, their descriptIon says to be used with palmetto 9mm lowers. Are they suggesting ONLY PSA lowers?
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I bought some TF +6 extensions from a guy here on Enos. What I need to know is can I use these on the 31 round Glock mags along with the factory Glock spring?
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How much has everyone been paying for their 24C's?
im having some issues with my rise trigger. I've had it go full 3 round bursts on 3 occasions and I've had light strikes numerous times. It may be some other issue going on as well, but the same trigger also went full auto when I dropped it into my 223 so I'm over it and want to try something that seems to be a proven winner.
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Eric, I had similar problems running my first match this weekend, but not with recoil and follow up shots. I think the buffer is fine...I think.
my problem is a feeding issue of some sort. The on every stage I had at least 2 times when I had to rack the bolt because the bullet wasn't fully chambered. And on all but 2 occasions the extractor didn't even have a hold of the case. On the 2 occasions that it did hold the case I was able to recover the rounds and see that there was an identical shaved section of the bullet cone. I'm using 147 flat nose coated.
So so yesterday I ramped the barrel extension and took it to the range today. Had similar results as the match, just not as frequent.
so I dedicated to mark the bullets and see where the damage was occurring. as it turns out its shaving the top side of the round, not the bottom where I was sure it was hitting the barrel extension.
So my thought now is the round is hitting the bottom of the extension and then bouncing up and shaving on the top side of the extension and all this bouncing is causing the round to pull out of the extractor.
thoughts?
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I put the Ergo grips on all my AR's. You can usually score them on sale or at gun shows for $15 or less
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8 minutes ago, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello: That is good to get a report on the added spring. I guess I will phone tomorrow to order a couple to try. They sent me an email saying they no longer offer samples on the one I requested. I may also look at using stacked rubber and plastic washers or Bellville washers. Thanks, Eric
I ordered a sample of the h10 & h11 and got both. The diff is the height. I was afraid the 11 would be to tall, but it actually works just like max had described. The bolt comes back under normal tension to maybe a half inch past trigger reset. If I pull real hard I can make it move about another 1/4".
With the h10 it came back about 3/4-1" past reset under light tension and about another 1/4" under hard tension.
if you want to try the H10 I'll send it to you.
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Final update. I finally was able to run the gun after I got the smally spring installed on the bottom end of my JPSCS.
On the system I have 3 steel, 1 tungsten, 80% spring and the H-11 smally. All I can say is WOW. This thing shoots like a .22, and after my first 6 or 8 rounds I literally had to put the gun down for a minute because I was giggling like a school girl ?.
The cycle is very short and very quick. I can double tap as quick as my limcat limited gun and hit an 8" plate at 25 yards with every round, no sweat. I had a couple of issues with feeding and ejecting, but only when I used ammo deemed as "practice." This is the ammo that for one reason or another didn't load properly and we put it into separate boxes. Well, I grabbed the wrong box when I left the house. I did, however, have about 30 good rounds and I didn't have any issues with it whatsoever.
on a final note, I had a box of precision delta reman FMJ ammo that I was using for my production gun and I decided to run a few rounds for shits. This ammo produces 133pf out of my pistol so it's obviously much hotter than my pcc ammo. However, it actually felt good to shoot and the dot barely moved, but the cycling was wicked fast and sounded a little harsh. I'm afraid to use it with this setup because I feel like it will beat the gun apart. Thoughts?
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On 7/31/2017 at 7:31 AM, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello: Just buy the Glock 33 round mags and add a +5/6 base pad and load them to 36 rounds. Get some Glock Factory 17 round magazines also. The only other ones I have seen that work 100% are the Magpul 21 round mags. The Taccom coupler works well also for me with a 33 round and a 17 round joined together. The Glock factory mags cost a little more but just plain work. Thanks, Eric
Eric, can you share a link to the +5/6 base pad that you use?
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Just now, 10cup said:
Yes, both of my JP guns came with no buffer detent pin.
Makes sense. I'm going to tinker this evening and see what happens. I'm pretty sure I have a slight gap because of the detent pin.
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8 minutes ago, BigBamBoo said:
Yes, that is what I achieved by "shortening" the buffer tube to remove the over travel.
Seems JP changed their stance on pre-loading the SCS spring.
The attached picture is from the paperwork that came with my SCS. This was one of the original 9mm SCS.
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This makes sense to me because I would think they don't want a gap between the bolt and buffer for several reasons, including having the metal parts slam together (no good) and to smooth out the operation altogether (very good). This brings me to another question. Are you supposed to remove the buffer detent when using the SCS? I'm not sure of the exact name, but its the little pin that keeps the buffer from springing out of the tube when taken down.
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I got my free samples in from Smalley today. I ordered a CS100-M11 & M10. I ordered both simply because I was afraid the M11 might be a little to long and since they were free I figured why not. Anyway, I'm going to play around with both sometime this week on my JPSCS and I'll report back with my findings.
Max, did you try different springs as well, or just go straight to the M11?
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Max I'm glad you just said that! My sample spring is on it's way and I fully intended to just drop it in the bottom of the buffer tube and the the SCS on top ?
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24 minutes ago, 10cup said:
Now how do you get your SCS "rod" to move back so you can get the upper off is the question for sure!
I hadnt taken a tube off in a while so my memory is vague, but can you remove the buffer tube without having to take the gun down? Otherwise, it seems like you're in a pickle for sure.
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22 minutes ago, gnhowell1 said:
Compressing the SCS. The weights move fine but then pressing capture rod back enough to clear the rear of the carrier.
That's precisely what I thought you might say.
So now (I'm assuming) as the gun is sitting assembled the capture rod of the SCS is probably already into the back of the carrier?
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18 minutes ago, gnhowell1 said:
Just tried the CS100-M11 behind the JP SCS in my gmr-13... Definitely less dot movement, however, putting the gun together was difficult and I'm not sure how to get it back apart...
Any suggestions Max?
I'm curious as to what made it hard to put back together?
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6 hours ago, Maxamundo said:
????
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Diagnosis
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
That looks good from here! I'm curious how this was done.