fbzero
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Posts posted by fbzero
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12 hours ago, Cltpewpew said:
Local shop sells at 159 4 lb jug. Couple months ago.
I stopped by Grafs just yesterday on my way back from Kansas City and bought a 4lb. Didn't need it, but hearing lots of rumblings about the shortage of nitrocellulose. You might find that your local joint isn't as cheap as it used to be next time they have it either...Grafs was something like 168 a very short time ago...it's all jumping again.
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Slide Milling
in CZ
Can confirm, normal without a plate on these pistols. Don't like the way it looks, but haven't had any problems.
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On the harder end to ignite(think CCI), a bit harder to seat than most if you aren't swaging primer pockets. All properly seated ones go bang in my experience.
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18 hours ago, LordManHammer said:
I just opened a new box (my second box of 3600) of PD V2 124 JHP. Lots and lots of debris in the bag and stuck in the hollow point. I just ignore it. Hasn't been a problem for me.
Same with my most recent order. Doesn't seem to matter on paper, though I do prefer them to be prettier lol. -
I lock my slide back and use an oil pen to apply some oil to the barrel and rails, then I pull a bore snake through the barrel and wipe up the feed ramp a bit every 4-5 local matches. I'll detail clean before a major, or maybe 1 time a year otherwise. In my experience, there is no real reason to clean them every couple hundred rounds...
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HHDG is good, IMHO, and I know they can make custom lenses for some other popular frames as mentioned above. Early on, I took the super cheap route and had my eye doc make some lens for safety frames they had. They scuffed easy and just didn't last very long.
I ended up with a HHDG certificate off a prize table and gave it a go. End product is much better than my choice the first time around. They were super responsive and easy to work with. -
I sent a couple CZ and Canik barrels to Patriot Defense to be reamed. Had them back a week from when I sent them out and no more issues having to load super short. Would do business with them again.
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I concur, around 3.5gr with a 135gr. Usually somewhere between 4 and 4.2 for the 125gr.
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I also ordered a MA die set and was thoroughly disappointed with the sizing die, though I liked the mandrel, seating, and crimp dies.
As mentioned, the sizing die was scratching brass pretty bad, which I corrected with steps mentioned above. Awesome, now I was in business - right up until I realized that there are about 2-3 headstamps in my mixed brass that don't have enough neck tension after being sized. I can press the bullet into the case with just finger tension.
So, needless to say, I just went back to the Dillon sizing die that has worked great for me in the past. At this point, I say just embrace the wasp waist... -
On 4/10/2024 at 7:52 AM, Atlas33 said:
So I definitely lean towards PD but they’re a little hard to come by right now, which is why I’m trying to find other solid options that are both affordable and perform. That being said, USPS just lost a sample pack of PD that I ordered. Took them two weeks just to tell me that PD never shipped them. I have been in contact with Pd the whole time and Lisa assured me they did. PD has great customer service and made it right.
No lies detected. PD's biggest downfall for me is that they are much harder to catch in stock than RMR's offerings. To make matters worse, their in stock notification system doesn't seem to work the majority of the time. The double-edged blade of being a popular option I guess... -
2 hours ago, Atlas33 said:
I appreciate that. I would lean towards the nukes as I am shooting an open Gunn. I just got a sample batch of PD that I’m going to test and see how it all goes. It’s good to have a couple sources of bullets.
100% a good idea to have multiple sources of the materials you need.
As I said, both companies are great, but if open pistols are why you are going with the Nuke, then the PD JHPv1 and JHPv2 offer the base with no lead exposed at a cheaper price(about 1.5c cheaper per round based on buying 1 case/3K). The Nuke, while excellent, is really geared more towards self-defense and you are paying extra for that functionality in a context that doesn't really require it. The Nuke is great for what it is though, and also a great option for someone that wants to stockpile a single projectile for multiple functions.
On an other note, 99% sure USPS has lost my most recent shipment of 135gr RMR MatchWinners =/
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They are good to go. I use both RMR's and PD's and consider both to be top notch. Edge to PD for anything with a comp since they have no exposed lead on the base. Edge to RMR for having weights that I prefer, like 135gr. RMR also has frequent sales, 2nds, etc. Both are great companies, so just decide what your needs are and go with the one that best meets them.
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I measure because if I'm setting up new dies or a press, I am able to duplicate my previous results.
For the bell, I'm just trying to open up the mouth as little as possible to not damage the projectile when seating. I usually see 0.382-0.383 recommended for this and I usually end up in the 0.381-0.382 range. Depending on the diameter of your coated bullets, you might end up with slightly more.
For the crimp, all we're really trying to do is remove the bell - not hold the bullet in place as you seem indicate in your comments regarding setback. Preventing setback is a function of neck tension, and if it is proper, you shouldn't be getting any setback even before you crimp. Anywhere from 0.376-0.379 is the general range(recommend the higher end of that range for coated projectiles) here and we all find out what works best for us. I like the majority of mine to end up at 0.378-0.3785. -
3 hours ago, TonytheTiger said:
Eh, I don't know.
I can't measure the difference in transition speed of a 14.5" vs. 18" gun of similar front end weight. And I've tried.
But I can definitely measure the difference of putting my reticle on the center of a 50yd paper and ripping a .12 split with confidence that the second shot is on, versus a slightly more jumpy gun that requires two separate sight pictures with .30 in between them, or throwing a third shot because of low confidence in the second one. You get a stage with 6-10 mid range papers like that and it adds up quick.
I agree 100%, with two caveats. First, at the matches I was attending at the time, there wasn't that much paper past 30y or so once the state shut down the 200y bay. Even with the 14.5", I was confident in doubles on 95% or more of the targets. Second, my 18" isn't of similar front end weight. Not saying that the difference would be massive, but my money is that there would be a slight edge to the rifle that offered more mobility at that particular match.
Ultimately though, I probably just wanted an excuse to build another rifle more than anything... -
Wasn't for PCSL, but at a time when most of our local 3gun never went over 200y and was mostly fast bay style stuff, I built a rifle with a 14.5" Faxon barrel that comes with a pinned brake in the gunner profile, adjustable gas block and 1oz buffer kit from Taccom. Super light build that was perfect for matches like that. I'd say it isn't limited to 200y, but if I were really stretching it, I'd still prefer my Stretch 16" or 18" Criterion build. It's the one I always grab for close stuff though. Maybe a tad more recoil, but I'm certain the transitions are faster and probably more than make up for it.
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9 hours ago, GeneBray said:
Over travel screw on trigger is my first guess.
This would be my guess as well. When adjusting your overtravel screw, you need to be able to rock the hammer back and forth with the trigger pulled back completely and ensure that there is absolutely no engagement between the hammer hook and sear. -
Red Hill and Weber Tactical are good options. Ultimately, the GX is nicer, but not reasonable unless/until lead times improve. The RH or WT are still very good and definitely won't hold you back and you can add a lever yourself as mentioned above, which I have done.
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So far since putting in the 12lb mainspring, I've done two matches and a practice session without any more light strike issues with the SA primers. It's close enough to the 11.5lb spring on the trigger pull that I'll probably just leave it that way even after running out of the SA primers. Hopefully that will help some of the other S2 shooters using them.
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Had the 13lb CGW spring in, but it did have a considerable effect on the DA pull. Got my hands on a 12lb Eric Grauffel spring from BSPS and it felt considerably nicer than the 13lb, so I rolled the dice and took it out to a match this weekend with more of the SA primed ammo. No more light strikes so far, so hoping that extra little bit is all I needed for reliability.
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Just wanted to follow up on this after getting more rounds loaded with these primers down range.
-My first range trip to chrono/test was 50 rounds, no issues.-After this, I brought 200 to a local USPSA match and ended up having a single light strike, which went off on the second strike. Didn't read too much into it at that time.
-Took another 200 out for testing purposes yesterday and had two more light strikes that both went off on second strike.
Firearm is a S2 w/ CGW pro kit installed, 11.5lb hammer spring, extended firing pin, etc. Never had any light strikes with Fiocchi or WSP, so assuming the issue is that the primers are indeed harder at this point. Have installed the 13lb hammer spring for now to see if the issue goes away, and if it does, will keep it in until I shoot through the SA primers.
Not knocking the primers at all, some are harder than others and we can make our firearms less reliable when we change internals. Just the nature of the beast.
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On 3/8/2024 at 4:24 PM, z40acp said:
Fbzero, your Eemann Ultimate, did you get the aluminum or the steel?
Aluminum, didn't even know steel was an option.
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I can't speak to the AC, but I run the Eemann Ultimate in my CZ's, which I have installed with the CGW Pro Kit. I do prefer it to the more curved options. My index finger pad naturally goes to where it should be with the flat triggers and they feel like they break closer to 90 degrees in SA mode.
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While I have no doubt that uniform cases would improve accuracy from a technical standpoint, it is 100% possible to create loads that make fuzzy holes at 15-20y with mixed brass. The mixed brass certainly isn't the problem here, but likely the 111 PF. I'd guess that your velocity isn't high enough to stabilize the projectile.
You might as well be throwing those 147's; You're only at about 750 FPS. In my experience, 147's seem to tighten up once I pass 900 FPS.
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Dillon seems to be the brand to choose for support and longevity. A 750 would absolutely work, but I have a different take having started on a 650(same as 750, different priming system) before going to a 1050. I still have my 650, but use it for things like .40 S&W, or loading already processed .223. It's an excellent press, just has it's limitations.
You are looking to load 9mm and possibly .223 later, both rounds that you're going to come across crimped brass with. With no way to deal with that on the 750, you're more likely to get the occasional high/hard to seat primer. Additionally, the extra stations come in pretty handy to take care of extra tasks.
N320 & sport pistol
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
I don't blame you, I don't buy 1lb's for the same reason.
Either way, we are now at a point where you need to start generating load data for a few different powders and find some alternatives that you can get by with, because I doubt we're going to be able to reliably get the exact ones we want over the next 1-2 years at least.
For standard 9mm USPSA loads, I've had good luck with several different powders. My order of preference would be N320>Prima SV>Prima V>CSB1M>Win238/HP38>Titegroup. Unfortunately, they don't import the Vectan PrimaV/SV anymore
At 13.99lb when I was getting it, I wish I had stocked up like a madman...