fbzero
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Posts posted by fbzero
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Honestly, probably just tolerance stacking. You have the normal press variation, the variation of mixed cases and the very slight variation in the projectiles all adding up. Mine seems to be around 0.01 with similar circumstances on a 1050, and that's with flat tipped projectiles that seem to be more consistent. Probably 90% of them are within .003, then there just ends up being a random one that is further outside of that.
Are your rounds accurate at reasonable pistol distances? Do they all chamber without issue and pass the case gauge? Unless there is some practical problem, I wouldn't spend too much time worrying about it. Pistol distances are much shorter and we don't need to be as meticulous as if we were loading for precision rifles. -
Had the same happen. They are a bit harder to seat and I was loading at a good speed, so my assumption is crimped brass + loading fast + oversized primer = kaboom. Haven't had any more issues since making sure the swage rod is doing it's job.
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I've typically viewed shooting from a rest as a way to determine the accuracy potential of a reload, but always sighted in free style. Might just be a logical thought that has no basis in reality, but my assumption has always been that since the firearm is likely to recoil differently and I will be braced differently, it may alter POI. If I sight in free style with my normal grip, then this should not be an issue.
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I did end up receiving a response from Freedomsmith pretty quick, suggesting that a bent trigger bar was the most likely culprit and offered to refund the trigger. I wasn't really convinced, but had a second Rival SFX in the safe, so I moved the trigger bar from that one into the one I had put the Freedomsmith trigger in, and it did end up working.
If it's bent, I can't tell where or guess how it got that way, but I did notice when putting the "problem" trigger bar into the second pistol that it only seems to function with the trigger shoe it came with. The shoe from the second Rival SFX gives the same results as when I had the Freedomsmith trigger installed initially.
Short story, bent...out of spec somehow, who knows? It is definitely related to the trigger bar, so if anyone experiences these symptoms, you can take the offered refund or buy a new trigger bar for $15. Kudos to Freedomsmith for the fast response, good customer service, and sound advice. -
I e-mailed Freedomsmith for ideas too, but thought I most post on here to see if anyone else has seen this and might know what to do as well. I recently ordered a "Sport" style trigger for the Rival SFX and installed it, which was fairly simple.
When racking the slide, trigger not depressed, the striker is cocked and everything seems fine. If I rack the slide(using normal pressure) with the trigger still depressed, however, it does not cock the striker. I've noticed that if I rack it very hard with the trigger depressed, it will sometimes cock the striker. Some online posts suggest something about a bent trigger bar, but if I put the stock trigger back in, everything works fine - so I doubt that is the case. Working with a stock Rival SFX.
Anyone have any ideas what might cause this and/or how to resolve it? TIA
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The close matches to me have all shut down. All the matches here are 1.5-2 hour drives now...makes for a pretty long day, or having to stay in a hotel and make a whole weekend out of it. Seems to me more enthusiasm locally for tactical 2gun type matches with less of a drive now.
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On 7/8/2023 at 8:19 PM, rifleman777 said:
My extended Henning base pads don’t…..played with slightly sliding the Lok magwell slightly back and forth to see if I could hit a clearance “sweet spot”……nothing worked. Base pads are probably 1.5 to two years old at most.
Another local shooter says that there were a few generations of the Henning pads. I think to sum it up, he basically said if they are flat on the top that they aren't going to work with it, but that if they are angled, they will.
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23 hours ago, l98ster said:
Hi everyone,
I found something on tacticals#!t.com, and was wondering if this is a legit company??
Yes, they originally opened local to me in STL and now have a location or two in FL as well. I just go to the store instead of ordering from their website if I want something, but they are definitely a legit business. -
10 hours ago, darthdively said:
So I ordered some standard size LOK bogies to give them a try. I may pick up a set of Scales 4.0. Do you need to buy the weighted inserts?
No, you do not need the weighted inserts if you don't want to use them.
I'm not currently using them, though I have considered trying them in the future to see if it might help with the nose-heavy balance. Recently a friend switched to LO and said that adding the brass magwell from LOK and their aluminum palm swell grips greatly improve the balance to him. The brass inserts would be almost the exact same amount of weight into the grip area, so when I see him, I wanted to feel if I think it would be worth messing with or not.
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19 hours ago, RennBaer said:
I believe that you're thinking of A&A Optics, not AAAoptics. People have had good experiences buying Holosun optics from AAAoptics even though the website looks kind of crummy, and an employee who works at Holosun said over on reddit that they're an authorized Holosun reseller, so I took the chance and ordered two 507 Comps from them on Monday. They shipped the same day and were delivered today, but I haven't been able to look at them yet.
Good catch, fast reading got me there! -
I originally started with Hennings, which I found to be too thin despite liking the shape and texture. Because they didn't fill the pocket between my thumb and index finger, I would sometimes get left/right deviation on quick draws leaving me hunting for the dot. Then I tried Lok G10 Palm Swells, which helped alleviate that problem, but because of the shape didn't feel like I got good support on my offhand.
Then I heard about SSI Scale 4.0's, and a lot of people were claiming that they made their S2 feel more "2011-like". I don't know about all that, but it does fill my hand, give me more consistent draws, and have a good grippy texture. Only annoyance I have is that they do not have a short version, so if LO is something you are interested in, magwell choices would be limited. All I'm aware of for full grips is Springer, and I hear they don't work with the Henning base pads...
*EDIT* Some people also say they needed to relieve them for their mag release, but I just got a G10 mag release and filed it down as necessary instead. -
OOS now, unfortunately. I have bought reburb Vortex products from them in the past though and they are top notch.
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Think I hit 32 weeks or so on an 8 week lead time on my first one. Second one I think was about 25 weeks on a 16 week lead time. I also found him difficult to get a hold of when I tried on the first one. No e-mail response, saw message on the site saying to text, and he never responded to that either. Texted again a week later and he said it would be sent within a week, and then got tracking maybe 2-3 weeks later. I didn't even bother trying on the second one. Just bought a RHT to use until it came and didn't think about it.
They are the nicest holsters I've come across, but the inaccurate lead times and lack of communication are terribly frustrating for sure. -
I have the old model of the same, which was the pinned slim brake before they started making them integral. As mmchambers06 stated, with an adjustable gas block, there is very little recoil. I had friends that tried to warn me off of such a light build with what they said would be an ineffective brake, but ultimately ended up being pretty happy with it. Definitely the type of build I'd run for any bay-style match.
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Send it to Patriot Defense and have them ream it IMHO.
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Usually 25y. I start at 7y and get a good zero, then move out to the 25y line and start shooting at the plate rack. From there, I adjust elevation to make sure I'm hitting the plates ~95% of the time, though I'll adjust windage if any issues present there as well(not typical if it was dead on at 7y).
Not going to say it's perfect or the best method, but it's quick and we aren't bullseye shooters. Seems to work well for the type of practical accuracy we need in the action sports.
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I used to spend a bunch of time trying to make sure everything was as perfect as it could be when it came to things like accuracy. Then I realized I was spending more time messing with the reloading side of things than the shooting side of things, and I had gotten into reloading to maximize the shooting side.
Now, I come up with a load, make sure it cycles well and then go straight back to the 25 yard line and start on the plate rack(making any RDS adjustments as necessary to dial it in first). Once dialed in, as long as I'm hitting the plates at least 90% of the time, I call it good verify my chrono numbers and move on(My assumption is that with a high enough hit percentage, the 10% is more likely than not just me).I was just as bad about 3gun. Spent a bunch of time coming up with sub-MOA .223 loads, when in reality anything relatively close to MOA is going to get the job done and even that is only going to come into play on the long range stages. USPSA isn't bulls-eye and 3gun isn't PRS. All we really need is practical accuracy with extreme reliability. I'd say keep your 135gr load and move on, but that's just me.
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On 3/13/2023 at 10:17 AM, ColoradoNick said:
Long story short I'm 38 with a pretty jacked lower spine. Surgery at L5/S1 for a disc herniation and I broke all of my lumbar spine TP's along with my pelvis. Wearing 3 full mags and a shadow 2 all day at matches has fired up my back and sciatica. The obvious answer is to eliminate some weight- not wear the mags all day, but is anyone wearing a rig with shoulder straps to take some weight off your waist?
One of my friends that shoots has back issues and said that switching to a Lynx belt with a ratchet on it really helped his back pain during matches. I don't have the back pain, but can affirm that the Lynx belt supports the weight noticeably better than the standard setups. Who knows, in combination with suspenders, it might be a good solution for you.
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11 hours ago, TheChef1 said:
Yeah i felt the same way. It felt weird ditching a gun inhad about 2grand into for one i was about $700 all in. I just felt like it does just about everything better than the shadow 2 except maybe recoil impulse.
The steel one is still pretty new to me. Only one match and a few range sessions under my belt. If you like the weight of the shadow you will like the steel. I felt the shadow 2 to be nose heavy and unbalanced. Lok brass grips helped that but man the thing was a tank. The steel rival and a good in between at about 40 oz with the SRO on. I do like it a little better than the poly but both are great. I have no regrets ditching the S2.
the plate is from Disruptivedefense and it lowers the dot down by about half because they remove the stupid slide racker hole.
Awesome, thanks for the thoughts and information! Ultimately, I think I'll let the timer/score pad decide what I do because it's really the only objective way to decide.
The first S2 I bought was from a local shooter who had it as a 2nd backup and was unfired(expensive to have a 2nd backup of for a total of 3 of them lmao..guess he decided he went overboard). Already had the Primary Machine slide cuts, so it actually felt fairly balanced. When I bought the backup one, I realized just how nose heavy the things come from the factory and sent it off for the cuts without firing a round through it. Also added SSI Scale 4.0's, which are a bit heavier than most grip panels, so the balance is very good. I expect they are somewhere close to 50oz, so definitely tanks.
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52 minutes ago, WxGuy said:
I think it is plate 02.
I think that is the correct factory plate for RMR/SRO, but the one in TheChef1's picture doesn't look like one of the factory plates unless I'm imagining things.
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8 hours ago, TheChef1 said:
Your story is almost identical to mine. I used to shoot shadow 2s. Bought a rival for my wife. This is me now lol
Nice! What do you think of the steel one? Glad I'm not the only one, feels a little crazy to be considering with the Shadows I have...
Also, what optic plate is that you're using for the SRO's? Looks a bit lower than factory. -
I'm not sure if the Orange has a better trigger than the standard as some people report or not, but I can confirm that the stock Orange trigger doesn't even remotely approach the CGW pro kit. Hope that helps.
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So my wife decided to move away from P320's towards the end of last year and settled on a Rival to replace it with. She bought one and I bought one to mess with at the range that I figured could also act as her backup, and they've just been sitting in the safe all winter. We both shoot CO, and I've been shooting a nicely set up Shadow 2 with Primary Machine cuts, SRO, CGW trigger job, etc Needless to say, its no slouch. I wanted to travel to some bigger matches this year and put together a clone of what I've been shooting, just in case.
Fast forward to last week and I finally got time to get out to the range and sight in the two Rivals, completely stock configuration. Started at 7y to get everything right on paper, then moved back to 25 yards to fine tune. Within 15 rounds or so(each), they were sighted in. One of the first things I noticed is that my groups at 7y were clover leaves. Not hard to do by any means, but it felt effortless compared to any other stock pistol I've shot. After the fine tuning, I spent about 2 magazines(each) at 25y shooting the plate rack and missed one time. I haven't shot since maybe last October, so needless to say, I wasn't particularly expecting to look like a competent shooter on this outing. The only real "complaint" I had was that there was more muzzle flip than I am used to(objectively, yes yes, I know the 9mm doesn't have much recoil), but the slide returned to zero after recoil and I know this would be easy to tune with recoil springs and actual competition loads instead of the full power factory 115's I use to break pistols in.
The P320 X5 my wife is used to is a hefty beast, so I decided some weight should be added. Put in W74 tungsten guide rods, 15lb recoil springs, TF brass backstraps, and brass baseplates on the magazines for a very well balanced pistol weighing in at 37oz(with empty mag). It's time to go out and test fire them with my USPSA loads now, and to be honest, I'm a little nervous. If the parts improved their performance by even a modest amount, I'm going to be half tempted to shoot one of them myself this season. At this point, I'd definitely recommend them to any new shooter first getting into the sports. To those who have "nicer" pistols and think they wouldn't be impressed, I'd say they might change their minds if they gave one an honest try.
I'll probably end up running drills with both and comparing times before I decide, but from what I can see so far, the Rival doesn't just shoot good at it's price point - it shoots good at any price point.
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May end up with one at some point, surprised it took them this long to make something geared towards competition. I do kind of wish they had a 6MOA dot as an option, but the 8MOA circle may be close enough in practice.
Canik not re-setting the striker.
in Canik
Posted
I recently had this problem and as far as I can tell, it does have something to do with the action bar. If it's bent, I can't see where, but when I put the bar from my second Canik in, it worked fine. The bar that would not work only seems to work with the trigger shoe it came attached to - even another Canik OEM trigger shoe of the exact same type will not work in conjunction with it.
The action bar is like $15, I'd probably try a new one and see if it resolves the issue.