rvb
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Posts posted by rvb
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my thoughts and well wishes are going your way!
-rvb
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Seems strange, not yet 30 yrs old and a desk jockey. Biopsy came back as basal cell on my nose. Getting it cut out next month. Guess I'll have to be carefull on the range from now on. Always wore a ball cap and had a beach umbrella on the range cart. Sun screen gets sweated off in 5 min so I didn't always bother with that, but in the peak of summer I sometimes put some on. Going to have to figure something out to better protect myself from now on I guess.
You wouldn't think an average of 3-4 days per month outside with matches/practice would be that bad, although I did work construction in college and spent a lot of time outside on house remodelling this summer.
Oh well. More of an inconvenience than anything I think in the grand scheme of things.
-rvb
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I think I'd be afraid to ccw a comp'd/ported gun. What if you end up shooting w/ the gun close to your body like from retention, or a struggle has you breaking the shot near you or your face? I've never put parts of my body near a comp 'cause I don't wanna learn the results first hand. Harmless? Dangerous? I dunno, but I ain't doin it w/o letting you try it first! [please put the vid on youtube! haha]
Legal/practical/tactical mumbo jumbo asside, I only want one "dangerous end" in a non-gamey gun.
-rvb
edit: oops, guess I could have jsut "+1" to TMC.
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I think baseball caps are under rated as far as head protection. Keeps brass away from getting behind your glasses, It keeps the sun off, and if you gotta a bullet fragment comming at your head, at least it hits the cap first. It maybe enough protection to keep you from getting scalped
My hat saved me from a seriously sore nose at one match.. I was fiddling with something (loading mags I think) while walking and was looking down when I walked into an aluminum ladder sticking out of the back of someone's truck. When I picked myself off the ground I saw the huge crease in the bill of my ballcap which had absorbed and dispersed the impact. So there are benefits in addition to helping to keep brass off your face....
-rvb
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Maybe all the blood is out of my brain and in my belly, but just from looking, it appears the sear pin and hammer pin is too close.
Wicked, do you have a set of these to see how the parts interact in the frame?
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...JUSTMENT%20PINS
-rvb
(following this thread since I want to get a jig before long... I have no real usefull info to add
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Thanks for the detailed reply, much appreciated.
I called the dealer, and Nissan doesn't have a remote start system and they "don't recommend them" in general (I imagine they hate having to debug and work around crappy installs).
I'll look into Compustar. A quick glance at their webpage and Tweeter stores are the only place around here that carry them, and I don't know how I feel about their install departments (seems kinda cuicuit-city-ish)...
I totally agree about the quality of the install...
I got turned onto the DEI Python brand since a local shop that specializes in alarms and custom detailing, suspensions, turbos, etc is doing a winter sale on remote starts, $350 installed for a 1400 (they advertise its installed by ASE cert mechanics, all soldered connections, etc). Of course there is the extra cost of getting an additional spare key. I've though about it and if I do have to put a key in the bypass module, it seems all the unit cares about is the chip, so I'll just take the key to the bench grinder first just so I'll feel better...
Thanks for the pointing out about the steering lock and brake shut off. Hadn't thought about the steering lock, so that's a good point that makes me feel better, too.
Considering all the silly crap getting built into cars these days, you'd think factory remote start would be common by now. Id rather have that than windshield wipers that turn themselves on or a car that parrallel parks itself or even auto headlights.......
thanks again to everyone
-rvb
On a vehicle that new, you might want to see if the dealer has a remote start option package they could install. From what I have seen, those are the nicest out there as far as integration with the factory wiring and factory fobs and functionality.But, since that may not be an option, here's the other options:
Cheapo - local auto parts store/department store/fleet-farm units - Usually very weak RF operated, poor range, and almost no integration with factory features (=carry two fobs).
DEI - Viper, Clifford, Python, etc. These are your somewhat higher end audio store units, and I think best buy sells a few. These are ok, not the most durable/reliable, but better range and options.
Then there's Compustar - IMHO, the best.
With Compustar and DEI stuff, some want to be hooked into the locks, and some don't care if they are not hooked up - you'll have to talk to the installer to see what they are willing to do.
There are other options out there. I have used and installed all of the 3 previously mentioned units. I would like to have a better look at the Alpine units though.
As far as keeping a key under the dash to disable the factory alarm - depends on where you live and the type of vehicle. While the X is a nice truck, I wouldn't be too worried about it unless you are in a high crime area. Locks just keep honest people honest as they say... same applies to factory alarms.
All remote starters hook into the brake pedal (hit the brake = shut down), and do nothing to disable the steering lock. Hard to steal a car that'll only run for 10-15 minutes and you can't touch the brake or steer
I would only suggest going to a very highly skilled installer - one that knows proper soldering or crimping techniques. Make sure you emphasize that you want this to work for many, many years. You will have to pay dearly for a unit that will last that long, and integrate nicely with the factory features, and have it installed nicely - at least $500 all said an done. I would be willing to pay at least twice that to have a factory version that just plugs in and communicates with all of the factory computers/modules.
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If I'm not shooting SHO, I use the surefire hold, FL between index and middle finger, tail cap on palm. I think many people overcomplicate the procedure. Reach down, grab a mag, seat it,and get back to shooting. If the flashlight fits you (not too big, or I use a G2Z that gives a little better grip) it won't fall out of between your fingers. Depending on the light and your hand size you may not get a perfect "index finger on nose of top bullet" hold on the new mag, but you'll get a good enough grip to seat it just fine. I'm only slightly slower reloading w/ a flashlight. Easier w/ a single-stack. I tried a bunch of techniques and that's fastest for me. Your grip on the new mag may take some practice. If I can start FL in hand I'll put the lanyard on for insurance.
-rvb
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Im looking at remote starters for the wife for Christmas so when its freezin out at 6:30 when she leaves she can warm the car for 5-10 minutes and not have to scrape windows (at least as much), etc.
Does anyone have experience with different brands/models they'd like to share?
What Im finding I dont like. It seems most of the units for newer cars with security chips in the keys require you to put a spare key in the bypass, which goes under the dash! Might as well put a "STEAL ME!" sign on it. And these bypass units are not included and cost extra.
Other downsides is factory key fobs wont necessarily work, takes over door locks, takes over parking lights, etc. Really scaring me away. We usually keep vehicles well past the decade mark, and I see future wiring problems galor. (The more high-tech cars get with stuipd features added, the more they SUCK to work on.)
Im specifically looking at the Python 1200 or 1400 but am open to suggestions.
Car is a 2006 Nissan Xterra 4x4.
I'm about to give up on the idea and head to the jewelry counter.......
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A quick google found these ANSI rated ones for $2.50/pair:
http://www.discountsafetygear.com/side-shi...fety-glass.html
as well as pages of others. That same page had $0.56/pair ones that weren't ANSI rated but should deflect casings just fine.
Next month I'm going to be getting my first pair of glasses in years to have as a backup (usually wear contacts) and I was thinking about this just the other day when I was at the eye drs getting a new prescription. Figured I'd just ask the doc when I order the glasses next month... I already asked him about the polycarbonate lenses and he said they tested them by firing a bullet at them and they cracked but the bullet did no penetrate. Not knowing I wanted them for shooting he asked "is that good enough for you?" I smiled and laughed a little picturing the wise-asses at the range volunteering to test them while I'm wearing them... "I guess that'll do" was my answer.
-rvb
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I like your idea of ammo allocation - I do something similar, but I allow for flexibility, in that if I find I need to spend more time refining something, I'll feel free to re-allocate for that practice session. But, I usually have a pretty good feel for how many rounds I want to spend at a particular skill or drill before I get to the range, and tend to stick with that most of the time.
Oh, I certainly agree you have to be flexible... sometimes a couple more repetitions will really solidify something new or you want to try new things, etc. What works best is different for everyone. I just found before I went to the range with a solid PLAN, I might go with 3-4 things I wanted to work on, and run out of time/ammo only having worked on 2-3 of them, or worse yet I'd get distracted by FUN stuff (ie the stuff I do well and don't need to practice as much).
-rvb
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I created a spreadsheet based on Saul's idea a while back myself. It really worked well so when I got to the range I knew what to focus on, and how to allocate my ammo. After a few weeks I tweaked and kept at it. I think it really made a difference this summer for me. It really shows you what you -need- to work on to improve your performance, not just what's fun or you're good at. The key is you have to be honest with yourself regarding your ability and the importance of the various skill sets...
My spreadsheet has gotten huge... for example I don't just have reloads, but reload to sho, reload to who, empty gun start, reload while leaving shooting position, reload while prone, etc.
excell is nice since you can sort by any of the fields (figure out what type of draws you should practice or figure out over-all what skills are weak). If you want to get fancy, you can use excel to base your practice ammo budget on the result of the formula. ie if you take 300 rounds, maybe you should spend 200 in moving laterally between shooting positions, 50 on who, 25 on long range accuracy, and 25 on empty-gun starts. Yea, I'm an engineering nerd.
I haven't updated it in a few months... Thanks for the reminder!!
I'll get back on it! ps. People at the range thought I was really weird when I showed up with a computer print-out of a practice schedule.
-rvb
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+1 to sargenv,
Brass cases have some resiliency. After being sized, they spring back a bit. This is more than enough to hold the case in place while trimming.
Thanks! I figured that was the "case." But I wanted to make sure since you mentioned it was designed to both size and trim. With .223 prices the way they are, I bet you guys are moving a ton of related equipment...
Thanks again,
-rvb
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Microelectronics Design Engineer
(design itty bitty computer chips)
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Nope, they don't spin. I size my 223 rem's with a small base die on stage 2 after punching the primer on stage 1 (univ decapping die). I run it through the 1200B on stage 4 with no issues.
Thanks for the reply!
-rvb
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Sorry, not possible with our trim dies. They are designed to combine the steps of sizing and trimming, because cases stretch when resized.
Found this thread while searching on trimmers, and would love some feedback from Dillon or experienced 1200 users.
I'm about to start loading .223 and came into a bunch of mil brass for free, so I'm reading up on what I need to load on my 550. I just this weekend ordered a sizer die and tool head for my 550 and the swager 600 (figured that would keep me busy for a couple weeks sizing/decapping and swaging).
My question is this: If I size the cases first, and then in another step run them through the 1200, will this work? Will the cases then spin like Tom Freeman mentioned since they have already been sized down and will be held in the trimmer with less tension? Should I just get a universal decapper and swage now and do the sizing in the trimmer?
From my search it seems several people are in fact running sizing dies prior to the trimmer, but I wanted to make sure I don't regret doing something...
Thanks!!
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will the sight line up on the pistols with the suppressor attatched?
Sights are not usually installed on detachable suppressors. The pistol sights can be ocluded from the can so often a higher sight is needed. I still need to get a higher sight for my 1911. Suppressors can change the POI (Point of Impact) on a gun so you need to be aware of how the gun shoots with the can attached. The good news is that even though the point of impact is changed, the groups are usually tighter.
Over Thanksgiving I got to really put a bunch of rounds through my 92 w/ the AAC on it (had it on the 9mm AR for a while, but just recently got around to getting a threaded barrel for the pistol). The pistol still has stock sights (3 white dots) which I usually don't like and end up painting over the dots. However, with both eyes open I found I could hit quite well sighting with the dots even with the can in the way. I could see the target w/ my left eye and let my brain super-impose the dots over the target. Worked pretty well. I might still get some higher sights for it, but I now don't feel I "have" to. The main reason I might get new sights is my wife had a hard time with this method (she is still pretty new to shooting but can usually shoot real nice groups).
Killed a lot of pumpkins out on the in-laws farm, about 150 yds from the house... yet mom-in-law couldn't hear me shooting so I didn't disturb her cooking!
-rvb
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One of the [many] things I enjoy about PD is the "run what ya brung" feel to it. Anyone new or experienced can grab their centerfire 9mm or bigger gun and be competative as far as equipment. That guys have been successfull on so many platforms demonstrates that. If you allow major scoring, then you might as well ditch the division and merge it w/ L10 as you would then need .40 to be competative (just like in L/L10).
Another great thing about the current setup was I could bring my IDPA SSP gear and get started in USPSA (so their diabolical plan worked!).
just my 2 pennies.
-rvb
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The hammer strut is KEY to a smooth DA trigger. you want that super polished. Not just the "nub" at the top, but down a good 1/2" or so where the hammer may rub on it. Then smooth the edges of the strut where mainspring sits. You'd be surprised how difference this makes.
Next the interface between the trigger bar and hammer must be smooth. Smooth out the hook on the hammer and the catch on the trigger bar, but don't let the edges change angles or you'll get stacking. I'd have to pull it to remember exactly where, but as the hammer cams back the sear rubs on it, so polish the hammer where the sear rubs to make it even smoother.
For SA, I cut the hammer hooks to about 0.018" IIRC. I don't change angles, but use a ceramic stone to get the hammer hooks and sear face nice and smooth.
All other polishing is gravy, but it all adds up. I lightly polish the trigger, trigger bar, and hammer pins. I smooth the edges on the trigger bar where it can rub the frame AND grips. Oh, and the top rear of the trigger bar should be nicely polished, this rubs on the underside of the cutout of the frame. Another important part is to smooth the top of the trigger bar spring.
I also lightly polish the top of the trigger where it rides in the frame, and the levers in the top of the frame. Basically anything that moves. For extra bonus lightly polish the firing pin block and cut a couple coils off that spring (I don't usually do this, but it does seem to help a HAIR),
I use a 15lb 1911 mainspring with 1 or 1.5 coils cut off (don't have the length in front of me). Only trust it w/ Fed primers. All other springs are factory. Stay away from those wolff trigger springs, they'll add grit to a good trigger job.
My DA is only about 5-6 lb or so with this set up and butter smooth (if I keep it reasonably clean). SA is about 2.5lb.
I've been meaning to test other primers, as well as testing lighter mainsprings w/ the federals to see just how light I can go, but so far I trust what I have so I haven't really tinkered.
-rvb
edited to add:
Just noticed this is for an issued sidearm... I'd stick with a "D" mainspring (18lb beretta mainspring, iirc). Polish the hammer strut up good as well as trigger bar and leave the rest alone. That's 75% of what you'll notice from polishing and will keep it 100% reliable for a lifetime w/ any ammo. My EII has been 100% reliable for tens of thousands of rounds w/ Fed primers only, but I'm only risking stage points if it fails for any reason, not my life!
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Like when you talk to a shapely girl = you look at her face but are "aware of her ....
below the chin area 
[seinfeld] You get a sense of it and then you look away. [/seinfeld]
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RVB ? What did you do to get your brain to let that happen ? I don't have a bid one ...but it does get in the way
I end up seeing just what you described happening.
A part of my problem is just a slow trigger finger I got to do someting while I am waiting on it.
rvb's wife says "Is this more of that mental crap?" as she reads over my shoulder. She's dissin my zen, man.....
anyway...
I sure hope better shooters than I are proofing my advise, but here is what is helping me in my transition from a choppy B shooter to a smooth A... I was so bad I was making up called C shots cause it wasn't "perfect." Talk about a time killer. (Funny I never was that picky about my sight picture in PD).
What is an "acceptable A-zone sight picture?" I went to the range this summer armed w/ 500 rounds of ammo and a goal to find out...
-First, some accuracy practice to train my brain that the "wobble zone" with the dot really isn't any bigger than the wobble-zone w/ irons (as I was discussing w/ Kingman this weekend, I'm still struggling with this one).
-Then I slowly shot at the A/C perf at different distances to train my brain what "the hairy edge" of acceptable LOOKS like. This one is a weird drill... I tried to still focus on the center of the A, but line up the dot on the perf w/ my periferal vision... ie what it would look like w/ a bad trigger pull.
-Then I would bounce back and forth between the left-side perf and right-side perf, gradually picking up the pace to train my brain how BIG the A-zone is.
-Next was the timing drills and bill drills.
-Then I set up two boxes, oh 10-12 feet or so apart w/ a target in front of each at maybe 5-7 yds. My goal was good hits of course, but mainly to draw,2,move,2 as quick as possible. Fluid motion was the goal and, stop me if you've heard these expressions before [wink], but I was seeing only what I needed to see.... and getting to the shooting. Was a good drill because if done right, I was already beginning movement to box 2 as I was finishing my draw and engaging T1... to wait on a "perfect" picture meant I would fall over! And the timer really showed if I wasn't ready to pull the trigger the instant I was stepping into box 2.
I hope some of that made sense. It did in MY head.
-rvb
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A lot of talk here seems to be about a relationship on pulling the trigger faster to get a better time on a stage.
I can't speak for everyone else, but for me it's about realizing an acceptable sight picture as soon as it's available and acting on it vs waiting for a more "ideal" sight picture. [bE hat on: "better visual awareness"] Pulling the trigger faster can simply be a beneficial side effect but isn't where the stage time improvement comes from. Waiting on the "ideal" sight picture sight picture made me less fluid in my motions as I found myself wanting to stop and set-up each target array. This change in mindset has not really changed the % of points I shoot in matches but man are my times better as I am so much more fluid.
I didn't have this "problem" so much in PD, but when I went open and that dot revealed every tiny wobble of the gun, I felt that if I wasn't steady and centered I wasn't going to hit. Now I feel if it's -somewhere- on the A-zone I break the shot and from there call the lift to see if it actually went where I wanted. And people told me open was easy!
Maybe that makes my previous post more clear?
-rvb
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But If I could make a mental switch to see the target as an entire C zone at 12" wide that would help me start shooting faster.
When I can do a rewind on my mental video = sometimes I can remember adjusting the dot inside the A zone to center the hit.
I started in idpa ("C" hits can KILL your score), went to production ("A"s are oh so important) and then went to open (major scoring? huh? what?). Getting myself to hurry up and not shoot all As has been a focus of mine this season. However, the A zone is STILL my target. I still think of a C or D as a "miss" (it's not where I was aiming), but a C is now an "acceptable miss." I no longer worry if I'm on the edge of the target [aka A-zone]... I go for it! My times are so much faster (if you're willing to "miss" then your time spent entering/exiting positions is faster, shooting on the move is faster, etc) and heck I still shot 94.x% of the available points this past weekend.
My point is this... if you view the C zone as your acceptable target, how many more Ds/Ms will you throw out there. The goal is to "accept" more C's, not to also accept more Ds/Ms. Be careful of making the C-zone your target! Still consider the A-zone to be your goal, but understand if you shoot fast enough to "miss" it will be caught by the C.
Just my thoughts on the matter and the "ideas" that helped me begin to get past the same hurdle you're encountering.
-rvb
ps. I still haven't cleared the hurdle myself... but I don't crash into each hurdle as I run like I used to! haha....
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most modern designs do not take into account any maintainence issues.
Have to disagree here, Jim
... they've taken maintenance into account alright... they design everything in such a way that makes even the most "do it yourselfer" have to take it to a dealer. And we all know the shop is where most dealerships make most of their profit. I can't imagine the two truths are a coincidence.-rvb
edited to add: why is it when I pay someone else do the work for me, I end up going back and doing it right myself? I recently took my truck in for new brakes all around. I had let them go too long and I just didn't have time to get it done so I sucked it up and took it in. They didn't reassemble the parking brake correctly so now I have to fix that. On top of that I had them put in new tie rod ends. They didn't tighten down the lock nuts on the alignment arms so I had to go buy a 1-1/2" wrench to tighten up their work. It's only because I want to keep my criminal record clean I didn't go back and tell them what I thought of them. Man I am still pissed about it. I think the brakes and tie rod ends cost like $1200.
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here's what I use:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...&lpage=none
1200lb capacity should hold your range bag and lunch.
BIG wheels means it's easy to pull over sand, rock, loose gravel etc. You'll hate anything w/ skinny wheels.
A little big, but has dual duty working around the house. I put a big beach umbrella on mine and built a rifle rack for it. Easily carries mine and my shooting buddy's gear (cooler, range bags, folding chairs, etc for two people). Need a pickup or SUV for match day though (sides fold down and it fits under the cover on my truck bed). Fellow shooters made fun of its size at first.... until they want to stand under my shade, get out of the rain, or need a place to stand and load mags...
-rvb
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I'll get back on it! 
below the chin area 
square trigger guard on a single stack frame
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted · Edited by rvb
Ghost holsters. I intended to use the .45 I built in L10 sharing the ghost I use in open, but I'm not inclined to use it now since I discovered the ghost can pull the trigger when used w/ a round trigger guard. .
So I'm thinking I want the next one I do to have a square guard.
-rvb