ncrivello

I'd like to see this 1 sec reload. Was just fooling around with my new X95 Tavor. Whoever said reloads were a pain is full of it.... on the clock, shot to shot (dry fire) and releasing bolt can be done consistently in ~2.0 sec without much effort. You don't even have to break your cheek weld to do so. Hope to land a 9mm kit for it so I can play in PCC.

Novak replied to my email; The Novak ALM01 I linked to paired with a .225" tall front sight are the correct parts for this slide.

Found it: http://novak.hydrabackoffice.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1100491&CAT=9455

That's what I'm thinking. I have an email out to Novak to see what options they have. That front 'lip' is what's throwing me; some sights have the lip flush with the dovetail and some are extended out further like this slide accommodates. I read elsewhere that this is an "old-style" adjustable Novak mount. Edit: Looks like a Colt variation of the Novak? http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/sights/rear-sights/1911-adjustable-rear-sights-prod41869.aspx The standard R1 slide has a derivative of the standard GI/government dovetail that is proprietary; the enhanced models have a standard novak cut. The slide I have is different and doesn't appear to have been offered on a production R1 thus adding to the mystery for me.

Having trouble figuring out what sights this Remington slide will accept. My caliper puts the cut right at .500" so I'm pretty sure it's a Novak or Hienie dovetail; but which variation? https://www.cdnnsports.com/1911-slide-stainless-remington.html?___SID=U

He just installed it, with only 150 rounds through...

The RO is a good suggestion. It would be a ~$300 investment to get some bomar sights on there. Another $2-500 for misc upgrades.

Hello, My dilemma is whether to build up the Springfield GI (milspec) that I inherited for single stack and CDP. The problem is that this gun has the silly little GI sights on it. The slide will require machining to allow for the Bomar style setup I have my eye on. I'm wondering if this is cost effective since the slide has a pretty sloppy slide to frame fit. The alternative is to get new slide from Caspian or Fusion that is already machined for the sights and fit it to the frame. This would require fitting the existing barrel or better yet, a new barrel altogether for optimum results right? Even though the gun was free, the cost of getting it setup with decent sights may mean that starting out with something like a Sig TTT or Kimber gold match makes more sense since they are more or less ready to go. This is because there are other parts I'd like to replace; a magwell in order dump the ILS and effect efficient reloads, an ambi-safety (I'm a lefty that shoots ambidextrous), a longer trigger to get my finger in the right place, a beavertail with raised safety since it feels like my grip doesn't hit the existing grip safety correctly.... If only the gun was a loaded variant, I'd have a decent starting point! Thoughts?

I've been switching hands while on the move, so it isn't really costing time I think. There are instances where taking a shot left handed makes sense, barricades for instance. At the last match there were several courses of fire that had right handed shooters contorting themselves to make a shot that was quite easy for a lefty to make. I agree breaking the grip to switch is potentially losing time; what I've tried is just switching once where there might be a clear advantage to so. i.e starting left and finish right or vice versa. I've got the holsters squared away, as blade tech has lefty holsters for both my glock and sig.

This is good to know. That Teklock/inner belt compatibility issue is what's pushing me to the outer belt; the fact that it's 10x stiffer doesn't hurt either..

For my 6' 160lb skinny ass, I can confirm that the outer belt in conjunction with the blade tech teklock mount and owb holster meets the dowel test. Your mileage may vary...

While troubleshooting a magazine release issue, I discovered that the mag release on the 226 is reversible. Sweet!!

Thinking it could be the magazine release, i removed it and polished it up a little. That didn't seem to help.. On a whim I decided to push the magazine follower down anytime it got stuck, and this seems to temporarily alleviate the problem. Could this be a follower or magazine lip issue?

I'm kinda leaning away from a spring issue since it's very much broken in. Unknown on the round count but it's definitely seen a few! I took the slide and grips off to better evaluate what was going on. Upon further assessment I think it's the polymer portion of the magazine rubbing on the magwell. I'm going to try touching the sides of one mag very lightly with a dremel or sandpaper and see if that cures the problem

Hi I just started shooting IDPA/USPSA, my 5th match was last weekend. I could use some feedback/tips from those who are ambidextrous. I've found that I'm ambidextrous when it comes to shooting handguns. Each hand is slightly better at various aspects of the skills needed for practical shooting however. I'm right eye dominant and write left handed. I seem to shoot better with respect to accuracy lefty but right hand is stronger. I've sometimes switched hands mid-stage as I'm presented with different shooting positions/sequences. Has anybody done this with success? Is it recommended? I have a Glock 17 and Sig p226 that I've alternated between (SSP/Production). Dry fire practice is helping me to figure out which gun is better from an ergonomics and fire controls perspective. The reloads are tough for me to get below 1.5 sec with either hand on the Glock; whereas with the Sig I can get 1.0-1.2 right handed, add .2-.3 for left hand. The DA trigger is a drawback, but a reduced hammer spring made a huge difference. The Glock seems to transition quicker, but the ergonomics and controls of the 226 are more comfortable both R and L handed. The 226 also has that great SA trigger.. I need to practice draws for both hands with each gun to see which is better before deciding which gun to stick with. Thoughts from the peanut gallery?

I hadn't thought of that, I will have to double check to see if it meets the standard.. I have a stingray/asr attachment that I could use, might be more challenging to get on though. On edit: That dowel test seems to favor more 'portly' shooters....

I just started shooting a west german p226 (circa '88); picked up four of the new 10-rd mec-gar nickel mags for it. They seem to function great and I love how they really 'pop' out when ejecting; but I've noticed that they will occasionally drop part way and stick when ejecting. All four will do it randomly, loaded or unloaded. I can grab a mag, load/unload 10 times in a row perfectly, and then it might randomly stick. I have another all metal "made in the USA" mag that came with the gun, which doesn't experience the same issue but I don't use because of a feeding problem it has. I can't tell if it's the gun or the magazines. No unusual wear marks that I can discern. I did notice that once it sticks, if I push it back in and give it a good smack on the basepad it will sometimes eject properly. I can't tell if the resistance is towards the top of the magazine or if the polymer bottom half is getting caught. Any insights? Thanks!

I have a DAA inner/outer belt setup. The IDPA rule book has three requirements for belts: 1.) Must be <1.75" wide 2.) No thicker than 7.9mm (5/16") 3.) Must pass through all but two belt loops. From reading through various thread on belts and the few matches I've attended (I'm a new shooter); the general consensus is people are using the inner belts or dedicated/thinner belt for IDPA. I measured the DAA outer belt; my digital calipers indicate that it is 1.53" wide and exactly 7.9mm thick. It also passes through all but one of my belt loops. Both my holster and mag pouch use tek-lock, so I can just clip them on after passing the belt through the loops. Seems to meet the rule set; any reason why I can't use it?