evilbeef54
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Posts posted by evilbeef54
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Nevermind that edit.... tried a lil more polish, back to 100% fail rate, not sure the trigger is the issue, or at least that part of it
It is so close to being there, like less then a hair movement, the slightest touch on the back of the trigger resets it, something is just not quite there YET***edit #8,746
I THINK possibly, i may be able to say with a small level of certainty victory. I tried several more different angle bends on the connector feeling how that changed it, still was damn close but just not quite there, i went back to the stock trigger spring AGAIN, and now it it seems to be working. I just had about 20 times in a row of manually cycling and dry firing and it fully engaged. I am still a bit concerned on how close to the edge of the line functioning it is, i am concerned that once i dirty it up shooting it i may run into issues, i have a few more days of practice before my next match so we shall see.
again if anyone has any other ideas on what to check/adjust/improve i would love to hear it, it is still a little too close to the line for my comfort
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Do not say screw it and try to live with the 5.5 lb spring haha, we'll figure it out eventually.
With the slide off, pushing the trigger forward and backwards, is it smooth? Is it pivoting well/smoothly on the trigger pin? Is the trigger pin bent? Slide catch installed properly to not effect trigger pin?
Installed, when you pull back on striker lug, is it smooth? The spring cups installed correctly so the end of spring isn't on the end/edge of cup?
LOL, i dont think i would be able to leave it alone it i wanted to i would probably have a stroke ok here we go:
trigger feels smooth moving back and forth, it pivots and goes to full motion with no rough spots, grinding, gritty, or warped feeling. Trigger pin does not appear to be bent, and the gun in new (less than 1k rounds)
i have dissassembled and reassembled it numerous times, so i dont think the slide catch is the issue unless i installed it incorrect every time, but i dont think i did, everything seems to function well.
when the top end is assembled the striker cycles smooth by hand. it i hold the slide vertically with the barrel down, i can push the safety plunger and the striker will fall into firing position on it's own. i can move it back to retract the striker till it seats with no pressure, i can cycle it through its full range of motion smoothly with no rough spots felt
checked and rechecked the spring placement on the cups the end of the spring is not on the joints
Have you checked the channel liner?
i'm not sure how else to check it besides getting in there with a q-tip and clean the best i can, what else should i be checking
^^^^^EDIT
i MAY have had a small positive gain, i polished the inside of the locking block a bit last night, that seems to have helped a LITTLE, i am now down to about a 12-20% failure to fully re-engage the trigger safety on a slow reset, i will get in there and polish a bit more and see if that helps, but PLEASE by all means, anything else you think will help please let me know, i want to get this running as good and as SAFE as possible
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Right handed, turn towards gun. shoot targets left to right. reload. shoot right to left. Whether the uspsa classifier or the string in idpa this is what i do. only difference is the reload.
i see i lot of people do this and for those that do it on purpose i don't really understand it, particularily if you know you are faster going left to right which a lot of right-handers seem to be ...
for me, as i execute the reload and rebuild my grip the gun naturally is pointing right back at the left target so shooting left to right, reload, shoot left to right seems the simplest thing to do ...
I have been running left to right, reload, then right to left, only because that is the way i have always run it in the military, however that is because most of the time we do it left to right with rifle, bolt lock transition to pistol then pick up where you ran dry re-engage and run right to left. I may have to start trying left to right on both sweeps to see if i am any faster, it seems like you might be or at least less prone to over penetrate on focal shifts from one to the other because you are moving in the direction of your strong side and dominate eye. But i dunno, i have a lot of muscle memory things that can trip me up here, like the 180 turns, we have always been taught to turn 180 forward because you know what is in front of you, not backward cause there may be someone in the stack or someone/something who moved behind you. I havent broken the 180 turning forward but the RO and others in the squad always say something about it. I have been working on turning backward and was never very comfortable with it until one of the guys told me "just do an about face movement" that did the trick, haha.
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Next question:
Assuming right handed shooter...
do you prefer to run left to right, reload, left to right again
Or
Left to right, reload, right to left
I see the benifits of both. Both strings right to left maybe faster focal shifts since you are always going in the direction of your dominant eye.
Reversing direction you are on the same target you just were on after the reload so your body is already set for it.
We run el prez a lot at work and i just got into USPSA. In the military it seems everyone does the reverse direction thing. Many of the USPSA local guys seem to do the same direction thing
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I dont have a magwell yet, ordering one in the next few days, i just moved to L-10 yesterday.
it could be the trigger is tight in there, any thoughts on what to do about that?
i have already polished the bar and all other metal on metal connections, i could maybe polish the inside of the locking block?
ok i could just say screw it and live with the 5.5# striker spring... but that just isnt in my nature, i want things to work correctly... honestly i am fine with the 5.5 if i have to BUT i am not fine with the fact that it wont work with the 4# when it should. Too OCD for that, lol
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yup, that is how i have been running it for the last 1.5 months stock 5.5 striker spring with ghost everthing else. It works, i just cant figure out why the 4# spring wont..... also on a side note, anyone else had trouble with the maratime cups, i figured less surface area= less resistance, so hopefully sucess... but no, they were even tighter than the stock cups and would bind up the stock striker spring, so that was a step backwards...
but yes, 5.5# striker and lighter everything else works, i just know i can/should be able to get that 4# working as it is supposed to, kinda frusterating
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Tried the stock return spring w/ the ghost connector, tried the stock connector with the ghost spring. The only combo i havent tried it stock everything with the 4# striker spring. However, i dont think i should have to do that. It should be able to work with everything.... i think
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huh, ok so to add to things, i tried the maritime cups with the stock spring, they seemed even tighter trying to get the stiker into the gun, an i got the same results with the stock srtiker spring, stock connector, and just the maritime cups. This is leading me to thing there is something with the striker spring chamber?!?!?!
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ok, sorry that took a while to get back to you, work was a bit crazy, and finally got to shoot a match today. I just had the 5.5# stock spring in to make sure nothing went wrong
so i tried swapping back to the stock connector just now. It still wont fully reset the trigger to the point of re-engaging the trigger safey if i go slow on the reset with the 4# striker spring. Basically the exact same thing with the stock or the ghost evo 3.5, it resets 99.999% of the way there but needs a little push forward to fully reset, i have taken out and cleaned the assembly numberous times. wiped down the striker and spring, got into the striker chamber with q-tips, even tried the ghost maratime spring cups (figured less surface area might be the trick. When i go to insert the striker it feels like there is some tension when the assembly starts to enter the chamber, it goes it with out issue, just doesnt feel as smooth as it should/maybe could. It doesnt really take any real force, but it sure doesnt seem to go smoothly either, starting here:
that is with the stock cups and 4# spring it just feels a little gritty going in. That makes me think it is part of the issue, This sounds like the area you are talking about, i just dont know why i would be having troubles with the reset if this is normal?
Both the stock and 3.5 ghost evo connector failed to fully reset the trigger
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I will try the stock connector tomorrow afternoon and report back. Thanks for all your help
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S shape, checked, and checked again. The spring rides nice and square in the pocket with no binding. When moving the assembly manually while out of the gun the only area of binding tension is where the housing makes that step up toward the front half. I triple checked the connector angle using a piece of paper as per the ghost instructions. When i reassemble the gun there is a slight bit of tension where the bump in the connector meets the back cap of the slide. All of this may be normal, but i am always looking for areas that can be smoothed out. I have been working on custom build competition paintball guns since the early 90s so i am used to respringing and eliminating tiny burrs to get things running smooth.
How much friction should there be on the striker assembly, specificity the plastic sleeve when installing it into the slide. I may be able to take another degree or of the connector, but since i am shooting a match on sat i will wait on that. i am trying to check the slide assembly as well to see if there are any issues there. Honestly i am kinda disappointed at how the top end slides on. When reassembling i get the back of the slide to about the mag well before the slide shifts to the right a few degrees, then it comes back with a little help when it gets to the aft rails.... binds again when the connector enters the slide. when taking it apart there are a few more trigger pulls and shaking/jerking required than normal but it does come apart
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Thanks magsz and polymer, it sure is where the side and connector meet/release. I will double check the instructions to check the angle. It doesn't seem to prevent proper cycling. I am just trying to get it to cycle as smooth as possible. And trying to figure out why it wont fully reset the trigger with the 4#. Mostly trying to get it all as smooth and fluid as possible
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The trigger spring appears to be in correctly and not pinching. Also i think the angle on the connector is fine, i checked it with a piece of paper like the instructions said. I can try to tweak it in a touch and see if it helps.
It is really close to fully reseting and re-engaging the trigger safety but not quite there. Maybe something in the slide assembly?
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Ok thanks guys. Just trying to get this thing running as smooth as possible. Kinda OCD like that. That and trying to chase down the issue im having with the trigger not fully reseting with the 4# striker spring.
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Hey guys, trying to get the best performance out of my new glock 35. It has a ghost evo elite 3.5 trigger, polished connector and associated parts, reduced power safety plunger spring, polished safety plunger, 6lb trigger spring, lone wolf ss polished guide rod.
I have noticed there seems to be some binding on pulling the slide back, right at the point in the attached picture, right where the front of the slide is flush with the front of the frame there is some binding. Is this normal, is there anything i can do to smooth ot out. It still does it with out the barrel or guide rod installed
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Hey guys, totally new to custom guns. Trying to soak up all the info possible. Here is my current issue.
I have a new gen 3 Glock 35 (less than 1k rounds) with the ghost evo elite 3.5 trigger, polished connector and associated parts, reduced power safety plunger spring, polished safety plunger, 6lb trigger spring, lone wolf ss polished guide rod w/13# spring, and stock striker
I tried dropping in the 4# striker spring since this will be a uspsa only gun and i will be using federal match primers.
The issue is with the 4# spring the trigger reset is terrible. If i dryfire and go slow on the reset it will not fully reset, to the point where the trigger safety will not reset allowing the trigger to move rearward and the gun to fire with out contact with the trigger safety.
I know others are running this spring, any thoughts on what is up, EDIT** IT IS NOT the reduced power plunger spring, Something else?
Going back to the stock trigger spring didnt help either
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ok thanks
no i dont have a chrono yet, i plan on getting one, still a few things i need to get
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ok, sorry i hate to necro an old dead thread, but i am trying to search before posting the same thing over and over, and there is a ton of good info here BUT, i am new and still have a few questions:
Assuming that your gun will feed both RN and FN... or HP... or anything else... WHY would you chose one over another? Is one better than another accuracy wise/cleaner holes/etc? If your gun would feed any and you were able to purchace any why one over another.
And second, i'm sure it is here somewhere, but how does changing OAL effect accuracy.... i am just starting reloading .40 and so far i have been staying with the 1.125 stock length... assuming that a longer length would chamber properly i understand that it reduces the pressure, but how does that effect accuracy/recoil/anything else
I'm shooting my G35 in production right now so i am working on finding a good (for me) minor load. I am new to reloading and learning a ton. My last run of ammo that i will be trying this weekend is Berry's FP 180gr, 3.8gr WST, 1.125 OAL, .42 crimp, Federal Match primers. I have been trying to find a light recoiling accurate minor load, and tried playing with springs but honestly i didnt feel/see a difference with the 22# or the 13# or anything inbetween on the light loads, but i am used to shooting Gov Issued .40 on a stock service weapon, so anything is better, lol
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Hey guys, I searched and found a bunch of threads where everyone just said run a 13# recoil spring for minor and a 15# for major on a Glock 35. Here is my question specific to my gun though.
I am new to reloading and trying to get my ideal ammo for my Glock 35 in Prod so minor. Here is what i have so far:
180 grain Berry's FP copper coater, 3.8gr WST powder, 1.125 OAL, .42 crimp, Federal Match Primers.
even shooting these lighter loads i tried the following springs on my Lone Wolf SS polished guide rod, 13, 17, 22 (I also have a 15# and 20#)
It cycled with ALL of them, even the 22#. I didnt feel a real major change on recoil.
Before i started trying the different springs and the new batch of lighter ammo i shot about 150 rounds of some other reloads from the hotter batches i first made, just to get the gun dirty before trying the lighter stuff. Since the gun seems to cycle with the heavier springs, and neither the lighter or heavier springs seemd to have a noticable impact on felt recoil or accuracy (both kept everything in a 2-3" group at 7 yards with 10 rounds of rapid fire), should i run the heavier spring? Or will this lead to possible issues later with it not properly cycling. Or should i run the lighter spring this weekend just in case?
I was fairly suprised that none of the springs seemed to have a noticable feel difference, but then again i am used to shooting a few hundred rounds a week with a stock issued Sig 229 DAK so maybe i am just used to the heavier feel, everything is lighter and better on the glock than my service weapon, lol.
My gun is a new Glock 35 gen 3 with less than 1k rounds through it. 25 cent trigger job polishing on everything, Ghost Evo Elite 3.5 trigger, 6# trigger spring, stock striker spring (the 4# spring doesnt reset the trigger hard enough, if i slowly let go it may not reset all the way to the point where the trigger safety is inop), reduced power safety plunger spring, and the Lone Wolf SS Polished Guide rod with the springs listed above.
Any advice someone can give (with reasons would be great) on any of my set up (rounds, springs, etc) would be appreciated. I have another match on Sat and obviously would like the best performance, but would like it to run properly, safely, and efficently.
Thanks,
Doug
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Ok, great thanks. And yes i am definitely going to look into reloading. I haven't gotten into that yet, not really sure where to start, Google and the forums lol. reloading definitely seems like something i should do.
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Thanks guys, appreciate the info Josh. What is the reason between jumping back and forth between the two divisions like some people seem to do?
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Hey everyone, I am Doug. I have just joined USPSA in the last month and am horribly addicted. I am active duty military on a tactical law enforcemet team, so much of the shooting we do every week is very similar to USPSA. In fact that is how i got involved, my team trains every week at the same range my club shoots at and i saw a course of fire taped to a barrel and thought, well damn that looks fun. I ran out and bought a Glock 35 and joined up. I did the first safety class day at the start of the month and did my first full match Sat. I ended up 3rd in production for the day so i was happy, i definitely made one mistake which cost me some points but live and learn. Not bad for the first match. So far i have polished everything inside (25 cent trigger job), installed the ghost evo elite 3.5 trigger and trigger/striker springs, f/o front and rear sights, and grip tape. I am absolutely loving the new setup. Besides the SS guide rod and the mag plug, and maybe a extended striker (but i am still running factory ammo) i think i have done everything possible in production for this setup. I am looking at maybe stepping up into limited, again though i am reading the rule book, and looking into everying here, and wondering what else can be done. Obviously mag well, and base plates, but i am seeing some custom slides online like ZEV, but not hearing a lot of feedback on them. Are these a)legal b)adventagous in limited. Anything else you would suggest?
Additionally i know some of the guys bouce back and forth between production and limited, why would you do that, what is the reasoning between one or the other?
issues with 4# striker spring on Glock 35
in Gun Springs
Posted · Edited by evilbeef54
I was trying very tiny changes in the angle on the ghost connector
yes with the stock trigger spring in it is a very solid and audible reset, even if i go slow, with the ghost 6# trigger spring and the 4# striker spring it is not as solid, especially when i go slow
EDIT
actually i guess that is not quite correct, with the 6# trigger spring it is still a solid and audible reset but after the click it just doesnt have the strength to get the rest of that tinny lil .001mm to fully reset the trigger safety. the trigger safety pokes about 1/2 way out but wont click into place so you could fire again with just touching the side of the trigger