evilbeef54
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Posts posted by evilbeef54
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i have not been checking for setback. If i find i do get set back what do i need to change?
Evil, The Big Problem with loading .40 major is using
heavy bullets and fast powder, iff you get any bullet setback,
you have a serious pressure problem.
If you are getting it, you need to size the cartridge cases more
tightly (that increases the neck tension on the bullet, and prevents
bullet setback.
That's the biggest thing to look for in loading .40 major - so I'd
work my way up to major very slowly, and carefully.
ok i made 10 dummy rounds and pushed them hard down against my bench, not getting any set back so that i good
Case: HornadyTwist: 1:16"Primer: Winchester SP, Small PistolBarrel Length: 4"Trim Length: .845BULLET WEIGHT180 GR. BERB FP (Berry's)
Winchester WSF 400 1.125
Starting Loads
5.5 952 27,600 PSI
Maximum Loads
6.0 1,020 33,500 PSI
this is from the Hodgen website
I would use the same head stamp for chronoing and competition shooting
I use winchester cases
case wall measures .011"
so case wall*2+bullet diameter gives you the crimp measurements
.011*2=.022+.400=.422"
I use S&S coated lead diam=.401" my crimp set to .423"
i set the chrono between 10 to 12 feet
target is set at 20yds
i use a shooting rest
i look for groups sub 2" 170 to 175 PF
or 130 to 135 for minor
i make 25 rounds and shoot 10
for the powder bullet combination i will keep
low sd and es is great but the grouping are what's
going to matter the most and the avg velocity
what most people don't know you can
actually loosen the case tension by over crimping,
and end up sizing the bullet diam smaller.
I'm shooting out of a Glock 23 using the OEM barrel
i have my crimp set to just barely knock out the belling, it is right at 4.2, i checked some dummy rounds i took apart and the crimp is not indenting into the bullet. I will try the next chrono session with the same case heads, i was hoping to not have to sort all the brass as i get my brass from police/military/civilian range pick up so i have a few thousand rounds of once shot .40 most of it is FC08, but i also have speer, win, winchester, federal, and a bunch of nickle plated in speer and federal. That is probably a good idea though to run matched case heads during matches, at least bigger matches, although im not sure the mismatched case heads would cause more of a accuracy deviation than i would, haha. The accuracy from a bench seemed good but i am concerned with the speed/felt recoil consistency definitely, i would hate to have some rounds come up short of major at a match that they are checking, and of course i just want everything as consistent and running as good as possible.
I appreciate everyone's help. Still thinking i may return this chrono and try a different brand as i am having several issues with this one.
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ok so i tightened the shell plate, I even took the bell back down to .427 so it wasnt too wide to fit in the tiny little entrance to the lee die, still running into issues every 10 rounds or so, i am getting seriously frusterated with this lee die, had they just flared the entrance to the die or left it a bit wider like the dillon die there wouldnt be an issue. I am about to swap back to the dillon die and return this lee set unless anyone has any other ideas. I hate to give up on it, but it kinda destroys the idea of a progressive when you have to take a LONG time to get the bullet seated PERFECTLY up and down or else you crush the case
edit*** that is it i had enough!!!!! i tried to press out 20 rounds for the chrono tomorrow and destroyed 3 cases in that 20 rounds, and that was taking 20-30 seconds PER ROUND to raise it to the top where the shell first contacts the seating die then wiggling it to get it to slip in if possible, even with the small belling some just wouldnt go. Luckily i bough these through Amazon, these are going back, the opening just isnt big enough to work properly. I switched back to the dillon die and pressed out 100 quickly with zero issues
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ok great thanks, another concern of mine. do you guys leave powder in the hopper or empty the hopper back into the bottle when you are done working for the day? I have just been filling up the hopper and not emptying it when done reloading for the day, then i thought about it and am wondering if this could cause any issues with temp/humidity, as compared to emptying it back into the bottle every time. My setup is in my detached garage, and next to a westerly facing window so it does get afternoon sun daily, and although i do live in Northern California so the temps arent too bad the garage is not heated (or AC)
This question you need to go to the search function for.
yeah, thanks, i found the answer to that one, lol, meant to come back and delete that, hah, i emptied the hopper btw -
At that kind of range, onto a full size target, you shouldn't even be looking at the sights. While you are looking at the target, simply be aware that the back of the slide is in the neighborhood of the A zone (black square somewhere kinda in the middle of the brown), and be pulling the trigger.
On the turn and draw, I usually start with my feet very close together, and pivot on my right heel, and the ball of my left foot, snapping my head to the first target. As I pick up my left foot to step forward I am drawing the gun. During a very good turn and draw the first shot should be breaking before you even have set down your foot from the step.
While what CHA-LEE is saying about a blazing fast draw not winning matches is true, it certainly is one of the foundational "classifier" type skills that Andersen talks about in his book quite a lot. Having a 1.2 draw to a 10 yard popper, or a .9 draw to a 7 yard open target kind of thing certainly does help with shooting good classifier scores.
I was working on the turning on the right heel all week, definitly like that better, thanks for that tip. I put that to use yesterday and it felt good and solid!!
I agree with both sides of the argument (not that it matters). Let's lay it to rest. Do you need to have good consistent draws and reloads to be a GM... yes. Is it the biggest factor holding a shooter back from doing well at a match... heck no... unless you are an M/A class shooter that is deficient in that area. That being said you will need that skill later down the road to make the bump to GM so should you practice it... YES. Do it as a warm up for your dry fire every day, don't hang up on it until its perfect. Anywho, enough rambling, I think the argument is at its' conclusion.
Efficiency of movement is a big deal. This was something I worked on alot and I'm not just talking about in a stage. I naturally (because of my age) can move well, but there are plenty of people who move better.
As for the draw, break it down into parts, analyze your movement. For me on a surrender draw I start with my off hand in a consistent place every time (for me it's my thumb under the bill of my hat by my temple. Build a system of consistency, then it'll be subconscious.
For my draw hand it starts off on the gun. I feel the perfect grip (for me I index again with my thumb on the inside of my holster...consistency!)
Then I rotate my draw arm only at the elbow, why? Efficiency of movement. The less body parts I have to move during any movement = faster times and most importantly, consistency.
Try it and see what you think. You can apply it to any type of draw.
Thanks for the tip on this. I started putting this into my practice routines and shooting, i have noticed a big improvment already, before i was just lining up and drawing and reling on muscle memory, which is ok with my service weapon i practice with all the time and fine when not doing one of the qual coruses that requires quick timed shots from a draw. It also didnt lead to a good consistent grip on the Glock (which is dramatically different grib then my sig 229, haha) from the draw. I started establishing a good grip on the holser then rolling my hand into position at the shoulder, it has been more consistent and led to better accuracy. Definitely helped in the qualifier yesterday (end of the video below) Watching the raw video in slow mo again looks like draw to first shot was about 1.3 and my head bobbed a bit, ended up with a time of 3.59 two A's on paper on 99-62. If you guys have time i would love to get some suggestions on my match yesterday, you all have helped a lot
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hmmm.. ok i have 5 lbs of WSF so i need to make it run the best i can for now, i have heard others saying that TG loaded to major can have pressure issues, is this true?
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any way to get the video louder? i have youtube and my computer to 100% and cant hear what you are saying
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Thanks Jack,
I'm having a ton of fun and trying to learn as much as possible, everyone here has been super helpful
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hey guys, i found a ammomaster chrono at a local shop and picked it up yesterday, price was $139. I took it straight to the range to start testing some ammo, seems like an easy set up, i like the ability to have the screen at my table. However i did/do have a few issues. I picked up some brand new 9v batteries to use with it.
I did have once where it hung up at the rcbs splash screen and wouldnt do anything till i pulled the battery, then it wouldnt turn on for about 5 min, it decided to come back to life and i was able to turn it on and off with out issue after that.
I cant seem to review the logged shots... at all... Luckliy i wrote them all down on a piece of paper too, but i did 7 strings of 10 rounds each, it apparently saved them but i cant seem to acces them and never got to see the SD, ED, stats screens. When i hit stats it just says 11.535, if i hit the buttons to scroll left or right the arrow moves under the labels for high, low, avg, es.... but the screen just says 11.535....
I am real close to just saying screw it and taking this thing back to the store (if they let me return it) and ordering something else online, i need to be in the same price range though...
This is my first chrono and there is a chance that i am just not doing something right, i dunno
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What do you guys think of WSF for 40 major. I have about 5lbs of that, starting to try to work up a major load for the glock 35 (so restricted to 1.140-1.145 OAL)
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ok great thanks, another concern of mine. do you guys leave powder in the hopper or empty the hopper back into the bottle when you are done working for the day? I have just been filling up the hopper and not emptying it when done reloading for the day, then i thought about it and am wondering if this could cause any issues with temp/humidity, as compared to emptying it back into the bottle every time. My setup is in my detached garage, and next to a westerly facing window so it does get afternoon sun daily, and although i do live in Northern California so the temps arent too bad the garage is not heated (or AC)
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Hey guys, had my 4th USPSA event today, this was my second time in Limited 10 (i shot my first two events in production before moving over to L10 2 weeks ago.) I would love any advice, suggestions, tips, techniques, critiques you guys are willing to provide. Thanks! Some notes of today
My wife got me a new Zev Stainless magwell and heavy brass plug for our anniversary 2 days ago and it was the first time shooting with it. I liked the weight of it, but i had a few issues since the extended base plates i ordered for the mags were apparently on backorder so there was a few times the mag didnt fully seat just right.
Also on run #1 i was the second guy to shoot it and we were all discussing how to best go about dealing with the array through the porthole since it was 2x 2 big poppers in front of each other that have a bit of a delay in falling. I tried to game it a little too much and tried to do a steel/paper/steel to let the first steel drop... this was a poor decision i know now, lol. It probably would have been faster/smoother to just do steel, pause steel, paper steel pause steel. with the reload on the way there at slide lock now going as smooth as i wanted and all the back and forth i through a shot let that get in my head for a second then threw two more. That sucked i know...
Any other advice you guys have would be greatly appreciated
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Im still trying to figure out how to get this rcbs chrono show me the avg, sd, ed stats, when i hit stats it just shows 11.595 and i can not scroll to anything else, lol
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Thanks for the quick reply, i have not been checking for setback, just chamber checking any hand cycling through the glock then checking again. The sizing die is the dillon one. If i find i do get set back what do i need to change?
I will try that withthe powder it sounds close to the same as what I'm doing just a few more times thrown in which will probably help
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Hey guys i finally got a chrono so i could start testing some different ammo i loaded. Everything was shot through my Gen 3 Glock 35 with a stock barrel, all loads were mixed case heads once shot range brass dry tumbled. I am still very new to reloading, i have made only about 1000 rounds and have been chasing down little issues here and there in my techniques and the used dillon 550 i bought
temp was 77* F today, sunny, chrono was set out at 10 feet under the edge of the overhang so not in direct sunlight, lighting was consistent
The first load was one i had made a few weeks ago with my dillon 550 press, it was for when i am shooting production so i was just going for minor:
Berry's RNFP 180 gr, 3.8gr WST 1.125 OAL, Federal match primers, .42 crimp
825, 808, 825, 823, 829, 810, 819, 821, 806, 817
could go lower for production minor, accuracy was good, i am not sure but the velocity spreads seemed good
The next 5 strings were where i made some test batches for major. They were all with mixed case heads WSF powder, 1.140 OAL (1.145 seems to be the max i can get to go into my glock mags, and feed reliably when manually cycling so i backed it down to 1.140) and federal primers. I think the only changes to the press were I changed to a new small powder bar and spacer, and i installed a lee seating die so i could have a dial to get the OAL right.
I will be running Xtreme bullets for a while as i have 1k of these on hand so these were the first samples done
Xtreme 180 FPRN, 1.140 OAL 5.4gr WSF
956, 917, 894, 945, 946, 926, 903, 880, 931, 927
Xtreme 180 FPRN, 1.140 OAL 5.2gr WSF
888, 874, 897, 892, 885, 902, 871, 930, 933, 938 (these last few rounds and every string of fire below i moved 1 notch lower on the bench rest block so i shot about 2" lower)
Xtreme 180 FPRN, 1.140 OAL 5.0 gr WSF
865, 883, 832, 875, 868, 882, 868, 836, 869, 891
I also had some Berry's 180 Gr FPRN left over so i ran batches too so i would have data for future use, and to see what difference the length in bullet would have. again these were 1.140 OAL, WSF powder, mixed case heads
Berry's 180 FPRN, 1.140 OAL 5.4 GR WSF
921, 961, 940, 961, 952, 932, 949, 944, 944, 943, 946
Berry's 180 FPRN, 1.140 OAL 5.2 gr WSF
973, 952, 925, 948, 938, 916, 937, 923, 871, 926
Berry's 180 FPRN, 1.140 OAL 5.0 WSF
895, 887, 923, 902, 910, 882, 903, 895, 912, 880
This is my first time running ammo through a chrono, and as i said i am new to the whole reloading thing. I am trying to work up a good go to batch for USPSA Limited Major, so with the 180gr i need a min or 917 right? These numbers to my inexperienced eye look very erratic with large deviations, am i correct or is this normal. My procedure was to zero my scale with the tray on it, weigh out the powder adjusting until i got the ammount right, then press out a 10 round group at that weight. everything got mic'ed to check the length to make sure it was at or real close to the 1.140 i was going for, (1.138-1.142) then i would box up those ten rounds label it, and go about re-zeroing the scale and starting over for the next batch. I did have one that didnt get a primer picked up so it was a good round to take apart and i looked at the bullet and didnt see any indentations from over crimping, just barely scratches, more like rub marks, i basically had it crimping to remove the slight bell. Are these devations normal or no? knowing that i need at least a 165 PF, i think i would have to go with the 5.4gr loads, although the 5.2 seem like they could do it there are a few on the berry's and a lot on the xtreme that were under (admittidly the xtreme that were under were shot maybe an inch or too higher if that makes a difference). Hell, even two of the Xtreme 5.4 load were under PF. accuracy seemed good on everything, just concerned with the numbers being all over the place.
I would like any input, advice, suggestions you guys can provide here. Anything on my techniques, or suggested changes to the load. I am trying to get the most consistent, flattest shooting major load i can with what i have. Again any suggestions, thoughts, input would be of great help.
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ok guys, i just pressed out about 150 rounds getting ready for the chrono, here is what i found:
the plate, pins, funnel, etc are all the correct parts, it is belling evenly.
the mouth on the Lee seating die is WAY tighter than the mouth on the dillon die, so i cant bell the case too much or it wont fit, after a lot of back and forth i found a bell that is as big as will fit the seating die with a little clearance, and is not messing up the coating on the berry's or xtreme RNFPs i have.
The issue is still happening once or twice every 10-ish rounds. Since i cant bell it much at all i have to make sure the bullet is 100% straight up and down if not then it can move the case a degree or two which is all it takes for the case lip to hit the side of the die. This issue never happens with the dillon die because it is much wider and tapered at the mouth.
I think i now see what you guys were talking about with the shell plate tension, at first i thought it was tight, it wasnt really wiggling, but i went through and tightened the center bolt down a bit more until the case feed piston couldnt push the shell on to the shell plate and then i slowly loosened it until the shell was able to slide fully in, the plate still rotates smoothly. I pressed another 4 and even tried putting a bullet on not fully 100% straight up and down and i didnt have the issue. Once i am able to chrono this ammo and decide which batch i will press out a few hundred and see if the issue comes back. I really hope this fixed it. I like how the dillon die was easier to run a bit more bell and just kinda plop the bullet on top and keep going quickly, but i also like the dial adjustment on the lee die. If i am still getting this issue with the lee i may just go back to the dillon die or find a different brand of dial in/micrometer seating die.
Thanks for everyone's help, still new and a lot to learn
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Ok so i belled it a little more, now about the same as that case in the video, the case now won't even go into the die with out crushing... i did loosen the lock ring and run the handel up with an empty (unbelled) case then re tighten to make sure it was straight, i did install the die in my 550 as per the lee instructions, ran the handel up, screwed the die down until it touched the shell plate, then backed it out 3 turns. did i Need to do something different gor the 550?
I have seen elsewhere people saying to screw it down until it just touches a case?
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Thanks for the info guys. I bought this press and entire set up used a few weeks ago and have been practicing with it like crazy. I am trying to get a load for my G35 for limited major. that video was greaat, thanks, i definitely did not have enough bell. I will go ahead with the 1.145 for testing too, thanks, all my other loads have been 1.125
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Make sure the shell plate is adjusted properly. I'm guessing yours is too loose.
seems tight, any suggestions on checking it on a 550?
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How much bell do you have on the cases?
I am not familiar with a 550, however on a 650 you would also want to check to make sure your platform was tight. If the two bolts that hold down the platform (under the shell plate) become loose, it can make the dies off center (like the dies were loose). You can always call Dillon, they will help you figure it out. Good luck!
thanks, to be honest i dunno how much bell i have, everything i saw talked about setting it visually not by measuring anywhere, visually it is just barely wider than straight wall
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I don't see how belling would help the case line up any better. Remember that Dillon dies have a more open mouth to help center. I use a Redding competition die without problems. As I said, most problems of this sort are attributable to off center cases or the case slipping out of the shelpllate.
ok great, just wanted to make sure, i never had this issue with the dillon seating die, and only on the Lee if it is not perfectly up and down, just seems innefficent to slow WAY down to get the bullet seated 100% perfect on a progressive. I will defintely re-check with a shell in the plate and up top.
btw any input on the other questions if you have a chance would be awesome!!
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ok fighters back to your corners
lets please keep the side bar stuff to a minimum here. This thread was created looking for advice on one (well actually two) specific skill sets, no one said it was the ONLY area to improve upon, or the BEST area to improve upon. As was said there are areas that have a good impact (that i am already practicing in a practical environment with 60 extra lbs of gear). No one is questioning ANYONE's records here, this is meant to be a place for those of us who want help in a specific area to get advice. Please as this is MY thread lets try to keep it on topic, brutally honest if you must, as that is what i said and i do prefer honesty over trying to feign some sort of niceness and trying to imagine how others feel over textual communications. that being said it should be kept ON TOPIC please, brutally honest IF you have helpful input for this specific skill set, haha
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anything in the rules i missed about shooting with gloves. I shoot with gloves at work, and the P.I.G. gloves are amazing in the pouring rain
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another vote for pelotrs here, i have massive dumbo style ears and have no issues with my peltors
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welcome, this is super addicting, there is a LOT of great people here with a TON of amazing info. Everyone is very helpful, everything from reloading to skill building
May 2015 practice
in Video Training Tips
Posted
LOL, might be my laptop, sometimes i cant get it as loud as i want. What cam are you using? if it is a go pro are you using the open back? Sorry, i just know you have some good info there and want to hear what you have to say. I should probably just find a pair of headphones if it is working fine on your end, probably just me