tanfoglio1911
-
Posts
209 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by tanfoglio1911
-
-
tanfo, whether you like the 135gr bullets or not will depend on your comp and powder choice. You need a lot of powder to drive the 135gr bullets to Major. I'm using a 3-port Tanfo comp with the first port enlarged. Autocomp makes too much gas. The gun is dead flat, but so much gas goes out the front it is recoils back hard. I'm guessing that if you had a longer, more efficient comp, the barrel would actually dip when fired, not rise. I'm going to try it again with some faster powders such as Solo 1000 thru HS-6. I'm also have two bleeder holes cut into the side of the third port to bleed off more gas.
However, I'm pretty sure I'm going to stay with the 155gr because it was more accurate and a lot less violent. I'm loading to 1.126" so I have to be really careful with the pressures. You will be loading long, so you have a lot more leeway.
Thanks for the heads up zzt. Yes I got enough space for the powder and I hope that the bleeders can help me to handle that unexpected muzzle movement whether it will go up or down lol.
-
I tried developing loads for 40 Major Open using the Rainier 135gr copper clad bullet. With Autocomp, you can get the gun to shoot dead flat, but it is hard on the hand and incredibly loud. I have much better results using the Rainier 155gr TC or the 165 HP and N340 powder. The 165 at 170PF is not dead flat. The muzzle does rise, but the dot never leaves the glass. It is soft shooting and not ear splitting. Same with the 155. Just a touch less muzzle rise and a touch harder shooting.
Thanks zzt...
That is what I noticed too on the 155 and 165gr, that the muzzle does rise but the dot still remains in the window which is not bad for me. I am trying to see if I can find a good data or a good spot for the 140gr where it will work for me and to my pistol.
-
Just remember, each gun is different as well as the shooter. What works for me my not be the best for you.
You are absolutely right. I do hope that this weight will work for me and also to my gun.
-
I use 8.5 grains of Autocomp under a Rainier 140 gr. plated bullet. 1 inch at 25 yards accuracy and this load works great in my Witness Gold Team. Very quick dot recovery. It's a little loud but we are talking open here.
Thank you Big Nick. I am recently using a 165gr BBI and also used 155gr of Bayou but thinking of trying to see how these light bullets will affect the recoil.
-
Anyone has a recipe for 140gr 40 caliber major load for open pistol using HS6 or Autocomp powder? These will be use for my STI open. Thanks...
-
I am using this powder on my STI edge 40. Cheap, but has good accuracy and soft recoil.
-
Try to avoid trimming or removing materials on your grip/frame and work on the SVI trigger shoe. By doing this way, you will have 2 options to use in the future.
-
Pinned the two post and had able to put back the Ejector without any movement. Frame and slide glides very smoothly as it was originally. After the loctite will dry out, I will test and see if the ejector hold pretty well. So far very stable at this point. Thank you guys..
-
Do I need a new pin or just repin the old one? Thanks..
I agree 100 %. I squeeze and file down if needed where I can barely push it in with my fingers.
Be REAL careful doing this. If you ever break the ejector off of that leg (chances are very slim) you will play hell getting that leg out easily. I would LocTite it.STI just squeezes the pins in a vise. Talked to them a long time ago about this. I've done it on three different 1911/2011's since then, works great. Just go a little at a time.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
-
Ejector is still intact and I didn't see any dings or damaged on it. Maybe I will just give it try to remove the pin and see if it has worn out but if not, I will follow the advise of Shadow to squeeze the legs and apply Loctite. Which Loctite is good to use, the blue or the red? Thanks to everyone.
Either will work.
Again, go slow with the squeezing, a little at a time until it creates a tight fit.
-
Ejector is still intact and I didn't see any dings or damaged on it. Maybe I will just give it try to remove the pin and see if it has worn out but if not, I will follow the advise of Shadow to squeeze the legs and apply Loctite. Which Loctite is good to use, the blue or the red? Thanks to everyone.
-
Thank you.
So I can remove the ejector with the pin still in the hole? If I will apply loctite, which part of the ejector it should cover? Thank youOk, I just found out that the reason behind the dragging of my 2011 slide was caused by the ejector that became loose. Now I need help if I need to replace just the ejector's pin or the ejector itself. This is for 40 cal. and want to get some recommendations in terms of which brand I am going to buy. Thanks yall in advance.
If you can take the ejector off the gun, and nothing is broke, just squeeze one or both legs (the round pins on the bottom of the ejector that go in the holes in the frame) in a vise or gently peen them with a hammer. This will tighten the fit in the frame and solve your problem. Loctite and tap the ejector back in the frame and install the pin. Go slow, if you squeeze or tap too much, it will be difficult to get the ejector back in the frame.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
No.
There is a 3/32 pin in the frame that holds the ejector to the frame. if you remove the slide and look at the frame from the side, you will see the pin that holds the ejector in, in the groove that the slide rides in just below the ejector. This pin needs to be removed. Then the ejector will lift out if its as loose as you describe.
When the ejector is removed from the frame, you will see what looks like two pins extending from the bottom of the ejector. These are the "legs" I refer to above.
Once you have the ejector removed, you can see the relief ground in the front leg for the pin that AirCooled Racer is referring to. If you install a new ejector, you will have cut this groove as described above by AR, as the exact position varies from gun to gun.
With your current knowledge of 1911/2011's, I'd recommend you pursue the warranty and not try to fix it yourself. If you want to continue, google a blueprint for a 1911.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
When taking the pin out, will it be from right to left or the opposite? Thanks again
-
So I can remove the ejector with the pin still in the hole? If I will apply loctite, which part of the ejector it should cover? Thank youOk, I just found out that the reason behind the dragging of my 2011 slide was caused by the ejector that became loose. Now I need help if I need to replace just the ejector's pin or the ejector itself. This is for 40 cal. and want to get some recommendations in terms of which brand I am going to buy. Thanks yall in advance.
If you can take the ejector off the gun, and nothing is broke, just squeeze one or both legs (the round pins on the bottom of the ejector that go in the holes in the frame) in a vise or gently peen them with a hammer. This will tighten the fit in the frame and solve your problem. Loctite and tap the ejector back in the frame and install the pin. Go slow, if you squeeze or tap too much, it will be difficult to get the ejector back in the frame.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
-
The pin and ejector are still intact and attached but wobbling. Any link is available that can help me change the ejector will be a big help. Thank youHello: Is the pin still in there or is the leg broken on the ejector? Don't drill the new ejector if you need one. I use a die grinder to grind a groove in the ejector leg. I have have seen a couple of frames that were messed up with a left hand twist drill bit. I also had to remove a broken drill bit as well. Thanks, Eric
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
-
I am working on the warranty at this point of time. In regards to the magazine hitting the ejector, i am not aware of.. I bought this gun used and i knew 1 of the mags is tuned but the 2 were not. I don't have any knowledge or idea yet how to change the ejector, and was thinking that the ejector pin can be easily pinch out. ThanksSometime a new roll pin will tighten it up some. If it's STI you could call them and see if they would send you a new ejector and pin under their lifetime warranty. If so you will need a left twist drill to drill the notch in the ejector.
Also might want to see why it was loose. Do you have magazines hitting it when you insert them?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
-
Ok, I just found out that the reason behind the dragging of my 2011 slide was caused by the ejector that became loose. Now I need help if I need to replace just the ejector's pin or the ejector itself. This is for 40 cal. and want to get some recommendations in terms of which brand I am going to buy. Thanks yall in advance.
-
Thank you. I will try to post my finish grip here next time.Thanks and appreciate your advice. I might gonna do it this weekend. I was looking on something to use for stippling and think about a nail to use it as a tip but did not turn out good on my trial. I've done a lot of stippling on my Glock but not on my STI's. Is that just a regular metal screw that you used as tip?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
Correct. It started as a regular zinc plated flat head machine screw like this:
I used a dremel to grind down the head to the size and shape I wanted, then chucked it in a drill to sand down the shank to fit inside the soldering iron.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
-
Thanks and appreciate your advice. I might gonna do it this weekend. I was looking on something to use for stippling and think about a nail to use it as a tip but did not turn out good on my trial. I've done a lot of stippling on my Glock but not on my STI's. Is that just a regular metal screw that you used as tip?
Thanks, I did the entire grip, even the mainspring housing (I stippled it, then removed it while it was still hot, before it hardened into one piece with the grip). Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the underside or the MSH.
You, Sorry but my question did not went to your original post.
Are you asking me or trp?Did you stippled the whole entire grip or just the side? I'm sorry, but I can't see the whole angle from of your picture. Thanks and you did a great job on that stippling.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
-
Are you asking me or trp?Did you stippled the whole entire grip or just the side? I'm sorry, but I can't see the whole angle from of your picture. Thanks and you did a great job on that stippling.
You, Sorry that my question did not went to your original post.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
-
TennJeep1618
Did you stippled the whole entire grip or just the side? I'm sorry, but I can't see the whole angle from your picture. Thanks and you did a great job on that stippling.
-
1.185 OAL works pretty well on my Edge and Open 40 STI.
-
WSF is my favorite powder for limited and open STI in 40. Very soft!!
-
I had been using Carvers vertical mount before I switched to STI. Some good thing that I liked about Carver vertical mount is you don't need to do any modification on your slide and frame unlike SJC. The vertical mount is really a plus in open Glocks because It eliminates the problem of ejection. I was using a Glock 35 open and never really had a single malfunction while using it. For me, the vertical mount never really gave me a problem or obstruct my vision to look up the targets. The frame is kinda bulky but really give weight to the frame to help the recoil. The only CONS I found is the availability of holster you can use. I used a CR holster but there were a couple of times that my gun fell off or knocked off while moving around off the course of fire.
-
.
PT thumb rest.
Just starting to load 40cal major
in 10mm/40 Caliber
Posted · Edited by tanfoglio1911
To ArmyADub1 Is there any reason behind of why you are loading short BBI bullets. I am using 165gr for my open 40 and recently ordered their 180gr for my Edge. The reason behind I asked this because, I have lot of problem in feeding when loading 1.185oal to my open STI,. In short, I went to 1.155 and this oal work perfectly. I was thinking that you might also have a reason behind why you went down to that length or maybe perhaps we have the same problem. I am trying to quote on your post but my computer won't let me.Thank you..