Avenida
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Posts posted by Avenida
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the lubrication industry is one of those industries that sell the same product rebranded to fit a niche.
lol, guilty as charged. I bought so much of this stuff that I feel stupid.
I have settled for red and tacky grease, thinned down with whatever oil I have at hand. Been using it all summer and winter.
Never an issue.
And also recommended by the factory (SVI).
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all those slide cuts make me nervous. Wondering about slide durability.
I own a different brand with hybrid barrel btw so lots of material been removed too.
not bashing! Just admiring
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no photos, I have a 5.4. Post some up and I will take a look.
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haha going to revive this zombie thread to add my experiences:
if the grip starts wrong i.e too much finger wrapped around the front serrations of the grip and web of the hand not centered with the grip safety, you will never reach the release unless you have stupid long thumbs.
paying attention to your hand placement before the draw and practice this motion hundred of times has gotten rid of this bad habit brought over from smaller guns.
good news is once I did that, I can reach the release easily (I have small hands btw) and ALSO my grip has dramatically improve.
I will do a video if I have time!
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milestone?
get an SVI for race or if it is an occasional shooter check out Bunker Arms, he can a master piece.
Honcho and Atlas are not high end guns.
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slide glide seems like over priced RED and TACKY grease, it even smells the same, so it must be. Sorry.
I use whatever, they are all the same.
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20 hours ago, Sparky said:
I shot Ltd 40sw guns for several years. I think how long the barrel, slide & frame last depends on
how you have the gun sprung. The lighter the recoil spring the more potential damage you can do
to these parts. I always thought that a 12# recoil spring w/shok buff was the way to go. And for
years it worked well. Never had a slide crack, but did have two Scheumann Hybrid barrels crack
in the same place; one with 80K and the second with 15K. These were older (5-6 years ago) barrels
and Scheumann would not stand behind them saying they were fit to tight (not Will Scheumann).
Then on the second cracked barrel my STI frame cracked. However, STI replaced my frame. So if
I had it to do over again, I would use a 13 or 14 pound recoil springs. I've heard of these parts in a
standard build (bull or bushing barrel) last over 100,000 rds.
The old Scheumann used to crack. Was it an ISLAND barrel?
SVI used to use them, stopped when they realized of this issue and they now make their own.
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seems like 50K would be an acceptable minimum and a NO PROBLEM for these guns. After that is luck, so I was told by the people from Bul factory. They had guns reaching 200K but they said, it is unpredictable, after 50K you are on your own.
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going to resurrect this mega old thread looking for new opinions!
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I hope they fixed the grip, the 92 was very thick for me. If the ergonomics have been slimmed down I will in for one. I just sold all my tanfoglios and need something to replace it with.
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Thanks everyone.
I am hoping that someone with the exact same gun and powder/bullet can chime in and save me the hassle of finding a 3rd chrono as the last 2 I used gave me weird readings and / or did not work properly.
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anyone with the ideal OAL for a 2011 BUL pistol. The throat seems to be pretty deep and it will accept rounds as long a 1190.
I am shooting at about 1185 with no issues but wondering if someone has any other experience.
I am loading major loads.
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1 hour ago, Sarge said:
40 tends to bulge more than most 9mm so I would probably use a push through on it. I load 9MAJOR brass I pick up at major matches or buy cheap online or from local sellers when the price is right. I don't have enough problems with it to warrant anything other than using standard loading practices.
I don't follow you on the case head separations because of bulged brass being prevented by roll sizing. If it bulges and gets straightened back out it is still a weak spot per say. And if you load a piece of bulged brass without fixing it most likely that won't pass gauge or chamber anyway .
I agree with you partially because as mentioned that was my reasoning as well, 9mm brass is a different beast so I am basing my findings on reloading 40 major only, which tends to bulge a lot more than 9 and it is pretty obvious to the eye.
Bulged brass will chamber and pass a gauge most of the time, it does not some of the time but in most cases a resizing die will make any bulged brass fit a chamber, this is the problem because once it is loaded and in my 'ready to shoot bin', I will probably end up firing it.
Edit: The problem with this is that a sizing die will not size the web of the brass, instead it will push the bulge down and it will sometimes create an obvious crease on the brass, and this is were we see case failure separation. A roll sized brass has been brought to spec (I believe not exactly to factory spec but close, correct me if wrong) and therefore reducing the chances of case separation
Roll sized brass has a much longer lifetime than non roll sized brass according to the owner of Roll Sizer. I spent some time chatting about this with Kevin Whitehead, he is the owner of roll sizer and he would have a much better explanation about it than me as he can give you the dimensions of the brass once it is resized, but in a nutshell, they shoot .357 major loads and they can re-use that brass +30 times. I guess that is due to Australian regulations and the difficulties associated with finding shooting resources, bans on specific caliber, etc.
Long story short, it took me a long time to understand why it is a good idea to do it, but for me, after seeing too many people waste 2/3/4 thousand dollars in one click, not to mention my own safety by getting a metal shower, I will be definitely be investing in a roll sizer. It is mathematically a no-brainer.
Like many, my brass is picked up and who knows about the history of it.
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3 hours ago, Sarge said:
I get 99% or better with 9mm using a Hundo gauge. Loading with Udie. Not cleaning brass damages dies, so that's necessary. Swaging 5.56 is absolutely necessary unless you KNOW it isn't crimped. Trimming 223 can probably be skipped but why would you? Eventually it won't pass gauge. The object is to make ammo that is high quality and will chamber and fire in your guns. That can easily be done without dumping a bunch of money into a roll sizer.
Now if one wants to argue they WANT a roll sizer then by all means get one. But they certainly are not needed. Just like a bullet feeder in my opinion. I wanted one and I got one but it is a luxury for the vast majority of us shooters.
Use to think like you until I witness case separating way too often in shooters that shoot major loads with bulged brass.
Your experience will probably fit a lot of shooters that are loading .40 maybe minor? there I do not see as much of an issue as the pressure will be much lower.
I am not going for a bit more reliability only, if that was the case I would probably not spend the money on a roll sizer, I think that roll sizing would help in prevent case failure/separation as you are bringing it up to spec, that, coupled with a good load, good quality powder and die that doesn't undersize your brass and you have a recipe for success.
Please the brains of the reloading world correct me if I am wrong.
I am actually looking at this way because I am loading .40 major and I am considering a roll sizer for the above stated reasons.
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On 6/11/2019 at 12:36 PM, Sarge said:
Roll sizing is totally unnecessary
according to ?
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How is this even a question?
apples and oranges
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Just got a bul sas II
what an incredible machine.
I am shooting campro 180gr TC and wanted to know if anybody developed a load for that V320 and that bullet for this particular barrel.
dont have access to a chrono at the moment and using 4.7 gr of v320 cycles well but dont think it is making major. Feels super mega soft!!!
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On 6/18/2019 at 9:52 AM, CrashDodson said:
I received my powder measure that has been rebuilt for the second time now. I loaded about a thousand rounds last week and the measure seems consistent within 4.70-4.80 grains of ramshot competition that I use which is a flake powder and this was with garbage mixed brass that I didnt bother to clean all that well. I did not see any more issues with the powder measure sticking like I had before. I run mine at 2800 RPH with a few of the settings tuned such as bottom dwell and index getting an actual RPH of about 2600.
My buddy just got his updated revolution with a newer edition of the primer colater and ran several thousand 9mm with little trouble. He did have a few flipped primers but is going to be getting a new bowl or something like that soon that is supposed to help.
In the thousand that I loaded on my evolution the only stoppages I had were related to primer pull back which I guess I am just going to have to deal with. The decap sensor catches it, its just annoying with it happening 2-5 times per 100. This is using the first generation of the Mighty Armory decap die. Im unsure if it has been corrected since or if it just the brass I happen to have on hand. The other issue I would see is the bullet feeder dropping two bullets occasionally, no matter how many times I try to perfect the die. I had luck using rubber bands to hold more tension on the dropper but they dont last long. There is an aftermarket spring thing that fixes it but they want $30 just for shipping and I refuse. On the bullet feeder pro the brass piece is about twice the size and I imagine fixes this issue as well over the standard bullet feeder.
Just glue a piece of lead or brass to it. It just needs more weight. Make sure the cables are not pulling, use zip ties to bring them closer to the die and let them hang with lots of slack and no tension.
the dropper has to move fast or it will let one or many bullets down.
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8 hours ago, Tanfastic said:
What do you want to know? I have over 40,000 rounds through my very early Mark 7 Evo press, which I added the autodrive to after 10k rounds to make it an Evo Pro. Most of the "issues" that I had early on last year were addressed a while ago with new parts and those have all been incorporated into the latest version of the press. I think the bottom line is if you're mechanically inclined and able to troubleshoot problems, it's not difficult to keep this press running smoothly. I typically run several hundred rounds at a time with nothing other than needing to refill the primer tube. The vast majority of stoppages are non-issues that I clear and keep rolling, such as decap sensor errors. Occasionally I get a sideways primer or something like that as a hard stop that takes a few minutes to clear out. Simple test would be: Can you completely disassemble and reassemble your press? If so, you'll be fine.
Yea that is not an issue for me, know my Dillons inside out.
for me to purchase the Mark 7 I wouls have to sell the Dillon so dont want to be left hanging without a working press if I do get a mark 7.
I am very interested in since it seems well built. The new lyman acquisition concerns me a bit as this could mean a new set of growing pains and therefore lack of support.
Wondering if there is anybody here who has gotten a recent build just to see if these are trouble free.
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How do you run a Dillon powder measure on this press?
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Are all machines affected or only the ones with autodrive?
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I was thinking of upgrading to a Mark 7 but after reading all these issues I feel more like.... just keeping my 650.
can anyone confirm what is the status of the current Evolution presses. I can't afford to wait for a 'working' press of going through teething pains so if this is the case I will refrain from looking into this any further. thanks!
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Never heard of issues with the other two but Atlas... I will stear away from anybody claiming to be the best or to know it all.
Neither. Buy an SVI and be happy
to buffer or not to buffer, that is the question
in 1911-style Pistols
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You talked to the factories and they say no.
Lots of people swear by them and say it add longevity to the pistol.
It takes stroke away, it reduces impact of metal parts, it is useless, it is a gimmick, it feels weird, it feels great, blah blah.
At the end? who is right?
Besides all anecdotal information, what is you first hand experience.