MilkMyDuds
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Posts posted by MilkMyDuds
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If they did make a named model for him, he'd wait until the model debuted at Shot and then switch to Bersa just to be a pain.
Or Hi-Point for that matter
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When the "fun phase" passes with PCC, real competitors will start demanding stages of 50, 100 yards or longer. Why? Because there is just only this much you can test with gun handling. To truly demonstrate a good rifle shooter's potential, you have to give them mid to long distances.
Imagine those 3-5 yards hosing stages for handguns. Every handgun shooter like them if there is 1 or 2 of these stages in a club match. However, imagine every stage is like that... That would be what's like for the true competitors shooting PCC seriously stuck in handgun stages. I'd understand if they demand more stages of 100 yards distance. It's us who agreed to let them play in pistol matches after all.
I think the decision to accept rifles into handgun matches is NOT well thought out. The repercussions include certain cannibalization from other divisions during the initial "fun phase", plus heated debates on acceptable average target distance at local club/regional matches down the road.
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The checkering looks halfhearted. The rear sight, however, looks interesting. It appears to be a fixed sight. I wonder if it can be used on Stock 2.
For someone who already has a Stock 2, Lim Pro is still the best bet for IDPA. They have identical grips, etc. The Stock I looks like to have different grips.
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I put blue LT in the CLEAN, DEGREASED hole and screw. Then I let it sit overnight. Until getting obsessive on the clean and oil free, I had the same issue.
Thanks! I assume Acetone is what's used to clean out the Loctite and oil/grease, etc? I will try the Blue one more time with CLEAN hole and screw and report back
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You meant they realized they are not Ben, Eric, JJ, Nick, Alex, Russel or any of the 20+ GMs shooting Tanfo?
Surprise! -
I have used factory wood, Henning and SSI scale grips with no problems. Few hundred rounds on each.
The only issue is with the EGD extreme grips, and only on the right side grip. The left side grip has held tight through a couple thousand rounds (after I used blue Loctite). However, the right side grip becomes loose after 100 or so rounds even with blue Loctite. When it becomes loose, I can feel the panel moving a bit to start with, then the screw becomes loose and I can unscrew it easily as if no Loctite has ever been applied.
I noticed the backside of the screw area on the right side grip appears to be scratched, maybe due to movements/friction with the frame after it becomes loose. These scratch marks do not appear on the left side grip. And the frame of the gun around the screw hole is smooth with no obvious marks or burrs.
No problem when dry firing. Only becomes loose in live fire, after 100 or so rounds. I suppose the vibration is causing this? I am surprised Loctite cannot hold
What would be the best way to keep the right side grip tight all the time? Any suggestions? Should I try Loctite red? Besides using the original extreme screws, I have also tried using Henning screws. Same result. Always becomes loose after 100 or so rounds.
Thanks.
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Another technology is SoloShot - https://shop.soloshot.com/
I almost bought it but the 8 min setup time every time is a big hassle
I am not sure USPSA would allow drones on the stages, based on the latest BOD meeting agenda.
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The beaver tail on CZ SP01 Shadow bites too hard into my web. It feels bony and slippery.
Stock 2/Lim Pro feel more roundish and the checkering makes the grip solid.
BTW - It may sound counter intuitive as CZs are small frame while Stock 2/Lim Pro are large frame, but my short finger had a lot of trouble to reach the CZ DA trigger, while the Stock 2/Lim Pro DA trigger reach is perfect - very similar to my old MP9. Something to consider if you have small hands/short fingers like I do.
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I cannot see anything wrong in the pictures... Maybe just enjoy shooting it, and do not worry until accuracy does decrease, or it's becoming unreliable?
Based on my experience with plastic guns (I am new to Tanfo and metal guns in general), they should run 30,000 to 50,000 easily.
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My LimPro has 2-wing, and Stock 2 has 1-wing. I honestly like the trigger feel on the LimPro better, but it's hard to quantify why. It just feels crispier, or, maybe less stacking on the DA. I agree the difference is very small, but I definitely can tell the difference firing them blindly.
BTW - I have identical polishing and internals on those 2, except the interrupters.
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Whats your Load MilkMyDuds ???126PF is too risky to bring to major matches. I run 130+PF, e.g. 147gr @ 880+ fps out of barrel.
Sluggish feeling has more to do with lube and springs than to the small differences in PFs.
Mj
3.2gr N320 + 147gr Bayou FP + Winchester small pistol primer loaded to 1.138OAL
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The only one FTE I had so far is on my Limited Pro with an S&B brass. The empty case sits in the chamber loosely and I just poke it out easily with finger nail. It looked like the brass ejection ring is all smoothed out and won't latch on the extractor. I run Win, RP and FC brass 99.99% of the times and had 0 problems. This happened on the only range trip where I brought about 50 or so S&B headstamps, and 1 out of that 50 gave me problem.
I'd say try using only Win/RP/FC headstamp and see if the problem goes away.
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126PF is too risky to bring to major matches. I run 130+PF, e.g. 147gr @ 880+ fps out of barrel.
Sluggish feeling has more to do with lube and springs than to the small differences in PFs.
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Which Slide Glide are you using, light or medium?
I am using lite.
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5.2.5.1 These measurements may be taken with the equipment as wornor removed (see App. E2).
It's interesting because many metal guns with a loaded mag will be so heavy that they actually won't be vertical while in holster. As a result, the measurements between worn and removed would differ pretty significantly.
Is it the shooter who decides how he/she wants to measure this distance, or the SO/MD?
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I am running slide glide right now. Really like it so far. No more sluggish slide feels. Also bought some SFL-0 and will compare.
Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
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ok, great. I just ordered a 10# long slide and an 11# full size because I wasn't sure and Wolff is running an 8-10 business day back log. I am hoping to have it by the 23rd so I can go with this "big" IDPA match with my $350 mini unicorn.
Why not Limited Pro? It fits the new IDPA box from IDPA online store.
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Do these dehydrate machines, especially the ones with a heater and fan, heat up your rooms if you run them indoors?
Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
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I recently bought one of each, Stock 2 and Limited Pro.
For me, through the past 3000 rounds I have liked the Limited Pro more and more... Granted that I switched from MP9 Pro 5 inch. Maybe the 5 inch barrel pointing just feels more natural to me.
I know the science behind the design says Stock 2 should give you faster splits, but shooting them side by side on the same drill, I am also getting slightly faster splits with Limited Pro. It is also just as accurate as the Stock 2, at least at 25 yards range.
Analyzing slow motion close up video of me shooting both, it does show the muzzle flip on the Limited Pro is more obvious than the Stock 2. However, my objective feeling is that the Limited Pro tracks better
It is definitely growing on me.I am curious why Limited Pro has not become more popular in Production.
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I just did the safety fitting.
Took me 5 min to file the top 1/4 of the top edge of the nub. Kept testing after each round of filing. Done in 5 min.
I can see the same thing done to the sear, except you do need to take the sear and spring out of the case and put them all back every time you test. I think filing the safety is much less time consuming. I do agree the safeties are more expensive than the 1 piece sear. I bought 2 of those single sided safeties for 30 eruo each.
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Correct.
I used a dremel sanding drum and started on the leading edge of the safety nub. One swipe at a time. Refit and test.
Thank you!
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Some closer examination reveals that this edge, circled in red, is where the safety and sear leg hitting each other preventing the safety from engaging unless half cocked.
Can someone who has fitted the safety please confirm? Thanks.
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Not to be argumentative, but:
I went through the last session with my friend with every intention of modifying the less expensive sear vs. the more expensive safety. Modifying the sear it requires repeated assembly/disassembly of the sear cage, is harder to estimate what/where to fit and is IMHO a nuisance to disassemble and reassemble repeatedly. If you get too aggressive the sear can be ruined, as my friend found out the hard way. I have little doubt that this is doable but I don't see the point.
When I looked at it carefully I saw the leading corner of the safety nub was catching on the leg of the sear, but once engaged, the middle/rear of the safety nub was blocking the sear. I saw effectively no risk, and a a lot less effort in removing the safety, breaking the leading edge (which is not used when the safety is engaged) of the nub on the safety with a small file, re-inserting and testing.
In practice it worked just as I described.
I am running into this issue with both my Stock 2 and Limited Pro after getting the titan hammer.
I'd like to modify the safety itself. Would anyone care to post a picture of where to file on the safety leading edge of the nub?
Thanks.
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Curious to know if I can use aftermarket grip panels in SSP. For examples:
CZ using thin aluminum grip panels, or SSI scale grip panels, which are no more than 2 oz than the original rubber/aluminum factory counter parts.
Thanks.
Surprise!
Portable canopy for rain and sun
in Gear & Accessories
Posted
Does anyone have any recommendations on a portable canopy that can be set up/torn down by a single person?
I'd like to carry one in the trunk of my sedan to/from the range during rainy or scorching days.
Most "portable" ones are 10x10 that I think is way too big for just myself. Or smaller ones that work only as shades without water resistant fabric. Ideally, 6x6x6 with water resistant nylon would be perfect.
Thanks.