Salsantini
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Posts posted by Salsantini
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10 hours ago, elguapo said:
HAHAHAHA!!!!!
It is very comical.
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3 hours ago, pete627 said:
Well ... that's pretty much "it" then ... I would just make sure it is unloaded and give it to your dog.
Hey Rex I have a new chew toy for you!
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On 2/10/2019 at 5:05 PM, Salsantini said:
Didn't think of that! I do Have an H bar in the pistol. The original bar the pistol came with has no Markings. I found an extra bar in my stash Marked S. I will try the S marked one an see how that works.
Have you ever seen a bar unmarked?
Ok, Update on this issue. I have all three types of trigger bars. Unmarked, S, and H. I tried all three and ended with the same result. At the point the striker releases the striker block in not fully depressed and when the striker releases the forward movement of the striker pushes up the striker block. This is what is causing the inconsistent firing. I completely switched out the FSS and trigger with a stock trigger and regular Apex sear and the striker block is fully compressed before the striker releases.
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On 2/10/2019 at 5:19 PM, pete627 said:
Check out this thread!! Note the striker replacement (last post) ...
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/237374-trigger-bar-differences/
I had also replace the striker with a new striker.
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On 1/19/2019 at 7:51 PM, AF2010 said:
I use Slip 2000 EWL on All of my firearms
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I have most of my 1911's without the rail. I don't think I fee any real difference.
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If you are set on tightening up the slide to frame fit I would suggest Jim Milks of Innovative Custom Guns. He did a frame reweld job for me and it came out really well.
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2 hours ago, mpom said:
Along the same process, I have used heavier than standard Glock striker springs in M&Ps with no problems.
Mark
Agree. This will work. I have used the Glock blue extra power striker spring and it works fine.
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24 minutes ago, StealthyBlagga said:
There are couple of different M&P trigger bars sold by S&W - they are marked with an alphabetic character (H or S). They do seem to have slightly different profiles, so you may find one works better than another. They are available from Brownells:
Didn't think of that! I do Have an H bar in the pistol. The original bar the pistol came with has no Markings. I found an extra bar in my stash Marked S. I will try the S marked one an see how that works.
Have you ever seen a bar unmarked?
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On 2/9/2019 at 1:36 PM, pete627 said:
That's crazy ...
Do you think the little spike/bump on the arm (that pushes on the striker block) has been polished or damaged to the point where it has gotten too short ... or ... the tip (on the rear of the arm) that guides it has gotten bent??
Edit: New trigger bars are only $14!!
I replaced the trigger bar with a new one. The tip is straight and I did not polish any material off of this trigger bar. The limiting factor Is the Agency trigger. It is at its most rearward position and the striker block is not fully depressed.
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19 hours ago, mattmann said:
Apex flat faced trigger with internals is 100% for me. Shoots incredible on my m&p pro
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThe Agency kit uses the Apex FSS sear internals with Agency's trigger. I am disappointed this didn't work in my pistol. By far this is the best set up for the M&P pistol.
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I've had an Agency Arms FSS trigger kit in my 5" M&P pro for a while. The trigger kit is amazing. The issue is that it does not always fire. I've played with the adjustment of the trigger loop. In my pistol when the trigger is fully pressed to the rear it won't quite push up the striker block completely. It fires most of the time , but it is not consistent. I've adjusted the loop to the rear most point for the sear to still release. Tried putting the original striker block back in since it engages earlier. Still the same issue. Time to go back to the standard trigger with the Apex sear.
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Not much else. I put a fiber optic site in the front an a 10-8 rear sight.
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Sorry. Should have bee more specific. I took it to the point I no longer felt creep.
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I did this to my M&P Pro. I took some 400 grit sand paper and put it on a flat surface. Then made a few passes of the top of the sear over the sandpaper. Put the sear back and tested it. It took a few time repeating this process to get it to the point I liked. Then I used 2000 grit sandpaper to smooth the sear. Do a little at a time.
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I have three Kimbers. The frame, Slide, and barrels are fine. Had all three rebuilt. Replaced all the MiM parts.
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I've recently been shooting a Walther PPQ 5". good for both IDPA SSP and USPSA Production divisions. The pistol has a very good trigger out of the box and has a comfortable grip.
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Ok. So I reworked the trigger bar guide. I took some 440 then 1500 then 2000 grit sand paper and redid the trigger bar guide. I finished off the polish with a Dremel using a felt tip and Flitz polishing compound. The trigger pull now feels smooth. I the first time around I did not pay much attention to the trigger bar guide.
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3 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
Weird. Polishing my Q5 took 1/4 pound off the pull but more importantly, made it slick and smooth.
Haven’t heard of this one before.
Did you only polish the trigger bar? Or did you polish the trigger bar and the trigger bar guide? I'm thinking it has something to do with the guide.
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53 minutes ago, BritinUSA said:
If it feels rough when the slide is off then there might be some issue with the frame. If it feels rough when the slide is on then check the disconnector, the bar pushes it up as it runs over it.
It is rough with the slide off. It was ok before I polished the parts. When I push the trigger bar down so it no longer touches the trigger bar guide It feels smooth. so I don't think it is the frame. The roughness seems to be when the two parts interact. Before polishing it was ok. After it is rough. I used a felt tip with my Dremel and Flitz to polish. I think I will order replacements. Install them and see if it goes back to the original condition.
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I polished the trigger bar and the trigger bar guide on my PPQ M2. Polished the side of the bar and the top edge. On the Trigger bar guide I polished the bottom. It is actually feels worse. I assembled the pistol correctly and is functions fine. Not quite understanding why the trigger feels more gritty. Any thoughts?
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9 hours ago, StealthyBlagga said:
You can also try bending the trigger bar loop down just a tad so the trigger bar moves back just a little further before releasing the sear. It would let you keep the USB if that is important to you.
Thanks for the suggestion. I have already done this on the pistol. I have the loop bent down so the trigger is as far back as I can get it on the pistol and still release the striker.
Post your SVI pics...
in The Gallery
Posted
Here is my extra SVI