Shmella
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Posts posted by Shmella
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https://aaaoptics.com/?sca_ref=4016375.bjaVYaQDoQ
speaking of the green, if anyone is looking for one they have it in stock again here
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3 hours ago, mveto said:
Mine looks the same, just one big dot. Doesn’t bother me at all, the green is so much brighter than the red it’s much easier for me to see and doesn’t wash out like the red does.
do you have a red version of this same dot? I was imagining the red being just as bright and the brightness is just a product of the newest generation of holosuns.
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Idk if it’s my eyes or what but the 8moa circle and dot combo just looks like a dot to me. I have the green model so not sure if that has anything do to with it or the fact that the dot is SUPER Bright but that’s been my first glance experience so far. I really like it overall. Time will tell.
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49 minutes ago, RangerTrace said:
Atlas is just as good. Fewer options, but a faster lead time.
Disagree. Not of the same caliber. Same price, if not more. But that’s about it.
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I ended up getting the CHWPS plate. Definitely locks the sro in better. It has tabs that lock the plate into the slide and mounting tabs that also lock the sro better in place. Seems to be much more secure than just the two screws.
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1 hour ago, dcalvert said:
Does anyone make and adapter for this gun to the Cmore RTS2? What are the advantages or disadvantages to this set up?
dcalvert
Advantage = you can use an rts2.
disadvantage= you can’t without it. -
If the Axg pro has the rmr pattern holes milled already, what is the need for the plate anyway?
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Since this is alive again, updated answer to the question can you deal directly with h&m for nitride finishing on one gun order? Or do you go through a distributor? I don’t see anywhere on hm site that shows a cost
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I have a short block on order. @zzt seems to have some experience with the short block and seems to have nothing but good recommendations for it. their long standing reputation of great quality guns and parts, I’m surprised more people don’t recommend on here l, or go with the updated line of SC guns especially now that they incorporate cheely grips on their guns.
In my opinion, the SC open gun is by far the best deal I’m the market right now. Not sure what the lead time is in the sc line but for $4900 you get a steel grip open gun with an rts2 that I would imagine runs 110% They’ve been around forever and through the years it’s probably the least re-sold open gun (at least on here for the last 5-8 years) for probably good reason.
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4 hours ago, asierra350 said:
It seems pretty easy to pick apart and complain about the exterior appearance and fitment, I’m waiting to hear about function, reliability, and accuracy before I form my opinion at this price point
Just because companies like atlas charge wayyy too much for an open semi custom gun doesn’t make this price point good for the quality and workmanship shown. Better options are out there.
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A minor load will more than likely be easier to shoot quicker at falling steel. I’ve shot a lot of falling steel matches with minor and a lot of uspsa open with major. a lighter load is easier to shoot steel fast than major. 140pf is a good place to aim. The best load I found a while back testing light loads and different powder / bullet combos was a medium burn rate and a light bullet in the 140pf range. Winchester with Wst was a very nice minor load. But it will take experimenting to see if your open major gun will even run light steel loads. Some guns setup for major won’t run too light of a load. Play around with it if you have the time. I think you’ll find going with a lighter than major load will be beneficial
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On 10/2/2022 at 9:34 AM, Raz22582 said:
Does the this contour the same as the c&h speed feed i the rear of the grip kinda like a funnel or is it blocky and squared off
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I’ve owned a honcho so I feel like I can somewhat chime in with some advice and experience regarding the locking block chatter. (Sold mine a cpl years ago due to financial reasons, loved the gun itself.) if the gun is dirty and you take the slide off just make sure you clean the heck out of the space in the frame that the locking block sits and you won’t have issues. It’s really only an issue If you let stuff get under the locking block when disassembled then reassemble without making sure powder or crud isn’t under the locking block. I shot well over 500 rounds at a time with mine malfunction free without cleaning. When field stripping and reassembling I learned very quickly the need to not let stuff get under the block. It’s really easy to tell if you’re going to have an issue. If the slide stop has resistance going back in when reassembling you left something (I burnt powder kernel or something) under the block. If the slide stop pops in like a typical link barrel Setup you’re pretty much good to go. In my opinion this is what would lead to a block breaking because when stuff gets behind or under the block it causes timing issues (again this is just my opinion based on my experience) also it’s not easy to get stuff under the block without disassembling a dirty gun so it really is a user induced issue if you even can call it that. If you are aware of that though and just make sure you assemble the gun correctly, it’s a non issue. I think the one guy that lubes his locking block every stage just doesn’t understand this simple concept and is way over thinking things and imo is totally unnecessary.
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On 9/12/2022 at 8:50 PM, Kilrb said:
Can't beat Brazos
+++ just go with this. You won’t regret it.
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I never really had a problem with the reset to be honest but again I haven’t had much time on the gun. But the reset does seem more positive. I used the red spring.
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On 5/27/2022 at 5:37 PM, Cuz said:
Last year I got a Carver extended stainless gen5 rod and ISMI springs at 11, 13, and 15 lbs.
Today I ordered Carver’s Tungston uncaptured thick rod and a few different Wolff springs to go with it. I’ll see how I like the extra Weight. I also keep a Jentra captured as a spare.
How’d you like tungsten gr compared to stainless version? I’m not a fan of the 15 on spring and seems to bounce a bit for me when the slide closes. Maybe poor grip but trying to decide if I just go away from the tungsten gr and tune with springs ?
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I don’t think I’m a big enough trigger snob to say this was worth it. Is it better than before? Yes. Is it $250 good? Meh idk, hard to say.
im probably not the best person to comment on this setup. I had almost zero trigger time with the regular timney, but consumerism has quite grasp on me.
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Mine came in this morning and Installed it just now. Gen 5. Definitely improved the take up and over travel but honestly the break didn’t seem to change much. ( maybe I was expecting too much?) Overall an improvement and worth it. I’ll be testing it live tomorrow. I’m Glock illiterate. Would the connector change break length? This is a new 34 gen 5 and the connector is whatever came with it.
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Well way to spend my money guys. Looking forward to it.
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Anyone try one of these yet? I just saw them for the first time in a promo email from Ben Stoeger Pro Shop. Pretty pricey but seems to be the only grip weight option for gen 5 Glock. Figured the carry op purists would have some input on this vs just filling the grip with putty and misc tungsten weights.
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Venom vs atlas is a very easy comparison. Venom is better all around and cheaper. Done.
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Why didn’t I buy 3 of these when I saw this???
finally got around to shooting the first one I bought and wanted to grab 2 more to see the sale ended
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On 7/20/2022 at 1:29 PM, rishii said:
question are you manually turning the scope on and off?
I have a Romero 3max that I turned on when I got it and and never turned off, I let do it shake awake and I’m still on the original battery
and so far so good
i know I just jinxed myself
This. Any dot that has the shake awake feature doesn’t ever really need to be turned off. Buttons aren’t an issue if you barely ever use them.
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6 hours ago, Snoopy47 said:
I went with a side mount. So I didn't change the relative location of the dot.
If you move the mount forward it's going to be leveraged more during recoil. Think the worst place you could put your dot would in the on very front of the slide. The best location I think would be right where the wrist breaks. You want the Dot at the middle of the seesaw. Moving it forward isn't the ideal place for it.
+++ this. @lroytry to tune your ejector and extractor to fix this. Moving the dot forward will increase perceived dot movement. I think this is why people think sv imm open guns are so “flat” the dot is placed pretty far back and perceived dot movement is a little less than other more forward placing mounts.
Powder comparison
in Open Pistols
Posted
I’ve heard swmp and aa7 are the same but apparently swmp 9major with 115gr even at the same charge has more pressure than aa7. I don’t recall what the program is that measures that but maybe someone can confirm?