johnbu
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Posts posted by johnbu
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Ok, after about an hour of slow progress with sandpaper. Got it close. Used the bench grinder with polishing wheel and medium compound.
It was a tight fit, and not done, but .... whew! It's getting there!
Still has some clearance needed around the"flat" where the spring lives.
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Ok, ill try and get the words recreated. but lightning only strikes once....
Gonna edit it on a 'puter
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Dam the river! 30 minutes of pecking on the phone.... gone.
Piss me off.
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Things you need.
Bench vice with soft jaws
sand paper
sharpie pen
Real helpful is a bench grinder with coth polishing wheel and compounds.
I DIY'ed the soft jaws. Just use some plastic like milk jug or ice cream pail, cut to cover the jaws and tape them in place. Mount the barrel in the soft jaws by the "peanut" so that the barrel is not damaged. Pay attention! Then I used a 1" wide machinist sand paper (first 150 grit then 320) and "sawed" back and with it wrapped about 270 degrees. The more surface you cover at once the more uniform the metal removal. Use 12-15 saws, then flip the barrel to the other side and repeat such that you get the entire surface. Use the same number of strokes and the same uniform pressure. Test the barrel in the slide and monitor it's slow progress as it moves in to the slide deeper and deeper.
GO SLOW.
I was very careful to NOT sand to the very end often. Look at the factory barrel, it will have contact area back from the end. As you start to get close, coat the barrel end with sharpie. Install the barrel and wiggle it. The sharpie will rub off where it makes contact. Pic 1
I also measured the OD of the barrel. It started at 0.7305 to 0.7310, The factory barrel was 0.7265 and had some tactile wiggle. A perfect fit barrel will be less wiggle . The pictured numbers are approximate as I had issue measuring and snapping pics as the same time. LOL.
Hard to see, but inserting and wiggling the barrel showed where it was still too big. I did it ... A LOT.
I also measured the slide to get an idea of what size was needed. Measure measure measure. Test Test Test.
Go slow and get it right.
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Ok, my new Patriot Defense bull barrel is in hand! Pic 1
Came nicely packed and looks to be very precisely machined. The "peanut" is sharper than the factory barrel. Pic 2
My CO stock 2 with black ceracoat slide will be the new home for the barrel. Pic 3
Side by side pic 4.
But how's it FIT?? Pic 5. It doesn't.
And that's a GOOD THING! the new is 0.005" larger diameter than the old. It NEEDS to be fit to the slide. The factory barrel had about 0.0025" clearance on the big end. Meaning i could wiggle it side to side that much. Not horrible, but not custom gun tight and accurate.
The chamber end is starting about 3/16" away from the breech face. Pic 6. That distance doesn't matter, i just note it to reference progress. I DO NOT WANT to jump to the breech face fast! I want to "sneak up on it", so it has a perfect fit.
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1 hour ago, Polymer said:
Omg I would worship you forever
Well, get ready.....
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2 hours ago, Polymer said:
You're sure the trigger bar area that contacts sear leg isn't worn/rounded/polished/ground on too much?
Not having seen, handled, tested, inspected or evaluated the gun I'm NOT sure about anything!
Yes, the trigger bar can be over polished or worn to yield the same result. i was responding to his comment that the sear leg looked shorter. If it looks odd.... It is probably odd. Sear is a "danger part" that if damaged or worn or messed with, can allow unintentional discharge. So, my opinion is to replace any suspect sear. Right or wrong, it's just how i go about things.
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No idea on the extension not adding capacity!
I don't play with open, but as i understand it... The 9mm and 38s have slightly different case profiles. The 9mm doesn't feed well from the 38 tube. Also (and more importantly) 38 is longer. The 9mm tubes have a spacer in the back to move the rounds forward so the longer 38 won't fit.
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2 hours ago, Skyshark425 said:
the henning front sight. .180
I did the dawson measurement and it advised a .155 site.
So whats the proper instal on a dawson sight because i switched from them because they were constantly coming loose.
The front dove cut is not always tight with Dawson sights ... Even though the dawson parts are identical in size. To accomodate the loose ones, i put a thin shim under it and then tap them in. Sometimes locktite may work, but it dissolves under attack from solvents.
When you zero, are you rested on sandbags or similar? Odd how your dropping so low. Is the barrel loose when in battery?
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6 hours ago, Fo0 said:
just watched the MemphisMechanic videos
Does anyone make a 170mm magazine or extension
and do I need 9mm or 38 super magazines - caliber is 38 super using 38 super comp
Tanfo (i believe) sells a 170mm mag that works well with 38s and not as well with 9mm. I also think Taylor Freelance makes extensions for the 38s mags to reach 170.
Contact John Durso to get a much better comp to make the gun stupid flat shooting. There is a thread about it with his contact info.
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@Apolo, you want to go over prepping the GT for him?
Short answer, very slight reduction. I'd ensure it was adjusted right and leave it. Have you watched MemphisMechanics 4part video series on tanfo modifications? It's good.
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3 hours ago, SouperMan said:
Hey guys, thanks for the replies!
So I guess I should have clarified that I was already using a 1 piece sear, but I think@johnbu is right, there’s a noticeable different of metal taken off the bottom of the sear leg, and not sure if the previous owner fiddled with that area to improve the single action...
On closer look the sear spring I replaced appears to be some sort of reduced power sear spring, and I’m wondering if my lift issue would be “fixed” if I had a reduced power sear spring oddly enough.
Removing metal there delays sear lift and causes the trigger break to be further back on SA. Some guys want that to fit smaller hands or just preference.
I doubt the lift issue would be impacted by sear spring tension. I would get a new sear if i thought somebody had been mucking about on it. Tanfo sears are only surface hard. A rounded edge could slip off the hammer hooks and "excitement" could follow.
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For a new load i do a bit.
Chrono. three batches made over different days. At least 10 per.
Weigh 15-20 bullets.
I then make the assumption the lightest bullet is fired at the lowest speed. if that worst/worst is 127.5. I'm happy.
New primers get several HUNDRED are fired in DA. I do draw drills so it isn't just noise making. none can fail.
New bullet or profile gets tested as "top round / bottom round". I want to know they feed / extract in the highest and lowest tension.
But my range is 50 steps out the door...
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Loading "full" is 23 or 24. mine with Taylor freelance bases are 24 but not reloadable. you would need to drill a hole in the extension to see if full.
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DG Bullets. 124 work out to 5.5cents each when using discount code TS15 or code AP15. Either gets 15% off.
But ! 124 has a wide ogive and tanfo or CZ may not like them unless loaded short. It's due to barrels cut to CIP standard and not SAAMI.
Acme bullet discount code "54730" gets 5% off. Proceeds go to provide bullets to a non-profit youth shooting team. Kids from grade school thru high school, but under 12 can only shoot 22lr rifle. Team photo attache from the Wi state match.
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16 hours ago, Lastcat said:
John did you mean ".3555 to .3560?
I saw these last night and considered trying a few. Has anyone pushed these 124gr out to 1370 fps for Major? Cheers.
Doh! i must havebeen a cup of coffee short when i wrote it!
You are correct. i measured 0.3565 to 0.3570 as a range. Only 1 of 14 measured were .3570.
Thanks for the catch!
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A couple buddies are enamoured with DG Bullets. They both have discount codes for 15% off, which makes it a smoking deal, so....i got a case of 3500 bullets in 124gr. Picture 1
They came nicely packaged in 7 plastic bags along with a can cozy and an ink pen in a sturdy cardboard box. Picture 2
The "124" came weighing 123.5 +/-0.5 gr. Slightly low, but uniformity was good. Diameter came in at 0.3565" to 0. 3570" .
They dumped right into the Mr Bullet Feeder and feed with zero adjustments.
The 124 gr is a wider ogive profile. Wider shoulders. If you shoot a CZ or Tanfo and the barrel hasn't been throated for Saami spec, you would need to load short to pass plunk test. My tanfo guns have been done and there were no problems at 1.150" , it feeds 24 best at 1.120, so that is where is set them.
The 147gr profile is supposedly pointer and CZ / Tanfo friendly. Not sure, i just tried the 124.
They zero'ed well. I loaded slightly hot at 1108 fps which gives 136 to 137PF. I used a Idpa paper target at 25 yards, shooting from a shooting bench. Last picture shows 30 unpasted holes made by them. Picture 3.
Only shot a few, but so far so good.
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48 minutes ago, Skyshark425 said:
Yeah as far as i can tell the sigh will lower during prolonged periods of shooting. Going loctite more vigorously. thanks!
Just Fyi
It's difficult to understand how it could vibrate in recoil and TGHTEN the screw against spring pressure.
Do you rack by the sight? Or does the holster hit it?
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I also highly recommend opening the sight (don't lose the springs!), and remove the 2 allen screws. Clean and degrease them and the holes, then locktite RED 271 them in place. Every tanfo sight I've played with has either a loose body or loose screws and a body that is about to get loose.
Hit the screws with a hot soldering iron for 30-60 sec and the 271 will be loose.
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2 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:
Hmmm, any reason to suspect that they changed any important dimensions on their barrels?
I doubt it. I've swapped barrels around and things all seem to be close.
I will be getting a barrel in a short bit. so, i don't "know", but i would think just slightly rounding sharp edges and then polishing would be better than filing.
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13 minutes ago, IHAVEGAS said:
It is a booger to undremel things if you change your mind
More gunsmiths drive new trucks from people using dremels than you would think!
Not sure if it was just me (or if i said it!) But, yes. they changed slide width from the script to block roll stamp. and the amount of barrel exposure. and a lot of other things over the years. LOK has pictures of grip changes affecting how their product fits.
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Both have been used to win production nationals.
I have both but use the stock2. My son preferred the lim pro.
Both are equally accurate.
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22 hours ago, PatriotDefense said:
With using hand tools ( dremel, bench top polisher/ grinder, and files ) we’ve seen the 10 min mark a pretty good common timeline ( we highly recommend a mill with DRO for precise fitting). However we do this day in and day out and have a full working knowledge of these guns.
Most "estimates" for time are from a person that has done it ... a lot. I remember the first time I swapped a hammer spring in a Tanfo. It EASILY took an hour. No joke. Just going slow, trying to figure out how to take the parts out, where they heck they went back, did I lose one? etc etc. So, when Joe or anyone says, "10 minutes", that is a time for a person with the tools, knowledge and experience will be expected to take.
I may try my hand at barrel fitting and do a write up on it. Any interest in that?
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Here's my understanding...
There is a "leg" on the sear that is moved by the trigger bar. To get more lift, it needs to make contact sooner and move further. Several avenues available, the most common is to swap in different combinations of parts. Trigger, trigger bar, sear, sear cage to find the "magic" combination.
The more deterministic method is to tig weld more material, shape it to give desired result then harden the metal (without disturbing dimensions).
Yeah.... i swap parts around too!
Tanfo aftermarket barrels ...
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Posted
Video link of the barrel in the slide.
Still not right, but you can see the progress.
Did a bit more before knocking off for the evening.
getting very close now! need to verify locking lugs are fully engaging and tweak clearance a bit.
But, that's a chore for tomorrow.
Right now i did about an hour of fitting including the picture taking. It's fairly straight forward. i may get some additional pictures showing mounting in the vice and sanding, just for clarity.