johnbu
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Posts posted by johnbu
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It's normal. you can minimize it with a STRONGER recoil spring.
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12 hours ago, zombywoof said:
Gen 1 DP is .6 ounces
Gotcha! i was thinking "DPP" !
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Standard "heart shaped hammer".
I prefer the Titan hammer over the Delta. The bolo from patriot defense with their springs, 1 piece sear (xtreme or unica) and polishing will give you a much better trigger.
Follow MemphisMechanic on youtube. He has a 4 part series showing what to do.
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Patriot Defense is doing lightening cuts.
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On 5/19/2019 at 6:18 AM, zombywoof said:
Stock ll
PD palm swell grips
PD guide rod
Gen 1 DP
Aluminum dovetail mount
Flat safety
Magwell opened
Henning extension
44.6 oz
Good luck
I ran that , but polymer cz guiderod and vortex viper and was 44.5oz. your gun must be lighter than mine!
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Actually, minor pf, with polished rails in the frame and slide, you can go down lower. 6 or 7 # may yield a flatter recoil arc.
Film a bill drill of the gun from the side with a background that shows the relative gun motion with each spring.
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@MemphisMechanic is correct. There are some minor differences, but the tension screws on the holster should accommodate them.
Heck, i have to adjust screws on different year large frame stock 2s! -
Super glue...great idea!
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Few here use anything but a single spring. sorry.
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The competition guns (square trigger guard) have the good pin and keeper pin. The round trigger guard guns have the PITA pound in roll pin.
As MemphisMechanic stated, the conversion is possible, but will require specific machining skills. You can buy the two pins from EAA and visit a good full service gunsmith to get it done.I doubt it will be cheap.
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You need the disconnector and it's pin.
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Watch the videos from memphismechanic on YouTube. Remove the sear pack and hammer. Take pictures of them and the trigger.
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EAA has (or had?) a serial number lookup.
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14 hours ago, Dazhi said:
Thanks for the idea. However, I looked closely at the basepad connecting to the tube, it's pretty smooth.
Here is the picture of what happened when the rounds got stuck on the bottom. They got stuck above the basepad. My gut feeling was the follower is too narrow, plus there is a tilt of the follower. There is enough space horizontally inside the mag tube, causing the narrow follower to go sideways along with the rounds when the spring is pushed very hard. That's why it only happens when I load 22 rounds, not 21 or 20.
I will make sure to take some closeup pictures of the stuck situation next time.
What you are showing is what everyone had told you. At 22 or 23, the follower gets below the interface. Smooth the interface and the follower won't tip.
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Depending on what they did, it could be as simple as adding the dissconnector. Or full replacement of hammer, trigger, dissconnector.
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I run taylor freelance and get 23 rounds reliably. Initially,similar result... but slight chamfering the extension interface fixed it.
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Google "case hardening at home"
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Hey, @Apolo can you enlighten folks>?
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13 hours ago, B21 said:
Anyone know the difference between the Unica Custom size LF grips, and the full size LF grips? I think I own every set of grip options minus the Hennings, and I keep going back to the stock wood grips. I'd like something thick, with a bit more texture. I'd hate to drop another $100 bucks on a set of grips that collect dust.
https://patriotdefense.com/unica-tanfoglio-unica-grip-custom-size-lf/
I saw a while ago a person on EBAY selling a 3D printed copy of the wood grips and they were cheap. You could get a set and mold, file/grind to your preference sizrite and shape then coat with carbide grit. Most grips will be thinner than the wood factory grips and if you want thick, that may be your best path.
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3 hours ago, B_RAD said:
From what I understand it's easy to do. I've never done it so I can't comment. I'd guess you'd load up some ammo that's either longer in OAL or has a bullet profile that cuaseses issues. Then you'd ream a little, then plunk, then ream more if needed.
Single action should hit harder.
Federal has the softest primers. So if they get hit at all, they should pop.
The ammo with the harder primers are not having a problem with chambering from what you're saying. So, it seems like maybe it's not a chambering issue.
You have any spent cases that show primer.strikes? Wonder if the FP hole is off center?
Given the gun seems ok and most fails are in SA, the failure "signature" seems to be ammo related. i would measure the primer depth on every round of a box of ammo. My guess is that some will be high to flush. Tanfo's like them 0.005 to 0.008" below flush.
Mark all cases high, flush or near flush. Then fire them ALL in DA, that will show the highest possibility of failure.
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3 hours ago, dhdeal said:
Is the seller "TriggerShims"? I've used them in all of my Ruger Blackhawk's and would recommend them to take most of the play out of the trigger and hammer.
Yes. i didn't want to be all commercially and only had it in the video. So people that were interested could see it and not bug others. the shims for S&W K-L-N frame fit the tanfo.
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2 hours ago, JayTac556 said:
Is this supposed to help with the trigger rocking left or right as it travels rearward prior to breaking. I'm asking because my S3 does rock left and right a descent amount. But I havent had any issues with it. What issues will this help or fix?
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Exactly. The shims just make the trigger go straight back without the sideways motion
my triggers have a rub mark on the side from the way i pull and it should reduce that. Same with the hammers having rotational rub marks.
The "issue" is just making the trigger smoother, more predictable and letting the hammer swing free. I know some guns are VERY wobbly, those maybe should get this. Others it's just making good slightly better.
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4 hours ago, SouperMan said:
I assume that the shins didn’t need additional polishing or what not with like 2000+ grit to get it smooth?
They were already smooth, so just install and oil was all it required.
4 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:John bought a wheelgun and is learning their tricks and gunsmithing ways.
Just remember, Tanfo shooters have won well over a dozen times at Nationals and World Shoot... with no shims involved.
This is hardly necessary. Our retired old friend just enjoys tinkering for tinkering’s sake.
^^he's right. I bought a ruger redhawk. If anyone EVER tells you they are "simpler" than an autoloaders .... they are either delusional or fibbing. There are loads of inter-related multi-action parts. The trigger motion simultaneously unlocks and relocks the cylinder, rotates the cylinder, moves the transfer bar, moves the hammer back and eventually releases it. Smoothing out the trigger action, revo guys add shims to keep them from rubbing. And a light bulb went on.
While some people think the "as delivered" trigger is acceptable and the wobbly side to side motion is all part of the "charm", i just wanted to see if it would help. And for just a couple bucks, it does help.
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32 minutes ago, tdp88 said:
Make sure to get the correct punches and a hypodermic needle for the sear spring, it makes the whole process a lot easier.
I use a small drill bit to catch the sear spring and lift it into the groove. works like a charm and doesn't make people wonder about you! lol.
new Stock II parts and other questions
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Posted
^^^ what he said.
If you really want SAO, the "best" setup that can be had is to get the Evolution Gun Works sear and hammer with trigger of choice. 2 flat ones from Henning, mostly flat xtreme and standard SAO. Bolo is not an option with them.
But, the EGW sear has no provision for the FP block and requires fitting. no where near drop in. Just so you know. but you can (have to actually) adjust the pretravel amount by the sear to trigger bar leg. it and the hammer are thru hard.