johnbu
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Posts posted by johnbu
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I was watching a vid and the competitor was given make ready. He drew, then proceeded to move the entire 12-ish ft width of the shooting area, dry firing using the pistol. Returned, then loaded and ran the stage normally.
I could hear the MR command, but no request to move and dry fire the stage. (It might have been done pre-filming? Not that it matters to my question).
Q: what is it proceedural for leaving the start position (assuming no permission) ? 8.7.1? PS enter as "general" ?
Q: Does he also get one for 8.7.2? It's not a "walk thru"... or is it? (He totally walked thru, dry firing every target at each location with his gun, but after MR)
Thanks
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Update.
I ordered a case of the 125 new profile (i pay full price with the discount code). Ordered this morning, ship notification today. Fast service. The owner said he's busy as ...well, real busy! But working long hours to keep up.
Also...Just saw this update online..
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Just found out this profile is not yet on the web, but you can call...
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31 minutes ago, Hhazen said:
.356 is standard...custom sizing is available upon request
Thanks!
Never knew that.
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On 2/28/2020 at 8:21 AM, mpom said:
WRT DG bullets, how do you select bullet diameter? Does not seem like I am given an option on bullet diameter, tried calling, got voice mail and no response...
Thanks in advance,
Mark
I think they are just .3560. That's what my guns prefer, so i never looked or asked for any other diameter.
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I'm swtiching to a new bullet supplier and did the usual tests and measures to see how they stack up. I thought it might be helpful for newer reloaders to see what is involved in figuring out if a new bullet is promising or not. Not an expert, but this is how I go about it.
I measured the weight of 12 randomly pulled bullets.
125.5
125.5
124.8
125.1
125.8
124.5
125.3
125.1
126.2
125.2
124.8
124.8
Average weight was 125.2 gr
Same bullets , measured the diameter;
Eleven were 0.3560, one was 0.3555.
Average was 0.3559"
I don't like coatings that color my fingers. So these were rolled back and forth in hand for 30 seconds. No green fingers.
I use a bullet feeder. So just dumped in a double handful and let it run. all went in without drama or any adjustments to the system.
Did "Plunk test" in a factory Tanfolio Lim Pro barrel {not reamed}.
Pass plunk MAX OAL was 1.125"
I would recommend a OAL target of 1.120".
Ran about 50 at that OAL.
Set up a target at my normal red dot zero distance of 35 yards.
first 6 shots
Good enough for me!
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Bogies. Any less would start to get slippery when sweaty
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This is a Steel Challenge rule question, which are different than the normal USPSA rules. I hope this is the correct place for this question.
Specifically Steel Challenge rule 5.3.3 states
"5.3.3
“Stand by” This command should be followed by the start signal within 1 to 4 seconds. It is recommended that the start signal be consistent for each string started for a given competitor—a cadence is desirable in Steel Challenge. The interval may change between competitors, however."In the SC endorsement it was stated that a predictable cadence was the goal so the competitors could predict the beep (which is clearly different than usual uspsa mode).
My questions...
If a competitor asks what cadence the RO will be using, what should the RO answer?
... can (should?) the RO announce what the candence will be?
While the RO "may" change cadence between competitors, should they? It would seem unless every competitor gets a new cadence, then some may have an advantage knowing what the prior cadence was.
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9 hours ago, DKnoch said:
The top three pictures you posted didn’t go through. On the last picture, is that a PD palm swell or thin grip? Looks thicker than your Lok grip
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI had some "issues" with posting. Only got this one to go.
Its the thick version. I also have a thin set to play with.
I will say, if you miss your grip on a draw, you ain't gonna just slide the gun around with these bad boys in place.
These are "cost savers", because you won't ever need to buy pro-grip again!
And obviously, these are "in the raw" and not anodized. The ones he will sell will be anodized.
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Joe from PD sent prototypes out to me for a final look.
WOW. These sucker's turned the grippy knob up to eleven.
The thin version INSIDE A ZIPLOCK BAG had more traction than almost any other Tanfo grip I've experienced.
Here's a sneak peek comparing the PD to LOK bogies pattern.
I'm going to do an evaluation over the next few days and will post up about it. Impressions, shooting, fit to the gun and weight.
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Joe can get slides from eaa. Downside is cost. Eaa is very proud of them. And they arent often in stock.
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I have a 2014-ish vintage 40sw match. It has lots of rounds thru it. No issues.
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14 hours ago, EastCoastChris said:
Yes, this is my first Tanfo coming from a Glock 34. The learning curve has been steep to say the least.
I have been testing with factory ammo. 115 RN FMJ OAL ~1.160" and 150gr Syntech FN ~1.109"
The syntech 150 is a great soft shooting load...but it has a "fat shouldered ogive" profile.
Joe reams to SAAMI spec, but (in my experience) the syntech 150 is still too fat.
Always plunk test. And when in doubt, use as pointy a round as possible.
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4 hours ago, robchavous said:
ust adding pointless running to the beginning of a stage doesn't accomplish anything
Great input guys.
While, finding out an idea is "straight up stupid" (and i do admit that) is no fun, I'd rather look stupid for an idea, than for a bad stage. So thanks!
Will put that into the bin where it belongs.
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Ok, I'm designing a stage where the RO stands next to a barrel with the competitor's unloaded gun. The competitor is 25-30 yards away in a start box with a flag.
The idea is, since it's too far for audible signals, the RO will raise an arm to "ask" if the competitor is ready. The competitor will raise the flag to say "yes, I'm ready", the RO will then wait and drop the arm and start the timer. The competitor will run to the barrel, load the gun and commence shooting.
Question.... is that allowable? And acceptable in the rules? 3.2.1 seems to say yes, but ... more opinions are better. Especially on how to equitably do it.
The benefit is the Ro isn't run ragged (lol) and the squad can be close to allow faster pasting.
Thanks
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Lets see...
Lighter than factory...fails
factory ... passes
PD heavier than factory.... hmmm?
I have 25,000 on a PD firing pin with no failures. the gun sets off everything tried with the 15.5 hammer spring and pd return spring. just my experience.
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i would increase the recoil spring, but I don't shoot 10mm, so that is "theoretical". the other springs don't need to be changed, but the hammer spring can "fine tune" the recoil force curve. However, in a DA/SA gun that can cause the DA pull to become extreme. Most don't want that trade off ! (I don't).
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11 hours ago, Truckin_Thumper said:
I am glad y'all had a good encounter.
I sent an email asking to take my money for things I am not sure what I needed.
Nada....nothing....zip.
I will find stuff elsewhere if they cant answer an email in less than 5 months.I would suspect you used a bad email address or the isp had a glitch. They respond quickly.
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I also heard adaptor plate in a dove tail mount was the only option.
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define "hitch"
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On 6/18/2019 at 6:32 PM, Yondering said:
I have a different take on this, coming from about 20 years of trigger jobs on all manner of semi-auto pistols. The fitting method you and MM described work, so please don't take this as saying you guys are wrong, but I've also noticed that most of you who fit the safety this way with a one piece sear and titan hammer also need to use an extended firing pin block. That happens because the titan hammer holds the rear (engagement surface) of the sear a tiny bit higher, dropping both front arms lower, which prevents the safety from engaging (before fitting) but also keeps the right arm from engaging the stock firing pin block.
The fitting method I prefer is to remove material from the bottom side of the large flat section at the rear of the sear. In the picture above, that is the underside of the sear at the right of the pic; this is the surface that has the little casting nub. That does not reduce sear engagment (you'd have to shorten the hammer hooks for that); instead it allows the rear of the sear to drop lower, raising the front arms to work with the stock safety and firing pin block.
I used this method years ago when doing trigger work on CZ and Tanfo pistols, and just a couple weeks ago when fitting the Extreme one piece sear and Titan hammer in my Stock II. On the Stock II, I ended up removing .006" from the bottom edge of the sear flat; the point where the safety engaged correctly was also the right point for the stock firing bin block to function correctly. That .006" material removed did not count the casting nub, just the flat area.
Also just a tip on sear fitting - I found a small roll pin in my hardware stash that was the perfect size to use as a slave pin in my sear. It made the spring installation easy, and that roll pin is a standard size you can find at a hardware store. I'll measure it this evening if anyone is interested.
Huh, learn something new everyday. that method is one I hadn't thought about, probably as I try to stay away from the sear engagement side of things. That is an area where experience and the correct tooling are important. Anyway, Thanks for bringing it up!
One point, the Tanfo sears are only thinly surface hardened. removing the bottom material ... do you think it will let the sear wear faster?
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Www.gunparts.com. they used to have them
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4 hours ago, Localizer said:
Many thanks for the info gents.
I have a DA/SA hammer + disconnect assembly...I guess I know what I’m doing this weekend.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYou need the da trigger too. (But you probably knew that)
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9 hours ago, Polymer said:
Yes, that one
moving from start position after make ready
in USPSA/IPSC Rules
Posted
Thanks for the clarification guys!