Maximis228
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Posts posted by Maximis228
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2 hours ago, APL-G35 said:
Anyone have a list of max case capacity with major powders?
That can vary lot to lot for powder and is also dependent on your specific projectile shape and weight.
Lots of compressed load data is shared on Enos without people realizing its compressed.
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The most common 9 major powders over the last few years.
WAC
HS6
3n37
3n38
AA7
Major Pistol
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59 minutes ago, Joe4d said:
you are leaving out price for bullets,, that was about $100 per k,,, So figuring free brass, $170 to reload ammo I could buy for 180 ?
Not saying not have the means to reload 9mm, but if I can buy loaded ammo for not much of a cost difference I am saving my components for a rainy day or the next shortage or to load ammo thats not available bulk and cheap.8 years ago I was loading 9 minor for at or under $100/K. Not sure where you were buying stuff.
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23 minutes ago, Joe4d said:
guess I am old, My precision delta bullets all came in surplus GI 30 cal metal ammo cans. Think I still have a few,, because as mentioned 9mm hasnt been worth my time to load for a long long time.
I was going to teach my stepson to load 9mm as he was going to a gun show and mentioned he wanted a case of 9mm. This has been about 8 years ago.
Locally lb of powder was $30 and primers were $40.. per k.. Like dang the blazer brass was $89 for 500 rounds.... umm just buy the loaded ammoEven at your quoted pricing, it would have saved you around 25% back then. Also around 8 years ago was another shortage. Political cycles and national tragedies lead to shortages at a moment's notice. Reloading hedges this cyclical issue. IMO it will always be worth it to load 9MM.
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On 2/26/2023 at 11:59 AM, MikeyScuba said:
…..precision delta…. Do these guys not know how to ship???
Ibeji stretch wraps their boxes. PD does not. First ever order of 2 boxes 124. One box is okish (corner broken but intact) the 2nd arrives 3 weeks later repackaged by USPS in KY and only weighs 21lbs!
only good outcome was Canada border agents were bored and spent 35 minutes tossing our truck coming back home from a US match yesterday. The missing projectiles kept us under the $400 24hr tax exemption which they were DETERMINED to get me for since the tossing of the truck found diddly squat. Aholes.
Weird. I've purchased a few hundred thousand from them over the years and never had an issue with their packaging. Both shipping via USPS/Fedex/UPS or LTL on a pallet. I've always received them in 1000 round boxes sealed in plastic bags with the box secured with large stapples. I know they changed up their packaging to take advantage of new logistic pricing in recent years.
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9 Major & Minor is worth reloading. Its all about searching for deals and buying in bulk.
9 Major - 124 JHP - 7.2 WAC - 1.165 OAL - 173 PF
- Brass - Free (Range pick up)
- Primer - $65-$85 / K (Whatever is available)
- Powder - $27.00 / K - $240 for 8 lb jug of Autocomp at Powder Valley (7.2 of WAC)
- Projectile - $88/K shipped (Current bulk pricing for Precision Delta 124 JHP)
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9 Major Price Per Round = $.18-$.20 ($180-$200/K)
- Cheapest 9 Major Shipped right now is $412 Shipped from Black Dot Ammunition.
- 51%-56% Savings for 9 Major.
9 Minor - 115 Plated RN - 4.3 Titegroup - 1.110 OAL - 132 PF
- Brass - Free (Range pick up)
- Primer - $65-$85 / K (Whatever is available)
- Powder - $14.18 / K - $211 for 8 lb jug of Titegroup at Powder Valley (4.3 of WAC)
- Projectile - $79.50/K shipped (Current bulk pricing for Everglades Plated 115 RN)
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9 Minor Price Per Round = $.17-.19 ($168.68 - $188.68 /K)
- Cheapest 9 Minor Shipped right now is $235 Shipped from LAX Ammo (Freedom Munitions).
- 20%-28% Savings for 9 Minor.
These figures are based off the current pricing as of 2/26/23. Im sitting on a lot of components from pre-covid. My true cost currently is closer to $.12/for 9 Major and $.10/for 9 Minor. It pays to buy for the future when you are a competitive shooter. Much like investing... dollar cost averaging is your friend.
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It all depends on your projectile IMO. Ive used many powders over the years, and projectiles are the only variable that makes a difference for cleanliness of the comp.
Coated - Often, and even more so if you have a heavy crimp.
Light Plated - You will get leading, but not as fast as coated.
Heavy Plated / Jacketed - Not very often at all. I rarely clean my comps and I shoot on average 25k-35K/year of 9major. Dental pick is more then enough to take off slight carbon buildup once a year.
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2011 builders are mostly regionally based. I would always opt for someone close to you to make getting the gun back to them easier. +1000 if you can drive to their shop.
If distance doesn't bother you, Don over at Venom Customs hands down would be my go-to builder and has been for over 8 years now.
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On 9/8/2021 at 11:58 AM, ltdmstr said:
I was squadded with Max Klatt at the MI Sectional and he let me check out his Honcho. Told me he was running a 6 lb. spring. And btw, he was high overall for the match. Very nice guy too.
You must have me confused with someone else. I don't own a honcho. All Venom Custom 2011's for me.
You were probably talking to Chris Keen. He shoots a Honcho and beat me by 7 points at the MI Sectional. He killed it that match.
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Yes. The DAA holster just holds onto the trigger guard and has additional support from the body laying against the frame of your gun.
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It all depends on what you want to do with it. Most people never shoot out to 25 yards with a pistol ever. So why zero the pistol there...
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10.5 of 1680 under a 220 Everglades plated RN. Cycles at 850 FPS out of a 10.5 AR. Locks back as well.
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Heat it up... Take it off... Clean the threads and crown... Reapply locktite... Let sit for 24 hours.... shoot.
Long term, get some set screws added to ensure it doesnt move even if the locktite breaks free again.
Red breaks free regularly IMO. I would go with a higher temp green such as 620 or 609.
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Mixing some in? Great.
Entire match? Lame.
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Wow... That is a very lame response.
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Looks like a company set up just to gouge people.
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14 hours ago, AverageJoeShooting said:
Holosun 510c.
I've never rezeroed it. And its never broken. And it used to be on my open shotgun a while ago
Glass popped out within 500 rounds for me.
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Ive yet to find an optic that doesnt break. They all suck.
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28 minutes ago, Mikeski said:
So the optic is over a year old, and like an idiot I completely forgot to loosen the locking screw. So I'll try again tomorrow and see if this makes a change. I also have a backup optic I can mount to rule out the gun.
Everything else is tight on the gun and barrel locks up great.
You can try, but that wont change anything. Just box it up and get it out a day earlier to get it back earlier.
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1 hour ago, Mikeski said:
Ok so I have a RTS2 on my open gun and at the last match it wound up getting out of sight. Took it to the range today and everything is about 5 inches right at 10 yards. Tried adjusting the screws and everything is still 5 inches right. Everything points to the Optic going bad. I would think if it was a gun issue adjusting the dot would correct it. Any thought or am I missing anything.
Box it up and send it in for warranty work.
I just sent in 3 units. 2 of them lost zero and wont re zero similarly to what you are experiencing. The other one had a very dim dot regardless of cleaning and new batteries (Checked with voltage meter for quality).
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I roll brass for people locally. I charge $40-50 per 5 gallon bucket depending on caliber. I have 2 Commercial roll sizers. I feed one with a MA systems feeder and 1 with a hotrodded Dillon.
If you have a group of large volume shooters at your club, you could offer this same service to them. You could also group buy the larger unit and pass it around as needed.
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Aren't case feeders $300 (Now) not $500? 3 years ago it would have been closer to $260-$270.
The cost of a replacement motor shouldn't be too much. Ive burned them out in less than 3 years. You could take it apart and find a comparable motor for under $40.
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Minor doesnt make you more accurate. It allows you to get away with sloppier second sight pictures and a bad grip. The D/C/B crowd is more likely to blast 2 shots off a single sight picture. Minor allows easier recoil, thus possibly better hits. The issue here isn't Major Vs minor but rather the skill set to actually "See what you need to see" instead of blasting without regard to your sight picture.
As you progress into A/M/GM, you cant just slap off 2 rounds without regard for accuracy. The top guys call every single shot, regardless of speed.
Math says Major is better than minor, unless you shoot 99% of points 100% of the time.
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Math says Major is better than minor. This argument has been had thousands of times.
Is it even worth getting into reloading 9mm minor right now?
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted
I swear I spend more time helping other local shooters tinker with their presses than I do even loading ammo for myself nowadays.
Biggest issue is most people as of recent are buying a 1050/1100/Evo and then automate right out of the box. They have no mechanical inclinations, nor do they have any real reloading experience.
They expect "Hit start, machine go burrrrrr". But what they end up getting is"Hit start, f*#k this POS...". Then they run to forums/social to complain until someone spoon feeds them a solution.
Once you understand how your machine functions, there should rarely be much tinkering, unless you have part breakages. I honestly get more questions about 550/650/750s than I do automated presses.