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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

bwikel

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Posts posted by bwikel

  1. On 10/13/2019 at 4:22 PM, MemphisMechanic said:

    Spray the lube onto the bottom of your plastic container in a thin eve coating.

    Dump cases in.

    Install lid.

    Shake.

    Dump into casefeeder.

     

    Keeps it on the OUTSIDE of your cases!

    This should be a best practice. Don't put lube directly on the case use the container to distribute it and it won't end up inside the case. I found using a plastic coffee can with some flat sides works well as the brass won't just slide down the side as I basically tumble it by holding each end and spinning it. 

  2. 22 hours ago, tk4 said:

    Which lower?  Will it run hollow points reliably?

    How much?

    I was running mine in a Spikes SBRed lower. If you aren't trying to utilize an already SBRed lower I would just go with a dedicated  QC10 colt mag lower and be done with it. My mag block would run any ammo I fed it as long as it stayed secured in the magwell. 

  3. I fought with a mag block for over a year with the same issue and it was the Macon Armory design. It would run good for a while then start having issues where the block had moved up in the magwell. The only real fix for this is a dedicated lower or permanently affixing the mag block. I chose a dedicated colt mag lower.   

  4. 16 minutes ago, Grayman1770 said:

    I can't find a guncraft trigger in stock anywhere. Could somebody post a link to something that will work well? Would prefer long. 

     

    Also for the magazine release, are the threads 4-40 or 5-40? 

     

    Thx

    This is the only Para trigger I could find with a brief search. You my have better luck with a SVI trigger and having it fitted. That would give you multiple options on the trigger shoe if you wanted to try something different. 

    https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/932090

     

    I can't help you on the mag release but I assume you are talking about for an extended mag button on a threaded release?

  5. 2 hours ago, Grayman1770 said:

    So I need a para style trigger for upgrade? Are there any other internals that are specific to the para style?

    Guncraft makes some drop in trigger shoes/bow. Other triggers can be fitted and work for example I have a SVI trigger shoe/bow in a para frame. 

  6. 14 hours ago, Sandbagger123 said:

    it seems to need a certain amoumt of clear field for it to work 

    I was told by the manufacturer that the radar needs at least 15 yards clear in front of it to operate properly. I have used mine several times at an indoor range on a lane with others shooting on either side of me, i have yet to have an issue as long as the sensitivity is set accordingly. 

  7. 8 hours ago, highhope said:

    Got failure to extract from Q5sf (changed 13lb reoil spring), both canik and factory mags, how to fix this?...

    13.jpg

    222.jpg

    Have you pulled the slide off and placed an empty case in the extractor hook? You should not be able to shake it loose and if you can you need more extractor tension or a better bite on the case. 

  8. I also have a RCBS Chargemaster 1500. I use it for precision rifle loads and when running test batches of ammo on an XL650. They have a newer version out now, the Chargemaster Lite. It appears to have all the common functions of the 1500 unit with a few less bells and whistles that the average handloader may not need. The CM 1500 has been very accurate for me and there are some mods that can be done to improve the efficiency of throwing charges. I have zero experience with the CM Lite version.

  9. What you are seeing is normal process variation in your COAL like was said there are multiple factors that influence this. The variation you are seeing won't make any significant impact on your chrono results. 

     

    The best way I have found to run test batches on a 650 is to keep the shell plate full and drop the power in the case off the press. I pull the sized, primed and flared case off the press and drop in the powder charge from my RCBS chargemaster. This allows me to keep the shellplate full at all times and just separate the test batches as they drop into the finished cartridge bin. 

  10. 1 hour ago, billthemarine2862 said:

    Just out of curiosity,  why would you want to use a Nitrofin for a TSO when several manufacturers make thumb tests that bolt directly to your frame. 

     

    Bolting a thumb rest to the frame isn't an option for Prod or CO with the current rule set, it would need to be an OEM replacement part (like a slide stop or take down lever).  I am assuming that with the thumb rest it will still have to fit the 1.625 in. depth dimension of the box to be legal. I don't think a pistol with nitrofin will make that. 

  11. 59 minutes ago, SteelCityShooter said:

    Has anyone tried a dry film lube 

    I have tested PTFE (teflon) spray on dry lube. It worked well preventing build up of burnt powder and carbon but I haven't run it over 300 rounds. Im not sure how it would hold up long term with wear and build up.  

  12. 1 minute ago, Startingover said:

    The adj screw at the back is for trigger pull weight.

     

    Yes the pull weight adjustment screw. It will also change the return of the trigger or atleast it did mine. If I tried to run the pull weight really light the reset isn't very positive, increasing the pull weight slightly prevented the issue you are having for me. 

  13. 44 minutes ago, Startingover said:

    I am just about ready to take the Elftmann out of my main gun, and switch it for the CMC in my other gun for a while.

     

    Tired of it not always resetting if I dont get my finger off the trigger in between shots.

     

    Happened 4 or 5 times yesterday.

    Have you tried adjusting it with the adjustment screw at the rear of the trigger?

  14. I'm just running the springco spring kit and polished the contact points on my trigger bar and firing pin stop. It makes for a really smooth 3lb ish trigger. Plenty good for what I need but would like less take up and shorter reset. 

  15. I use mobile 1 synthetic and only use it on the contact points of the bolt. I found the wetter I run my bolt, the quicker it get dirty. I have also tried dry lube on my bolt in the form of PTFE. It works extremely well in keeping the gun running cleaner since there is nothing for the burnt power and carbon to attach to but I have only run it in practice sessions with limited round counts. I did notice when running dry lube that right hand and arm had burnt power and carbon accumulated on them. 

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