BradfromND

I was going to wait before I tried adjusting anything on the sear loop. It drops, just not as much as before. I don't see why it would have to drop completely parallel. I though I heard the RAM didn't work with it, but after watching the video on it yesterday, I don't see why it wouldn't. I will call and order one today.

That makes perfect sense. Thank you

Thanks guys. I radiused the blade a tiny bit but the main problem was the front of the trigger opening. It was not letting the trigger move far enough forward to even allow the blade to be able to snap back. I didn't think the RAM worked with the fss. I believe the guy on the phone even said that when I ordered it. I got the return spring from the competition set to have a lighter trigger. I now have another problem......I believe that I got they're standard sear, not the fss sear. When I pull the trigger, the sear doesn't even get close to parallel to the top of the frame. It barely starts to rotate at all and the over travel built into the trigger is taken up. I will have to call Apex tomorrow. I don't have my slide to be able to function test but I'm almost positive the striker won't be able to fall because the sear hasn't moved enough.

Also, there is another spring in the kit the is not talked about in the install video. They talk about the sear spring, striker block spring and trigger return spring but i have another spring to figure out where it is supposed to go. It looks like the spring for the sear lever for take-down but I don't really see why that one would need to be replaced.

Thanks for the quick response. My pistol is also new....only 20 rounds through it. I test fired it before I sent the slide out to get lightened up. Should I remove from the front or rear of the trigger?

I'm installing an Apex FSS kit in my new Pro9 and I have run into a problem. When I install the new trigger into the frame and put the retaining pin in, the front of the trigger contacts the frame and does not allow enough forward travel for the safety bar to reset. Should I remove material from the front of the trigger or the frame to allow the trigger enough forward travel to allow resetting the safety bar? Has anyone else ever ran into this problem before? Thanks Brad

I'll be picking up my 9pro next week. Next will be sending the slide to dpcustomworks for lightening, fss trigger, magwell, base plates and maybe a kkm barrel. I will probably stipple the grip too. I'll be using it for 3-gun.

Russell Banks at Scout Supply Company in La Grange does nice work.

Nice write up. I've been thinking of doing this to my M2 that I hunt with because my big thumbs get in the way loading it in the field.

Just wanted to say hello. I'm new to 3-gun but have been shooting F-class and high power for a few years. We finally have a range starting 3-gun here in ND so time to add that to my list of addictions.