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MetropolisLake

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Posts posted by MetropolisLake

  1. Some of this is unconventional but it's what I already had. Wondering what else is necessary, and what I might have to borrow in the meantime, because I'm about bought out.

    Rifle:

    16" 410 stainless BCM barrel, 12" Daniel Defense guard, Geisselle SSA trigger, UBR stock, JP comp and buffer spring, Spikes buffer, plenty of mags

    Larue mount

    Burris MTAC

    Pistol:

    FNX-40 with 6 mags, Glock 35 as a backup if I have to borrow gear but I like the FNX better

    trijicon sights

    shotgun:

    FN SLP in stock configuration

    Benelli SBE II that I can build if I have to switch over for some reason

    Belt setup:

    Double Alpha inner/outer belt

    BladeTech WRS holster

    two BladeTech Revolution double mag pistol pouches

    two BladeTech Revolution single rifle mag pouches

    four 4-shot Man Mountain Engineering shotgun caddys

    glasses:

    old school Oakley M-frames with big orange shooting lenses

    Best I can figure I still need:

    low profile ear muffs

    some kind of backpack case or cart

    maybe some kind of pistol sight press

    maybe empty chamber shotgun indicator

    Please let me know if I'm missing anything obvious.

  2. I gave in and ordered an MTAC. We'll see how it goes.

    However, I was a bit disappointed to go to Wal-Mart last night and see a big shiny copy of "the complete guide to 3-gun competitions", mainly because I open it up to the optics section and there was about the fastest shooter out there, Jerry Miculek, running a scope in a 3-gun competition that definitely was not a 1x. If it were all that important, you'd think that one of the fastest shooters in the world would be using one.

    It just makes no sense to me. On mid range targets that you can hit with about anything, you're looking at a split second difference. On long distance targets that are hard to hit, you get a 20 second penalty for a failure to neutralize, plus more time on top of that if you try to shoot at it several times before giving up.

    With this in mind, it makes no sense to me that you wouldn't try to get a setup where you can nail those 300-500 yard shots with ease. Just with a single target you can gain 20 seconds on somebody who can't hit it and only throws a round or two at it to prevent a failure to engage penalty. Even if they can hit it, they're probably going to be shooting at the same target several more times than you. Why is that not considered HUGE?

  3. What's interesting is that my sight picture for the second shot is MUCH more controllable with my FNX-40 than it is with my Glock 35. I could almost do it with my FNX. However the trigger reset is long enough that I don't let go enough and I'll try to squeeze again and it doesn't go off. Yeah I know, newbie mistake. I think with some training I could shoot twice quickly with this gun.

  4. So I've always shot 1911's and got pretty accurate but I shot a new FNX-40 for the first time yesterday. Even at short distances like 7-10 yards I was shooting high and to the right about 2".

    Now I've read about multiple fixes, one being to dry fire all the time to isolate trigger mucles and whatnot, but I can drop the hammer on this thing without it budging, as I can with a 1911. Glocks not so much but this thing doesn't budge.

    I've also heard about people using their entire grip to pull a hard trigger, but this is like a 3 pound trigger on single action mode, and I do this whether I shoot like I always do with mostly gripping it with the strong hand, or relaxing the strong hand and holding it tighter with the weak hand like apparently you're supposed to do.

    I've also heard about it being newbie shooters who fling lead all over the place, but although I'm not the greatest by any means, I did hit a coyote at 50 yards this summer with my 1911, and even these FNX groups are golf ball sized. Total newbies can't do this.

    Also read after the fact maybe to use the tip of your trigger finger more instead of being well onto the pad, but I have not tried this.

    Just looking at the top of it, it almost looks like the sights are off to the right just a little but I don't know if this is enough to do it or not.

    Anyways, any ideas? It's close enough that I'm not worried about it at 7 yards. But I might totally miss a 6" target at 25 yards.

  5. Look at the Weaver 1-3x for a budget 3 gun scope if you want to try one out. I don't think there is a better deal out there for the $$ spent.

    http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Weaver-1-4x24-Kaspa-Tactical-Scope&i=728841&r=view&from=grid

    Gander Mountain has one of these. Very non-distorted compared to the Burris, 1x is like looking through a window. Skeptical since it's cheap and made in China but compared to MTAC it was like looking through an Eotech vs. looking at a funhouse mirror. Apparently others call this "the fish bowl effect". I do not like that. The reticle is nowhere near as bright though. Just seeing it in the store it seems surprisingly nice for the money.

  6. The MTAC would be a good choice.

    I looked at an MTAC the other day. I was disappointed to see that the image got distorted around the edges. The center was clear but as you got to the edge, the image squished up unnaturally. A Chinese made Weaver 1-4 was compared against it, and the Weaver I could not tell I was looking through glass at all other than the reticle when I put it in front of my eye with the other open. The images did not mesh like this with the MTAC.

    Starting to think about the Vortex PST 1-4x24. Only concern other than I can't see it in person is that according to everybody else the reticle is not nearly as bright as the MTAC.

  7. i used to have a Zeiss scope on my AR but decided it would be happier living on my Winchester 70. So now I don't have an AR optic. Was looking at fairly inexpensive scopes last night, mostly 1.25-4 and 1.5-4 models. Quite honestly if I had to use that, I'd rather just have the Nikon M-223 2-8x. The eye box is huge, get your eye anywhere near the right place and it gives you a full sight picture. My thought was to get it then when I can afford (or justify more like, just built a house) something much nicer, I can move this to a 10/22 or something.

    A Leupold 1.5-4 had too much distortion around the edges and the FireDot wasn't big enough to catch quickly. Another 1.25-4 just had a traditional reticle and quite honestly I can pick things up with a 2x just as fast.

    What I haven't seen in person though, is a nice true 1-4x that has a large illuminated reticle like a horseshoe that lets you shoot with both eyes open. So my question is, is something like a Burris MTAC what I really and truly need, or would a Nikon 2-8 work just fine especially since I'd be more comfortable with longer shots?

    I grew up on a fixed 3x scope and still hunt with a 3-9x. I've shot a deer in mid-air as it jumped a fence, 10 yards away. Finding a stationary silhouette target from 25 yards away with a 2x doesn't really concern me much at all, but a split second per target multiplied by several targets may add up. Also am concerned that one of the reviews said the M-223 doesn't have locking turrets and you can knock them off zero easily. That may be a concern when tossing it in barrels, I'm not sure.

  8. Hell, we're talking about two different things. Bad visual on my part. He's not doing anything major that I don't do already. I still don't understand how 70% of your power can come from the weak hand, but in terms of placement, that's essentially what I'm doing. I will study this in detail, probably some intricacies that would be helpful. Thanks.

  9. Grip plays a factor also , 60-70% of your grip should be your weak hand with as much of your weak hand on the grips as possible.

    If this is the concensus, then my grip obviously sucks. I definitely don't do this.

    Upon second thought though... I don't understand this. How is your weak hand supposed to be on the grip at all? The strong hand is on the weak, and the weak wraps over the strong hand. My weak hand doesn't even touch the grip. Thought that was perfectly normal.

  10. This is way old but it's interesting, mainly because this is the first time I've heard anybody act like the FN is superior to the Benelli in terms of reliability. Everybody else has said the exact opposite, including a very popular top gunsmith. Now that this is four years after the fact and the hoopla about the FN has died down, do you guys still have the same opinion?

  11. So, I can't double tap worth a crap. I'm actually pretty accurate even at long distances at least when I'm shooting by myself and there's no pressure, but I still can't double tap. At all. My sight picture is all jacked up after the initial shot and if I pull the trigger again it's just spraying bullets in that general direction. Thinking I could hit a 10" steel with that second shot? Yeah right. This is all on 1911's and .40 caliber pistols so that's part of it, but still, I need to be able to do that. Is the trick to just kill the grip, or what?

  12. Go for it --- A +7 tube fully loaded “might” have a little more noticeable weight out front, but once you fire a couple of rounds it weighs about the same as a +5 (ie; I don’t think you’ll notice it at all after the buzzer goes off). Now that so many matches are letting you load up the tube after the start the +7 and + 9 tubes (or even more) are the big thing.

    I didn't explain this well, sorry. I'm not worried about the weight when full for 3-gun, mostly just the length. I already have an FN with an 8 round tube so I know about how the weight feels. I'm mostly worried about it when largely empty if I go to the local skeet club or hunting. Right now it swings real nice and is super-pointable and I'm afraid of ruining that. Maybe it's a non-issue, and maybe it can be swapped back easily if it is, I'm not sure. 90% or more of the time if I am shooting it, it will be swinging at flying clays at the skeet club so I don't want to ruin that.

  13. Thinking of selling my FN SLP and building a Benelli SBE II that I have. However I measured it last night, and basically the barrel is what I would measure at 25", which I assume should be a 26". If I put a +7 tube on it, the tube will be about 1" past the end of the barrel, close to even if I get an extended choke. Is there anything wrong with this setup? It points real nice right now but I don't know how a +7 tube will affect that.

  14. there is no GOOD reason to not go with a SBE over another Benelli.

    I have a SBE II as well as a FN Herstal SLP. Is it worth dumping the FN and modding out the SBE? FTE's are common in the FN, I can't shoot slugs very well, the barrel has iron sights while I prefer a rib, and the load-2 method is apparently very difficult with FN's without some whittling on it.

  15. I like the Eotech XPS, I had good luck out to 300, did a few matches out to 500, then I got a 5x maginifier that helped ALOT.

    Now I shoot open use a Burris FF3, and 1-4x

    They don't count that as two optics? I thought the tactical optics rules basically made it to where the only way you could get both a 1x and a 4-5x was that you had to have it all in the same scope. I thought an Eotech or aimpoint plus a magnifier was two optics and automatically bumped you up to the open class.

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