G17
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Posts posted by G17
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I have a G35. It has a reduced power firing pin spring, extra power trigger spring, extended striker/firing pin, and glock minus connector. All springs are zev tech. Its about 2.5 or so. The firing pin safety and spring stock.
The only issue I have ever had with this setup- Gun started doubling during a USPSA match. Upon dis-assembly I found the firing pin safety spring had turned sideways not allowing the firing pin safety to return to position therefore allowing the firing pin to flow back and forth. I believe that this error was self induced during reassembly the night before. Stopped, Put it together right. Before then and since then, thousands of rounds problem free.
That's weird. I'v done a few range sessions without the fire pin safety in the gun at all. It's technically one of those parts (like the trigger safety tab) that is not needed to make the gun function. Although, YES it's certainly good to have it obviously but maybe there was another reason you're gun doubled?
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And be careful with the oil from now on. There should be no oil in there. Oil in that area will cause light strikes
I started getting a few light strikes which is why i decided to clean it. I usually clean my gun every 3-4k rounds, but i tend to add a little CLP when it's looking dry. It ends up in the striker channel somehow.
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Ya, i'll order a new one. Good call.
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Welcome, what kind of equipment are you getting started with?
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I was just doing some cleaning on my 17 today and when i pulled the striker assembly out i noticed the channel liner came out with it. Quite a bit of CLP had works it's way into the striker channel which was my main reason for taking it apart to begin with. I'v taken my Glock's apart 100's of times and have never had a channel liner back its way out. Does that mean it's time for a new one? Wasn't really sure how long those things last for. I pushed it back down the channel but it seems to be sliding a bit, not sure if this will affect anything. Gun seems to dry fire fine.
Haven't really kept track of how many rounds are through the gun. If i had to estimate i'd say 8 or 9k. Anyone know how long the channel liner is good for?
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Are you guys talking about cleaning the inside of the comp like inside of the chambers or just the outside? I have a 4 port that i bought used and it's leaded up pretty bad. Wasn't sure the best way to go about cleaning inside there. I might try the brass attachment on my dremel though.
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yeah get rid of the steel and any aluminium cases of course.
The breechlock is a great press but for someone who shoots 250 rounds a week you'll spend a lot of time with it.
Since money is tight forget progressive but get a turret press instead. the lee classic turret is very cheap and gives you 4 stations. it also has on the press priming which works very well and it will run with the lee auto-powder disk measure.
it's great for a noob reloader as you still touch every individual case and you're only loading 1 case at a time so very easy to make sure nothing goes wrong.
how it works is instead of (like a progressive) the case getting moved around from station to station, the case stays still and the tool head rotates instead.
the great thing is you can de-prime and resize on station one, then re-prime at the top of that stroke, then flare and powder drop on station 2, seat the bullet on station 3 and install a factory crimp die on station 4 so you crimp and post size on station 4. seperating out the seat and crimp into 2 stations makes things much easier to set-up and gives you much finer adjustment over crimp.
it is many, many times faster than a single stage. still very safe and almost mistake proof. affordable and will mean you can probably do 300 rounds in an hour easy.
you already have dies. it comes with the priming set-up. all you need to buy is:
classic turret press
powder disk riser (about $10)
pro-auto powder disk measure
factory crimp die (if you don't have one)
powder scale (don't go nuts, there are some good cheap ones available)
calipers to measure OAL (should have this already anyway)
vabratory case tumbler (I reccomend the lyman turbo 1200 for a new reloader, it's cheap and comes with good media)
get a chamber gauge too (I like the EGW one).
plus using a turret press will give you some skills you'll need later for a progressive.
the good news is your breech lock is not wasted. you can use it later for stuff like bullet sizing if you get into casting. or sell it. they are very popular. or use it for rifle stuff.
I just really think 250 rounds a week is way too many to be doing on a single stage. a turret is a great compromise between safety and consistency of single stage, vs speed of progressive.
Hey thank you very much for your reply. I knew a single stage would be slow but i didn't now HOW slow. I have loaded about 400 rounds with my single stage so far. I tried to break it up to space out the time, like recently i was working on a run of 200 that i shot yesterday. I resized/deprimed the first night, primed/flared case mouth, the next night, and it took two nights to weight the charges/seat the bullet/ check oal and tape crimp. Ultimately it feels like i had about 7 hours invested in reloading 200 rounds. Way, way, way too time consuming. I'm getting into reloading because i want to be able to shoot more, but like a bunch of you have said single stage isn't the way to go i have now learned that.
I have a good set of calipers/powder scale and some other tools. I do plan on getting a turret press very shortly. I don't know what it's called but i'm using this RAM press thing to seat primers on my press right now. It seems to work ok i guess. Would i be better off getting a hand primer or using the RAM on the turret press. Or does the turret press have a completely different primer seating operation? I wasn't sure how progressive/turret seat their primers. Which would be the fastest method.
By far the most time consuming process is weighing each individual powder charge out and funneling it into the case. I would imagine a powder measure would be much quicker?
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I'm pretty sure there isn't a rule of thumb because the oal is going to differ for each handgun. I'v been loading at 1.150 for my glock using 124gr xtrme plated rn's and haven't had any issues. Maybe try loading a little longer, like 1.15-1.16? I'm just a beginner and it's just an idea. I'm sure some more experienced people will chime in.
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That looks really nice
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Heavier is better but I run a seattle slug which is 2 oz lighter and like that set up.
interesting...since i already bought some Taylor-freelance basepads i might order one of those Seattle slugs to see how it works for me. however not sure if the slug works ok with the ice magwell insert.i'll see , if not the slug will be used in my other limited glock.
thanks for the heads up.
I don't believe the seattle slug will work with the dawson ice magwell. Check out Zev's magwells, though. They have a medium and large brass insert that goes up into the frame, basically they use a seattle slug to hold their heavy brass magwell on. Just one of the many options they have for weights.
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Hey Kimber, where in Volusia are you? I'm a new reloader as well and things are going great. Just read as much as you can and if you have any problems you can always ask the experts on here. What kind of press is that you have? I live in Daytona Beach, BTW.
I ordered everything i needed from Brownells in one shot, and went to a reloading shop in Orange city for all my components.
Lee Single Stage
Lee 9mm 4 die set
Lyman Digital Scale
Digial Calipers
I have a few other goodies but those are basically the bare essentials. Going with a single stage is a very time consuming procedure. It honestly takes me close to 3 hours to load 100 rounds. It can be done that way, but i'm going to recommend you skip that step and buy a progressive press or at least one of the turret presses.
If you want the most basic way of reloading check out leeprecision.com and take a look at the single stage type stuff. If you don't have hours and hours to load on a single stage look in brian eno's store at possibly the dillon 650. PM me if you have any questions, i'm not expert, but i may be able to help you in some way.
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Just an update- I now have managed to get 2 pounds of Win 231 and a pound of WSF to try out.
Cost was $70 per pound- yes,you read that right.
Did you order it online or find it in town?
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Awesome! I have a pair of dawson adjustables. Hands down my favorite sights out there.
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Did you take a look at dawson's? They have +0 basepads that you can get in 4 different sizes.
http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=8000006D-1388517803
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Holy cow, before watching that video i never would've guessed just by dumping brass into 9mm trays it would actually drop in like that. I'll have to get a bin and try it.
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I would also sort out (recycle/throw away) "Ammoload" 9mm Head stamp. It is very odd brass with a shoulder half way up the inside of the case and a lower case volume.
Yup, noticed like 3 or 4 of those in my bag of 1000 while sorting. I basically went through all the brass and separated them each into their own zip lock bag. The ones i didn't know i looked up to see if they were any good. I chucked the ammoload as well as a few other things.
Do you guys separate each individual head stamp and make a specific run of ammo with each. Or when you are sorting are you mainly just looking for headstamps that you deem unsuitable?
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Yah i just shot off hand yesterday. When i get a chrony i'll definitely try to do it on a bench like you said.
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If i were to shoot limited i would definitely go at least with the 35 and possible look into a 24. you're not going to be at THAT much of a disadvantage shooting the 22, but the longer sight radius of the 35/24 will help.
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I would imagine on a 40 shooting factory it wouldn't be worth it. I can definitely see it making the gun harder to handle but i can't say for sure because i'v never tried it. IMHO don't invest your money into it.
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Same bullets?
Yes sir. I plan on making one more batch of 100 at 6.2 and 6.4 grains. If they're as inaccurate as they were yesterday then i'll just keep it around 5.2-5.4 for some practice rounds and until i get better bullets.
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Hey guys, i just got back from the range and i'm pumped. They worked out great. I think some of the issues may be due to the fact that i didn't really do a good job of crimping the first time. Or it could be because that specific bullet i was using couldn't handle that hot of a round. Honestly i'm not sure what messed my last batch up because i did a number of things different this time.
I started at 4.6 today and they felt like powder puff rounds. I actually had one failure to feed, but after reading someones report i read that was normal to happen in that charge weight range. 4.8 no issues felt ok, 5.0 feeling better. when i got to 5.2 thats when i started noticing the gun was feeling good. At 10 yards every round was going in basically the same spot. 5.4 and 5.6 felt like they had more of an obvious mmmpphhh to them, but i can't say i really noticed a difference in accuracy. Then the last 10 rounds were with 5.8 which i could tell was starting to warm up a bit.
This is awesome as a new reloader to be able to go out and test my loads and get good results, i'm definitely in a good mood!A pic of one of my targets in the post below. The bottom left one is at 20yards, a bit spread out. The other 3 are at 10yards.
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I loaded another 100 today and i feel much more confident about these. I was reading some posts about what people usually measure their crimp to. A lot of the posts said right around .375. After taking some measurements with the calipers i realised that i don't think the bullet seating die was doing an adequate job of crimping. I adjusted the crimp die and for these 100 i used it.
This batch i wanted to try with an oal of 1.150, but i reduced the charge as well because i'm afraid that these bullets are not appropriate for the speeds i was shooting for.
I loaded 10@4.6...10@4.8...20@5.0...20@5.2..10@5.4...20@5.6..and 10@5.8.
I plan on shooting them all into the best groups i can get and recording the group size with my calipers and and seeing how the spectrum of charge weight compares to each other.
I'm leaving for the range now. I will report back with my findings.
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I bought this little pocket scraper tool from Lee. Its just like a little knob and you stick it in the primer pocket and spin. After depriming and sizing it it really necessary to use this before i prime my cases? I prefer not to if possible because it just seems like a big unneeded step, but then again i don't know exactly how clean the primer pocket is supposed to be before you prime.
Glock trigger pull question and problem
in Glock
Posted
4lb striker spring (these are sometimes marketed differently, although it's the lightest one i'v found available)
6lb Trigger spring
Zev Titanium plunger/reduced plunger spring
Jager Striker
Zev Fulcrum trigger bar
Zev V4 connector
I stoned and repolished the striker/trig bar/connector
I guess i must be lucky or something, i'v experimented soo much with the glock internals on many different glocks at one point or another. Never had the gun double or go full auto.