openclassterror
-
Posts
1,219 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by openclassterror
-
-
We are not affiliated with Nordic. I have been in contact with them, and they have decided that the modifications required are not extensive enough to justify making a unique nut. We are manufacturing a nut to be used in conjunction with the Nordic MXT tube allowing a drop-in fit for people who do not want to hack on their shotgun or tube. Should be released next week, either before or after SHOT, depending on when the anodizing is complete. I would recommend buying the Nordic tube and trying it, as about 3 in 10 fit up without mods.
Tom
-
Match primers aren't thinner, they are just more consistent in the amount of priming compound in the cup, and some have a different anvil. If the indent is light, match primers won't help.
-
I use the Warne RAMP mount with the Burris and a Vortex 1-6 Razor HD. The dot fits fine, but the zoom ring on the Razor is so big there isn't room for a zoom lever without machining the mount.
Add note- The RAMP is rigid, but H.E.A.V.Y.!!!! I will be milling a bunch of excess material out of it the next time the scope comes off. As if the Razor isn't heavy enough, the mount is a tank too!
-
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. We are proceeding with the replacement nut project, so soon there will be a drop-in nut that does not require modding the shotgun or the MXT tube. Hopefully ready to ship when we get back from the SHOT show next week.
-
I am sure this is a stupid question, but are you SURE the gas key is tight? I had an experience this week for the first time ever where a gas key with good, heavy staking had loose screws. It was cycling weakly just like you described, and the customer was pulling his hair out. Just for the hell of it, I put an allen wrench on the gas key screws, and both were about 1/2 turn loose UNDER the staking! Seems like these new coated carriers don't hold torque like a parkerized one does. They are almost TOO slick, and some of the companies coating the carriers aren't staking the gas keys at all. I removed the key, loctited, torqued, and re-staked. Problem solved, back to full cycling. Just something to check.
-
I use a 3moa dot, and shoot the offset sight on everything under 50 yards. Zeroed at 25 yards, I hold where I want the bullet to go out to 50, and only compensate for mechanical offset under 10 yards on the tiny clays in the hostage targets. (Thanks for THAT evil target setup, Doug!)
-
Did your extension nut thread on easily? Was it an EXT or MXT tube? I am still trying to figure out how many have the fitment issues. Starting to sound like they have resolved the thread problems, as all the new owners seem to be just screwing the tubes right on. That is a good thing!
Tom
-
Welding unnecessary on Stoeger lifter. One of its strong points.
-
Early Armalites and Colts (prior to M16A1) were 6061. Before they discovered the effects of galvanic corrosion in high humidity jungle environments. Since then, only companies who are too cheap to buy 7075 but are milling from billet (fancy word for bar stock). None of the forges will make them from 6061 unless you special order a run.
-
+1 on what Doug said. The weight doesn't go where it hurts you, and you will spend less time fiddling with your scope.
-
If you buy the Stoeger and the parts, you will have more than $250 left over for shells before you get to what you pay for the Versamax. That's about 1,000 shells. No brainer to me. Practice is where you get good.
-
7075 is harder and heavier, with better corrosion resistance after anodizing. 6061 machines easier and is lighter. Most serious AR companies use 70xx series aluminum for upper and lower, whether forged or machined from bar stock.
-
You will get the most help from the adjustable gas blocks if you have made system mods that require less gas to run. For instance, with a super light carrier/ buffer assembly, it takes less gas to cycle. So, you can throttle the gas back to reduce the impulse of the buffer bottoming out in the buffer tube to keep the rifle tracking better between shots. Keep in mind that in a fixed gas block, the hole size in the barrel is what limits gas flow. With a Syrac installed, the hole size in the barrel has not changed so at wide open, the gun gets no more gas than with the old gas block. It needed about that much gas before, so why would that change? You can only turn it down a bunch if it was way overgassed to start, or you have changed something so it NEEDS less gas.
-
The nominal OD on the end of the gas tube is 0.180 inches. Nominal ID on the gas key hole is 0.182. Assuming both are in spec, there shouldn't be enough room to leak significantly more gas, even if it is touching on one side. The culprit is usually DRAG. If the gas tube is off center going through the delta ring assembly, it often rubs on one side of the bore in the gas key in the carrier. If carried to the extreme, it can push the carrier key sideways far enough to rub on the side of the channel in the upper receiver. It isn't a huge amount of friction, but enough to slow the unlocking at its most critical point. However, due to the recurrence of this same theme on the Syrac gas blocks, I would start looking at that end of the gas system first.
-
Dang, I would give my left........um..... you know - to be able to outrun my inertia gun! Even if I am just speed shooting without aiming it is hard for me to pull the trigger faster than it goes. Kelley also mentioned in one of these threads that his cycles slightly faster than his M2, which is FAST. And btw, not all gas guns ARE fast, the Rem 1100 being a good example. I distinctly remember hitting the point where I was conscious of waiting for the feeling of the carrier releasing forward before triggering the next shot.
-
When you put the gas block back on is it firmly seated against the shoulder?
No, if had done so the holes would have been off by approximately .020. I measured the two holes from the shoulder and from the end of the block and placed the block accordingly.
This seems unusual to me....I've only built a few uppers, but each one the gas block was bumped right up to the shoulder.
I guess it also eliminates the advantages of an adjustable block when it has to be fully open
On a non- free float clamshell type fore end, there is a stamped sheet metal plate slightly cup-shaped to capture the front of the guards. It fits between the gas block and the shoulder on the barrel. Many lo-pro gas block manufacturers assume you are doing away with the cup, and position the port to align without it there. If the block takes into account the thickness of the plate, (but you don't use the plate) the port will be too close to the shoulder. Hence the "leave a gap" theory. However, on a carbine barrel the hole in the barrel is about .062 to .065, and the hole in the gas block is typically .159. So you could be off-center by almost .050 either way from perfect alignment without restricting gas flow. The guard retainer plate is under .030 thick, so you will only have a problem if one or both holes is out of location too. On longer gas systems the port gets bigger in the barrel, so your margin for error shrinks drastically.
Tom
-
I might also mention that from what I have seen locally, the number one killer of 1100s is "new gun envy". Several guys started lusting after whatever they started seeing in the 3GN tv shows, then started reading up on how obsolete their old Remington was/is, then next time they had an FTF in a match, BOOM "see, my 1100 IS a piece of crap! I better go buy a Benelli" (or SLP, or Mossberg 930, or... whatever they wanted an excuse to buy anyhow.) Never mind that they quit cleaning their 1100 as soon as they started jonesing for the latest gun-du-jour. A lot of those supposedly "dead" 1100s just needed a cleanup and maybe a gas ring when the new owner brought it in for us to fix whatever the disillusioned former owner told them was the reason for the fire sale. Often nothing more than carbon in the barrel ports. Are there faster guns? YES. Is reload technique more important than cycle speed? YES. Going to a faster cycling gun won't win you matches if you are still fishing shells out of your pockets one at a time because you have not worked on your reloads. OOPS, ranting!
Tom
-
Glad to help! I am much weaker in my pistol knowledge and I am glad I can pay forward the assistance I have gotten from the guys on the pistol forums. The combined amount of troubleshooting knowledge on this forum is far beyond what a gunsmith could attain in several lifetimes. It is like having a roomful of specialists on hand when you have a problem, and everyone pitches in! Just glad my little bit of knowledge helps now and again
-
Glad this platform is taking off! I just picked up the Shooting Illustrated with Kelley's article in it. Well written, Sir! I am such a believer in this platform I am running mine in open class. I am adapting an Arredondo speedloader funnel to work with it, but with my 13 round tube and a ghost load I start with 15 in the gun. Also in the works is a micro dot mount off the back of the receiver (ala miculek style) to get it back by my eye and down low behind the rib. 8 ports per side on the barrel just beyond the bracket, loading port mods, trigger job, and a big shell stop button round out the mods already done. It is so far the best 3 gun shotgun I have used for anything near the price, and gives up nothing to some costing more than twice as much.
Tom
-
It appears as though the threads on your shotgun are approximately the same width on the groove as the thread. On my shotgun the threads are noticeably wider than the grooves between them (almost twice as wide). Would you say that what I am seeing from your photo is correct? I will try to post a photo of my threads when I get to the shop in the morning. It could be a manufacturing issue on the tube, but the cap that came on the mag tube threaded on easily. My Nordic nut only went on about 2-1/2 turns before it wouldn't turn by hand. Wouldn't even come close to bottoming out like yours. There are definitely some discrepancies here, just trying to figure out if the gun or the nut is what varies. I appreciate the help!
Tom
-
Giarc01- Sorry- correction- Kelley's loading port mods are on page 2 of THIS thread, Jesse Tichauer's loading port mods are on the budget shotgun thread started by gunfighterUK. Jesse's is more file/sandpaper style, Kelley's is machined.
-
Sportsman's warehouse. I pd 450 plus background check last yr. Couldn't get one from any of my distributors, and I have an FFL. If you can't get one at a Cabelas, or Bass Pro, or whatever BIG shops are in your area, watch the gunbroker auctions. For opening up magwell, look for PE Kelley's thread on budget shotguns, he put pics there. I mimicked what he did on my Bridgeport and it works great.
Tom
-
They wear them out. FWIW, the biggest reliability enhancements are slight increase in gas port size, and REPLACE THE INTERCEPTOR LATCH CLIP!!!!! The thick ones from brownell's take the play out of the interceptor that allows the shells to jam up and cause the cuss-and-pick with the pocketknife we have all seen. Other than that, almost any part on them can break (like any gun). On the early style bolt carriers, the retainer plunger for the bolt handle is much less positive, and the big aftermarket bolt handles have a habit of flying off into the weeds after so many ejected shells bounce off. That's always fun in the middle of a match.
The reason they run faster with an 870 carrier is that there is no delay when the carrier locks waiting for the shell to release the carrier button as it pops out of the mag tube. If you have a weak magazine spring, the bolt will try to lift the carrier before the next shell is all the way out of the tube, and you get a spectacular tie-up. Timing becomes critical. If you open the gas port to increase bolt speed, the timing becomes even MORE critical. Not a project for a DIYer. It MUST be properly tuned by someone familiar with the platform. I ran an 1100 until this year, when my carrier broke at the NWMGC. Completely locked up the gun. I went my backup (an inertia gun). I hadn't realized it, but I had actually developed a pause in my gun manipulation while waiting to feel the bolt close so I could shoot again! After adjusting to the feel of the new gun my split times dropped measurably. I still miss my 1100, but even though it runs again now, it is firmly in the backup case. -
BTW, I am glad yours went right together. Nothing to worry about, there have been reports all along that on some guns they screw right on no problem. We are just trying to address the problem children. As I recall, even Mr Kelley's screwed right together. Be glad that you got a setup that worked out of the box!
Tom
Stoeger M3000 Scattergun?
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted · Edited by openclassterror
My company is MOA Precision LLC, we are setting up our website to interface in the Enos vendor area. I will post on the shotgun forum here when they are ready to ship with pricing and pictures. They will ship USPS priority unless other shipment is needed. Thanks to all here for interest in this! We are working on other products for the Stoeger platform as well. Arredondo is providing us with speed loader chutes which we are modifying to work with these shotguns. We also make oversize release buttons, micro-dot mounts that attach between stock and receiver, and we do CNC loading port mods. In addition, we are blueprinting the trigger mechanism so we can rework for improved trigger pull weight and reset. We will be offering package deals as well, with groups of modifications appropriate to each class at a slight discount over the price of doing the mods separately. I will post up a website link when we have the page ready showing the Stoeger mods. I have been very happy with the performance of this shotgun, and we think it is a great value for 3gun competition.
As soon as the adapter nut is complete, we will be working with Nordic to get inventory of their MXT tubes (without their nut) on the shelf here so we can sell the extensions as a complete set with our nut for about the same price. We will stock the most common tube lengths.