MichAda

You said it Red Ryder. I'm learning a ton from other beginners and the old pros too. Really like the old pros though, cause those guys have apparently been consecutively successful with their theories truth tested within 18 to 20 inches from their face.

Newbie here, but I'm learning with rainier 9mm 115 grain fmj (plated) accurate #5 powder. Lee loading manual did not have rainier listed, and rainier site said we could use lead load data, and accurate site did not list rainier. So we came up with a merged load that stayed within the confines of low/high limits of the two closest loads listed in the lee manual (fmj and lead). Just checked the Accurate site, and their load data does now include rainier....yeah. Based on the updated accurate data, we were .1 or .2 over the high side. I could not tell it was too hot but will dial it back to within the accurate provided margin. Everyone I've talked to says to base loads off the powder manufacturers site. From now on I'll look at the powder site to help get an idea of what blets to buy. May change my mind later, but that's where I'm at now.

Glad I saw this post. Ida never imagined this could potentially be a discussion. Then again, I was a biker for years and enjoyed seeing everyone's individual expressions at all the gatherings. Bikers are pretty accepting to that sort of thing.

Oh, total misinterpreted query. Thanks for the clarification. Even better question then. No helpful response, but you got my wheels turning and they need some lube.

Awesome!

I got the DVD for my 550 and thought it was OK. I'm very visual so I think it did help a little. Can't say it was worth the $20, but if I had not used for setup first, I may have a different opinion. Even with the DVD, I still had to stop and reference the manual to answer a couple of questions. The Manual is very good, but I'd feel better paying $10 to $12 for the DVD.

I have wondered the same thing, and I think the question revolves around how much residual flakes (or pellets) from previous measures could effect the next result. I always just use the same case, but flick and tap the case with the side of a screwdriver in an attempt to shake loose any flakes that may be lingering in the case. Tap out flakes into the scale tray and then wipe out the scale tray after emptying. IMO, It depends on how anal you would want to be about it. If I was really interested in getting the most accurate average reading, I would just use a new - clean case each time. But I don't think my scale is sensitive enough to pick up 2, 3, or 4 hitch hiking flakes so I'll just continue to use the same case.

I wish I had bought mine from Brian...Best layout ever. Got mine from Dillon and they were very helpful but I still had plenty of unresolved questions because I'm such a reloading newb, and I wasn't quite sure what some of the questions were exactly. My company gave me a bonus that allowed me to buy a conversion kit, but I had to pay with American Express, which Dillon did not accept. Stumble on Brians site at first just to see if AE was accepted and ended up learning a TON of info. Very impressed.

Hey guys. Just joined the forum and thought I'd post a little blurb. So I'm new to reloading and thought this would be a good forum to start if the forum is anything like the Brian Enos site. I just bought a Dillon 550 from the Dillon site, and I love the thing!!! Only negative was that being a newb, it was not exactly clear which item were required, convenient, or not needed at all. When I stumbled on Brians site, I was sooo relieved to find clear guidance for the newb, like me. every question I had, he was answering. he guided me through the purchase of my first conversion kit, just with the way his site was designed. So now I know where I'm going to buy all my Dillon stuff. I love the Dillon enough that I do feel that I'll be pretty loyal if the prices vs quality stays consistent. and I love the brian enos assisted purchase design enough I don't have to look anywhere else.... I started out with a 9mm load using 'once fired' cases, 115 grain rainier fmj (platted) bullet, accurate powder (#5), and CCI primers. Before I actually got to the point that I could fire a round, I was beginning to think I had 'bit off' more than I can chew. But I knew nothing and had to constantly stop and consult documentation. After I finally fired the first round that I had made!!! OMG!!! Something about that was VERY satisfying!!!! I'm all in....Still dumb as a box of rocks when it comes to loading, so I'll be super slow and careful until I get acclimated, but can't wait to get started with 45 ACP next month or so. Reloading...WOW, its FUN!

I just joined in with the hopes of learning...enjoy!

Interesting problem. thanks for sharing. Glad you resolved. Hope its ok to request some expansion on this particular thread (don't want to hijack it). Total newb here, and I appreciate reading info like 'chamber check'...I forget that is not only a good check method, but is a great 'additional' checking for newbs like me. Thing I wonder about would be if the bulge is causing case stress that could ultimately weaken the case leading to a dangerous situation. Even if it chambers well, wouldn't the 'BULGE' be a point of concern for the life of the case?

I too would have thought a wash would kill the primer. Two days ago, when I punched in a primer, I did not like the 'feel' when it seated, so I pulled the case to inspect. Still did not like it, so I opted to toss it aside until I could speak to someone more knowledgeable than me about the proper way to 'disarm' a live primer to get the case back. So I asked an experienced reloading friend (I'm a newb) and he said you can squirt a little wd40 inside the case to kill the primer. I'm going to try it some time, but I don't know if there are consequences of doing so. I'll also NOT try punching it out with a punch tool, but us some other means.

welcome fellow Alabamian. I too have just joined (about month ago) but no time to post. total newb to reloading, so hope to learn from others and share what little I know.