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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

jkcolo22

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About jkcolo22

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    Joe

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  1. Now that is purttty! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Anyone tried doing their own thumb notch? I'm listening to Enos' audio book at the moment and I think he said he has a thumb notch cut in all of his grips. My mags are not always dropping freely (but drop fine if I press release with my off-hand). I just ordered a posi-lock .190 and STI oversized button, but I'm wondering if that might be the next step.
  3. You might find that is overkill once you swap the msh. A full grip reduction is also outside my personal comfort level, but more power to you! If you screw up your grip or decide you don't want to do it yourself, check out https://www.extremeshooters.com/ . They do a full reduction on all their grips with a double undercut and various stippling (so no grip tape needed).
  4. Well mostly correct. It is actually a housing that holds the mainspring (rather than just a plate). It was pretty easy. The heavy steel also helps balance the gun compared to factory plastic msh.
  5. Correct. This: https://dawsonprecision.com/mainspring-housings-sti-2011-heavy-steel-by-dawson-precision/ in the small grip flat model. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Oh... and by the way.... Did some dry fire practice last night. Gun feels much better/more natural in my hand now and sights come right up. Loving this modification and learned a few things about how my gun works along the way. Highly recommended for anyone with small/small-medium hands.
  7. Oh boy... Well this is embarrassing but if it helps someone else then I guess it's worth it. If you are swapping out your MSH, don't forget to tap out the tiny pin in your old MSH and move the mainspring assembly to your new MSH before installation... 1911 learning curve....
  8. Thank you. Is it possible to get the sear spring in the wrong orientation if I didn't remove it? I only removed the bottom pin that holds the MS/grip safety, the safety, the MSH, the leaf spring, and the grip safety. I think I put the leaf spring back in correctly, but after re-watching a video, I'm not sure I kept the hammer forward when I lined up the hammer strike with the MSH.
  9. For anyone interested in doing this, it was pretty easy. There were just a few spots that needed to be blended. I marked with a felt tip marker and used the diamond file from the Dawson Mag Tuning Kit. Now I have to figure out what I did wrong during reassembly as there is no tension on my hammer (will fall forward, but no tension). I either put something back together wrong or I need to file down the ledges on the MSH that fit into the grip safety (the MSH comes with instructions for this).
  10. I have an STI DVC Limited .40. After moving from an SA XDm 5.25", I've struggled getting the sights to come up quickly on the DVC. I have small-medium sized hands and I'm convinced it's the wider grip profile of the 2011 that I am struggling with. I just ordered a Dawson heavy steel small grip flat MSH from Shooters Connection. I'm hoping this will help. I understand I will need to blend the polymer grip to the new MSH. What should I use to blend the grip? I have a diamond file from the DP Mag Tuning Kit, a small (probably too small) metal/deburring file set, and a Dremel. Also a few larger (probably too large) woodworking and metalworking files. Any pictures or advice is greatly appreciated! Sorry if this has been asked and answered. I searched and couldn't find anything.
  11. I found I had to back off the belling much further than I anticipated. The bullet barely sits on the case, but it works just fine. Lots of trial and error, but in the end I got everything to fit nicely. Let us know if you're successful.
  12. Alright. All problems solved. I backed off the bell even more than I thought was necessary to where it was just barely noticeable. Everything I punch out is fitting into the case gage just fine now. What a learning curve... Thank you everyone for your help.
  13. What brand of seating die are you using? Some brands have two means of adjustment. One being the position of the die in the press, which may also adjusts the crimp. The other is an adjustable stem on top, which specifically adjusts the OAL. On these types of dies you need to adjust the position of the die in the press without a bullet on the die. That way you can determine when the die contacts the top of the casing. Once that is done the seating depth or OAL is adjusted with the stem on top of the die.Mike Mike- this is a very interesting suggestion. I'm using Dillion's dies. I'll have to go read back through the instructions to determine if there is a separate adjustment for OAL. Unless you know off hand? edit: confirmed that with Dillion dies, OAL is adjusted using only the vertical height of the die.
  14. I think I figured out the problem... After using a bullet puller, I noticed the bullets on my reloads were showing a crimp. The no-name brand bullets I picked up seem to be out of spec by .003". This appears to be causing my brass to stress at the base as they are seated. I used the bullet puller on a factory round and confirmed that one of my reloads with the factory bullet fit into the case gauge just fine. Oh well... I guess a few lessons learned here.
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